Miggs

For vehicles with new or replacement number plates fitted from 1 September 2001, “3-line” number plates are no longer permitted (except where the vehicle was first registered before 1 January 1973). In addition, the characters on number plates purchased from 1 September 2001, will need to meet the following specifications. Character height 79mm Character width (except the figure 1 or letter I) 50mm Character stroke 14mm Space between characters 11mm Space between groups 33mm Top, bottom and side margins (minimum) 11mm Vertical space between groups 19mm Number plates fitted before 1 September 2001 must display characters that meet the dimensions shown in one of the two groups below. Group 1 Group 2 ( number plates ( traditional fitted before number plates 1 September 2001) for vehicles made before 1 January 1973) Character height 89mm 79mm Character width (except the figure 1 or letter I) 64mm 57mm Character stroke 16mm 14mm Space between characters 13mm 11mm Space between groups 38mm 33mm Side margins (minimum) 13mm 11mm Top and bottom margins (minimum) 13mm 11mm Vertical space between groups 19mm 19mm

the mx5.com part is not allowed, only the British standard mark and the place it was made are allowed as extra typing on the plate, you can have the euro band on the left or GB but nothing else is allowed there and the letters on the bottom plate are bigger than the ones on the top plate so i'm guessing they breached the rules

welcome aboard pal, i must admit if i could afford the insurance on an R34 skyline GTR or the car itself i'd most definitely have one

welcome aboard pal, look forward to seeing some pics and i'm sure you will be more than happy with the car

i have the bug eye 4 pots on mine with drilled and grooved discs, make sure if you get drilled discs you get them with chamfered holes as this prevents the chance of cracking them, the best and likely cheapest way to improve the brake is a flax stopper

poor boys black hole polish is the best stuff i've found for a black car so far this was using black hole by hand

prop shaft and drive shafts are all the same non turbo and turbo, the rear diff engine and gearbox are different, the rear brakes are drums on a sport not discs but the fronts are usually the same, exhaust from the cat back is thinner on the sport but is the same fit and most of the wiring for the engine electrics is different, everything else will swap over, worth getting for future spares at that price, a couple of bumpers and the glass and boot would probably cost you what your getting the car for tbf

i forgot all about this thread, looks like it's going to be going on for ever lol

Regional county/Borough/District: Preston, Lancashire is my home address i have family that i visit in Tameside (Ashton and Denton) as well as Hyde and Hattersley) Car Model: UK Turbo 2000 Version 3 P reg wagon (GF8) Any Mods: 4 pot front breaks with drilled and grooved discs WR1 alloy's 17" in white full stainless system with de cat and no other boxes bar the back box manual boost controller forge dump valve pipercross foam cone filter mini scoop on drivers side of the bonnet type R front splitter clear headlights and fog lights as per version 6 huge JL bass tube in the boot with bluetooth sony head unit up front, vibe mids in the front doors led lights in the interior lamps led sidelights twin air horns (not musical) tinted rear windows a pair of bollox hanging from the rear towing eye parts to be fitted orange side lights in the garage waiting to go on hid headlights and fog lights 2 pot rear brakes and drilled and grooved discs twin gauge pillar pod red caliper paint for all calipers Picture:

i like it, as a whole i mean not just the skirts, looks nice and fresh

that's a lovely looking car, the back lights would bug me as they aren't symmetrical, i would have to get the left hand drive version of the right hand light and fit a red led for light bulb, that's just me though i think as for cleaning, i've had a dark blue almost black car before and as i'm spitting distance from the motorway it takes minutes to get it dirty again, i found the best remedy to give me a day or two was as mentioned some anti static cloths or spray so the dust isn't attracted to the car, i have used chemical guys speed wipe in the past which i found is a great product, wash, polish and wax as per normal then use the speed wipe for a quick coat of anti static on top, if you use an anti static noodle mitt in between cleans when it's just been sat this will aid you in keeping it shiny for when you do decide to go out

this is the one i have on mine click not the loudest according to their scale but mine can be heard quite clearly over the exhaust at 100mph, the exhaust is straight through pipe with only a back box to silence the noise, i get a few flames and plenty of pops and bangs with it too, i don't know if the extra boost i run causes more of a noise but it's definitely noticeable lol

i've travelled over 200 miles on a few occasions to buy cars, the best ones are always worth travelling to see, i'm always up front with the seller too and tell them they need to be upfront with me as i'll be getting up early and travelling a great distance and i'm not in a good mood at the best of times, plus i'm a big fella and if they have lied and i find out i'll be likely to give them a slap when i get there

with regards to the second rad fan, 2 fans are fitted to the air con models, one fan to non air con, i was told not to fit a second one to my non air con rad as it could run too cool and cause it's own problems

even if you fix it it's worth mapping it out so there are no future issues with it, they are a sensitive bit of kit so prone to breaking on many a car

sounds just like the original VW campers then lol

i've just enlarged the pic and think i can see one very small mark where it curves at the front, otherwise looks spot on, i wouldn't be too worried about stone chips, my front splitter is turning white it's that covered in em and that's one hellova spot on match to the car too, normally with dark colours you get a noticeable difference in shade due to sun bleaching over the years, was there nothing else you could have salvaged from it, i'd have been tempted to get wings and doors so you have spares if ever they are needed, then again i suppose that's down to funds and space

oh and if you have an after market filter make sure it's not over oiled, a light dusting of oil is usually enough, too much and it sticks to the maf wire and causes issues

you could try and find a second hand one cheaper but the problems with that are you can't guarantee it'll be ok and being a newer car there won't be many about unless it's a high end breakers, as such it'll warrant a high end price another option is get it mapped to run mafless

welcome to the forum pal, and thanks to them pics i just had a little s*x wee :(

err Gambit, if you win the lotto would it not be easier to just give him the cash for his business than buying his car off him temporarily? shame it has to go Jay but good luck with the sale

very nice, shiny too, why was it in a breakers yard, looks like its in !Removed! good nick

welcome to the club guys and gals, Dott, i too would go for the entire bonnet option and swap them over, much much easier

i like the Forge dump valve, decent sound and a well built bit of kit, another good one is the HKS Super SQV4

this is the genuine system for a 95 wrx