Mr B

Yeh but on the EE20 the gamble seems a little higher, 2008 to 2009 seem worse and amount I seen with engine failure, clutch failure and awkward deal with injector learning issues, dead and seized heat plugs or dpf regen issues is quite alarming. within 100miles of me I could probably pick up 3 used forester diesel non runners by saturday midday (seen 2 advertised for last 6 weeks). They almost as bad as a french car lol . euro 5 onwards things improve, 2011 is major step forward for ee20 but still not subarus usual bullet proof engineering . Just go into a subaru diesel purchase eyes wide open and buying best you can with at least 2 test drives and diagnostic reading of regen counter, dealer record check etc and for realistic money .

it's much better proposition than a 2008-2009 but still risks of highly expensive problems. They are great cars and interesting diesel drive but if can't handle a potential big bill maybe reconsider . A lot also depends on how great a deal your 2011 is to start with, between EE20 phobia from known problem areas and government harassment of diesels the price needs reflect it .

by gen 5 engines they had at least 3 crankshaft revisions and about same for short blocks, part of problem actually is the block flex at main bearing points stressing crank . Is a lot to go wrong on the EE20 diesels not just cank failure, clutch/dmf, diesel injector issues and heater plugs, DPF issues . Only consider a diesel if doing lot of long mileage journeys and get reasonable saving per annum on the fuel. Anything in between and petrol Ej20 engines pay you back over diesel in no hassle low maintenance and faithful sweet running .

Do a compression check old school with gauge or quick test via relative comp test with a scope, possibly low compression (low contribution from cylinder 1) .

It not sigma, it central locking only 2 button fob and security is skim key chip immobiliser (skim key transponder chip also in key fob housing but separate to pcb board) Easy enough fit a used or new fob pcb and program it to the Fozzy (instructions as above) as long as Fozzy side of it working right, most times it is indeed fob that faulty, cracked board, buttons broken etc etc .

yes, should be able get used and new, I got the 2 key fobs new as always keep few spare remotes for quick customer fix .

obviously test basics of remote first > good battery in it, pcb board and buttons visual inspection . If doesn't work fob will need be repaired or pcb swapped over from working used or new .

that just remote central locking fob , assuming have no motion sensors on windscreen side piller trims and no bonnet switch? If fob functional/working and central locking fob you program it as below . 1: open drivers door fully and leave open 2: do not put keys in the ignition. 3: Connect the white connector found behind the footwell kick panel next to the accelerator (RHD). 4: now with the door still open press and hold the rear part of the door lock/unlock button on the drivers door panel. Keep hold of it DO NOT LET GO. 5: now double press the open button on your key fob then the lock button on your key fob, then switch to a 2nd key fob if have one and do the same (even if already programmed and working as all required fobs must be programmed together ). 6: Once all key fobs been done RELEASE THE BUTTON ON THE DOOR And unplug the white connector . 7: test fobs before refitting footwell kick panel .

More details on "this forester" What year, SF or SG model and fob details or image if not like one below

was bodywork repair in area of wiper or its wiring ? I would assume bad wiring or relay to start with, basic power and ground checks to start with at harness to motor and see where results lead you ...

On a high mile legacy of like 160K plus and no record of what exact last timing parts fitted you indeed best doing everything, all idlers, tensioner and water pump, use only japanese sourced parts from same oem as subaru use, for belts we normally use dayco for this type model (and for the forester too) . For the fozzy at under 120K all idlers good idea, tensioner and water pump could be fine BUT need inspecting, both can be checked and is a test procedure for hydraulic preload on the tensioner (carried out to SFSM guidelines) * if parts already none genuine oem then fit new as china bearings and even european are junk compared to japan mainland brands . If do water pumps only buy blueprint, japan aisin or oem genuine subaru . Cheaper pumps bigger risk than old one throwing away as the original pumps are super high quality and last well on standard subaru models. If buying kits/parts yourself then ICP (import car parts) a good bet . likely get some discount buying for 2 cars and stating a SOC member . https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/contact

Yeh, trouble is if want everything absolute A1 and time goes over drastically you either eat the time or customer gets crazy bill, either way it ends up not viable business/life practise long term and a main reason so many tuners get issues, go under, get bad customer feedback etc . Running over a day with work load starts effecting other customers and jobs, throw in RR free time slots and it soon snowballs into a massive mess and reason why so many customers get tired of booking mapping work. Some tuners are indeed hapless and take path of least resistance get car out the door and some customers are waste of workshop time so not all issues are controllable by the tuner I waste fair few hours weekly unbilled just getting jobs done right and customers happy and work flow close to on time and with tuning game it gets worse, lot of faults are awkward stuff and likely been bounced from one tuner to another with hard diagnose fault or that many basic assembly faults on engine work and mods that about 8hrs needed just put the thing right so can do a dyno run without issues . remember piggysniffer, only one side of story on here, I never judge any issue unless spoken to both parties or involved myself as simply worthless information, pigysniffer sold up recently :-/ All tuners have unhappy customers, many come and go "tuners and customers" ... ...

