Miggs

On the classics the earth is from the gear box to the chassis leg/battery, most cars have one from the gearbox to the battery or somewhere near the battery as an earth point, the wife's first car a pug 306 had issues one day on the way to uni, she said the clocks were bouncing the needles all over the place and the engine was acting like she was out of fuel despite filling the tank before she left, I told her to get to uni as she was half a mile away and I'd go and look at it, she didn't get there, it died just round the corner, I went to go look at it and straight away spotted the earth had snapped off the box end, in was expecting a fried ecu so was quite shocked when I re connected it and it fired up, I've had a bad earth on a v6 conversion I've done for someone too, they were all connected but as they'd been removed and refitted they were not making full contact and we only had 2 out of 6 injectors firing, I got some 8awg cable from my audio system and ran it from the neg on the battery to the fuel rail and got all 6 injectors, I then removed all earth's and sanded all the connecting faces and refitted and it was fixed, even though they weren't dirty they still didn't contact properly

I was of the belief that 99 - 01 classics could be mapped on the stock ecu, it's only something I've heard so don't quote me on that

Haha, you wanna hear me rant about mobile phones, that's my second love after cars, I've had a mobile phone since I was 18 and I'm 36 now, I've always had the latest and greatest and I pass the car phone warehouse staff off when I go in because I'm telling them about phones that they didn't even know ow existed yet lol

That's the kinda spirit all forums should share, well done guys for the offering, it's hard to be exact when you can't do things to check over a computer, and I've never had a cracked piston myself but I've seen it happen to a mates golf, although it was more a chunk from the top that escalated to massive failure lol, I'm sure the op will be very grateful and I do hope it's something simple and cheap to fix, nothing worse than a new car that's broken when your skint

I've just noticed how much spell correct had jumped in on that last post, I really need to start reading them before I post

If that spec fuzzy is the same as the impreza it should be obd2 also if by generic you mean original equipment then it could well have been in for some years already and thus why it's failing, if you mean generic for its fault then that's not something I know about for that particular part, any cars I've had lambdas on has always been juicy and decatted so a failing sensor wouldn't be noticeable unless I got the problems you described, my current lambda is faulty and causes a slight over fueling but that's all, I had a v6 golf with twin cats and 4 lambdas, 2 of them failed but at 130 notes each I just lived with the over fueling instead, it helps having a tester at the mot station that looks the other way for non safety related issues

Oh and don't get a cheap universal lambda, it will last less than a year, buy a quality brand oe where possible

I'm not sure how accurate this is but I was always told to leave the battery off for an hour, it's always been left overnight or an hour 10 mins and worked for me, also with vw's if you undo the terminals of the battery and touch together for 10 seconds OFF BATTERY it drains the residual power from the system, not sure if that works with subarus

My maf was faulty when I got the car, the guy explained it just like papa has and as soon as I relayed that info to a mate he knew it was the maf, he then told me to do the diagnosis thing for classics and that confirmed what he had said, mine was fine coming down the revs but would have a break in the pull under load, it idled sometimes lumpy and sometimes died altogether, weird thing was with mine you could have a 2 mile drive with it doing it non stop and other times you could drive 20 miles without a hiccup

I have a UK 2000 wagon on the 8S ecu too, I have a full larger bore stainless system with only a back box as a restriction, and that's straight through too, it has stock ecu, stock td04 turbo and stock injectors, I have an HKS fcd, a manual boost controller and forge dump valve, my boost gauges reads 1.4 bar (20 psi) when on full chat and has been like this since I got it, I rarely drive sensible and the cars covered over 150k miles, I haven't run into any problems at all at the moment but I am looking at getting more power in the future, I too will be getting a new ecu as you have read correct and the stock pre 99 can't be mapped, the esl is very limited in functions though and I can only assume you don't wanna spend too much money on a bit of circuit board, I'm the same but as I know i will probably keep adding to the mods I want an ecu I can keep with me through the mods and I'll be going for the ecutek or simtek when the time comes Hope that's answered some bits for you, if there's owt else I can help with please just ask

I'm 36 and pay just over 300 fully comp with 3 points and an accident a few years ago, my wife's on the policy as a second driver too and is 31, I wasn't asked about security whether it be an alarm or tracker, some companies wouldn't touch me without a tracker My last car was a mk4 golf V6 4 wheel drive and that was nearly 600 a year

