Miggs

my mates bug has the blob rear lights and i think bumper and his lights were clear and red see through/clear lens not patterned/opaque, he's just got some red tint spray and coloured the whole lens red, makes a massive difference and looks awesome a hint for painting from a can be it tint spray or spray paint, warm up the surface being painted and as soon as you spray blow it with a hair dryer or heat gun and you should get a gleaming finish

if i was in this position i would fix the turbo get it taxed and mot'd and sell, put the money to one side, sell the sport as is spares or repairs of strip it down for parts then with the money from both get a decent sport if fuel economy is a factor if not then get a turbo, the guy in the garage is talking sense in the fact off boost the 2 are pretty close economy wise, i got the turbo in place of a V6 4x4 golf, fuel economy in the v6 is guzzling all the time as it's always fuelling 6 pots n/a the turbo off boost fuels 4, in reality the car stays off boost for 5/6 mins tops, it's extremely hard to stay off boost plus if you ever jump on the motorway you can't avoid it, i did 140 mile round trip on tuesday night at around 55-60 mph trying to conserve fuel, i did it on £35 of juice, i have also done 30 miles at 70-80 and that was £30 so it makes a difference, thing is the higher speed of the 2 was just me in the car driving normally, the slower was with a mate going there and he had paid for the fuel, then following him back in his new car and keeping to his speed, all factors that make driving styles different

if the guys gonna do a proper job at that price then it does seem a !Removed! good price, BUT is it the old adage of "if it seems to good to be true it usually is" do you know anybody that's used him in the past, the more references you can get for him the better, just for peace of mind, i don't mean to be sceptical but i've seen so many people that have got a cheap job at a garage and it's turned out they haven't had the work done that they have paid for, i try and do everything myself to A. keep costs down and B. i know it's been done properly with the correct parts, i'm lucky in the fact i have the time, space and all the required tools so i can see your dilema

i haven't looked at my car but looked on the net and found this, now you've said that i'm wondering if its the newage diagram i've found

let me know what happens at the mot and if your wanting it i'll dig it all out and get it boxed and priced for courier

1 Engine Speed Signal Circuit 11 Crankshaft Position Sensor 12 Starter Signal 13 Camshaft Position Sensor 14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX) 18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX) 19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX) 21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 22 Knock Sensor 23 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit 24 Idle Control System Malfunction 24 ISC Valve (Stick) 24 Open/Short in ISC Valve Circuit 26 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 27 ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit 28 Knock Sensor #2 29 Crankshaft Position Sensor 2 31 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit 32 A/F Sensor #1 System 32 A/F Sensor #2 System 32 Oxygen Sensor 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor 35 CPC System 36 Turbine Speed Signal 37 Rear O2 Sensor Circuit / A/F Sensor Circuit Malfunction 38 Torque Control Signal #1 38 Torque Control Signal #2 38 Torque Control Signal System 38 Torque Permission Signal 39 Traction Control System 41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control 42 Idle Switch 43 Accelerator Pedal Switch 44 Turbocharging Pressure Control Signal 45 Pressure Sensor 46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit 47 Fuel Injector 48 Lean Burn System 49 CO Resistor 51 Neutral Position Switch 52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy) 53 Antenna 53 Anti-Quick Operation Mode 53 Communication Error (Time Over) 53 EGI Control Module EEPROM 53 IMM Circuit Failure (Except Antenna Circuit) 53 IMM Control Module EEPROM 53 Key Communication Failure 53 Reference Code Incompatibility 53 Use of Unregistered Key 54 Air Intake System 55 EGR Valve Lift Sensor 56 EGR System 57 Canister Control System 58 Air Control System 61 Air Suction Control Solenoid Valve 62 Exhaust Manifold Valve Negative Pressure Control Solenoid 64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 1 64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 2 65 Differential Pressure Sensor 66 Twin Turbocharger System(H) 66 Twin Turbocharger System(S) 66 Twin Turbocharger System(T) 66 Two Stage Twin Turbocharger System 67 Exhaust Manifold Valve Positive Pressure Control Solenoid 68 Turbocharging Pressure Control Output Signal #2 71 Shift Solenoid Valve 72 Shift Solenoid #2 Circuit 73 Low Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit 74 Brake Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit Malfunction 75 Line Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit 76 Brake Clutch Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit Malfunction 77 Lock-Up Duty Solenoid Circuit 78 Tiptronic Solenoid System 79 Transfer Clutch Duty Solenoid Circuit 81 Torque Up Control Valve 85 Charger System Circuit Malfunction 86 CAN (Communication System) 87 Variable Induction Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction 88 Fuel Pump Circuit Malfunction 89 VVT Systems (L) 89 VVT Systems ® 91 TCS Relief Valve 92 Electrical Generation Control Signal Circuit Malfunction 93 Vehicle Speed Sensor #1 Circuit 94 Lateral G Sensor Signal Circuit Malfunction

firstly check the breather hoses they can get blocked somtimes with rust where they meet the metal pipes its really only for fuel vapour but check the lines to it one might be torn or ripped secondly I'd check the wiring to the actual solenoid itself, they are prone to failing, some people disconnect them so just check it's all connected

i did look in certain parts but couldn't find them, maybe a dedicated technical info section with one for links and one for anybody that writes a big post on something

