mfnick

5th Scoob. Back in a Type R! Needs TLC

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I’m back baby!

 

Ever since selling my last one I’ve regretted it, easily best car I could afford to own. But lack of garage meant I just couldn’t keep it. However, now I’m moving and my next house has a garage to keep it in! So all good now.

 

I was going to try and buy my old one back as it was absolutely pristine, unfortunately it’s been crashed since so had to look elsewhere and found this.

 

Good points first:

6 Speed DCCD Gearbox conversion - huge selling point

Engine rebuilt, new bottom end and SCD block with original forged V4 heads. All new gaskets, uprated Rods, bearings etc.

The paintwork is mostly mint. Hardly any stone chips or scrapes or scratches.

Flocked dash

Under 70,000 miles.

 

The bad/To do list:

It needs quite a bit of TLC. The rear arch lips have both bent upwards as though it’s been too low at some point and had wheel rub. Paints come off but luckily not rusted yet. Going to have to sort that ASAP, will treat and protect until I can get in bodyshop.

Front of sill where fixing hole is has surface rust - hopefully only surface anyway.

Check engine light came on a couple of times on way home. Went off after a minute by itself so hoping it’s just a sensor or something. Need to get reader on it.

Has a nardi wheel and the boss isn’t self cancelling and column plastic isn’t straight.

Seals around windows are perishing due to age. 

The oil pressure gauge doesn’t work and there’s no oil temp gauge. 

Newage coil packs fitted - good. But, it’s a bit of a messy install. Just want to tidy it up a bit. 

ADE has done the mapping on a els board. I know very little about them and the ECU. Seemed ok from the research I did. Good and bad as with any mapper but still want to do a bit more research. May be worthwhile getting it mapped again. Will see. 

Aerial plastic surround is all cracked due to age,

Trims on top of both front and rear screens are cracked/persisted due to age. 

Handling felt a bit “wishy washy” especially at the rear so going to get alignment checked and setup.

Not sure if I like the alloys

Brembos needed!

...fair amount. If I knew I was going to move somehwere with a garage I’d have never sold my last on lol. Oh well. 

Will take some extra pictures when I get chance

 

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Way hey - welcome back, project thread 😁

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Cheers mate! Yea will hopefully stick around a bit more often this time, work or some other bs usually stops me posting as much. 

Definitely a bit more of a project than my last one. Updated 1st post with other bits I need to do. 

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Made a start. 

Read the check engine code, it’s come up as number 24. Which is comething to do with idle control system, could be:

ISC valve stick

Open/Short in ISC valve circuit

Any ideas anyone? I’ve read you can clean the idle control valve and replace the gasket which solves some issues but I’ll be honest I’m not sure what I’m looking at. Hope to god it just need cleaning anyway, £450 otherwise for a new one!! 😭 Its version 4 by the way.

 

Ordered 2 new window trims for the screens. Treated the rear arches to prevent any rust and investigating body shops I can take it too. Got a list off a few Facebook people of ones to look at. 

 

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Am I right in thinking the circles part is idle control is it it attached to the throttle body?

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Welcome back to burble n boost nick 😊

Sounds like a good base for a fast classic too 😎

Yeah that's the idle control valve,  it basically let's air into the engine when the throttle butterfly is closed . Get yourself some brake or electrical contact cleaner and a new icv gasket .

Undo the 4 10mm bolts and spray the cleaner into the icv and remove and clean the diaphragm that's in the inlet behind the rubber o ring .

Make sure it's all dry ,refit with new gasket ,do a ecu code reset and see if that fixes it . There's no need to remove the coolant pipes ,you can do it with them still attached to the icv and no coolant will leak out when you remove the icv from the inlet 😉

Heres a Couple of pics of mine removed and of the o ring and diaphragm .if that doesn't sort it I'll dig out the voltage checks for the icv so you can make sure its definitely fubar before replacing it 👍

 