Good luck with it pal, looks really nice

I'm intrigued myself, welcome to the forum by the way, looks like an interesting build, I would have thought it would be more cost effective to just fit a 2.0 turbo

Does look cool that and being a different colour to the stock dials means you a drawn to where it is straight away

As your an android user try downloading aptoide from the play store, then open aptoide and search for tapatalk, you want the one with a dark orange logo not the light peach one, if it can't find it hit the button at the bottom that asks search other stores, you should find at least one of the dark orange versions, hit install as per and just try not to update it, also aptoide offers most paid apps for free too

Oh and I've used a pioneer avic all singing all dancing satnav unit before, I'd most definitely buy another if I have a double din car again, great sound quality as a stereo, great navigation as a satnav, great bluebook features for the phone and if your an apple user great features for its based music files

Welcome to the forum fella, I'm not 100% on new age scoobs but I do know you can swap the front ends from the bug eye to the hawk eye and the bumpers and back lights too, I'd look at the shape of the boot lid on the other 2 models, bug and blob, if they look the same shape then they may well fit like other parts, this would make the search for one somewhat easier and likely cheaper too, I'd just get a second opinion on whether it will fit or not first though

Hmm with the list of stuff you've tried I'm stumped, it sounds like the map as the are prone to these faults, is the other man new or used? Could be a dodgy used one, or even a bad batch of new ones, also was it genuine or repro, is the label the same as the one you removed? Are the wires for the man in tact at the 3 pin plug?

Backfire is usually caused my excess fuel or iffy spark, if there's a dump valve these can cause a small pop, as the boost is released the ecu isn't mapped to know it's going to release so keeps fueling for a split second causing the extra fuel to to into the exhaust and hit a hot turbo causing a pop A knackered coil pack can also be to blame As for no eml, this only comes on for something controlled electrically by the ecu, as the turbo and it's components are not controlled by it then it doesn't know to tell you there's a problem If the actuator is not moving under acceleration this will stop the car reaching its required boost level and is probably caused by an air leak, a tiny hole or crack anywhere in the system could cause this Have you checked over all the pipes you removed, I messed about with the intercooler a while back on mine, I took it in the house to straighten all the bent fins, when I put it back I left off the pipe from the dump valve, the car sounded odd and didn't boost right, I assumed I'd punctured the i/c until I spotted the pipe Can you hear any hissing from under the bonnet on idle, although mine idled lumpy but you could have a pin hole somewhere

I doubt it as it's still labour cost for someone to strip it down, a Campbell alone is about £200 just to supply the full kit is obviously more, gasket set another couple of hundred, by the time you've paid for the parts you could have a new engine and still get change, I'm speculating based on what I see the parts for online, it doesn't hurt to ask some garages how much they'd charge

Yeh more than happy to help mate, let us know what you decide to do and we can try and help as much as possible

It's being here that's corrupted me lol

That sounds more like soot and condensation to be honest, how much oil has it lost over how long? If you do need to sort the piston the easiest way is going to be replace the engine, unlike a straight 4 or straight 6 because of the boxer design the block is in the middle and is 2 halves bolted together, to get a piston out on the con rod you need to split the centre of the engine, just the piston will come out by undoing a big hex nut on the block and some circuit pliers (long nose) through the hole to release the gudgeon pin, to get the pin out I found putting a screwdriver in with insulation tape but up quite thick, push into the visible hole for the pin and give it a wiggle while pulling outward, once done the piston will come out the top of the block, it's costly as you need to replace the head gaskets, timing belt and tensioner and idlers, I would look into the cost of the required parts against the cost of a second hand engine, just make sure you can see the engine running so you can hear it's not knocking and see if it's smoking

I've just been having the same issues on both my tablet and my phone, I messed about a fair bit and somehow found a bit that said something about email confirmation, there was a recent update to the app and I've never had to confirm before, I went to my emails and found a welcome email from tapatalk but no link for confirming, I came back to my phone to check the message again and I can now get in without having to sign in, I just opened up tapatalk and the forums were there again, weird but it seemed to work, might be worth checking your emails

How could you not buy a piece of history, no modified car is the same as a true wrc car or touring car or dtm car, I know it's not a Colin car or Richard car but it's still wrc