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savage bulldogs

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Everything posted by savage bulldogs

  1. Basically once everything that connects the inlet to the block can be unplugged , then the whole inlet with fuel rails, injectors , engine loom ect can be lifted off in one piece. Removed heat shields,to get to the head exhaust outlet studs and took the headers off , then undone the turbo coolant and oil feed /return pipes . Removed the turbo , turbo support brackets and up pipe in one piece too .popped the cambelt covers off to have a peak at the avcs pulley set up before lunchtime .
  2. Ive only spotted the 1 minor oil leak from cylinder 1's spark plug to cam cover gasket and a fairly big leak from either the oil separator plate or rear crank seal (i'll get back to that a bit later ) otherwise it looks like its a 77k fsh lump .
  3. Removed the coolant tank and air con pump , then disconnected all wires from the engine loom to the block and took note of all oil breather pipe routes . Kids old paddling pool has been a life saver , mrs would go skitz if i got oil on the patio lol
  4. Once I'd removed the clutch fork pivot pin, any remaining coolant pipes, vac lines , fuel pipes , gearbox and engine mounting bolts. I took the p.s pump off the block with the p.s lines still attached , so i didn't get oil everywhere or have to refill /re bleed the p.s system . Once the engine was out i removed the new clutch so i could fit the engine onto the engine stand .
  5. The compression test came back ok with 133psi across all cylinders [emoji41] but due to the depth of the heads , all i could see in the bores was the piston sizes ie a or b , which is pretty usless seeing as that info is already stamped on the top of the block[emoji849] Guess i'll have to wait until the heads are off to see bore condition, then [emoji23]
  6. I left it overnight once the Rad and downpipe were disconnected as i wanted to do a compression test and check the bores with a endoscope before removing the engine [emoji6]
  7. It's got a few mods but i intend on keeping it standard as possible due to it only having 77k and 3 owners . B.c coilovers . Strutt brace . Intake pipe . Samco hoses. Rcm lightweight pulleys and flywheel. 3 port boost solenoid. Ecuteked bob rawl map . And deffis ,but they might end up in my v1sti [emoji848] . 800 miles before i bought it the bug had some major maintenance done too . Exedy clutch . Graham goode uprated oil pump. Full oe cambelt kit and new water pump and it came with a bnib oe raditor in the boot [emoji41] Seeing as the bugs sti standard forged avcs engine is capable of 450hp i intend on keeping the build to a fairly standard spec too . Made a start ripping the guts outta the bug Tmic and air box removed
  8. Well as most of you know I've bought another another scooby project , yeah yeah i know i haven't finished the classic project yet [emoji849] i (probably lol ) won't be keeping the bug and definitely won't be selling my 94 sti . So a mate bought a low mileage, with 2 owners and good history 52plate bug wrx sti type uk about 2 yrs ago [emoji41] Unfortunately a previous owner had hidden a mild crank rumble [emoji53] and even after spending a fair bit on maintaining and mapping it's gradually got worse . Although it's a nice clean example, it was probably worth more in bits than whole scoob with a knocky lump . He didn't want to see it broken , so i decided to buy it and rebuild the engine , to save a fairly rare uk bug sti from the scrappy in the sky [emoji41] I've decided to do this thread solely through tapatalk to save me uploading pics to my tablet , so you'll have to bear with the pics being on seperate posts . So heres a couple of pics of the new edition to get started and i'll post more as i go [emoji6]
  9. Thanks , I've enjoyed building it and i managed to keep it in one piece for most of last year , so have actually enjoyed driving it for a change [emoji4] I do have a caddy for work but the v1sti is my daily driver , so it's sometimes a bit of a panic to get it back together in time for the school run monday [emoji849] It is nice knowing you've built a car but you have no one else to blame when things go wrong . Hopefully i'll get round to re uploading the rest if the pics fookubucket has fubar'd but unfortunately for now the v1sti will take a bit of a back seat until the sti bug lump is rebuilt and run in .
  10. I'll be trying to get to more than just japshow and japshow finale this year. Just daren't tempt fate and put my name down on any show threads yet ,as id better wait until the bug sti lump is rebuilt or the v1 sti has had it's respray
  11. It might well be the drivers side for a.c ,tbh i dont even know if duel fans are for a.c . It might just be a jdm hotter weather thing to keep engine temps down . Either way both fans work off the same circuit and i only removed the passenger side one as it was in the way of my reversed inlet pipework. Not because i ripped the a.c out [emoji6]
  12. I've removed the passenger side fan without any issues [emoji6]
  13. Maybe try a switch from a working scoob or bridge the terminals on the hazzard plug , to rule out a faulty switch. Yeah my alternator is where the ac pump should be , probably only use ac for 3 days a year in the uk lol
  14. they're prone to corrosion and fairly easy to remove , you'd probably be better off trying to source a clean 2nd hand one . I'm sure i read that it will pass a mot if it's missing but will fail if it's corroded. Not that I'd want to drive it all the time without one fitted but if you cant source one in time for the mot you might get away with removing it until you find 1
  15. Lol what you after . I've been investigated by the tax man and even though i didnt do anything (just randomly selected) it still stressed me out. So im one of the few that declare everything anyways but i could definitely run both businesses, as I've been self employed 17 yrs
  16. Cheers chaps , eventually I'm hoping to move somewhere and build a workshop , so i can give up plastering and do something scooby for a living . As staring at a wall for a living pays ok but doesn't exactly stimulate the grey matter [emoji849] I've only just started to re upload my classic build thread pics , since fookubucket decided to hold hosting to ransom [emoji45] Might get round to doing a bug thread , suppose it would save me spamming this one [emoji849] might even give the new owner piece of mind seeing the builds been done properly, too
  17. Bores ,block journals and crank visually look fine but I'll measure everything myself , then get the engineer the double check everything and (hopefully) just hone the bores . I'm gonna throw the crank anyways, as I'm definitely fitting new crank , race bearings and new rings as a bear minimum [emoji6]
  18. Stripped and split the block halves [emoji4] Found the cause of the rumble ..... and as i thought,goosed main bearings [emoji849]
  19. There's at least 3 different types of fuel pump / tank sender assembly but The likes of rcm , walbro ect all list 1 type of pump that fits in the classic fuel pump "cradle" So any aftermarket/oe classic pump will fit in your cradle , so you could try fitting the red labels pump into your cradle . But I'd suggest to use a new pump in your cradle as you don't want to lean off on boost due to a faulty pump [emoji6]
  20. Cheers , i took quite a few pics but I'm still trying to decide whether i should start another build thread [emoji848] ? Especially as i haven't got anywhere near finishing my classic project yet [emoji849]
  21. Well that wasn't too bad [emoji4] It's now in kitchen table sized chunks , so at least i can work in the warm close to the kettle [emoji23]🤣
  22. Busy morning trying to get the block stripped before the artic blast gets hold of the east coast [emoji849] Crash course in avcs heads after lunch lol
  23. Nice work , works out quite cheap for a set of newage sti wheels too [emoji106] they're "speedline course " 18's i gave em a google after you posted and they're £1k new [emoji44]
  24. Heat 6's are what most use in stock scoobs and generally, heat 7's in mapped with bolt ons . If your running over stock boost tighten the gap a little to 0.65mm, to lessen the chance of spark being blown out by boost . Otherwise i think they're 0.7mm outta the box Check your coilpack insluation and wires for cracks , seeing as you have a minor misfire [emoji6]
  25. Cheers , center caps are a bit faded but the wheels are fairly mint otherwise , the mate i bought the bug off said they were fairly rare ? Not that it matters , cos they do suit the car well imo
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