Mr B

^ Sounds likely pump will initial prime with ignition on but will only power when engine cranking & reading the sensors for this, if sensors test ok check wiring connector harness . Review immobilizer circuit too as many (pending how wired in) cut pump trigger but not the prime trigger & had a few cars over years with sticky/failed relays in immobilizer modules .

you got be careful on anything changing intake, turbulent issues created by new piping or blow off valve can mess up air intake readings causing hesitation & potentially damaging engine. Lot of bolt on mods can turn into detuning rather than tuning ... evo's & scoobs have same issues as air measurement is so fine small things can really mess it up .

I reckon so John unfortunately ...

1469 is DPF soot level and it in limp home mode. 1468 is oil dilution related ...

Is another thread on here with better info on advanced test, resetting codes etc but I can't find it and rushed off feet today. Might of been in Ricky's SF turbo threads ...

You only plug in black to black to just read codes. Plugging in green ones as well extends to system test mode. Link below in thread with basic but will try put up a detailed link as many on here have wrong info or not all info on its use.

they do cross fit with many impreza early models so is a good way source a sensible priced used one . If small areas of heavy rot they very easy repair to high standard, removing them means want new bushes and bolts more than likely, couple we done turned into bigger job with rot on chassis deal with & mount captive fittings needing fabricating and welding in . heavily seized bolts in lateral links can up cost of job too .

Yeh they can be quite good, tyres & driving style making big difference. certainly reasonable for a awd not overly aerodynamic wagon . hope you keep enjoying and minor issue resolved without any drama . you'll be too busy looking for snow ice and floods to play in over the winter so likely forget about mpg lol .

11mm rotor improved pump good way go & they cheap really for insurance they give . A health run would be good, rmap can be revisited as plans manifest . Main thing after rebuild is having it running safely and without glitches as don't want be doing things twice ...

Quite a few things can cause this. Simple thing check is throttle cable setting to butterfly, is possible someone adjusted loose throttle to much and butterfly open too much, why this cause issue ? Well with more air via butterfly the iav has reduce idle by reducing air and can be beyond or on edge of its adjustment range then this code pops up, air leak can cause similar . Worth checking as seen it a few times and classic caused by service tech who no idea what doing and no knowledge on Subaru. On to neutral switch, this can be faulty or have wear on linkage which activates switch, If switch passes multimeter test fitting a thinner sealing washer is one way of curing wear in switch mechanism. Many say this high mile box only, I disagree as low mile car doing short trips is in and out of neutral way way more than a high mile car on motorway runs and 20 year of Subaru repairs have taught me it good area check, cured couple like this and even had 1 from local Subaru dealer as they could not find fault . Worth cleaning maf element too while you doing iav, check all pipes secure and air box assembled correct, check throttle movement and throttle position sensor too, if go in for diagnosis try use someone who into Subaru/Japanese as many garage tech really are poor in knowledge and ability . Basically if you don't know how it really works you hard pushed work out realistic fault areas thus waste a lot of customer money on bad approach or unneeded new parts .

No use same drop links and arb .

I would review neutral switch . Clean valve and contacts second time and use wd40. If you into covering more diagnostic s yourself you could look at getting obd to USB cable so can use the freeSSM software which good package. Could be worth using warranty too before runs out .

Fingers crossed . low mileage (short trips) can be worse for gunking up IAV, best first step is clean it unless other symptoms give clues to bigger issue . I assume your cold mast idle & hot idle all steady & sensible range ! i do a fair few IAV cleanups & on real dirty ones it favourable to be the fix, never hurts to give a second clean before expanding diagnostics approach . dirty connectors play big roll too, amount of cars get in where owner spent 200-400 on sensor replacement only to find fault coming back and many time it because of connector contacts effecting voltage readings to ecu & that fixed with a few pence really ...

cool . i want one :-)

^ that not a big worry ... removing and stripping idle valve and giving real good clean with carb/IAV cleaner & light oiling with bit of wd40 may cure, also check wiring condition & use some elec contact cleaner in the plug & socket . Neutral switch can also flag idle valve codes so that worth thinking about if step 1 of idle valve makes no difference . need fix yourself first then look at your fozzy, not worth round trip time & money to do under warranty and they only going do basics as a first step anyway .

^ good result ... Any problems or questions post in forester section if find nothing searching . Glad you like it so far, good ones make easy & cheap motoring for many years . in floods & heavy winters you'll be laughing too & enjoying the heated seats, they more useful and worthwhile than may think . Have fun ...

low to mid 30's on long runs (even better if ditch bridgestone duelers). Highish 20's is norm for chugging about short trips. One of best things can do for mileage is ditch the awful bridgestone duelers if got them for something decent like hankook optimo 4s, that improves mpg & all weather grip drastically too . If doing short runs adding 2-3psi to tyre pressures can help mpg as you never get them warm enough on short trips . I would revisit the bonnet switch, even jumping wiring to bypass switch & see result . other thing do is loosen 2 bolts on washer bottle and see if bracket at lowest settting, if slide it up and look at it you should see marks on slotted holes of it's long term position . Due to service work it highly likely been fiddled with or knocked ... 7 times out of 10 it bonnet .

