savage bulldogs

My old bug sti ej207 might look a bit different due to the tgv delete and avcs oil feed but essentially all turbo impreza from 92 to late 04 (twin scroll) are a very similar set up bud . Heres a pic of that area with the turbo fitted . The pipe with the heat shield fitted is the coolant return the oil return is the other pipe in that area but it's more central as it leaves the turbo drain pipe and attaches to the block on the lower left 😉 The misfire could well be either a dodgy coil pack or the coilpack plug not seating properly , especially if it has some putty bogged around it . Try removing the coilpack and plug ,then giving them a good clean up ,to insure good contact is being made . Swap number 2 coilpack for one off a different cylinder, reset the ECU and restart . If the code goes away it was a loose connection and if the coilpack plug is still loose , cable tie it on to stop it vibrating loose . If the code comes back but it's on the cylinder you moved the original no2 cylinder coilpack to , then the original no 2 cylinder coilpack is at fault 🤓😉

If the smoke is in the bay and not coming out of the back box then it sounds like a external leak dripping on the exhaust system ,rather than a internal leak (engine burning oil). This is on a ej207 I built but the oil feed to the turbo connects to the white circle. Then goes through the turbo , drains down a rubber pipe (bottom centre of the turbo) and into a hard pipe that returns the oil into the engine where the yellow "circle " (excuse my sausage finger circle drawing ) 😂 The turbo drain pipe is probably best seen from underneath and is held to the turbo oil drain take off and oil drain return hard pipe by spring clips . Tbh it's more likely to be the cam cover gasket/half moons but thought its worth mentioning the above while your looking in that area . Wouldn't want to say whether it's safe to drive, as it depends how bad the leak is and where it comes from but if you need to use it .... keep a eye on levels and off boost ,as if its leaking oil too much it might cause a drop in oil pressure.

As tidgy has said the rocker gasket and half moons are the usual culprits in that area . As the up pipe runs very close to the seals on that side and they get brittle from the heat cycles. Only other thing that has oil in that area is the turbo , so might be worth checking the turbo oil drain and feed before ordering anything 😉

Cross reference the piston crown design on both the standard and the ones that are supposed to be in it . Hopefully they'll be a visual difference that you can spot easily. As for the boost solenoid code , this refers to the solenoid for boost control that runs off the manifold and turbo outlet vacuum pressure. Could try checking the small bore vacuum pipes that run from the solenoid to inlet manifold and turbo . These sometimes crack or split due to heat cycles in the bay .

Personally I wouldn't want to keep a car that either burns a lot of oil or that the previous owner didn't check the oil levels in . As running a performance car with half a litre of oil in, would likely have caused some long term damage damage that would dramatically shorten engine life Does the engine look like it's been removed /cleaned ? . If you know the engine spec and what headgaskets were used , you can see the part of the headgaskets that normally have the brand on by looking at them .As they poke out between head and block along the top of the block . Otherwise a endoscope down the bore might let you identify the piston type has been fitted . You probably could get your money back just through the lack of oil but if you visually check the headgaskets and they've not been upgraded as described, I'd say it would strengthen your case for a refund .

Turned up at Clive Attowes in Norwich at 8 am and found I had some nice turbo retro petrol for company. which was just as well as I wasn't allowed inside the workshop due to social distancing Can't lie it didn't start off the best as I seemed to loose some spool on the way there This turned out to be the wastegate not shutting properly anymore yep after changing the spring and finding the right amount of actuator arm pretension... I'd forgot to tighten a lock nut Once light and part throttle fuelling was done he started to feed some boost in and it started to spin the wheels in 4th . Strapped down tighter the 565cc nismos soon made a respectable 375hp /355flbs at just under 1.4 bar . With heat soak setting in nicely he broke for lunch to let it cool off a bit in front of his fans . The apexi does what its asked but for some reason it's always picked up false knock as the boost comes in . Here's a old pic of the oe engine ,turbo and apexi /knock sensor, showing a blip in the graph . This particular ECU, knock sensor and car has always done it , even with oe engine ,2ltr forged and now the 2.1 . We're almost 100 % sure its background noise (something rattling against or tapping on the block or chassis) As there's nothing in the det cans and attowe knows his stuff but to be safe he pulled a bit of timing in that area again , hence the blip in the new graphs and my long winded explanation too I finally ended up with 382.1hp /351flbs and 565cc injectors at 92% The turbo seems to spool fairly well for a 20g , hitting 1 bar about 3.6k on the dyno and still has a bit more to give . I'm happy with the build and how the car drives /pulls but will probably get some 850cc and either a linkg4+ or emu black ECU in the future..... these things do tend to snowball

