Tlag

Looks great, you just need to lower it a tad now :)

It's the same on the Legacies. The fuel filler pipe has such poor protection they just rot through. Thankfully it's only a 10 min job to change them

Good news! I heard it running properly for the first time today. :) I had the mapper call in and sort the base map out. The fuelling was all over the place but that got sorted. Now I'm left with an air leak somewhere in the IC pipework. With all the work that's gone in to this, that's a minor issue in my book. Hopefully, depending how my fitness is next week, I can get this sorted and on the road. It sounds awesome and with so much more to come, it's getting to the fun bit. :)

I don't know of it's the same with Imprezas as Legacies, it probably is. To a certain extent, you can make your ecu learn about minor changes. I suspect the ecu dosnt like the air filter change having learnt how to cope with the aftermarket one. In a Legacy, the way to make it re-learn is as follows. Disconnect the battery for an hour, then re-connect. Go for a steady drive off boost. Make sure you use all 5 gears. Turn engine off, re start and it should have learnt. You can't do any harm doing this and it may work.

That makes me old then and I'm defiantly not old yet. :) Nice fozzy. Great choice of colour too.

I have no idea on this. I've only ever fitted what was supposed to be fitted. I have a feeling the answer is yes, but I wouldn't want you to spend money on that assumption.

I've always had a thing about this type of behaviour. I think it should be post limited and be a sensible number, say 50. If it's any less, it's too easy to just post rubbish on a few threads and then put the for sale ad up.

Water pump is a good call. It won't cost much extra to have it done at the same time as it's all apart already.

If you force it too much, it will break. Worse than that, it actually sits in a bracket that is part of the oil pump casting and you really don't want to break that. Once in a while I find one like this that has probably been there since new and refuses to budge, no matter what. The way I do it is to soak it in wd40 overnight then try again in the morning. If that fails, it's time to get serious and really commit to removing it. Apply more force in the turning action. Sometimes with the extra force, they will move. More often, the top breaks off. At that point, you have to carry on. I would normally use a pair of pliers and gradually pull bits out but what you will be left with is the outside case of the sensor still stuck in the bracket. I then get a very slim, small flat blade screwdriver and try and get it down between the brack and the sensor case. The case is a much softer metal and should give quite easily. Once you have a gap down the side, get a pair of long nose pliers in it, one prong in the gap and the other in the sensor, grip tightly and turn the pliers so you screw the sensor cap up. Then it's just a matter of patience and fiddling to get it out.

I'm not sure how old the car is. If it's 1999/2000 shape, look at the round brake vacuum cylinder on the bulkhead. You should see some wiring directly in front of it running in a bottom to top direction. A plug in the middle of the wires should be clearly visible. Unplug it and go for a drive. Those cars had a system that made the steering really light at low speeds and stiffened it up at higher speeds. With the plug unplugged, you should find the steering to be at the higher speed setting which is still easily good enough for low speed manoeuvring. If this does as above, it will put the power steering light on on the dash. I'm afraid I don't know exactly how to fix it but it must be to do with a worn sensor that can't figure out what speed it's at. The only one I have experience of did as you described but only until the power steering warmed up. It was fine after that. Hope that helps.

Cam position sensor or crank sensor will also inhibit the pump. Both of those will throw a code so checking the codes would be the next thing I would do. Another thing I would check would be earthing. Look at all the earth leads from the body to the engine. Usually get them from the suspension turret area to the inlet manifold plus some from the heads to the chassis rails.

I agree. A 4 wheel alignment will always prove beneficial anyway. It will reduce tyre wear and give better handling. I've fitted Impreza suspension onto a Fozzy and that needs rear camber bolts as well but I've not fitted coilys so not sure how it would feel

Oh no, that's bad news. At least you have 2 options to get yourself out of it though. Good luck with the test drive

The two black plugs (one wire to each) are in front of where your left knee would be whilst driving. Get a torch and look up behind the dash in that area. You should see a whole clump of wires and plugs. You should see the black ones, some green ones, a yellow one and a pink one at least. If they have never been used before, they may still be taped all together. Once you have the black ones, plug them together. Turn the key in the ignition until the lights come on the dash. The check engine light will flash. Long flashes count 10 and short ones count as 1. It will flash the code and then the next code until it has shown them all and then repeat so it's worth taking the time to watch it go through a couple of times to make sure you have them. There is no OBD on these older Legacies.

Should be good for 350 then

With a td05, an up rated top mount and a remap, 350 should be achievable. The limiting factor will be fuelling. What injectors do you have and what fuel pump?

Would there be enough room over the inlet manifold?

I wonder if the belt jumped a tooth or two. If the previous owner changed the belt and not the tensioner, it can do that.

That's a project I fancied doing for years, a 2ltr twin twin turbo in a justy. Although I wanted to do it to the suzuki swift shape one

Other than saving a tight bend in the IC pipework, I'm not sure what benefits that would have. Although, it would have saved me a lot of time when I first installed everything. I'm thinking of going one step further. Once the car is run in and has it's full map on, it will be a maffless system. At that point, I won't need the air intake pipe under the manifold for anything. So, my idea is to mount the turbo in the inner wing, low down with a very short direct air feed via a filter so some sort. It would make for odd shape exhaust and IC pipes but the spool up time should be minimal. I just need to weigh up the pros and cons to see if it would be worth it. As I have the 2.5 which should be really torquey, it may not be much of an improvement.

Savage, I hadn't considered that. I'll have a look.

It's a 2ltr sump so that's out. I'm leaning towards the MD but as I've always had VF's it's a bit of a decision. At least a 35 can be rebuilt easily

I've actually already got a GT35 with the relevant rotated pipe work. Although, I've changed my mind on that as it's total overkill. I'm now thinking MD321, or maybe VF34 or 35

I've not done a single mile yet. I had an issue with the ESL ecu to start with. That was sent away to be sorted and only came back today. I've not been too bothered about the car for the last few weeks as I've slipped a disc so as yet, can't drive it anyway. I fitted these today as i look on is as 'therapy' :)

It comes with it's own sensors. I would have liked the toucan system myself but it wouldn't work with the legacy ecu so I had to go this route. It's similar cost to a Defi system but I just hate all the extra circular gauges everywhere. It's just personal taste.