Mr B

mapco 76295 , they about £20 price range . Same reluctor rings as on forester an impreza .

rear drop links on SG onwards are standard metal ball joints so just stick with them but if need replacing use MEYLE HD ones as seem best from what we tried. Whiteline is simplest kit get hold of, don't bother with the swaybar brackets as way way cheaper strengthen original ones by welding support plates to them (easily unbolt to work on or take to a welding/fabrication shop) . Other things check is rear struts as saggy/failing SLS struts give loose rear end as does poor tyre choice, old tyres, mismatched set, wrong pressures etc .

I wouldn't waste money on BC coilovers or coilovers in general for road use, they are junk, valving is poor and strut stroke is way way too short a travel range, they turn into a corroded mess in 18 months and will leak if on rough roads or venture down tracks a lot with your forester .. coilovers are totally useless for UK B roads if you know anything about suspension and how it should work . Pedders dropped struts about best sensible option for road use and cost to you .

Generally yes they are interchangeable . You seem be making hard work of this, your front noise clunking issue is indeed sounding to be a driveshaft and it will more than likely be just the outer joint which can be smply knocked off the shaft or pulled of the shaft, outer joints are around £30, whole driveshaft are around £70 to £160 pending quality level, if want good go SKF for whole shaft. DO be aware you get what pay for and cheap shafts don't work as well in terms of smoothness, balance or longevity as likes of a quality oem supplier like SKF Other area you want check is front coil spring and top hat as issues here cause similar symptoms from your other thread, you will also only really determine cv issues by striping for inspection unless seriously and unusually worn or internal parts broken . car not done much mileage so I would be inclined just do outer shaft joint both sides and inspect inner joint, clean/regrease so know all is good and no drama and no big bill. I wouldn't recommend used as front shafts work hard and most close to junk if split joints and inspect for wear and pitting . Parts can be found online easy enough or good local factors could get it but at more cost and ICP that gets talked about a lot on here will do outer joints posted to your door, easy to fit if you half handy with tools and as example on garage charge I would do 2 outer joint and inspect re-grease inners in 2 hrs labour easy , only heavily seized shaft in hub would slow it down ant that not a common occurrence .

Go to https://brakeparts.co.uk/ and search this disc part number BDS7058 just get pads to match your vehicle and vented disc/caliper . double check discs measures and eye up pad shape to compare before purchase. As far as I recall only a choice of 2 rear discs > vented or non vented <. without full model details can't confirm for sure though as SJ has diesel XT and NA models .

try J&R CV joints, used them a few times. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/jrcvjointsdriveshafts/_i.html?_sid=402113711&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=SUBARU Legacy 2004 if just outer joint it easier, cheaper and better just replace that .

^ depends on the branch/staff I believe, ours have lot of pre formed bends and do pretty tidy mild bends , will still be better than original small oem bore and silencers. If not after absolute ultimate freeflow and nothing with too many bends they can do some good work for sensible money . Do need talk everything through with them so gets done to requirements or move on to other supplier/fitter.

simplest solution to get what you want (pipe size, neat fit, sound and tip style) is custom made from powerflow dealer or longlife dealer in your area . should only need mid section and rear as front and cats normally fine/serviceable on later SG, cat flanges can corrode but if rest not bad it easy enough cut and weld new flange to them. other option is 2.5 sti made to fit via new hangers and slight extension on rear. would go powerflow or longlife route unless find oem sti exhaust for cheap .

Rule out MAF (thorough maf clean), air leaks and fuel supply before spending on likes of a front lambda (don't buy cheap ones).

DON'T run an AWD on standard MOT brake rollers, you can trash the tranny/running gear . We add comments on the billing paper work but additional flyer idea good one . You wouldn't want run a car at that speed anywhere let alone in residential area for brake bedding in. Doubt much will happen legally but they need shaming and loosing business as that poor service and as your car makes you look like a school kid killer .

They all pretty cheap on parts if look into it rather than jumping head first, sf and sg probably slightly cheaper, don't need a lot as reliable if buy with care. Not a huge amount of difference in mpg, SG had weight saving with alu bonnet and alu pressed front subframe plus thinner steel in some body areas (rear inner arches thin as tin cans) My favourite is late SF 99 on (cheaper tax too) . SG probably easiest find these days at not much money for what get and potentially an amazing bargain if take time buy above average example. SH is quite a bit bigger as more SUV while the SF & SG is more a station wagon .