Yeh bonnet switch has no effect on interior light . Check boot followed by doors & wiggle door switches. Had one in yard last week bleeping and was boot not 100% shutting . hopefully minor ... was a AWP then . you haggle price a bit ? Green is very nice when good order but shows the slightest of marks easily . They lot of car for money and good at almost everything really.

look at bonnet switch which on a bracket behind the washer bottle on n/s strut turret . these always get bent down by clumsy mechanics leaning on them or setting wrong after removing washer bottle for easier spark plug fitting (switch bracket holes slotted for height setup) and is most common cause ... check rear boot shutting proper as they do need good solid slam. Have you got pin code for alarm (has keypad in flip down box near your right knee) Advanced manual here (includes how enter a new pin code if don't have current pin) > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing if don't want alarm on just lock doors manually with key in drivers door lock (immobilizers still activate)

Treat rust quick as if left it gets bad quick. Waxoil best on subframe and inner injection of arches, shocks best removed and turrets cleaned and zinc primed followed by good coat of decent stone guard schultz . Best of luck with your new Fozzy, hope you & family love it ...

I've seen a few at a whisker under a bar when idle low. Is good have base idle around 875 to 925 . I would check wiring power source for gauges but expect it low idle and the elec load of fan dips idle further making gauge blink . I like seeing over 1 bar minimum, you may find a 10w50 helps but belt and braces would be a new pump from rcm . we bang a new oil & water pump on any turbo turbo full or partial rebuild just as insurance policy and slight benefit from better pumps. If you go for a new oil pump at some point get the new oil pickup beefed up as they kill engine in couple minutes when fail at flange . Some minor debris is normal but as your engine didn't have massive failure it should be minimal . another oil change is not a bad thing . Most important is RR run to check knock & fueling, simple issues of air leak can cause lean runing & that kills these engines quite quickly. I would pressure test intake & clean maf etc & check all basics before a RR session & hope they can pinpoint any glitches & perhaps plan a mapping session once you know what direction you going with the car .

it exempt . 05's are good buys if you fussy & take time get extra close to new condition one .

Have a look at it but check that rear end visually yourself, sales garages are full of !Removed! so I never trust them, MOT's vary a lot in opinion so look yourself as subframe and rear arch area is known issue on some and potentially expensive. waxoil is best treatment on rear ends if scaly & dry but still solid . Have a good torch handy on knock and press on the inner arches right up into the turret and inner section down where meets sill . They rot from inside and can look reasonably normal from outside ... Hopefully can see it on ramp .Keep eye out for oil leaks, even tyre wear, front nearside wing arch & rear arches get scraped alot, also look at bumper fitment & panel alignment for clues it been knocked about .

I prefer early ones . all weather also includes front screen wiper heater, they also tend get other useful extras such as headlight lens protectors, mud guards, boot liner rear bumper guard, coloured trim & alloys . Don't bother with one with corrosion advisory . Lot of people are crazy on year, chasing what newest, DON''T Old is gold, the 2003 to 2005 is best of the SG range . 2004 sounds best bet but look it over real well . SG looks good in the red colour too. £3K is top money but you should be able knock couple hundred off that minimum, getting closer to winter so demand on these gets high . If it really good order it will last for years & be no hassle with bit of basic care, good engine oil changed regular & rear subframe area wax oiled along with arches wax injected & arch well stone guarded will see it through for years .They real easy drive & super manoeuvrable with good visibility (easier park than a tiny 206 hatchback) .

If doing short trips you don't want a diesel full stop really . You need do a lot of annual mileage see real savings . The 2.0L pertol tends pay you back on fuel by lower service cost & fact it super reliable . Sticking with 2003 to 2005 could be wise to help potential risk of future road tax changes etc and less ellectronic hassles . The 2.0L petrol forester is superb, SF forester being best rugged long life vehicles subaru ever made. I prefer the early SF shape over SG & revision SG. On SG check rear arches righ up into turret and front edge to sill as rot easy due to thinner metal over the early SF (reduced weight) rear subframe needs looking at too & front wishbones for rust. Early SG like 2004-2005 will be fine & most important thing is buying good example which not worked hard. Be sure buy All Weather model as worth it long term . Auto is okay and generally find cleaner bargains are always autos . Rear SLS suspension not major concern, replacing with KYB struts is cheap . Parts in general are CHEAP . Reliability is exceptional if take time buy a good one . Red green and silver is best colours, silver most forgiving & looks nice with black or chrome protection trimming . They a good buy, super versatile and good at everything plus demand always high so easy sell on in future .