Miggs

I was going to suggest using a jack to lift it, the plug could be for a diff temp reader, Dogmas forester had one, not seen one on an impreza but it's possible

lol i was gonna do that

welcome to the S.O.C. pal, good to have you here, not so good though are the circumstances you find yourself with, i too think that's a bit of a high price, seems a typical dealer response though, charge the earth for not a lot of money in parts, it's probably all labour costs as the entire engine needs to be stripped down to fix it, a normal inline 4 pot can have the bearings done from below by just removing the sump, as long as theres a garage with experience of taking a subaru engine apart the quote should come back a hellova lot cheaper than main stealer prices

i'd happily take care of it for you and take it to good garages for work to be done for you, the japenese imports are popular over here due to even standard they run more power but most good imports have mods too so lots of money already spent and you get it cheap france is the same, if you put an air filter on the standard car your breaking the law, an air filter, that's bizarre

welcome aboard, a mate of mine had a golf running LPG, he bought it already fitted and said he could smell an eggy smell when he was using it, he tried to use the petrol side of the conversion as much as possible and ended up getting rid within a year, i don't know if that's common or just his bad experience, he also said it was half the price to fill up with gas than petrol but it used twice as much when running it so worked out a marginal difference

i know these look small but if you click on them, then go to the bottom right and click the magnifying glass, you should get a message saying "view original" hit that and you will get them full size

i think the thirsty nature of the turbo means some people are getting rid as they can't justify the fuel, the guy that runs the scooby garage near me is always selling classic turbos, he gets shut of at 2 cars every week and a half, he gets the odd sport in but always scraps them after getting the panels off them or just selling for px prices, the reason theres not many sports about is the boy racers can't afford the turbo but they can have turbo looks for less insurance, they will keep them until they kill them or they can afford the turbo, that's my thoguths Dogma had a sport and was well chuffed with it, if the gearbox hadn't gone he would have kept it quite a lot longer, he got the awd of the turbo, the noise of the scoob and fuel economy to die for, i think most sport owners will be the same, also you'll get more turbos for sale that have engine issues and the owners is trying to sell without anybody realising and it doesn't cost him the earth

i do use them every now and again and have made the same suggestion on other forums but never been used as it's not overly popular with many people here you go, took 2 mins to create and save

it doesn't say where i got it from, best bet would be look at the engine in a classic and compare to the pic, if the indicated parts aren't where the pic shows then not for the classic, i'll try and get a look under my bonnet today

i just thought the explanation of how to read and then the decipher of what your reading were better in the same section so people aren't hunting all over the place for em

bit of a difficult one from my point of view, i don't want to encourage you to go for it and it turn out to be a bad idea, i'll feel guilty for telling you to do it, then again i don't want to see you paying twice as much when you could well have got the same job for less

lovely car, i like the dash and the REAL carbon not vinyl, makes a great difference, what's the law on a car bought already tuned from another country and imported to Italy? just thinking you could get a car from Japan or even here in the UK modified and imported to you

black smoke is usually an indication of burning oil in the system, as Gambit said it depends when and how much, little puff on start or constant or when you floor it on boost?

my mates bug has the blob rear lights and i think bumper and his lights were clear and red see through/clear lens not patterned/opaque, he's just got some red tint spray and coloured the whole lens red, makes a massive difference and looks awesome a hint for painting from a can be it tint spray or spray paint, warm up the surface being painted and as soon as you spray blow it with a hair dryer or heat gun and you should get a gleaming finish

if i was in this position i would fix the turbo get it taxed and mot'd and sell, put the money to one side, sell the sport as is spares or repairs of strip it down for parts then with the money from both get a decent sport if fuel economy is a factor if not then get a turbo, the guy in the garage is talking sense in the fact off boost the 2 are pretty close economy wise, i got the turbo in place of a V6 4x4 golf, fuel economy in the v6 is guzzling all the time as it's always fuelling 6 pots n/a the turbo off boost fuels 4, in reality the car stays off boost for 5/6 mins tops, it's extremely hard to stay off boost plus if you ever jump on the motorway you can't avoid it, i did 140 mile round trip on tuesday night at around 55-60 mph trying to conserve fuel, i did it on £35 of juice, i have also done 30 miles at 70-80 and that was £30 so it makes a difference, thing is the higher speed of the 2 was just me in the car driving normally, the slower was with a mate going there and he had paid for the fuel, then following him back in his new car and keeping to his speed, all factors that make driving styles different

if the guys gonna do a proper job at that price then it does seem a !Removed! good price, BUT is it the old adage of "if it seems to good to be true it usually is" do you know anybody that's used him in the past, the more references you can get for him the better, just for peace of mind, i don't mean to be sceptical but i've seen so many people that have got a cheap job at a garage and it's turned out they haven't had the work done that they have paid for, i try and do everything myself to A. keep costs down and B. i know it's been done properly with the correct parts, i'm lucky in the fact i have the time, space and all the required tools so i can see your dilema

i haven't looked at my car but looked on the net and found this, now you've said that i'm wondering if its the newage diagram i've found

let me know what happens at the mot and if your wanting it i'll dig it all out and get it boxed and priced for courier

