savage bulldogs

Still not 100% convinced that is was the walbro at fault and I won't find out until it's on the rollers again . I have to work 6 day weeks to try to keep up with my workload at the moment ,so can't even book a date yet :-( As for the scoob she's not that pretty close up with it's bubbly arches lol after all it's a 17 yr old uk car ,hopefully solved by the future cleaner jdm reshell. Dunno about nearly there but ,I'm hoping that once running right I'll be happy enough with the power ..... well until I can afford a bigger turbo next year

Done 100 miles or so and the new pagid pads all round and rear 2 pots have made a world of difference as it's not squirming under heavy braking and stops much quicker . I have been running 6 mm spacers as I found my speedline chronos wouldn't fit over my upgraded brakes . so I stole some rotas off my brvs classic which we'll be braking at the end of next month 🙂 Pics not the best quality but here's one with the rotas fitted the offset is much wider so I don't need the spacers anymore and their not actually black more gunmetal (dark grey metalic) I'm still not 100% sure if I like them more than the speedlines but if I do keep the rotas I think I might fit a black scoop and mabye some tinted crystal head lights to keep up with the black n silver theme .

I was always lead to believe that n/a engines needed a certain amount of back pressure to work at their best . I've even seen a few tdo4 powered scoobs lose torque with a 3" decat and cone . will be interested in the out come as I haven't tried any back to back tests with induction .As I didn't want to open up my turbo'd scoob when I fitted a cone filter until it was" mapped in" , but I have experienced a lack in back pressure causing a loss in power with a n/a engine

Popped round my brvs to nick his rad cover off his classic while he was on holiday :-D Got busted cos he doesn't leave until tonight and said I have to wait until we start to brake it next month :-( Didn't leave empty handed though as I ended up swopping my speedline chronos for his rotas :-) dunno what version of rota they are but ,the offset is better so I don't have to use spacers anymore cos they fit over my new brakes :-)

Welcome to the club matt nice to see a early classic being restored rather than broken , best of luck with your project bud

Coming along nicely fella ;-) Are you going to paint anything else header tank , aux belt cover ect ?

Stanton tlag was right it's a gauge for a fpr ;-) Tbo I don't really use it as my 550cc injectors are nowhere near maxed so im still running standard fuel pressure. Pete thanks for that link bud as you said worth a punt for a score :-) Nevell thanks for the comments , I never intended on painting anything when I built the engine. I got bored waiting for the engineer to finish the machine work and picked up the powder coated inlet for £30 (bargain) which made everything else look "a bit ropey" and it sort of snowballed from there :-D

They do look nice but , I only do 3k a year in the scoob and recon it would let to much rain in while it's sat on the drive . Do like the rad cover on yours :-) think I might rob the one off my brvs classic while he's on holiday :-D

I did think about fitting a sport bonnet ( for added stealth) but like seeing the scoop to much .plus it does help with cooling under bonnet temps so I might just fit some tight weave mesh under the scoop to stop some of the !Removed! . It's mainly the fmic pipework that gets water stained and autosol doesn't stop that :-( Here's a pick of mine anyways ;-)

Always fancied a alfa as my mum used to own a 16 alfasud fairly sure it was flat opposing engine (similar to the boxer engine) and it went really well for a 1.6 . I used to own a 3ltr 24v vectra (dropped a omega engine in it ) before the scoob .used to pull well on the carriage way made a lovely roar from the v6 with the remus cat back and induction filter . anyways looks like you're alfas well looked after ,nice work fella What sort of power is she running ?

