Mr B

silencers don't sound sweetest (local factors no better though and twice price) but seem last well & is aluminised steel . Worked out good on older subarus as meant we could cost job cheaper than car value :-) and keep older cars affordable & on the road . Forester ones are about £60 to £70 . Just message them car reg be sure right and ask pipe diameter to be sure it not dropping size from oem, you'll get bit cheaper if do offer ...

you need get waxoil in the arch cavity which need access from inside boot . I will try dig out part number for arch protectors, them are an extra like the black rear bumper protector . Full price is silly money but they hide arch edge and do a good job of protecting body work a bit . one we done was not a AWP so bumpers & door lower guards all black & black arch trim matched in perfect. They do them in same grey/gunmetal as the bumpers/door guards.If you call a dealer they may be able help Look online as may find way cheaper . Other option is something like this, as you got dark green black blends nicely with it . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331984431810

These are good budget option, better than stuff we get from local motor factors at almost twice price, used them on foresters & old justy . Make an offer .I purchased a few SF & SG foz systems . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Outback-3-0-Subaru-Legacy-3-0R-24V-4x4-exhaust-system-silencer-3528-/321754044440

You want spray waxoil inside rear arches so getting down to that arch lip, will need remove side trims in boot. Rear arches are about 30/70 bad/good on these and they either go from inside out or out panel start going because arch lip failing . We done a red one which was bit bad and needed plating on inner arch and small area of outer arch. Rather than blend in body paint the arches had the genuine subaru black optional front & rear arch trims fitted (not cheap but may get old stock deal on them) which covered the repair visual body paint & made job easy and could use a marine grade epoxy paint final coat which way better than 2 packs long term . Rust on these is best attacked quick as modern steel soon de-laminates . The older SF forester was better steel and thicker sheet metal on inner arch guard Least other minor faults fixed and dealer happy and easy in covering the work ... .

You on about the power aerial in front n/s wing ? or the antenna booster amp ? Think aerial was option so not sure how well covered in manuals but not too hard trace it back from harness link here > for 1998 sfsm in pdf sections which maybe useful

Can't say I noticed a trend on fuel to P0420 . You may find rear one for about £90 (from online lambda specialist such as ecolambda.co.uk) at best if cross match subaru part number, most cheaper ones still turn out be same denso sensor.Front one easier find cheap than rear rom last time I sourced one . You could throw £100 at garage to check rear sensor and cat and still have a 50/50 diagnosis result . check connectors for sensors well & give them squirt of elec contact cleaner .

You could try some cat cleaner additive first, even try the additive twice and drive it hard so cat gets real hot. This may bring some life back into a carbon blocked cat and clean sensor heads a bit. 2.5 head gasket issues can help reduce cat lifespan . lambda sensor has it's own fault code for main failures but it could be reading off and cured couple with rear sensor when no real fault data found to conclude anything else . Hard one diagnose and expensive how ever you go about it.

That code rarely linked to front sensor so mechanic probably not too clued up to replace that first. cat could be fine at 130k but other issues such as oil & excessive fueling can shorten the lifespan . rear sensor or related wiring is the more common one, rear sensor around £130 roughly and easy fit . If you can fit a rear sensor yourself it probably better option than paying garage do tests . Do check exhaust condition for potential leaks though .

Rather than pay a garage you could buy obd to usb cable and use freessm software on notebook or for a basic solution buy a simple code reader (10.99) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Engine-Fault-Code-Reader-Diagnostic-Scanner-Reset-Tool-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD-UK-/172200936611 Some members on here used these fine and simple easy use solution if not into notebooks or no android phone to use a bluetooth obd dongle and android torque app . get the exact code & also check & clean sensor harness plugs with elec contact cleaner .I would guess it going be P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold) which really is either the rear sensor as this is the one that relates data to cat efficiency. sensor data can be read & sensor bench tests can be done, Cat itself could be an issue, also leaks in exhaust can cause it too .

On the diesel it can be the clutch or dmf . new clutch complete with dmf is expensive on those, if minimal judder & only when cold it probably go for long while yet but if things get worse get it looked at & if do a clutch be sure do dmf too .

Yeh with mafs I would go recirc as way you map around them does nothing good for throttle response, if using map sensor and after market ecu then no real issue. modern mafs are super sensitive & anything changing turbulance in piping can be an issue. I lost count of amont of evo's & subarus that had gear change hesitation issue (some only at high speed change of say 100mph) due to vent bov, even older cars like nissans on jec maf's could be fussy with pipework shape and needed good valves be trouble free. .