Maf's do have delicate wires ,so can be damaged fairly easily but normally if the get dropped or have current run through them whilst wet or oily. So long as your careful and make sure its dry before fitting you should be fine bud . If it is very dirty /oily it might have been giving incorrect voltage readings to the ECU, which the ecu might have "learned " So if you do clean it it might be worth doing a ECU reset once refitted too , although the ecu will probably re learn the difference eventually

I'd say listen to some vids of different exhausts online , I know cobra used to have some vids of their products fitted on their website and there's plenty of others on YouTube. I'd also say that future exhaust system mods could affect exhaust note and volume. My old 5zigen cat back sounded just right at first but after fitting headers, uppipe and downpipe .. it was !Removed! brutal lol . Miltek, prodrive and Haywood and Scott tend to be fairly quiet. Cobra do straight through ear bleeders to 3" trackday friendly stuff . Rcm stuff is good quality but it comes at a price. Nur spec ,hks, fubitsu ect for jdm looks .

I've very nearly bought a GTB a few times but I have a van for work and have stuck with imprezas. Lovely clean looking example and welcome to s.o.c

Can't help with crossover fitment, as I don't know much about the legacies tbh . As for brand choice well there's quite a few to choose from ,pending on how loud you want it and what your budget is . But generally a straight through center section (without resonators) will unleash a bit more noise from any aftermarket back box . If you already have a aftermarket back box and don't want the expense of a full system .

I currently run the 3"cobra trackday friendly cat back which doesn't drone on the carriageway but still gives that boxer burble. You could just fit the cobra trackday friendly rear box to your existing centre section to drop noise levels . Or Haywood and Scott do a few scooby systems/back boxes that are quieter

Oil brand wise I always use millers oil grade wise the subject is normally a can of worms tbh lol . If there's anything in the s/h saying what grade it's been running on previously I'd stick with that . Otherwise Standard bug onwards most use 5w30 and for classics 10 w 40 . Being forged I'd probably suggest 10 w 40 ,as most forged pistons run looser clearances and the slightly thicker oil will protect the bores /pistons until up to temp and the clearances close up a bit .

Took a few pics that you asked for via pm but its eaiser to post multiple photos on here . Didn't want to remove my fuse box tbh as it and the wiring is 26 years old and I don't want to disturb it lol . Only heavier gauge white wires I can see in that area go to the alternator ,one in the 3 pin plug and 2 attached to the alternator bolt . Couldn't see any completely white wires going to the fan either , they're all the same gauge wire and the wires that have white also have light blue or turquoise on them too . Secondary fan (passenger side) plug wire colour un attached on mine ... main fan (drivers side ) plug Hopefully it's clear enough and of some use , let me know if you need any more pics and I'll try to get some between the rain showers

if its running ok there's probably no point disturbing it but if its got a bit of hesitation its certainly cheaper than just buying a new maf

Ye ha 🤠 cowboy nascar geo settings ?