Matching flares formed well and fittings are what makes the job hassle free. those flare tools make perfect flares dead easy, just do some practice flares and bending to get feel for it then go for it, is very easy and with some thought and care can make real neat lines without much hassle . remember put your fittings on and right way round before flaring lol .

It works fine, don't think too much lol. for 0.01mm it makes no difference, everyone uses 3/16SAE for repair work on jap cars including myself, just buy good cupro nickel line a decent flare tool, cheaping out on those or going easy beginner route of soft copper will waste hours or get you or someone killed possibly !

Fittings more important be match in nose length and thread (most pretty much same quality), local parts factors will have a range or ebay seller such as below . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Pipe-Brake-Pipe-Unions-Fittings-Ends-Sizes-for-all-Cars-Metric-3-8-UNF-/121763412291

copper nickel (cupro nickel) is all we will use . just copper not safe in my opinion (illegal in many countries, oem is coated steel) 3/16 (4.75) is the size * Do not buy the cheap flaring tools as will make poor flares and you will rip your hair out with leaks or have weak flare joints that could fail Decent diy flare tool is £32 but makes nice flares every time and can be used in tight spots on car so ideal all rounder . Buy correct fittings or reuse old if clean enough, wrong nose and thread length fittings can lead to failures which you don't want with brakes.Couple ebay links give you visual reference ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-16-25-FT-LONG-CUPRO-NICKEL-KUNIFER-BRAKE-FUEL-PIPE-ROLL-25ft-BS-EN12449-/271597859816 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Brake-Pipe-Line-Flaring-Tool-Professional-In-situ-3-16-SAE-Hand-Held-/261734862516

You on about the bumper protector . I got some a year or 2 ago via USA seller on eBay, was about £36 each inc all costs and the US ones have Forester moulded into them rather than Subaru so add a nice touch, Old ones are a bugger to get off. I had remove prep and respray a complete rear bumper at my expense for a customer as old broken one was lifting paint when trying remove (not factory paint), didn't have heart add paint refinish cost to the bill which was high enough without issues for what is a bit of plastic trim lol .

Indeed proper versatile wagon, Handling can be improved with stiffer springs and rear shocks/anti-roll bar. easy cars live with and make daily life and bad winter a breeze ...

If it original paint and A1 leave it, the factory fluro-carbon clear coats on the metallics are never matched in durability even by best after market paint products or sprayers .

Shame to break that just for HG issue ...

6 weeks is nothing, just start it and let it idle and warm a little before driving .

If this an SF model it not really that bad besides time consuming. get yourself a plastic trim removal tool set and a metal v tipped screwdriver style clip/prybar if not got anything already and get stuck in Airbags are no real hassle, just extra plugs disconnect but nothing worry about a no chance of going off or anything. Bulk of dash comes off in one piece then dash tube bar can be disconnected fully core side and loosened the other to give easy removal working space, it just a lot of clips and screws so have a few small containers so can group them to particular areas for easier assembly . Areas to start is steering wheel removal and clocks, centre console, glovebox and small trim. If give model year I will link you factory service manual diagrams which will help locate fitting points clips and general part overlay etc .

Yeh it tricky one, you hardly ever need one but when not got one will be that one time you need it .

swing gate can look tidy if done well and only thing needs trimming is bumper but can do it without even that but wouldn't look so neat, if don't travel far then not major concern just have couple cans puncture repair and good foot pump. if use roof rack then tyre will sit on roof or can go in boot upright with ratchet strap retaining it .

best option is a swing gate for the tyre that goes through bumper and mounts off rear bar of the tow hitch. Will be custom fabrication effort but not overly hard, use 2 taper needle bearings so the swing arm is play free and smooth to use . other option is cans of tyre puncture repair or spare on roof-rack if MPG not a concern ...

Yeh auto is okay, but I not greatest fan of 4EAT on turbo engine, AWD is completely different principle on them too using a hydraulic clutch to control drive to rear diff . For auto likers it fine but for manual likers it not the best transition compared to later type auto boxes . Probably is part of reason less interest but with that mileage and if proper clean it will soon go, always tend find low mileage and cleaner ones are auto boxes lol .