Mr B

sensible price if a nice one, would of been interested myself if a manual . good luck with sale .

could look at raising the skoda 60mm with custom springs from springcoil or I think weitek done rubber spacers for vw/skoda ! Doubt get anymore than 60mm though.

Later models with revised crank is best (done at least 2 crank revisions), they also have benefit of better component and software revisions. Injector relearning is a mode the ecu goes into to check relative injector function and calibrate itself. Injectors are coded from factory and when replaced this code has be entered into ecu so it knows base values of new injector . DPF is bit of hit and miss issue, driving type plays big roll but so does subaru software versions. Ideally dpf's should be strippable so easily manually cleaned at service times, regen and chemical cleaning is not great for environment or owners wallet . Back pressure from dpf reduces engine efficiency massively and costs owner a fortune over life of vehicle. Removing it not option as ilegal and mot failure ... If buy diesel forester just try buy latest model can and test drive it at least twice for prolonged varried drives (make sure clutch feels nice) and try check previous service issues via dealers etc. Later models and latest software mixed with high mileage use tends give little issue but if a short tripper or not doing high enough anual mileage reap financial recovery then diesel is big expense .

ICP and esubaru are useful at times and handy for saving cost and getting odd parts fast . Lot of the basic parts are pretty easy source via good local motorfactors or online motorfactors. eBay motorfactor sellers have some parts cheaper than we can get on trade accounts and decent brand quality parts too . We actually invested about 6K in stocked parts from large factor specialists and esubaru as enables us give lower quotes but maintain quality parts thus get the work and no hassles of cheaper part range, plus it far easier and faster for us have parts at hand as can do lot of jobs almost instantly without hassle of part delivery downtime/wrong parts supplied etc . Lot of subaru parts can be found at sensible cost whether oem or pattern part, always worth stepping back and researching all options before jump into big expense . Enoy another year of reasonably cheap and trouble free motoring I hope, good luck with the old oil burner :-)

Hope you enjoy the new forester and get a great subaru experience from it ... good luck and have fun getting some mud on it lol .

Well all depends which ones and how many. Generally not common see that many bushes bad on a 2008 fozzy unless on stupid mileage or doing lot of time on dirt tracks, farm drives etc. Generally 2 or 4 bushings would be quite low cost (if don't go main dealers), Blueprint & firstline cover few of the bushes, oem bushes can be had online from likes of esubaru or ICP at lowish costs, droplinks etc covered by huge range of makes, Blueprint, Meyle being 2 good options . If not even been added as MOT advisory I would assume the tester just being overly verbal on it, maybe just had a training update on it lol .

Cv boots can be issue coming off if poor size match and don't have proper lips, only ones we use are adl or solidace as they fit just like oem. We use nylon zip ties on inner boots, must be proper nylon not the plastic **** and larger width strap so strong. Mainly go with them as quick easy light and don't rot. Cambelt is pretty easy if take time and take rad with fans out as one unit as gibes loads of room and all easy see. Crank pulley bolt witho ut impact gun can be removed with car in 4th gear whith wheels on ground or someone stomping brakes or use old belt trick looped on alternater and crank (yoitube likely habe that) . Would wait for better weather as no fun in rain and increases problems working in unfavorable conditions . Least alarm sorted, M30 easier and xheaper than early sf subaru remotes .

Hope its a good one and gives you a trouble free introduction to subaru, 2.5 XT always a risk between egr and head gasket issues but hopefully low mileage and quality service history will pay you back for few years no hassle motoring. Have fun ...

