-
Posts
2,110 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
149
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Premium Membership Discounts
Subaru Videos
Subaru News
Everything posted by Mr B
-
https://importcarparts.co.uk/contact
-
Banjo mesh filter blocked/restricted what normally kill the turbo . physically check turbo and if need replacement easy enough find one used for under £100 . Do check oil lines as failure to do so could result in killing the replacement . Turbo cars need frequent oil/filter changes and decent quality too ...
-
either blanking plates and remap or simply replace the valves if prove to be junk (don't use a main dealer) . editing ecu rom only really worth it if intending gain more than just few code removals .
-
Car won't start injector problem please help
Mr B replied to cornish6544's topic in Subaru Impreza Club
If one injector stuck open/leaking the plug for that cylinder will be swamping wet . I can do a relative balance test between injectors to see they all flow closely thus detect faults but does require specialist tools .You could also use stethoscope to try and detect the injectors clicking all the same and logically correct when cranked .- 6 replies
-
- wont start
- gc8
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Lower control arm failure - looking for new ones
Mr B replied to SubaruBlack's topic in Subaru Forester Club
Glad here job jobbed. Hope you enjoying your fozzy again & repair worked out well with parts/cost ... -
It should start car if use pin code turn alarm off or other fob from distance (don't want that transponder near steering switch) . Not that common for transponder chip (scan key) play up but would be wise check it starts car fine before proceeding . button fault on the fob board is quite common though, I get at least 2 fob issues a month from the sigma alarms. pretty simple swap parts and program in new fob. alarm guide below that maybe helpful . https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ
-
Yes transponder is packed into housing that holds the blade. Swapping board and programming new remote is easy and workable option. Option 2 is sending your key off for button be replaced on the board, is a few services for this via post at about £20 + or - couple quid ...
-
its the link for the headlight levelling sensor ...
-
If it was smoking as much as you say from my experience you would see evidence of a leak easily either in plug and piston crown colour, coolant loss, gas analyser sniff test or combination of these. easy enough do a relative compression check and takes 5 minutes, good comp test with transducer pressure sensor can tell you a lot but not quickest to do on a subaru. Wouldn't worry about rest of engine if passes few basic tests but as always it can be bit of gamble. Shame trader made a mess of diagnosis :-/ really not that hard to of drawn some better conclusion than he did ! . Don't buy a Citroen lol, that just total stupidity .
-
Lower control arm failure - looking for new ones
Mr B replied to SubaruBlack's topic in Subaru Forester Club
you normally would split BJ at arm so prety normal for it come without. You will HAve BJ's on car which may be good enough reuse (inverted design like subaru use see's BJ's can last well over 130K . If need replacing then Moog and 555Japan about the best from my experience and not expensive over the monkey metal crap in pattern part market these days . -
Lower control arm failure - looking for new ones
Mr B replied to SubaruBlack's topic in Subaru Forester Club
Put an offer in on these for £70 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI-NEWAGE-PAIR-OF-ALLOY-FRONT-WISHBONES-/292239538021?hash=item440ad57765:g:dCkAAOSwpkFY8h66 Get a proper alignment from a good shop after fitting . job jobbed -
A better alternative for rear is these AC delco flat blades. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-High-Quality-Flat-Blade-Aero-Upgrade-Rubber-Wiper-Blades/261233017215 Just started using these as quality better and price superb. The 15" Fit perfect on SG or SF Forester rear .
-
wheel bearing I expect, diff normally changes noise pitch as load/unload via throttle and normally very easy pinpoint noise . Best way with bearings is run it in gear on lift and use stethoscope on hubs, normally easy distinguish noisy ones out of the 4 this way . If do bearings only use japan bearing kits as not much more cost but 10 times the quality .
-
road drive it on clear road and rock steering left to right and see if noise stops when loaded , if does should be wheel bearing . Rear dif is very distinguishable noise and generally very easy tell it rear . Diff noise normally worsens at speed in corners . If noise can be produced on ramp running in gear should find likely area in 10 minutes with screwdriver and funnel or stethoscope .
-
^ you get MLS gaskets coated that can be stopper or non stopper constructed stopper refers to internal metal layer that either folded around cylinder or die press ridged so it creates more clamp force around cylinder bore. The coating is purely a micro sealing aid and differing metal barrier to corrosion issues .
-
making a forester look like weak sauce lol . skid plate fits well with trimmed bumper .
-
Cosworth is what I normally use as priced far better, half price of RCM for same die cut stopper type gasket available in 0.78 and 1.1, RCM headgaskets are proper decent but bit over priced . Used cosworth for years on sr20's and ej's and they been superb and pricing superb too .
-
No it not hacked, they just gone dirty, I never used them, was advised years ago best didn't rely on service hostings. Best way is buying your own domain and hosting on it yourself, very cheap (less £20 a year) other way is using free pic hosting such as postimage.org . other option is googledrive although can't do images embedded that way but best for files and docs. Any decent forum wants be promoting images to site hosting so got control as lot of threads thus forum content turns to trash when images and file links turn dead . Is a massive loss to huge amount of data built up on forums, hopefully people will smarten up and stop relying on these wanky terminal hostings and take more controllable option for content they upload .
-
Just use a local autofactors as they not that expensive, even oem not too expensive :-/ Unusual have issues with blueprint stuff but lot of eBay stuff is rough old stock so can get stung . If going online then ICP is an option but best calling as they do stock a lot of cheap ranges these days so need know brands you getting before buying from them . eBay option - could try aceparts_uk . Used them for brake discs pads and hoses in bulk and been A1 in price/service
-
removing airbox will be causing air turbulence issues over the maf, mix that with heat soak and pcv's 'there's your problem' basically this a detuning mod, even forced induction subarus can have power/smoothness issues with filters similar to these unless fitted well and air flow mapping adjusted. Subaru airflow sensors are very precise and easy get issues when change mechanical air intake without changing digital data .
-
Legacy clutch replacement
Mr B replied to bensonreaper17's topic in Subaru Engines, Exhausts and modifications
check your model be sure what fly you got, dmf needs plates backlash checked and changed if out of spec, they can be resurfaced , Not a cheap job on the legacy even without flywheel but worth doing right if intend doing mileage to get decent benefit from it . -
Legacy clutch replacement
Mr B replied to bensonreaper17's topic in Subaru Engines, Exhausts and modifications
Never really know for sure till look at them, if has a lot of over heating and surface cracks or bad scoring then ideally needs new. Ideally needs light skim to reface it unless in unusual good smooth condition, most shops don't skim as hassle with extra lift downtime while flywheel being refaced. Ideally want a 3pc LUK or genuine exedy clutch kit then review the flywheel. Most single mass flywheels only need a skim, new flywheel about 100 (non genuine) to £160 if bought as part of clutch kit so calculate that against refacing cost and what money you willing to put into the job. lot of garages just chuck a kit on old fly rubbed down with emery and brake clean and called good, obviously refacing is best but lots of shops likely jump on new fly for quicker/easier job start to finish . -
Don't sound normal to me from your comments, some can get a bit heavy when done the miles but sounds like clutch cover or perhaps pedal hydraulics got issue (cover normally as we done a few), if car been tuned at all could also be a heavy sprung clutch been fitted . New clutch fitted wouldn't be more than £500 from experienced independent, super easy pull boxes on these and clutch kits sensible prices .
-
My P/N was for press fit to back of spindle, the bolt on ones like in your pic are a pain to find sensible priced, used hub is cheapest route on those, have welded couple of those and worked okay, new was over £80 and owners generally faint at that plus cost of splitting hub to fit it .