Nice clean looking wagon you've got there fella :-) and a bargain for 400 notes ;-)

Not sure if they look different tbo as its a different angle have you tried to find the part numbers of them (or samco ect ) to see if they're the same ? First pre remap engine mods I did were... resonator delete removed the box off the intake under the wing allowing more air in k&n pannel filter cobra bell mouth sports cat and sti tmic as you don't need a map for those but , when you do map there's more to be gained ;-) here's a pic of my old v3/v4 sti tmic showing the ally hard pipe and reinforced turbo outlet hose that comes as standard on the sti's

Looks like a v3/v4 engine to me (defo v3/v4 tmic ) Why not upgrade to a v3 / v4 sti tmic cos they have a better flow and a stronger bigger "y " pipe . here's a pic of my v3 inlet fliped round so you can see the recirc valve with the pipe to tmic still attached As for knowing a bit about v4 and older scoobs it's a shame , cos my mrs thinks it's usless info ... well unless she smokes another car on the way back from tescos :-D

Yeah my uk turbo didn't have air con for some reason they didn't think we needed it in the uk lol . if the tmic and coil pack are in the same position then it must be v3/v4 as the v1/v2 (which are both the same) had the slanty type tmic

V3/v4 are the same under the bonnet bud here's a pic of mine (before the mods ) Coil pack in the center of the inlet and recirc valve is attached to the black pipe coming of the top of tmic v5/v6 are the same under the bonnet they have coilpack ofset on the inlet and recirculation valve directly fitted to the tmic

I used auto glym machine cleaner when stripping my engine down and used a dremmel with a light wire brush /autosol on the ally . Could do with something to keep it clean as having a scoop with no tmic just seems to blow !Removed! on yer shiny bits :-( Pete does that protector stuff keep ally clean as well ? Nice work on the bays as well fellas

Probably not worth the extra £200 imo , unless your aiming over 400hp or running higher than standard fuel pressure . You can mod the oe set up to parallel's cheaper but, I didn't fancy doing that it in case it leaked cos I didn't seal something properly . the idea is to reduce the chance of fuel starvation to the last injector in the oe "series" fuel rail set up under high load . converting them to parallel's gives the injectors a more even pressure through out . If I did it I'd probably buy new top feed rails and good quality fittings , like tlag is doing

I'd give import car parts a bell rather than looking on their site as not everythings listed (I couldn't find any on there ) If all else fails (and its compatible) I've got one on my old 97 uk 5 speed box but ,I wouldn't be able to get it in the post till Wednesday evening have you checked the connection on the black and white plugs next to the clutch slave .they connect the reverse switch to the loom and the earth to the gearbox "dog bone " mount under the tmic

Yeah if it's the same as mine it's preface fella . stanton that was only for wrxs I'm afraid I bookmark random pages I stumble across while researching for my mods . Not that I believe everything I read on the net , even that wrx info is a bit inaccurate as the really early wrxs and sti's had 380cc injectors as standard and I've never heard of 470cc injectors in a scoob ;-) Did find a random ecu write up for classics that was interesting today lol http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/stock-ecu-discussion/53009-stock-sti-gc8-engine-control-unit-numbers-specs.html

It's a heat shield to stop the heat from the exhaust manifold escaping into the engine bay . They're a pain to get off due to usually being rusty but , can be replaced with exhaust heat wrap if needed

Did you get any codes come up when you did a check , if you don't know how to code check on a classic there's a link on here (somwhere lol) As it's worth checking before you buy any parts;-)

£50 each there both in good order as they came off my own car . sti tmic made 296 hp on my new engine turbo made 284 hp @1.2 Bar on my old uk turbo engine .

I've got a tdo4 and a sti 97/98 tmic but , im unsure if I've still got the actuator (can have a look tomorrow if you're interested) . I'm based in south east suffolk let me know if I'm close enough and I'll chuck some pics n prices up ;-)

The remaps I've had done in the uk the mapper live maps whilst you drive and im unsure how much info the esl software gives (whether it gives egt , afr and knock ) but they always use a probe in the exhaust the, lap top and det cans wired to the inlet . Don't mean to sound critical of what you do just curious to the differences . scooby clinic seem to offer a wider range over here sc 36 to sc50 (in about 7 stages ) and lateral performance have the franchise for the turbo dynamics md series turbos (billet garret based units) . Unsure about kamak turbos as most are journal bearing based on the td series mitsubishi turbo's . I'm only put off by the lack of proven power / reviews and that they don't spool as quickly and garret roller bearing based turbo's.

I did the same ( tightest setting ) running on elbaich pro's quite happy with the set up as is tbo just wondered if their was any noticeable difference between the settings as id prefer just a tiny bit more oversteer if it could be gained