savage bulldogs

I only had esl on my v3 uk , so unsure if the v1/v2 is the same but i had switchable maps . When i disconnected the ecu it automatically switched to map 1 , had to depress the throttle to the floor then turn ignition on to switch back to map 2 . Bit of a long shot that it has switchable maps or that if it has , that map2 is useless . No one local got a standard ecu to try to rule out a fried ecu . Fuel pressure reg vac line ok? , a very weak fuel pressure might cause it to fuel cut /cut spark . Can't think of much else atm , hopefully it's something simple and not lack of compression. I assume if you've got a copy of the service manual, have you checked everything electrical it says to check regarding no spark when turning it over?

Aftermarket alarm ? Igniter plug /wiring ok ? Its Behind the boost solenoid bracket and controls spark . Coilpack wiring insluation damaged ? As the two wires inside the black sleeving can arc together even though the black outer sleeveing looks intact .

Oh and i mentioned the crank cos theres 3 or 4 marks on the crank sprocket , so easy mistake to over look and might cut spark after a engine rotation . If it senses a timing mark difference between cam and crank (like mr b said earlier)

Engine loom plugs and engine loom earths free from corrosion and making a good connection? Still getting power to the ecu when it stops firing?

Cheers chap , although it doesn't look quite as shiney under the bonnet now ,as it did when i bought the parallel conversion 18 months ago and took that pic [emoji52] But hey , the engines nearly done 30k since i first built it and only has a very slight weap from the underside of drivers side cam cover .

Can you hear the fuel pump priming? Have you definitely got the right crank position ? Woodruff key in the crank facing downwards

By the looks of the 1st pic in my last post , for almost 18months I've been searching for a fuel safe suitable tighter 90° bend[emoji52] Hopefully this "racinglines" banjo bolt that fits directly into the end of the cdf rails will be the solution , just need better weather to give it a try . Looks like a well made bit of kit too [emoji41]

Well wheelnuts were shockingly bad quality but a full refund (inc return postage) hasn't left me outta pocket , just still got ginger nuts [emoji849] On a positive note i think i have finally found the fitting i need to fit the parallel fuel lines, billet rails and fpr i bought ages ago 🤞 Due to "clocking" the coldside of the sr40 turbo i didn't have the clearance to use the normal 90° an6 fittings to connect the fuel lines to the billet rails [emoji848]

Scoobys do love the snow , nom nom [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Sorry for the late reply Rick but after finding out the wheelnuts i bought from d2 uk were not fit for purpose , stripped the thread on 3 outta the first 8 i tried fit [emoji53] Then my youngest stealing the laptop for 3 days [emoji849] its the first chance ive had to look at my wiring diagrams. I haven't had any issues with my indicators or hazards , so can't really help from experience or even tell you if the hazzards and indicators run off the same relay / fuse . I did take these , dunno if they're any good to ya though [emoji848] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah pretty much everything bar rear tailgate and rear lights is swappable from classic saloons to wagons . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

All good thanks, fella [emoji41] I'll have a squint a bit later for some info on hazzard lights , do you have a multi meter ? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Might be worth checking any associated switches and connections from the gearstick that tells the ecu what position the gearstick is in . As it sounds like a iffy connection somewhere to me , bud Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Thats what i meant for you to check But when i read it back it looked a bit like i was asking if you if knew how to drive a auto [emoji4] You've had it over a year now ain't ya , bud , so hopefully you've got the hang of it by now [emoji23] Glad it was a simple fault and nothing expensive [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I've got a sticky build thread in the tech section, did have loads of pics but photobucket fubar'd that [emoji850] I've kept the cost downa fair bit by doing everything myself bar mapping and suspension geometry . There was a few round it at japshow finale but I've normally got the bonnet up at shows , it takes the attention of the 24yr old paintwork [emoji849] It's currently got a v3 front end but I've got the preface ally bonnet and lights to go back on before a respray , hopefully in the spring before show season . A mate sold a v3 type r in yellow last year that was bog standard he'd imported himself 10 yrs ago and git his money back .As theres always a market for standard classics [emoji41] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Fingers crossed for fob then, fella Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I dare say any plate with sti would cost a bit but tbh I've never even looked at the costing of private plates . (Just know I'd like 1) Yeah it's worth more than it's cost me to build , not that I'd probably ever sell it anyways . I have seen 20 or so v1sti's and acropolis rally versions but unfortunately i haven't seen 1 with a earlier build date than mine yet . Hope there's earlier standard ones out there , as I'd hate to think I've modded the earliest one to death [emoji848]. Yours is quite a good spec car , being the first of the type r's and having the v3sti aggressive cams [emoji41] Mine does look fairly standard on the outside it's the bay that's a bit errm ...... un oe [emoji849] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I know the cylinder head chambers are 46cc on v1 heads but i dont know the piston crown bowl size on the wrx pistons . Ideally you'd need the average "deck height" once rebuilt and make allowances for a block /head skim (if it needs doing). If its just a oe spec rebuild luke at import car parts will probably be able to tell you what size headgasket you need by reg or engine number . Stretch to the cost of a set of "stopper gaskets " if posible [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Classics have a "fusable link " in the underbonnet fuse box . Its basically a piece of wire with a spade connection on either end that acts as a fuse for the starter motor . Dunno if blobs have em but i thought it would be worth mentioning. Its not anything to do with the auto box ( ie wont start in park or drive ) Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Ahh ,im in east Anglia myself , think there's a few members closer though . if you've not owned a turbo scooby before , theres a few things you must do ... Firstly , wave at other scoobs [emoji4] warm it up before using boost and cool it down ,after after giving it the beans, before you turn it off .make sure you do Regular quality oil changes and get any breathing mods "mapped in" . they don't like decats , induction kits changing airflow without being mapped [emoji6] Get yourself a shell v power card [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Best of luck with the remap , hope you get the figures your after bud Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah id love a plate with "v1 sti " in it and wish mine was still standard . But if i hadn't have bought the shell of my brv and fitted the engine and 6 speed out of my rusty uk turbo .... build number 19 /100 may 94 would've been scrapped Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Don't forget to remove the clutch fork pivot pin and best of luck with the rebuild , bud Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

These cars do tend to get under your skin [emoji16] Im on the south suffolk coast, where abouts are you based , Ben ? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Nice choice chap [emoji106] Keep thinking about getting a plate for mine , but i seem to keep finding other things to spend my spare cash on atm [emoji53] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk