Mr B

Rule out MAF (thorough maf clean), air leaks and fuel supply before spending on likes of a front lambda (don't buy cheap ones).

DON'T run an AWD on standard MOT brake rollers, you can trash the tranny/running gear . We add comments on the billing paper work but additional flyer idea good one . You wouldn't want run a car at that speed anywhere let alone in residential area for brake bedding in. Doubt much will happen legally but they need shaming and loosing business as that poor service and as your car makes you look like a school kid killer .

They all pretty cheap on parts if look into it rather than jumping head first, sf and sg probably slightly cheaper, don't need a lot as reliable if buy with care. Not a huge amount of difference in mpg, SG had weight saving with alu bonnet and alu pressed front subframe plus thinner steel in some body areas (rear inner arches thin as tin cans) My favourite is late SF 99 on (cheaper tax too) . SG probably easiest find these days at not much money for what get and potentially an amazing bargain if take time buy above average example. SH is quite a bit bigger as more SUV while the SF & SG is more a station wagon .

Matching flares formed well and fittings are what makes the job hassle free. those flare tools make perfect flares dead easy, just do some practice flares and bending to get feel for it then go for it, is very easy and with some thought and care can make real neat lines without much hassle . remember put your fittings on and right way round before flaring lol .

It works fine, don't think too much lol. for 0.01mm it makes no difference, everyone uses 3/16SAE for repair work on jap cars including myself, just buy good cupro nickel line a decent flare tool, cheaping out on those or going easy beginner route of soft copper will waste hours or get you or someone killed possibly !

Fittings more important be match in nose length and thread (most pretty much same quality), local parts factors will have a range or ebay seller such as below . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Pipe-Brake-Pipe-Unions-Fittings-Ends-Sizes-for-all-Cars-Metric-3-8-UNF-/121763412291

copper nickel (cupro nickel) is all we will use . just copper not safe in my opinion (illegal in many countries, oem is coated steel) 3/16 (4.75) is the size * Do not buy the cheap flaring tools as will make poor flares and you will rip your hair out with leaks or have weak flare joints that could fail Decent diy flare tool is £32 but makes nice flares every time and can be used in tight spots on car so ideal all rounder . Buy correct fittings or reuse old if clean enough, wrong nose and thread length fittings can lead to failures which you don't want with brakes.Couple ebay links give you visual reference ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-16-25-FT-LONG-CUPRO-NICKEL-KUNIFER-BRAKE-FUEL-PIPE-ROLL-25ft-BS-EN12449-/271597859816 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Brake-Pipe-Line-Flaring-Tool-Professional-In-situ-3-16-SAE-Hand-Held-/261734862516

You on about the bumper protector . I got some a year or 2 ago via USA seller on eBay, was about £36 each inc all costs and the US ones have Forester moulded into them rather than Subaru so add a nice touch, Old ones are a bugger to get off. I had remove prep and respray a complete rear bumper at my expense for a customer as old broken one was lifting paint when trying remove (not factory paint), didn't have heart add paint refinish cost to the bill which was high enough without issues for what is a bit of plastic trim lol .

Indeed proper versatile wagon, Handling can be improved with stiffer springs and rear shocks/anti-roll bar. easy cars live with and make daily life and bad winter a breeze ...

If it original paint and A1 leave it, the factory fluro-carbon clear coats on the metallics are never matched in durability even by best after market paint products or sprayers .

Shame to break that just for HG issue ...

6 weeks is nothing, just start it and let it idle and warm a little before driving .

If this an SF model it not really that bad besides time consuming. get yourself a plastic trim removal tool set and a metal v tipped screwdriver style clip/prybar if not got anything already and get stuck in Airbags are no real hassle, just extra plugs disconnect but nothing worry about a no chance of going off or anything. Bulk of dash comes off in one piece then dash tube bar can be disconnected fully core side and loosened the other to give easy removal working space, it just a lot of clips and screws so have a few small containers so can group them to particular areas for easier assembly . Areas to start is steering wheel removal and clocks, centre console, glovebox and small trim. If give model year I will link you factory service manual diagrams which will help locate fitting points clips and general part overlay etc .

