Miggs

The old boiler had a fan that used to seize over summer, quick lube in winter and worked a treat, then it started burning a dodgy colour flame so got a new install throughout 3 years ago, I have done some more hunting on the net and it looks like the pump unit that was also new 3 years ago and has a 2.5 year warranty is the issues, I was told as it's a gravity fed system to drain a ground floor rad, once done turn the heating on bleed upstairs rads of air and see if boiler fires, I did this and finally got an error code from the boiler saying no circulation which points at a duff pump, I think if I get one I could fit it myself, looks quite easy With regards my car, I've ordered and recurved the new crank seal and cam belt, took the cover off and it's quite dry round the crank, took the rad out for a better inspection and noticed the oil return pipe looks like it's been previously repaired, badly, I've jet washed the entire underside of the car and all the areas with oil on, now dark so will take a look tomorrow, I'm gonna throw some more oil in and if it's not instantly visible I'll run the engine for a quick stint and see where it's coming from, as a temp repair until I find a new pipe what would he best do you think? A piece of radiator type pipe that can handle the pressure of some of that metal putty stuff, or maybe a combination of the 2?

I've found the easiest way to spot an import saloon is the rear window wiper, imports have the UK ones don't, unless it's the ra import that doesn't have one as it's a lightweight model

If your fixing it up its worth spending the extra time and rebuild the one you have, they are know for big end issues, get some performance bearings when you reassemble so any future mods you won't be stripping it all down again, if touch do plan on big power later on it would be worth doing the con rods too, pistons are easy enough to remove without stripping the block

Nice base for all the mods you said you won't but actually will fit lol

That looks the same as mine, if it's a genuine one it'll have forge stamped around the top bit, there's lots of copies about, I know from mine the the genuine forge doesn't cause running issues, !Removed! bargain all in pal

There's a company on my Facebook called Hydrotek Custom Coatings, they do some awesome work, their carbon coating is by far the best I've seen yet, there's a dipper in Southport goes by the name of westcoast powder coating but I've known many people in the vag scene dealt with him and been ripped off one way or another so I'd avoid him

Welcome along, best of luck with the mot, just doing some work on mine at the moment

the pdf i sent is better to go from the bottom up as the speaker wiring is close to the bottom

i'm in a similar situation, i have zero funds and i'm using more oil than petrol at the moment due to an oil seal leak, i know the car has been looked after in the past as it's got history for it all the way through, it's a 97 car so quite old and has 155k miles on the clock, if i cut my losses and buy another i'm in the situation of not knowing of any underlying issues that may arise so a new car may cost more in the long term, if i repair the car myself or get a garage that is trusted to do the work then i know that it's going to be a bit less to go wrong in the future, i have been in this situation before with a car, it was a 20 year old car that because of my driving style it was blowing and engine or gearbox at least once a year, over 5/6 years i spent over 7.5k on it keep rebuilding or buying new bits for it, the last engine that went kaput was just a knackered thermostat but i fitted a new rad and blew the heater matrix and thought it was a head gasket issue so sold the whole lot for £500 with all the receipts for money spent so made a massive loss on a car that would have cost me £20 to get it sorted, on one hand i'm happy i gave up as i now have the impreza, on the other hand it pisses me off as i know i lost so much money for nothing it's a damned if you do damned if you don't kind of dilema i think if you trust the rest of the car or can get it looked over in depth and find its a good one fix and keep, if it turns out there is other issues that will cost in the future leave now and get another

yeh it's hot water and heating, the hot water side of things is fine just the rads, when it's heating the hot water a blue light comes on to say it's burning, the heating brings up a C and the blue light, the C comes up saying the stat and timer are calling for heat but it doesn't fire, i'm going to drain the rad from the bottom this morning see if theres an issue elsewhere in the system stopping it, i joined a central heating forum, all was going well with the advice until i told them i open the from casing of the boiler (no major parts are exposed as it's a sealed unit) and blew it out with the compressor incase there was dust blocking something, i got a resounding "on that note i'm out of here, i suggest you call a boiler technician and get them to look at it before you hurt yourself" it's like i told them i'd lit a match to find a gas leak lol