You won't see any gain from BOV at factory boost level, only reason to upgrade technically is needing something technically better/reliable when boost increased or you want a setup where some boost pressure still held in intake rather than bleeding it all off. On maf & maf/map combined systems recirc tends work best, some cars have hesitation on vented or if no noticeable hesitation if you log the ecu & wideband you will see less than ideal data at times. Only time you get gains from aftermarket valves is if standard broken/leaking either to age or fact you boosting way over standard pressures or by bov system designed hold some intake pressure so when thottle open you gain boost faster . Ideal scenario on road cars with no antilag is holding about 3 to 6psi in intake. rally cars & lot of drag cars don't use bov as want absolute best throttle response thus want boost pressure present as soon as throttle opened, they use the antilag to to stop the turbo stalling & noise you here on rally cars is the impeller chopping through stalled compressed air & the wastegate

Relay is to right of drivers fusebox under dash & wants bottom dash panel off for access . relay is same as some other circuits so can swap one for a test, relay cover is removable & can be cleaned inspected . Picking up a cheap used drivers button panel can be helpful for diagnosis if running out of stuff you can check. Try and test drivers motor with a direct earth & power feed and see how functions .

^ Sounds likely pump will initial prime with ignition on but will only power when engine cranking & reading the sensors for this, if sensors test ok check wiring connector harness . Review immobilizer circuit too as many (pending how wired in) cut pump trigger but not the prime trigger & had a few cars over years with sticky/failed relays in immobilizer modules .

you got be careful on anything changing intake, turbulent issues created by new piping or blow off valve can mess up air intake readings causing hesitation & potentially damaging engine. Lot of bolt on mods can turn into detuning rather than tuning ... evo's & scoobs have same issues as air measurement is so fine small things can really mess it up .

I reckon so John unfortunately ...

1469 is DPF soot level and it in limp home mode. 1468 is oil dilution related ...

Is another thread on here with better info on advanced test, resetting codes etc but I can't find it and rushed off feet today. Might of been in Ricky's SF turbo threads ...

You only plug in black to black to just read codes. Plugging in green ones as well extends to system test mode. Link below in thread with basic but will try put up a detailed link as many on here have wrong info or not all info on its use.

they do cross fit with many impreza early models so is a good way source a sensible priced used one . If small areas of heavy rot they very easy repair to high standard, removing them means want new bushes and bolts more than likely, couple we done turned into bigger job with rot on chassis deal with & mount captive fittings needing fabricating and welding in . heavily seized bolts in lateral links can up cost of job too .

Yeh they can be quite good, tyres & driving style making big difference. certainly reasonable for a awd not overly aerodynamic wagon . hope you keep enjoying and minor issue resolved without any drama . you'll be too busy looking for snow ice and floods to play in over the winter so likely forget about mpg lol .

11mm rotor improved pump good way go & they cheap really for insurance they give . A health run would be good, rmap can be revisited as plans manifest . Main thing after rebuild is having it running safely and without glitches as don't want be doing things twice ...

Quite a few things can cause this. Simple thing check is throttle cable setting to butterfly, is possible someone adjusted loose throttle to much and butterfly open too much, why this cause issue ? Well with more air via butterfly the iav has reduce idle by reducing air and can be beyond or on edge of its adjustment range then this code pops up, air leak can cause similar . Worth checking as seen it a few times and classic caused by service tech who no idea what doing and no knowledge on Subaru. On to neutral switch, this can be faulty or have wear on linkage which activates switch, If switch passes multimeter test fitting a thinner sealing washer is one way of curing wear in switch mechanism. Many say this high mile box only, I disagree as low mile car doing short trips is in and out of neutral way way more than a high mile car on motorway runs and 20 year of Subaru repairs have taught me it good area check, cured couple like this and even had 1 from local Subaru dealer as they could not find fault . Worth cleaning maf element too while you doing iav, check all pipes secure and air box assembled correct, check throttle movement and throttle position sensor too, if go in for diagnosis try use someone who into Subaru/Japanese as many garage tech really are poor in knowledge and ability . Basically if you don't know how it really works you hard pushed work out realistic fault areas thus waste a lot of customer money on bad approach or unneeded new parts .

No use same drop links and arb .

I would review neutral switch . Clean valve and contacts second time and use wd40. If you into covering more diagnostic s yourself you could look at getting obd to USB cable so can use the freeSSM software which good package. Could be worth using warranty too before runs out .