MPT1340 remote would be 2 button (one lock, one unlock) if you got single button have you actually got a M30 alarm installed ? upload pic of remote ... Cambelt is pretty easy, I did write a guide in thread on here but youtube video has loads to give you idea on how proceed. Is super easy car do cambelts on to be honest as boxer layout works well here Best tips is pull rad out with fans attached & mark old belt tooth to pulley's with marker pen and transfer to new belt as makes it impossible go wrong if do well. couple bulldog clips are super useful fitting new belt unless have 4 arms . Buy quility cambelt kit such as ADL blueprint or Dayco, waterpump best inspected for play, bearing roughness and seal integrity and if do replace use quality japanese pump or you throwing better part in bin (Subaru waterpumps are superb quality and can do over 150K easily) Other thing inspect is the crank oil seal as these common leak and as only £7 for genuine seal they worth doing as only another 15 minutes work when cambelt off . driveshaft boots super easy on subaru, just loosen drive nut and be sure shaft free in hub then punch out drive pin, remove wheel, pull 2 bolts from strut (mark position of top bolt as it camber adjustment bolt) The shaft can be pulled out of hub while still attached to lower arm. strip and clean on bench and refit. Buy good boots such as ADL or SolidAce as fit like oem and last way way longer than cheaper brand stuff.

Shut all the door/bonnet and let alarm finish squeeling if will ! If siren does stop try cycling alarm couple times via the remotes and see if works on them ! Also check battery voltage is over 12.4V Trouble with pin code is if someones changed it subaru recorded one won't work read manual for info on entering pin code as quite fussy on how done. easy enough reset pin or add remotes as long as got one remote that works alarm . M30.doc

Rusty rear flange on those cats are pretty much the norm. what we do is cut flange off and use a clamp pipe on remaining pipe tail or if good enough can weld on new flange . Seems it an XT you would be best getting mid and rear box made up by a local decent powerflow centre perhaps, they could design centre pipe slip right on cat remaining tail if rest of it good and solid and tweak cat shields to suite new joint . not great options for ones with same flange angle and most used not lot better or wise buy .

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2004/

^ Good idea fully write current motor off first. You'll find one in UK if phone around specialist breakers, not overly cheap used unless get lucky in a local breakers first . If buy from USA, buy oem motor not the dorman brand parts as they junk ... Is couple subaru parts sellers on ebay so find and message them on motor pricing, also call importcarparts and see if they can do it and the cost . Not often for parts fails but unfortunately not super cheap when do . Seems able do labour yourself if you can get decent price new unit go for it as job jobbed and won't be revisiting it . good luck ...

motor is forester specific, to make it worse 05 onward is slightly different, whether can be retrofitted I don't know as never tried. We either source used from good breakers or specialist subaru breakers or get new, don't do many to be honest and part of reason no pattern parts cover it for europe . Worth a look on eBay for 02 to 05 foresters breaking .

Exact details of crank but no start will help diagnosis, example, if cranking and absolute no firing it probably sensor issue . checking spark on cop pack would be good . can't see it being something that going fix itself or type of fuel in use . If you can here fuel pump priming when key turned on then it should run few seconds or splutter on that line pressure even if pump didn't run when cranking so if no firing cop not getting signals as ecu probably getting poor data on a sensor. very common for specific temp condition trigger sensor component fault . You can review sensors using service manual data but better diagnosis needs oscilloscope and possibly fault be more persistent which could even give a fault code to help point probable area start checks .

Euro4 ecu needs SSM2 for best data reading and resetting, freessm (run on notebook) and obd cable with iso support will read most data. Later Euro 5/6 has extended OBD2 support which better and manual reset procedure for oil dilution reset .

^ Not really wanting put you off but just want you going into it eyes wide open and taking extra care on ones you view. Ignore anything traders/sellers tell you and use common sense and own suspicions and anything not perfect just move on. You need look and drive a few to actually gain knowledge base of good/bad right/faulty and judge value accurately . Extended test drive is a must on these, they need b road and traffic and bit of dual carriageway too, if can't get a days test it going be a case of long test drive and perhaps return next day for another drive and sealing the deal if all good. Other thing can do is get someone read the ecu data and see status of soot levels, regen count and oil dilution as this can show possible ongoing problems . Your annual mileage makes it worth a go, people under 18Kmls a year are better off with a petrol as cheaper in long term.

