Tlag

To flush the system out, drain the coolant, ( radiator drain plug is bottom, drivers side corner of rad, engine side). I then remove the bottom rad hose and the thermostat. Then get a garden hose and put water through the entire system until it all runs clean, put it all back together, fill system and bleed it. Job done.

The metal header tank with the metal cap on is effectively the radiator cap, so you would put it in there, but don't, you will waste money and make things potentially worse by creating a blockage. If you have a lot of bubbles in the expansion tank, it's head gaskets. Rad weld will do nothing for that scenario. There are products that you can add that are supposed to fix head gaskets. However, the fix can last anything from a week to 6 months. Beyond that, it's unlikely to last due to the pressures inside a subaru engine. Having seen inside an engine after that stuff has been used, the clean up is horrendous and you will require more new parts than if you just have the head gaskets done now. ( if that is the problem, of course). The other thing to point out is, if you do use one of those products, it is very obvious to a potential buyer, that you have done so.

Looking good. I do like those lights as well. I've done the oven trick on some Legacy lights and it's always a case of, is it done yet? :)

DO NOT use rad weld. That stuff is only for a leak in the radiator. It won't stop this but could make things worse. By all means, change the coolant and flush it through but don't use any additives. You need to fix the actual problem.

It's quote unusual for coolant and oil to mix when head gaskets go in a Subaru, due to the cylinder bores being surrounded by a water jacket. They usually go at that point which means the combustion gasses are forced onto the coolant system. After a drive, engine still running, flip open the yellow plastic cap on the expansion bottle. (The one attached to the radiator). If you see a lot of bubbles, and it frothing, then the head gaskets are probably gone. Just under the head of that tank is a very small breather hole. If the system is too full of coolant to able able to take those gasses, the coolant will overflow out of that hole, but usually you won't see it because, it happens whilst you are driving. However, immediately after driving, that area will show signs of damp, dirty water marks.

With the ignition on, but not the engine, you should get all the lights on the dashboard on. Is 'check engine' amongst them. It has been known for some sellers to remove that bulb, to hide potential problems when selling. Reason I mention this is that I find it very odd that no codes are stored with the problem you have.

I think black and gold has always been a superb colour scheme, since the days of the old JPS lotus F 1 cars. I'm not sure how a gold fmic would look though. It would be huge piece of gold in a black front end. I've always thought that a small amount of gold detailing on black looks best, but that's just my opinion. Maybe the fins of the front mount in black but the top and bottom tank in gold, if that makes sense. If the lower IC pipes are visible, maybe do those in gold with black hoses too.

Agreed, it looks a lot better now. :)

That looks soooo nice :)

Check the engine mounts. If one has split, the car will pull one way or the other when accelerating or braking.

Had a break from building my engine today. Been to a friends and helped build his engine instead, :)

As above, White is always a pig to keep looking nice. Having said that, when they are clean, they look superb and gold wheels really sets them off. Bmw alpine White is a good choice. The subaru White is too creamy in comparison. In fact most Japanese whites seem to go that way. I saw a white Jag f-type the other day which really was crisp so that may be worth a look too.

I can't help with the part but here's my local subaru dealers number near coventry. 01676 533145. They have always been great for me, even with JDM stuff, which is unusual for a UK dealer

Today started with work underneath So, first job is to install the baffle plate and oil pick up Next was to cover it up again :) With the bottom done as much as I need at the moment, attentions turned to the heads. The Arp head studs first Head gaskets fitted And heads put one and torqued up Then, I couldn't wait any longer, so I had to mock up the exhaust manifold :) It will have to come off again but I couldn't help myself.

The starter motor is a separate issue. That's either the motor or a dying battery

I agree, check for codes first. It's going into limp mode for some reason. It's not boosting right either, so I'm guessing it's MAF related but the codes will reveal all.

Today was a good day :) Got loads done but started with a box First step is a fiddly one, fitting the new piston rings Then on to fitting the pistons. That meant putting the block back on the bench Once all four are fitted, it's time to put the block back on the stand. Next up was the oil pump. Shiney:) And finally for today, the water pump. It's looking good now :)

There were some blue ones on a car I bought last year. Trouble was, the anodising was flaking which made them look really nasty. I have no idea how long they had been on the car though, or if they were the same make.

First thing to do is not accept the first offer they make. On the second offer, they normally explain that it's there final offer. Next, at that point, ask how much it would cost to but the car back from them. I've never known them say no unless it's a bad accident. The other thing is, you shouldn't lose the excess for the insurance. The other party has admitted to it, so technically, the claim is through that persons insurance, not yours.

At risk of starting an argument, the Legacy is more civilised and aimed more at the luxury side, not to mention having a much larger boot area for your dogs. The WRX is obviously more sporty, although the interior is less inspiring. The Legacy won't let you down on performance, compared to many other estate cars on the road, but compared to the WRX, it will be lacking. All depends what you want from the car really.

Great stuff. :)

I have one of those tools which are great but you have to use needle nose pliers to put the collets in place. Problem is, after about the third use, the pliers suddenly become magnetic and won't let go of the collet. Then you have to use a small screwdriver to hold the collet in place as you withdraw the pliers. At this point you need 3 hands But only have room in the work area for 3 fingers. It's THAT type of job :)

Had chance to do a bit today, after sorting out the garden fence from last nights winds. Today was about the heads, well, 1 of the heads anyway :) Time put them back together. First up, new valve stem seals and sorting the valves out. . Then, once the valves had all been cleaned up with a wire brush, it was time to lap them in and reseat them All 8 valves in Then the bit I dread most, fitting the collets to hold the valve springs in. It's such a fiddly time consuming task. Done :) Well, that's one head done anyway. One more to do, maybe tomorrow

Hi and welcome along. Any particular reason your avatar is upside down? :)

Thats a shame. :( Good luck with the sale.