It not a must and lots of tuners do basic map tweaks without road tests but good practise road test and cold start run it within reason, problem with road testing is can't legally get best results without breaking uk speed limits. Do full tests to redline and easily repeatable needs be on private road or track be legal/safe . Most mappers problem is time as most cars in reality take several hours/sessions map to perfection . We've had ones which won't even start well on a cold morning with aftermarket ecu and p1ss poor cold running mapping as don't keep car long enough or was setup in summer temps lol or boost leaks never sorted fully during mapping but found in 10 minutes with smoke machine . Tuner for that boost leak issue (on a Nissan but they popular with subaru) was local and well known and they told customer intercooler flow issue likely cause and needed new cooler and further map, was pretty obvious from fuel numbers and boost plot it likely had a leak :-/ also cooler was good size for application and decent quality. You here bad things about all tuners, can't see duncan could go wrong on code delete and basic map enhancement . Mapping actually not as hard as people think, what is hard is sorting all the niggles with cars before can map it well and doing it in a time frame that affordable to customer and profitable as a business and it that ratio that leads to all the poor mapping and mapping over faults not fully diagnosed/fixed etc .

They would be monitoring det on RR, hardly pushed tune enough be over concerned on det . Road run always nice to double check AFR and det and decide on more or less advance etc but most don't do it unless push limits to edge or have concerns that need further testing, have easy local good usable safe road or just have fixed working practice of always doing road test as it a legal ballache having any police or accident issues on public roads when testing/tuning a vehicle so if not needed they won't do it . Best way map is rolling road to start with as can create speeds and load points over and over exactly as need until parameters as want in a safe environment, also can see gains as measured figures which far easier than trying feel it in you pants, AFR's are one thing likely differ a little as intake flow and temps alter in real driving . Every mapper got some skeletons, wouldn't say duncan was the worse and shear volume of mapping he done means he long way from not knowing what he doing ....

Thought it would be . you can't change the sigma 1 button remote to the 2 arm/disarm button type . boot release was only for models that had no boot handle and used key to release latch . The alarm system is done for subaru uk by sigma and the one button key casing top and circuit board is made by sigma as an alarm control over the subaru standard key design which had central locking built in originally . Most people including myself find the 1 button far easier. I use both daily and 1 button by far my favourite.

I tested firefox on latest firefox portable version for windows (didn't want install it and android version and both work 100% fine on loading photobucket images. Anyone with any sense will be migrating away from likes of photobucket . with low price of hosting these days it easy enough pay as little as 20-£30 a year for hosting and domain and have you own basic site for image linking storage and email etc .

you have picture of your alarm key fob and numbers on it ? What was your older fob like ?

Also do extension for firefox inc firefox android which useful .

What the fuel trims showing on O2 sensors ? Get it into a garage who can look at bit more than just hoping find fault code numbers. Other thing check is it physically using more fuel, with mpg difference you stating you should notice actual fuel consumption difference on tank gauge or refill needs. Needs looking into asap ...

^ Part No 10 is washer assembly and that bit more pricey and best sourcing whole lot used . (parts not handed)

here's the nozzle PN 86636SA070 https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info.asp?id=10050 here's the cover PN 86640FC021 https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info.asp?id=10051 they forester only ... will you get by with nozzle and cover only ? (1 & 2 in diagram)

whole washer jet or just the plastic top that covers it ? If just the top ICP do original ones about £17 last time I had some (just covers missing is very common on N/S) If whole washer jet then breakers/ebay possibly best cost option . could be worth getting price off ICP or Subaru parts on jet parts needed just so know for sure what works out best ...

Without dealing with Tidgy's friends incident hands on I would have no idea to who at fault or if work was ill advised or other issues involved . I here so many tales and stories I don't bother listening unless have personal involvement as it meaningless info generally without seeing vehicle and those involved hands on . Lot of opinions and lot of poor information pressing that bottom ends must be done and more so as this OP enquiring on a ej20, people best doing real research and preferably hands on research. All owners and professionals in the trade are welcome to their opinion and who you choose do your work and how you do it is entirely your choice or your chosen professional and most professionals will stand by their work . I've done loads of tops ends and not had one bottom end back and don't expect to in any abnormal comeback volume, sure it possible but so is oil pump failure, pickup failure, piston failure etc etc . The 2.5s are quite weak lumps but you can't give every one a bill for a full built motor lol that just unprofessional and certainly unethical for mr joe average in his 80K XT with impeccable SH/Maintenance and most minor of HG issues . As I say many times you got deal with jobs on individual engine and customer circumstances, i've stripped 2.5's and found bottom ends fine, cams and standard pistons being more common area needing attention and parts. Bottom end on 2.5 bigger issue on tuned cars and ones that used aggressively . p155 poor mapping and p155 poor owner being biggest issue .

Don't look at it purely from "tuners" approach, If a road use 2.5 with 60 to 80K turns up running A1 and passing all inspections with full FSH and with only minimal HG symptoms as diagnosis you going give it a full short block build and the customer the bill ! that just complete nonsense and up scaling the job when not needed . Lot of tuners approach is total nonsense as is some of the tuning parts they push, on highly tuned cars and ones built as track toys can need approach to be different but to say must be done and it a "RISK" is total nonsense without evaluating each engine and customer on individual basis .

No it not a gamble, I been in the game 30 years and although I do realize my humble limits I know the reality of head gasket issues through years of doing them and experience of others with more background knowledge than myself, I know many respected tuners mechanics and engine builders who also do only top end in evaluated cases no drama and no more comeback issues over any other work done . I know a couple US respected subaru specialist who also deal HG only and in large numbers due to amount of 2.5s they have in the US market . The concept that average minor hard detect HG leak without oil contamination will damage bottom end on average otherwise decent engine is simply ridiculous and misinformation . Also this thread is dealing with a ej20 which has far less HG concerns and bottom end drama over the ej25's .