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Welcome back to burble n boost nick
Sounds like a good base for a fast classic too
Yeah that's the idle control valve,  it basically let's air into the engine when the throttle butterfly is closed . Get yourself some brake or electrical contact cleaner and a new icv gasket .
Undo the 4 10mm bolts and spray the cleaner into the icv and remove and clean the diaphragm that's in the inlet behind the rubber o ring .
Make sure it's all dry ,refit with new gasket ,do a ecu code reset and see if that fixes it . There's no need to remove the coolant pipes ,you can do it with them still attached to the icv and no coolant will leak out when you remove the icv from the inlet
Heres a Couple of pics of mine removed and of the o ring and diaphragm .if that doesn't sort it I'll dig out the voltage checks for the icv so you can make sure its definitely fubar before replacing it
 


Cheers mate! Before I saw your post I’d already bought some Carb cleaner from what I’ve seen elsewhere. Will that work too or would you recommend brake cleaner over it?
I’ve got a new gasket kit.
Regarding O ring and diaphragm are these them? And you say these go in the inlet side?
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Carb cleaner will be fine fella , just make sure it's evaporates before you re assemble. 

Yes bud that's the diaphragm and o ring , if you look at the pics it shows where they fit into the inlet . Just make sure the flat side of the diaphragm faces the icv and the chamfer side of the o ring faces the diaphragm . (Like in the pic of them both sitting  on top of the inlet ).

Also when you clean the old icv gasket off the inlet be careful not to drop bits of the old gasket into the inlet manifold,  maybe seeing as you have new o ring and diaphragm,  you could leave the old ones institu while cleaning the gasket face 😉

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Cheers mate, going to give it a go tomorrow.

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Good to see you back in one mate

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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Cheers mate!

 

Well, I’ve got the valve off now cleaning it. Doesn’t look quite as bad as some I’ve seen inside which is worrying, surely the dirtier it is the more chance of this working? Probably been done before too as 1 of the 4 bolts holding the valve to the inlet was missing and another was the incorrect length. This may have meant the gasket wasn’t properly sealed though so fingers crossed this may still work. Got some new correct sized bolts already.

 

Anyway nows the tedious part.

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Think I’ve done best I can now. Gave it a surface dry. Going to leave it to fully dry in boiler cupboard overnight and tomorrow and refix in evening. Should be plenty dry enough by then.

 

Good job I got some new screws for the magnet, they were soft as !Removed! and rounded off when removing the old ones too.

 

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Didn’t work :(

Ordered a 2nd hand one. Hope that does!

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Also I Realised when putting it back together my manifold looks different to this. The holes line up but where I though I was missing a 4th bolt it doesn’t actually have a hole for it on mine?? Is that correct?

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Looks nothing like that

 

EDIT - Never mind, just checked and there’s a slight difference between the V3&4 and the V1&2 manifolds. Mine is meant to be like that, panic over. Seems strange to have a extra bolt hole though in the valve. Unless they just didn’t change the valve at all between the versions

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Mine is a reversed version 1/2 inlet with a v3/v4 icv . I'm fairly sure that my old v3 UK had 4 bolts though 🤔

I've replied to your pm about the ECU reset 😉

 I've got some tech pics on how to voltage check the v1/V2 icv but unsure if they're the same as the v3/v4.  As there's differences in the tps idle switch wiring. 

If you're ok with a multimeter I can dig em out and post em on here if you like ?

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I’ve done a search on different manifolds, looked at ones for sale etc. and all the V4’s I’ve seen are like mine and missing that bolt hole. Still weird though. 

I’m fine with a multimeter (sparky by trade) but I do know the top on the v4 ICV is different and incompatible with the V1&2, yours has the green label mine is yellow, and the design is different. So I’m pretty sure the readings are different too :(. Need to see if I can find the volt check for a V4.

Got the 2nd hand ICV through and mine looks in better condition now it’s all cleaned up, plus it moved freely so I’m thinking it’s not the valve itself. Might just change the magnet top first, see if that clears it. 

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Had a look at a few pics on my phone and yes my old v3 icv had 4 bolt holes but only 3 bolts 👍

Not knowing if the internals are different, from a visual look the only difference between the phase 1 (v1/v2) and a phase 1.5 (v3/v4) is the label colour and the air return to intake pipe take off . I'm definitely running a v3/v4 icv (it's the one of my v3uk) . I used this as the upward intake "take off" made the icv pipework route for my custom inlet manifold eaiser 😉.