I must admit I'd never use a hand car wash, I don't like anybody but me washing the car, never looks as good when someone else does it

Welcome aboard, good luck in your search and be sure to post pics of whatever you end up getting

Ok, just checked the fuses and both for the heater are in tact, I did take the resistor looking thing out and cleaned the metal plate that was mounted to it just incase that had something to do with it, now with all this messing about I'm not sure what was causing the problem as today is the first time I have run the car since I filled up with radweld and it didn't seem to cure it but on the trip to school I've just had heat WOOHOO Cheers for the help

the heater matrix has a fuse? i just assumed it was always hot as it came from the radiator water and the flap just directed into the car as you turn the temp knob, i will go look at that in a min (looks at clock) maybe not, i have the school run in a min, also the part i took off that has a resistor looking thing is between the main unit in the centre of the dash and the fan unit on the passenger side, i looked on a my2000 matrix i have in the shed but that's only 2 pieces whereas mine appears to be 3, it could be mine is non aircon on the newer one in the shed had aircon, will check fuse while out, cheers pal, let you know shrtly

sent it pal ;)

tried them when i first got mine, i got ignored numerous times via the phone when i was told i'd get a call back, i wrote them an email and i got a short response saying "at this time we have to refuse to insure you" so went elsewhere, don't get me wrong though they are popular on other subie forums so might just have been my bad luck lol

the wife said she was gonna clean it the other week as the fake stones on the tp had got miss lodged, stones were straight so i assumed it had been cleaned, i did however drag the compressor out of the garage to give the inside of the boiler a blow out to make sure there was no crap in there, gave the fire the same treatment, fires fixed but boilers still not working, cheers for the advice though

welcome aboard fella

welcome aboard fella, look forward to seeing some photies

oh and i have no heat in my car either, i cleared the radiator of radweld shortly after i got the car as i wanted to see if there was a leak just how bad it was, since i did this there has been air getting in the system, i re rad welded it just to see if that sorted the air lock issue which it seems to have done (new rad when i have spare cash) but i still can't get the car to warm up inside, i have just got in from messing about checking the flaps are all working as they should in the heater unit and they are, i can only assume its some kind of resistor that i spotted in the centre tube section i pulled out behind the glovebox, i have no idea what or how this would affect it just grasping at straws, and the wife called this morning to tell me her car was wheel spinning in the wet so she checked the tyres and found she has 2 bald fronts

we have our fair share of problems too, nice little bundle of expense, i have a blown front crank seal on the impreza, not a costly part in itself but it'll need a new cam belt kit to sort it, i have been putting it off for a while as it was a minimal amount of leakage, i'm now spending more on putting oil in every day than petrol, it's using around 5litres every 10 or so miles, the wifes car has started telling me it needs a service and the boiler has refused to give us heat for the last 3 days, turned the gas fire on last night and for some unknown reason it turned itself off after 10 mins, had to wait for it t cool before it would come back on then exactly 10 mins later it went off again :(

i used to have some dished wheels with a 4" bare alloy lip, they were a nightmare to clean after the winter build up of crap, i had to use a polishing wheel on a dremel with some autosol solvol metal polish, takes a while but it worked

i have the proper wiring diagram but i can't read one to save my life, i have drop box installed on the laptop i just forgot how i share the files with it

i've just bought some optimal wheel cleaner that a mate of mine makes and sells, my wheels were black on the front, i sprayed with the jet wash and got rid of a little of it, i then applied the wheel cleaner, waited till it was dark purple and jet washed off, the wheels came out looking brand new with no physical effort needed, here is his ebay sales link click i can't rate this stuff enough, he's a good bloke too and will happily advise you on what to use for whatever problem you have click for website you would be better calling instead of emailing as he is extremely busy and can't always get to his email straight away, just tell him Miggs sent you

pm me your email address and i will send you the PDF for wiring on the classic impreza