I'm just giving you the reality, if you get a bad one it will be ballache and serious big bills, Subaru themselves don't want admit any issues thus help you get is limited and not warranty covered unless get lucky . I got a lot of customers who keen on the diesel, I won't buy them for customer resale as simply don't want hassle and bad rep that they could give, we currently have one for personal use and loan car basically for our own personal learning . It a 50/50 gamble on the pre 2014 stuff and even the post 2014 not proven itself fully . It is a complex diesel and boxer layout makes it more complex plus subaru had no diesel background work from so it a lot of high tech and tricky emission control in a short learning curve :-/

Sounds good To be honest I wouldn't do too much to it, subtle changes to rollbars & custom springs can improve handling if mainly used on A roads & motorways. Custom exhaust helps a lot on turbos, remap with slight boost increase would give good gain of power, brake upgrade and good tyres important before more hp. Be sure service well with frequent engine oil and coolant flushes using quality products, the 2.5 head gaskets will thank you for that. Great practical and fun cars when take time find a proper clean one, facelift looks okay :-/ i'm more of a SF forester fan but like you say beauty is in eye of beholder . Keep enjoying it ...

old id gold, I would buy pre dpf diesel. Not a lot of benefit in going newer diesels and anything under 2014 is risky era on the boxer diesel . They super pricey when get problems, your sort of mileage would probably be good to dpf but software issues with injector relearning and some component issues makes them a bit of a gamble . You could be good for few years and really enjoy it or end up with 500 and £1000 bill after bill within first year if unlucky. Would have buy very wisely, do huge amount of research from previous dealers that handled the car, very thorough extended test drive and not go too cheap or will be buying problems for sure . I've had a few in and early heater plug issue not biggest concern as fixable, dpf, injector learning and awful dmf clutches are the other problems, clutch expensive but resolvable, dpf and injector learning issues not really got cures as so much of it linked to the software mapping and actual design of dpf which can't legally remove unfortunately .

2012 still iffy, injector learning and dpf issues still persist, issue as well is a lot of subaru specialist don't have answers for lot of the issues (myself included) . I wouldn't waste my money on any modern dpf diesel, dpf is ridiculous waste of resources and reduces engine efficiency & in long term makes it use more fuel , It all a con for emission figures and nothing else unfortunately and one that if look into through an engineers perspective actually is far worse for planets pollution situation :-/

Bit pricey for just just basic clutch job. They not hard or over time consuming to do and clutch kit not overly costly either, ideally want flywheel skimmed as new clutch on old flywheel waste of time really, sure you can get away with it when condition fair but it bad practice and can end up twice the bills .... I would say 400-480 about right cost with skimmed old fly and all parts required, get good clutch like luk or exedy .

unfortunately not, is easy diy one though, just couple alloy flat bar strips off the number plate holes to a 25x50mm or 75mm alloy angle cut to required length for spotlight spacing. Alloy bar easily shaped for nice contour and can go to back of angle keeping joints neat, less than £20 in materials inc stainless m6 bolts/nuts/washers . You then feed a flat bar through the grill, can do one in centre as this lines up with bonnet latch support upright for easy attachment, can do 2 bars through grill but bit more work, 1 works fine and doubles as track for wiring .With fairly slim lights this keeps them flush to bumper so less prone to damage and vehicle length not increased . You can get some A-bars with spot mounts, iffy with insurance these days though .

^ rectangular like the Hellas ideally I think . Very easy make your own light bar, problem with ebay one is sticks outwards a lot as bumper already protrudes massively on the SG fozzy, can make simple one from some alloy flat bar and short length alloy angle plus some stainless bolts or rivets and fit similar by using number plate fixings but also have 2 flat bars go through grill to keep it firm, wiring can run under one of these bars (ebay one one just 2 plate fixings will flex a lot making lighting look flickery) . doing this means lights can mount above and flush to bumper . We done a couple and alloy bumper lipped skid pan to replace the plastic nappy :-) ...

If rollbar feels loose in the bar rubber D bushes get new pair. Febi Bilstein, Delphi or Firstline would be options . Firstline less half cost of our local factors on eBay, not used Firstline but at eBay price of around £8 a pair inc P&P hard beat (£18 at our factors :-O ) Do measure rollbar diameter to see size compatible ...