you would also need a new cam belt kit which has the idlers and tensioners and stuff, using the old one is possible but not advise, the cheap quote might just be using the old parts and ONLY doing the head gasket, theres only 2 x 14mm nuts/bolts holding the engine to the mounts and then the rest of the nuts and bolts theres literally very few sizes needed for tools wise, a halfords pro set is a good bit of kit for the money though and i'd be surprised if you ever needed another tool if you had it, also the heads should be skimmed to save putting them on to find they have warped, again it is possible to not need doing but for the sake of an extra day or so and a few more quid it'll save money in the long run if it were me doing it i'd find another engine that can be proven mileage, servicing and cam belt kit and fit that, quicker and easier and i think will be cheaper

welcome to the club Luca, good to have you on board

make sure you get used to the pads before you start driving hard, i can't remember if it was the red or yellow pads from EBC that don't work that well until they are warmed up, they work don't get me wrong but they really come into their own when warm

i've had a few gearboxes blow on me over the years and the first one that started leaking gave the smell of burning rubber when the gear oil gets hot, as said it's odd for a belt to put a light up, any items with fluid will usually have sensors so that could bring the light up if theres a loss in pressure or fluid, again as said i'd try and get it scanned with a code reader if it's got the obd 2 port or under the dash with the black plugs using the flashing check engine light for code reading as per here

vw wheels and subie wheels share the same 5x100 bolt patterns, the vw wheels centre bore is larger than the subie so with spigot rings you could put vag on subie but not vice versa, off set wise, my speedlines were et55 and sunk in quite far in the arches, the silver ones i had on were 35 and were right on the edge in line with the arches but under hard cornering they were catching on the arch, the white WR1 wheels i have on now are et45 and are spot on, not stuck out a million miles but not sunk in looking lost either i've always used this site for wheel fitment info

the sti is rated at 44Nm so i think your kind of in the middle of the 2 :D

i have american history x in my collection, was going to use that as one of mine, bugger, not sure on this new one though, can't picture that from anything i've seen

not sure myself but the classics look the same but have a very subtle difference, on a saloon the top black plastic bit goes up at an angle the wagon ones don't, not many people advertise for the individual cars so i'm guessing not many people realise it, i'd just check it's not the same scenario for the bugs

my mates running 2 maps on his and has fitted a second rear window demister that switches the maps, ones to run off normal V Power and the other to run ethanol, cams also supplies that in massive amounts for peanuts so if you can source the fuel it's cheaper to run better fuel

on the earlier fre facelift classics theres a way to do a diagnostics check as well as wiping the error codes stored heres how to check the faults click and heres a list of what the codes are click to reset the ecu the easiest was is to disconnect the battery for an hour, this will erase any old codes in there, best thing to do is wipe the codes first, after you have put battery back on drive round the block then check for fault codes, this way you know it's going to be fresh faults rather than an old one thats been fixed and not cleared, if you do get a fault and fix it make sure you clear the codes otherwise it may still show as an error despite being fixed

awesome cars in the snow, great for taking it easy or for giving it a boot full and having fun clicky for the best subie overtake i've ever seen

this is what i have in the garage, not sure what i did with the bearing to be honest, if i can find it i'll include it but can't promise owt just to be clear, that pic is not the exact one i have it's just one that looks just like the one i have with the red plate, have seen various other colours but the one in my garage is the red one, price wise they range from £90 to nearly 2k, if we say £20 plus P&P?

tis a pita just for the little differences you get, id do it if i was doing other expensive stuff to the car but i think i'll be getting rid of this at some point so i don't want to go overboard spending on it for someone else to enjoy the rewards

that's what the clutch is for, it came from a sport but is no good to me as i have the turbo

i said i wasn't modifying the subie when i got it at christmas last year, i said i was going to paint the gold wheels black and that's it, i am now on my 3rd set of rims and have upgraded the 2 pot brakes for the 4 pots and fitted a dab stereo and HUGE jbl basstube in the boot, that in fairness has been on about twice since fitting, if i keep it quiet i can't hear it over the exhaust, if i crank it up i can't hear the exhaust and i like to hear that, future plans are to now take the audio out and fit a 3 gauge plate in the din hole and some decent gauges in there instead as for sat nav units, i have just sold a pioneer avic unit that was £795 new and only used for 3 months for £200, i've always been a fan of sony stuff but after fitting the pioneer i can't recommend them enough, mine had parrot bluetooth built in which allowed you to sync all your contacts and dial them off the screen, it was made to work very well with the ipod/iphone with the usb connection, you could put your apple product hidden away and get the tracks from the screen, sound quality was immense, never heard anything from a car stereo so crisp and clear the sat nav aspect was almost as good as tomtom units, it was update-able via the software you get for the computer and register your unit, there was a range of colours for the illumination to match pretty much all cars available the unit i had was a AVIC F310BT it's no longer on the market and was sat in my garage for a while, you can still get them but if your not worried about leaving the unit in the car i'd go for a bigger screen version, mine was a face off unit so you lost a bit of screen size due to that, it wasn't a DVD player so i didn't find that an issue Pioneer units my old unit

if you had the later clocks with the temp and fuel dials both on the left i have a set of them in the garage you could have had, it means rewiring the loom behind the dash and replacing the dash for the later one too though i believe other wise i'd have done it to mine lol

yeh i'll sell it for a few quids, if your interested make me an offer, it's no good to me as i have a turbo and the sport clutch is likely to be different