savage bulldogs

Best of luck with the remap , hope you get the figures your after bud Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah id love a plate with "v1 sti " in it and wish mine was still standard . But if i hadn't have bought the shell of my brv and fitted the engine and 6 speed out of my rusty uk turbo .... build number 19 /100 may 94 would've been scrapped Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Don't forget to remove the clutch fork pivot pin and best of luck with the rebuild , bud Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

These cars do tend to get under your skin [emoji16] Im on the south suffolk coast, where abouts are you based , Ben ? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Nice choice chap [emoji106] Keep thinking about getting a plate for mine , but i seem to keep finding other things to spend my spare cash on atm [emoji53] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Sounds about right to me , although I've never paid anyone to fit a clutch tbh Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Sorry to hear about the loss of your leg , bud . But glad to hear it hasn't dampened you thirst for a impreza . As i said via pm , the classic autos are more common in wagons although i have seen a couple of auto saloons. My legacy spec isnt the best but afaik most turbo auto variants are twin turbo semi autos . I dare say that the semi auto box and twin turbo set up will physically fit into a impreza . The wiring and complicated twin turbo vac line set up would make it a lot more difficult to do a conversion. A impreza classic wagon however, has the same floor pan as a saloon, so box , loom , ecu , linkage , pedals ect will swap straight over into a saloon from a donor auto wagon . I did help someone with the same info a few years back , similar circumstances to yourself but he'd lost his leg in a bike accident and wanted to convert his p1 to auto . As he couldn't bare to sell it , so it's definitely do able [emoji106] Unfortunately i dont know what the power limits are of the impreza auto box but theres a member on here with a blobeye saloon wrx auto . he's having a remap soon ,So he might be able to shed some light on it ? All the best with the op and project, keep us posted too , bud . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

The chassis/vin number is stamped on the top of bulk head above the clutch fluid reservoir. The silver id plate has.... model , trim , option , engine and gearbox codes. Basically everything needed to identify what parts are fitted to the chassis from the factory [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Normally by the time the base map is on and idle is set the engines fairly warm anyways but it is possible to get a steady idle when not mapping from cold . As its a hr drive to my mapper and i don't have any hunting issues . Don't get me wrong , I'm not starting a "my mappers better than yours" thread but just pointing out that a slight weap from a injector seal would change the afr . Any mapper would probably map around the fault as its not a obvious fault (especially if your injectors are new or recently cleaned/checked). A proppa "smoke test" would be the best option to find any leaks in vac and intake pipework [emoji6] Removal and cleaning the idle control valve could be worth a try , although if it idled fine on the old 380's i doubt it's the issue . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If the idle was set up with a leaky injector seal, it's possible that it could just need a tweek to get the idle right now the fault is fixed ? Hunting can be caused by vac , intake or y pipe air leaks too . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

No more ginger (rusty) nuts and a T shirt for Christmas [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

When i reshelled the rusty v3 uk into my v1 sti shell the cradles were different, so i had to swap my nearly new rcm pump into the v1 cradle . Couldn't tell you what the differences between them were or whether it can be made to work but i found it eaiser to use the v1 cradle in the v1 tank / car Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

My v1 has the same preface jdm dash with oe lamco sti gauges . I think most use those or delete the center air vents and mount them there . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If you do find a intake / boost leak and have to drive it again , get it ecutek mapped or put it back to standard downpipe and tmic . If the fuelling is lean under boost the engine will eat itself and cost a lot more than a £600 licence and remap Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If the boost gauge is reading correctly, its probably running the standard map . As I've never seen someone go to the expense of getting a car mapped and not having the boost limit raised? With those breathing mods and a standard map , the ecu would struggle to compensate the fuelling and timing adjustments needed to reach the o2 sensors targets . Both that and a unmetered volume of air entering the engine (ie intake/boost leak) can confuse the maf , map and o2 sensor readings and flag a code Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Check all the intake pipework joins from air filter to turbo ,then from turbo to fmic core and core to throttle body. If you pop a boost or intake hose it will loose all power , stall and not start Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

What year is it .any mods or recent work done Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

We did have someone ask about this before , i put a few pics up of the route my break lines take ,As my v1sti doesn't have abs as standard . Unsure if you'd need a new master cylinder or just re route the lines . You could try giving Alyn at asperformance a bell in the new year as I'm sure he'd probably come across the question before . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

You'd probably be better off getting a quote from a local powder coaters for the blasting and painting . Luckily my old 4 pots had been used as a "test set" and had been blasted and painted fairly recently . So i just did a colour change on fresh paint myself . I bought my uprated stainless steel pistons and seals from Ian at Godspeed to refurb them with . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

A few people have asked me this lately , so here's my (long winded) opinion [emoji848] I think most "mainstream tuners" say it's not worth the gains to their customers and i agree . With off the shelf reverse inlets costing over a grand , alternator relocation , intake pipework re direction , materials and labour. it's probably cheaper to buy a bigger turbo and push more boost through it . I found a tatty second hand phase 1 reverse inlet "kit" for £100 , so it only cost me about £250 including paint and pipework [emoji6] Can i feel any gains ? Don't know ,tbh [emoji23] ive had various map tweeks, mods and even a reshell since building the engine and fitting it to my old v3 uk . But after a long drive i can now easily keep my hand on the fmic pipework just before the throttle body , without burning my hands like i used too . Anything that helps lessen heatsoak and gives less bends in less pipework, logically makes sense to me [emoji851][emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Couldn't believe that it all came from a bird tbh[emoji848] ..... spoiler, boot, rear screen , rear quarter, bumper and rear wheel all covered in one "foul swoop" [emoji849] Lucky enough i hadn't even had time to put the hose pipe away before it happened Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Chucked a sponge at it for the last time this year , shame a albatross shat on the whole driver's side rear end before id even finished [emoji849] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I used to run the stock pcv set up on my old uk and currently run a catch can , so have no stock oil breather system in situ . I couldn't say if a faulty pcv would cause the oil to break down sooner but if it seized in the shut position , id imagine it would cause exessive crankcase oil pressure . Oil grade threads are normally a can of worms on any forum and although i doubt a change in brand of oil would hurt , it would probably be nice to know where the oil is going before filling up with £60 's worth of millers . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Dare say they left the recirc on to save blanking the recirc air return pipework that goes to the intake tract . Lazy but still effective [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah the classic tank has a hump in the middle to clear the diff underneath , so hard right hand corners can cause fuel slosh and cause fuel cut . You can fit a swirl pot and 2nd "lift" pump or.. just dont give it beans round a right hander with less than half a tank [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk