savage bulldogs

If it's a electrical or fuelling missfire, you'd normally get a eml light or code stored . So maybe get the ECU codes checked before chucking parts at it . But unfortunately it does sound like early symptoms of headgasket and the 2.5 ltr block is the most common to fail . Subaru's hardly ever mix oil and water , like most inline or "V" engines. They tend to start to push combustion gasses into the coolant on boost at first then start to burn coolant as the gasket wrap gets worse . Best way to check if you're getting the beginning of h.g failure symptoms, is to get a hydrocarbon coolant sniff test done (as suggested above ) Best of luck and hopefully its something less expensive, like a cracked rad or failing coolant pipe .

Had a few more moisture trapped bubbles appear on the roof line and rear 1/4 , that was originally painted nearly 4 years ago (not the side that was repainted a couple of years back ) 😏 I bumped into Rick Kerry (ex bttc driver) that owns Ipswich accident repair at a local retro car meet and sheepishly pointed out the gremlins back near the roof gutter and a few pin pricks near the rear arch 🤔 "That big blister is definitely moisture again , so I'll repaint it under guarantee for free but if those tiny pin pricks on the arch are rust ... it would make sense to cut it out and replace the affected areas " Tbh I didn't expect to see any rust , as it's quite clean underneath but he sent me this pic "mid hack" . Even the inner arch had a little bit, so that was cut out after this pic and replaced with fresh metal too . So just I paid for the rust repair and asked him to paint the faded rear door trims satin black , as they had shiny silver showing through since I bought it nearly 10 years ago . Yet again I'm happy with the finish and gobsmacked at his outstanding customer service, 🤩 Hopefully it will stay rust n bubble free for a few years to come now 😎

I used second hand newage wrx coilpacks for my conversion and they've been fine for 50k ish miles. Could post a pic of the loom plug (coilpack end) to make sure it looks like stock newage fitment but otherwise any breaker will probably have a set for around £60 posted .

Speak to Martyn at enginetuner Ltd in Plymouth, I'm sure he'd be able to help

Quite rare to see a Arcadia green uk car , let alone with low mileage 👍 I started off the a 97uk , unfortunately , although it was clean on top the rear inner arches and strut tops disintegrated within 3 years 😥 Looks quite tidy , especially for a uk 😎

You might find a local subaru specialist that could arrange a vechical check ,or I think the likes of rac or AA do vechical checks .

Looks like a nice base to start from , not many left in that colour either . Think I might have seen the car before, as I'm on the south Suffolk coast (so fairly local to lakenheath) . Mines a 94 and the headlights were shocking to start off with, "Osram nightbreakers " bulbs have definitely improved things but I've had the same bulbs for 8 years . So couldn't tell you if there's better options available now . If the oil leak is giving a burning smell after a spirited drive ? Probably drivers side cam cover and half moons, as these see a lot of heat cycles being so close to the uppipe on that side . All the best with it

Hi n welcome, feel free to add some pics 😉 ask any questions in the relevant topic section or even start a build thread to log your progress. I like to get my kids involved with scooby stuff too 😎 Best of luck to you both with the project 👍

I know the ally arms are a straight swap (with cones and droplinks) from uk wrx steel to jdm wrx /sti , without changing the arb . Not sure on the n/a ,as I think theres a few differences in the rear arb mounts between n/a and turbo versions. So could well be a difference on the front fitment too . Could try finding a replacement arb part number for your n/a and cross reference it with wrx sti versions, to see if it's the same .

Haven't been on here for a while , so just caught up with this , lovin the oily bits 😍 Those heads look like they will flow nicely too 🙂

Some of my non classic spec is a bit sketchy but I believe the Prodrive Performance pack on a bug /blob wrx should have a certificate, blue tmic to turbo Y pipe , sports cat ,or maybe just the pre cat removed from the up pipe (like in sti's ) and possibly a sticker on the ECU (or some sort of prodrive identification serial number). I believe the in tank pump is different but don't know what markings it should have on it , unfortunately. As for straight swapping from a tdo4 (290 max hp ) to a vf35 (360 max hp) without a remap would be a bit risky imo . As the vf35 would flow quite a bit more air at the same boost pressure. The maf , map and o2 feedback to the ECU might pull things in check a bit on the stock ECU boost pressure but it more likely just fuel cut and pull timing. Because of the different rpm boost threshold (spool point ) and increase in flow .... Or worse still could melt something. The stock 2ltr wrx blue injectors are good for around 330hp , pending on supporting mods. So with just a new pump (just to be safe) and a remap ,you should see around 320 to 330 hp without stressing anything too much . If its really a case of get you out of trouble and the car moving for a couple of weeks until the remap ? You could set up "actuated boost" by by passing the boost control system and running at wastegate spring pressure but even then I'd want it to go on a dyno pull before using boost . These engines don't really like changes in airflow without being mapped tbh .