I haven't ever traced the fan wire plugs back , so couldn't tell you if one comes directly from the fuse box . Its fairly obvious which fan plug goes to which fan on the oe loom due to their location on the lower cross member. Its raining atm but I can take some better pics tomorrow, for now here's a couple I have already on my phone . Let me know if you need anymore ,fella

Darren @ abw does a lot of lightweight parts for gc8's, so if nothing turns up second hand he might be worth trying

Normally the one on the drivers side is for coolant and the one on passenger side is for aircon . I personally only run the drivers side one without any issues on a road car , due to removing the aircon and needing the space on the passenger side in front of the rad for my reversed inlet pipework

I normally use brake cleaner , just don't physically touch the element wire (very fragile) and make sure the cleaner has completely evaporated, before refitting 😉

480 total running in miles done and 160 miles since changing to the oe stat .... Still no leaks or coolant loss 🥳 Started feeding the low boost target in further up the rev range but I've only kept a low 0.65 target whilst running in. So I'm now using most of the throttle and rev range ,as the engine has loosened up nicely. I have a afr gauge and can monitor knock but the afr is a little rich , increased displacement (now a 2.13) and more aggressive cams will mean the map definitely needs tweaking before adjusting the boost anymore. The ally rad I got from Asperformance seems to have reduced the max coolant temperature by 5°, doing the same journey in the same conditions but I still haven't been stuck stationary in traffic yet (so can't comment on all round performance yet ) So I'm booked in at clive attowes next friday 😊

Took out the aftermarket "high flow stat " and took a couple of pics to compare it a oe stat shape and bore size . Surprisingly the one on the right is supposed to increase "flow" and the one on the left is oe . The oe one has more movement on the diaphragm and a bigger bore plunger, so to me it looks like the aftermarket one is more restrictive and would probably only increase pressure 🙄 This is to try and explain why I always use a stationary heat cycle process when running engines in , although a lot of "professional engine builders " dont . So I always use a magnetic sump plug to catch any small metal particles floating in the oil and after a few stationary cycles with mineral oil.... You can see the sump plug has a small amount of metal attached to it , from the honing burs and bearing coatings at first start up (normal) . This is after 250 miles at 55% and 0.6 bar max , hardly any metal particles on the plug So the first start metal particles are not running around the oilways during the running in period 😉 I've only done 30 miles on the new oe stat and fresh running in millers but so far ... no issues 🤞

Over in the states they have a lot more companies that offer sub £1k turbo options and it annoys me that they seem to have a heavy "scooby turbo tax " over here . Hence why I gave the arashi a try 😉 The arashi comes with numerous strength springs and I'd fitted a 1.2 bar one that was too strong (possibly with too much pre tension) . So had to rush fit a 0.6 bar spring on the dyno , unfortunately I fitted this (in a hurry) and without enough pre tension . Meaning that we couldn't set the boost any higher than just under 1.3 bar . So in short ,nothing wrong with the turbo or actuator, just me not fitting the spring correctly 🤐🙄😂 I'm going to fit a 0.8 bar spring , slightly over standard but not too strong, to allow the boost solenoid to control it eaiser 😉

When fitting a aftermarket silicone intake it can cause a bit of "hunting " on idle on a newage . Not definitely but can ,so thought I'd mention it . I had some viper hoses on my old 3ltr omega engined vectra b and was happy with the quality. Otherwise give Alyn @asperformance a bell , he will advise you on the best option ,tell you if it will cause hunting and supply stuff cheaper than most .

First 250 miles done and I'm enjoying the commute to work 😎 Although it does keep distracting me whilst I'm working on the scaffolding 😊 still seem to have a coolant pressure issue though ,as its started weaping elsewhere now 🙄 . Only thing I can put it down to is the high flow stat I fitted 🤔 After looking at pictures of the "high flow stat " and comparing it to a standard stat , It actually looks like it might actually restrict flow . So I've bought a oe stat to replace it , hopefully that will resolve the either restriction or increase in flow 🤞

If it's off the same year then it should fit as all classic to at least hawk ,single scroll turbos have the same size intake . If you ask Jacob at jdm solutions Suffolk, he'll probably be able to confirm if it fits your version scooby bud 😉