Blue inlet was my v3uk and shows 4 holes but 3 bolts . Pic of the voltage checks , ECU pins will be different but voltage at the icv might be the same 

 

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Ah so your resistance should be the same as mine then if you’re running the newer valve. I’ll test it tonight, thanks a lot for that, I couldn’t find any info online at all regarding the values I should be getting at the solenoid.

 

I did find what voltage my TPS should be showing though so I’ll check that too as it gives the same error codes when not set correctly.

 

Thanks mate!

 

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Right, tested my valve, getting 9 ohms on both tests so all good. New 2nd hand one I got through tested at 9.1 and 9.8 ohms so don’t know whether to bother changing it.

I’ve tested the TPS, closed I’m getting 0.49 volts - should be between .45-.55 so that’s spot on. Fully open I get 4.9. Read open it should be between 4.6-4.7v. So a slight discrepancy but would that really give me a CEL? Plus if I change it, won’t it mess up the closed value? I doubt I’ll get the bottom screw undone to alter it too as it’s rusty and they look like the same ones they used on the ICV which I had to use a mole grip to undo - not possible in the space where the TPS is. What do we think? Should I go though the effort of altering the TPS or is the something else I should test first?

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I know there's a difference in voltage direction and wiring between the v1/v2 (4 wire) tps and the v3/v4 (3wire) tps . So can't really help with anymore diagrams, as I only have the v1/V2 and v7 sti service manuals . Plus my Frankenstein set up runs a mixture of v1 and v3 ,with newage coilpacks on a custom loom lol .

Have you checked the icv take off too intake pipework for splits , as this might cause a icv issue .

I'd also check the engine (near starter motor) and engine loom earth (near where the fuel line connects to the inlet fuel hardlines) .Maybe disconnect and clean them to make sure your getting a good strong earth .

If that doesn't work then mark the TPS position ,then adjusting it and see if the voltage correction helps .

 

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I’ve checked the intercooler and ICV pipework for splits, all ok.

 

The screws to the TPS were actually fine and easy to undo, they had a extra washer compared to the ICV ones which must have helped! Plus it’s against plastic not metal. I found a few extra threads saying it should actually be 4.3v open. So I’ve messed with it and managed to get it 0.5v closed and 4.28 open! Well happy with that. As long as 4.3 is correct anyway.

 

I’ve cleaned up the other ICV so going to fit it while I’ve got the intercooler off and access. Hopefully both those changes will sort it.

 

Will check the grounds as well while I’m at it, cheers mate!

 

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Still not fixed. Getting fed up now. Already fallen out of love with this car, would sell it if anybody would buy it with CEL... 

After about 20 mins and warmed up it happens again. Same code. Managed to get it to light more consistently now through. It happens mainly at around 30mph under engine breaking. Once it’s dropped below 20-25mph it goes back off. Speed up and hard brake and no issues/light at all. It just seems I be under engine break at about 30. Anyone any ideas what else it could be? 

Can I test the MAF somehow? I can’t find anywhere online which shows what voltage that should be at. I’ve tested it with ignition on engine off, I’m getting 0.17V, no idea if that’s right or even if I can test it. 

Anyone? 😞 

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Finally!! Found out what it is, took it to Richard Henry’s, turns out my DCCD box is a Hawkeye one not a Blobeye. Which is good.
What this also means though is the neutral position switch on the hawkeyes is such where it operates the complete opposite way round to how every previous box does. Meaning my ECU is seeing the neutral to open the IACV at wrong times, throwing a error code.

Ordered a new 6 speed neutral switch for a 01-04 box and that will sort it. Only problem now is, getting to the ****** thing. Andy at RH says it’s right at the top and there’s no space to reach it without dropping he back if the box, especially in classics where space is even more limited, so quite a big labour job. Will have to get booked in either at SSS now Martin is back or book with Andy in near future.

What I’ve learnt from this experience? Don’t bother trying to fix stuff myself!! Wasted a couple hundred £ on parts and loads of time taking apart and refixing bits of the engine. When all I needed was a £35 part and then it’s something I can’t do anyway. Bah!

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