1 Engine Speed Signal Circuit 11 Crankshaft Position Sensor 12 Starter Signal 13 Camshaft Position Sensor 14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX) 18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX) 19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX) 21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 22 Knock Sensor 23 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit 24 Idle Control System Malfunction 24 ISC Valve (Stick) 24 Open/Short in ISC Valve Circuit 26 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 27 ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit 28 Knock Sensor #2 29 Crankshaft Position Sensor 2 31 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit 32 A/F Sensor #1 System 32 A/F Sensor #2 System 32 Oxygen Sensor 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor 35 CPC System 36 Turbine Speed Signal 37 Rear O2 Sensor Circuit / A/F Sensor Circuit Malfunction 38 Torque Control Signal #1 38 Torque Control Signal #2 38 Torque Control Signal System 38 Torque Permission Signal 39 Traction Control System 41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control 42 Idle Switch 43 Accelerator Pedal Switch 44 Turbocharging Pressure Control Signal 45 Pressure Sensor 46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit 47 Fuel Injector 48 Lean Burn System 49 CO Resistor 51 Neutral Position Switch 52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy) 53 Antenna 53 Anti-Quick Operation Mode 53 Communication Error (Time Over) 53 EGI Control Module EEPROM 53 IMM Circuit Failure (Except Antenna Circuit) 53 IMM Control Module EEPROM 53 Key Communication Failure 53 Reference Code Incompatibility 53 Use of Unregistered Key 54 Air Intake System 55 EGR Valve Lift Sensor 56 EGR System 57 Canister Control System 58 Air Control System 61 Air Suction Control Solenoid Valve 62 Exhaust Manifold Valve Negative Pressure Control Solenoid 64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 1 64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 2 65 Differential Pressure Sensor 66 Twin Turbocharger System(H) 66 Twin Turbocharger System(S) 66 Twin Turbocharger System(T) 66 Two Stage Twin Turbocharger System 67 Exhaust Manifold Valve Positive Pressure Control Solenoid 68 Turbocharging Pressure Control Output Signal #2 71 Shift Solenoid Valve 72 Shift Solenoid #2 Circuit 73 Low Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit 74 Brake Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit Malfunction 75 Line Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit 76 Brake Clutch Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit Malfunction 77 Lock-Up Duty Solenoid Circuit 78 Tiptronic Solenoid System 79 Transfer Clutch Duty Solenoid Circuit 81 Torque Up Control Valve 85 Charger System Circuit Malfunction 86 CAN (Communication System) 87 Variable Induction Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction 88 Fuel Pump Circuit Malfunction 89 VVT Systems (L) 89 VVT Systems ® 91 TCS Relief Valve 92 Electrical Generation Control Signal Circuit Malfunction 93 Vehicle Speed Sensor #1 Circuit 94 Lateral G Sensor Signal Circuit Malfunction

firstly check the breather hoses they can get blocked somtimes with rust where they meet the metal pipes its really only for fuel vapour but check the lines to it one might be torn or ripped secondly I'd check the wiring to the actual solenoid itself, they are prone to failing, some people disconnect them so just check it's all connected

i did look in certain parts but couldn't find them, maybe a dedicated technical info section with one for links and one for anybody that writes a big post on something

you would also need a new cam belt kit which has the idlers and tensioners and stuff, using the old one is possible but not advise, the cheap quote might just be using the old parts and ONLY doing the head gasket, theres only 2 x 14mm nuts/bolts holding the engine to the mounts and then the rest of the nuts and bolts theres literally very few sizes needed for tools wise, a halfords pro set is a good bit of kit for the money though and i'd be surprised if you ever needed another tool if you had it, also the heads should be skimmed to save putting them on to find they have warped, again it is possible to not need doing but for the sake of an extra day or so and a few more quid it'll save money in the long run if it were me doing it i'd find another engine that can be proven mileage, servicing and cam belt kit and fit that, quicker and easier and i think will be cheaper

welcome to the club Luca, good to have you on board

make sure you get used to the pads before you start driving hard, i can't remember if it was the red or yellow pads from EBC that don't work that well until they are warmed up, they work don't get me wrong but they really come into their own when warm

i've had a few gearboxes blow on me over the years and the first one that started leaking gave the smell of burning rubber when the gear oil gets hot, as said it's odd for a belt to put a light up, any items with fluid will usually have sensors so that could bring the light up if theres a loss in pressure or fluid, again as said i'd try and get it scanned with a code reader if it's got the obd 2 port or under the dash with the black plugs using the flashing check engine light for code reading as per here