Tlag

200 miles old from brand new or since a rebuild? If it's from brand new, it must have been stored badly

I use the dark grey stuff. I think it's called graphite grease. If that makes sense.

It sounds possibly like the driveshaft. If the gaiter has split and the joint dried up, it would do as you describe. Even of the gaiter is in good condition, it's worth investigating. If it does it when turning but not so much in a straight line, im fairly certain it's the driveshaft.

The LPG system has it's own ecu which is mapped when installed to whatever the car requires. I had a top of the range system fitted when I first bought the car and it was setup accordingly. A couple of years later, I upgraded the turbos and such like and had the LPG ecu remapped accordingly.

Welcome along. Good choice of car. LPG, I've been running cars with LPG for about 15yrs now, everything from a 1.4 Citroen to one of my 280bhp a Subarus. Can't fault LPG conversions and just can't see why it never took off over here like it has elsewhere in the world. Everyone moans about the cost of fuel but are sceptical when a viable alternative comes along. Depending on make of the conversion, you do lose a little performance on gas, usually 5-10%. However, nothing beats the smile factor at the filling station. I always carry a space saver spare, just loose in the boot and if travelling a good distance, like abroad, for example, I take a full size spare.

Have you hit any deep pot holes? Bricks, logs etc? I wonder if one of the shocks has given up or maybe bent something.

Are you saying that changing the wheels round is what started the problem? If so, I would guess you have a slightly buckled wheel and putting it on a different hub has shown it up. Try swapping the wheels back to the original positions to see if the problem goes

If the price is for the whole kit, belt, tensioner and pulleys, the parts alone could be £200 ish depending on model. The job takes between 2-3 hrs and then you have vat so it all depends what the hourly rate is. It's probably worth changing the water pump whilst in there too.

216/226 bhp as standard? I thought they were higher than that. My 17 yr old legacy had 280 as standard!

I found that when in a multi storey car park, I can set car alarms off just by driving normally past them. Is it wrong to smile when they go off :)

The build has slowed a little but is still progressing. Have now fitted the buckets/shims and camshafts. Finally fitted the cam covers with new gaskets and started building the front covers up

Sounds just like an air lock. When you fill her up again, try to get the nose of the car higher than the back if you can. They can be a pita to bleed and making the fill point the highest point will help. The above description of how to bleed it is spot on, but I would just add that when the engine is running, put the heater vents towards the windscreen and turn the heater on full. (only reason to put the vents towards the screen, is so you can feel the warm air through an open drivers window, if that makes sense).

Over here, our cars are checked every year for emission output which means it's a bit difficult to decat an exhaust for example. Do you not have a yearly safety check on the cars in the US?

3 port boost solenoid a are all over ebay for between 20 and 40. I still need one too. An up rated fuel,pump should be less than £100. The ecu is located under a plate in the passengers footwell. Peel back the carpet where the carpet starts to go up from the floor and you will see a metal plate. Under the plate is the ecu.

About 3 hrs is right. To do it in that time, you need someone who knows Subarus and has a 4 post lift.

It will either be a 2.5l flat four or a 3.0l flat 6 (H6) Either way, the best upgrades are: a full service with a better panel air filter and an exhaust with easier flow, but be careful about emission laws.

Welcome along. I always admired the SVX and there are very few around as you probably know. Is yours an import or UK car?

When you say the engine cut out, do you mean the engine actually stopped and you had to restart it? or do you mean, it felt like you very suddenley ran out of power? If it was the later, it sounds like fuel cut, which is waht happens when the ecu detects a problem in the system and only gives you a kind of limp home mode. As has been said above, whatever happened, check for codes first.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Sorry, I missed this thread. The red oil light on the dash, is not a level light. It is a pressure light. To be honest, its a pretty rubbish pressure light, because the only time it will come on as you drive is when its too late. The only real use for it is when you do an oil change. Once you have changed the oil, unplug the cam position sensor and turn the ignition key until the red pressure light goes out, plug the sensor back in and start the car. Its just a way of making sure you have oil throughout the engine before putting too much power through it at normal rpm. Once you have done an oil change just keep your eye on the levels for a while.

Welcome to the forum. glad your enjoying the car. Its usually at this point that someone points out that we need to see some pictures. :) Dosnt matter what model you drive as long as its a Subaru.

Good advice. Water pumps can and do fail so definitely worth doing

It sounds to me that you thought the expansion tank had to be full so you filled it, only to find it was down again the following day, so you filled it again.? If so, it should only be about 2 thirds full and it will expell the rest so that's normal. The belts that look frayed are either the air con or power steering belt, not the timing belt. The squeal you hear is probably the frayed belt rubbing on something or a pully squeal. I don't think you have anything to worry about

You must have taken the timing belt cover off at one end to see the belt. Can you see any writing on the belt

Ok, the amount of bubbles you describe dosnt sound like head gasket. I would now be looking really closely at a radiator leak. Subaru rads are prone to cracks in the plastic end tanks. With the engine running and at temperature. Look down all the sides of the rad with a torch. Pay particular attention to the end tanks at both ends.

Before going to a garage, do the check on the bubbles in the expansion tank. If you have bubbles, no amount of flushing will cure it. If you do take it to a garage, get them to do a sniff test. That will leave you in no doubts