Yeh it tricky one, you hardly ever need one but when not got one will be that one time you need it .

swing gate can look tidy if done well and only thing needs trimming is bumper but can do it without even that but wouldn't look so neat, if don't travel far then not major concern just have couple cans puncture repair and good foot pump. if use roof rack then tyre will sit on roof or can go in boot upright with ratchet strap retaining it .

best option is a swing gate for the tyre that goes through bumper and mounts off rear bar of the tow hitch. Will be custom fabrication effort but not overly hard, use 2 taper needle bearings so the swing arm is play free and smooth to use . other option is cans of tyre puncture repair or spare on roof-rack if MPG not a concern ...

Yeh auto is okay, but I not greatest fan of 4EAT on turbo engine, AWD is completely different principle on them too using a hydraulic clutch to control drive to rear diff . For auto likers it fine but for manual likers it not the best transition compared to later type auto boxes . Probably is part of reason less interest but with that mileage and if proper clean it will soon go, always tend find low mileage and cleaner ones are auto boxes lol .

sensible price if a nice one, would of been interested myself if a manual . good luck with sale .

could look at raising the skoda 60mm with custom springs from springcoil or I think weitek done rubber spacers for vw/skoda ! Doubt get anymore than 60mm though.

Later models with revised crank is best (done at least 2 crank revisions), they also have benefit of better component and software revisions. Injector relearning is a mode the ecu goes into to check relative injector function and calibrate itself. Injectors are coded from factory and when replaced this code has be entered into ecu so it knows base values of new injector . DPF is bit of hit and miss issue, driving type plays big roll but so does subaru software versions. Ideally dpf's should be strippable so easily manually cleaned at service times, regen and chemical cleaning is not great for environment or owners wallet . Back pressure from dpf reduces engine efficiency massively and costs owner a fortune over life of vehicle. Removing it not option as ilegal and mot failure ... If buy diesel forester just try buy latest model can and test drive it at least twice for prolonged varried drives (make sure clutch feels nice) and try check previous service issues via dealers etc. Later models and latest software mixed with high mileage use tends give little issue but if a short tripper or not doing high enough anual mileage reap financial recovery then diesel is big expense .

ICP and esubaru are useful at times and handy for saving cost and getting odd parts fast . Lot of the basic parts are pretty easy source via good local motorfactors or online motorfactors. eBay motorfactor sellers have some parts cheaper than we can get on trade accounts and decent brand quality parts too . We actually invested about 6K in stocked parts from large factor specialists and esubaru as enables us give lower quotes but maintain quality parts thus get the work and no hassles of cheaper part range, plus it far easier and faster for us have parts at hand as can do lot of jobs almost instantly without hassle of part delivery downtime/wrong parts supplied etc . Lot of subaru parts can be found at sensible cost whether oem or pattern part, always worth stepping back and researching all options before jump into big expense . Enoy another year of reasonably cheap and trouble free motoring I hope, good luck with the old oil burner :-)

Hope you enjoy the new forester and get a great subaru experience from it ... good luck and have fun getting some mud on it lol .

Well all depends which ones and how many. Generally not common see that many bushes bad on a 2008 fozzy unless on stupid mileage or doing lot of time on dirt tracks, farm drives etc. Generally 2 or 4 bushings would be quite low cost (if don't go main dealers), Blueprint & firstline cover few of the bushes, oem bushes can be had online from likes of esubaru or ICP at lowish costs, droplinks etc covered by huge range of makes, Blueprint, Meyle being 2 good options . If not even been added as MOT advisory I would assume the tester just being overly verbal on it, maybe just had a training update on it lol .

Cv boots can be issue coming off if poor size match and don't have proper lips, only ones we use are adl or solidace as they fit just like oem. We use nylon zip ties on inner boots, must be proper nylon not the plastic **** and larger width strap so strong. Mainly go with them as quick easy light and don't rot. Cambelt is pretty easy if take time and take rad with fans out as one unit as gibes loads of room and all easy see. Crank pulley bolt witho ut impact gun can be removed with car in 4th gear whith wheels on ground or someone stomping brakes or use old belt trick looped on alternater and crank (yoitube likely habe that) . Would wait for better weather as no fun in rain and increases problems working in unfavorable conditions . Least alarm sorted, M30 easier and xheaper than early sf subaru remotes .

Hope its a good one and gives you a trouble free introduction to subaru, 2.5 XT always a risk between egr and head gasket issues but hopefully low mileage and quality service history will pay you back for few years no hassle motoring. Have fun ...