Yeah there's a link bluetooth adapter but it still has to be wired into canbus on the link g4x tbh for monitoring only that would've worked fine . I might try to can latch a few switches (hi /low boost ,antilag) on the touchscreen screen eventually so wanted a hard wired connection..... don't suddenly want the anti lag on if bluetooth connection goes haywire on my cheap headunit . Tbh I didn't have a android bluetooth headunit in the bug sti , so haven't bought a odb 2 to bluetooth adapter myself . .... I had to do it the hard way in my 28 year old thing . You'd have to Google it along with torque and realdash apps to see what people say works well bud

Think a few use tablets and a windows based system with aftermarket ecus but I liked the fact it's a bluetooth headunit as well , for hands free ect . Tbh in a bug onwards all you need is a bluetooth android headunit, torque , or realdash app and a obd2 bluetooth adapter. Then you can get this up n running but classics are odb1 and linkg4x usb isn't compatible atm . Not sure on syvecs compatibility but it works from p.c software to android software and 2001 onwards obd2 Subaru ecus (through bluetooth adapter)

Well I've been manic but haven't done anything to the scoob for ages , other than wash it and enjoy it . The old skool alpine headunit had started play up ,Once I actually started to investigate why it wasn't working properly .... I soon found that 2 of the speakers were fubar too 🙄 I've always missed the old apexi hand controller and being able to see a few more ECU parameters on the fly but I'm far too tight to buy s toucan monitor (£500+) . So after a bit of research , I found a android app that will work with the link ECU and started to look at cheap compatible headunits . Finally decided on a (£145) extrons headunit , as a few people have given them good reviews for the price range and managed to get them to work with the realdash app . Along with Some new front n rear vibe slick speakers . Next up was the fact that the g4x usb output isn't compatible with a "dash " input , so the connection needs to be linkg4x canbus , to canbus converter then to android usb input ....so no plug n play for me today 🙃 Martyn at enginetuner was nice enough to supply me another canbus plug and I bought a compatible can analyser for £30 . Wired the analyser to the canbus ,added a ground connection and insulated pigtail. Case removed and pigtail plugged into can 2 header plug . there is quite a few settings to go through on p.c link to set up canbus but I had done the original installation and wideband canbus connection. Now have ecu data streaming to a 7" touchscreen bluetooth headunit for under £200 , speakers not included 😉 There's still a little syncing to do (boost doesn't show ) but temps , throttle position, rpm , afr and a few other streams are working. Nice to have bluetooth too .

Was the replacement turbo "like for like " or was it a upgrade? Did the car get remapped afterwards ? As most mappers recommend a 3 port boost solenoid fitted prior to mapping, as this gives them better control over the boost when mapping. If a 3 port is fitted it has to be "mapped in" and the mappers usually remove most of the stock turbo vacuum lines and run a new simpler system (so you would get a handful back )

I'd measure up the journals and see if they're in factory spec , If so I think a new set of stock shells are under £100 . Would be a shame to spend £1k+ on gaskets and a timing belt kit , just to end up with crank rumble

I've used Clive attowe tuning @ (salthouse rd Norwich) for most of my subaru tuning for around a decade . I know he does do diagnostic tests ,repairs and maintenance too . So he might be able to help , pending on what you need doing ?

As a rule of thumb ECU's (at a worst case scenario) will only loose what they've "learned" from the grade fuel you use , any mods and driving style , when left without power . Stock and aftermarket ECU base maps are stored as a "hard copy" and will stay on the ECU indefinitely (even without a power source), unless the ecu memory is damaged I imagine that esl would preload a base map to the chip to suit your version (cams, injector and turbo size) but that's only a guess. So contacting andy Stevens or esl to check would probably be a better option, just to be sure .

I had a "so called " mapper fit mine into a spare ecu , then fit that into my car on the day . no problem with the esl, just wouldn't want to recommend the mapper but that's another story

On my 97 uk turbo I ran cobra sports cat and v3/v4 sti tmic for around 4k miles without mapping. As at the time the 97 esl wasn't quite ready for use . With both those fitted and once I eventually got the esl fitted n mapped , it brought the power up from 215 hp to 265 hp and a big improvement in throttle response. If you want to be on the safe side you could always go to a local dyno and get a health check done ,once you've fitted the sports cat turbo back . There's a few pics of the route I took with my my 97 uk, in my build thread on here that might help .... Just be careful modding scoobies is a slippery slope and all that remains of my original scooby 10 years on is boot spoiler , a couple of doors and interior plastics 🤐🙄😂😂

Not sure what any of the code numbers are , as I mainly work on the earlier models. I have owned and rebuilt a few 207's though . The previous owner of my old v7sti fitted a aftermarket turbo intake and it caused a hunting idle and slight stutter when "rolling on n off the throttle " . This only went one the intake tract change was mapped in . Avcs is controlled via oil pressure created by the avcs solinoids, these can fail /seize but there is a serviceable "banjo bolt screen" that can become blocked . I'd suggest to inspect the avcs feed banjo bolt filters and replace them . Then see if refitting a oe intake pipe or getting the new intake pipe "mapped in " and see if makes a difference. As the car could possibly be in safe/limp mode , disabling the avcs in the process .

Hi n welcome, looks like its had a fair bit done 😎 The mapper has probably held it back a bit to save the 5 speed , as those mods are capable of around 340hp (pending on the spec of the hybrid tdo5) . Only thing I'd say was unnecessary would be the oil cooler at that level of tune , there really only needed for high hp track cars tbh . Pending on model /year (cars original equipment) I'd probably look into upgrading the brakes , to reign in the extra ponies . Tbh 320 to 330 hp is the ideal sweet spot for classic imprezas, makes for a fast road car but retains a certain amount of reliability regarding engine and box limits . Enjoy and get some pics up 😊

Subaru's are renowned for cutting boost when low on fuel and exiting a corner, due to the fuel sloshing over to the opposite side of the fuel pick up . Or if its doing it with over half a tank or in a straight line , then do you have any unmapped mods (especially airflow mods) ?

It's a v2 jdm wrx , if it was in top condition (once tidied up ) it would probaly fetch around £4k atm . Obviously with any car it depends on mileage, engine ,clutch , bodywork, mot ect . So I'd around £1k to £2.5k pending on condition.

Cheers for the heads up , changed the privacy now 👍 its only a half throttle blip as it was just a sound off , nobody actually won either . Tbh the straight piped shelby cobra got my vote anyways 🤫