Mr B

2.0xt & 2.5xt should be same, manual or auto box !? If after complete shaft OEM try eSubaru 020 8839 0777 and give them reg number or chassis number . OEM going be around £250 to £300 Decent OE quality pattern part around £160 to £190 .

You can get very attached to a family car. I have similar issue with old 94 2.2 legacy that my father had for many many years, keep it going as it like a family member & carries lot of memories. Perhaps try friend network first as could be nice see it around and here about how it going . Is a shame having it sat about not getting used much & creating you unneeded annual bills. I'm fortunate as couple old loved cars I got can sit around the workshop, get used occasionally & covered on trade insurance so not creating to much expense. Hope it works out well for you & the car .

If likes of timing belt been recently done and all tyres a1 matching set I would possibly try 2,750 to start. Not many manuals on market so someone maybe keen. That sort of money gives lot of options on later model outbacks but obviously twice mileage. You can only sell it once and as low mileage and good owners history make most of it and hopefully you will pass it on to someone who'll appreciate it. If I have any serious requests on an outback I'll check out your selling status. Good luck .

Not too many 2.5 manuals, and even less low mileage super clean ones . If very very clean/original it worth another 50% of book prices . As a guide I would say about £2,000 I do prefer your model shape & also think the blue with 2 tone works well on the shape & against black trimming.. Coming up to time when sales improve for AWD too. Downside is many don't like the 2.5 due to head gasket problems plus many looking at 2.5 or 3.0 later model which quite cheap to buy & fair few around . Start high & see how goes, someone who after one and appreciates a clean car not going grumble as hell of a lot of car for the money & potentially a few years of trouble free enjoyable & versatile cheap motoring to boot . I'm always happy to pay 500 to 1,000 for clean original paintwork & cars that had caring owners/been garaged as pleasure of clean car & reduced small niggles & problems pays you back with interest .Sensible cost also helps it go to worthy new owner rather than some ebay bargain jack-ar5e :-)

DPF is the big box with sensors & small pipes in exhaust right at front of engine below pulleys. Do check pipes for pressure difference sensor all serviceable, not damaged, kinked, blocked ... We use a bore camera to get good look at both ends of the inner filter & rough idea of build up Pressure cleaning is last option on what appears heavily blocked DPF, good thing with pressure wash clean is can reverse flow & that gets lot of ash/soot out, can damage cat/dpf combo's if not careful plus ideally want be dried out prior to refitting . First step is seeing your soot levels & oil dilution levels & get things reset & possibly a forced regen (due to flashing dpf light) & see how goes. Using a dpf additive in fuel 3 times a year could be good practice too, Part of subaru service practice is additive in workshop & supplying bottle of fuel addative for use by owner at suggested interval . You would need good software to have forced regen, oil reset, new dpf & programming function for injector change etc .You will probably be using or want try torquePro for android phone which should give access to some useful data values . To be honest dpf in general is a problem in long term use & rather a waste really as you still produce the particulates but just waste a huge amount of manufacture parts (which have pollution value) to catch the soot which reduces efficiency (your performance & mpg is hit hard by dpf restriction in exhaust), then you waste even more fuel to spit this soot out on a regen cycle on a clear road ! Logically it counter productive much like most emission hardware. Pre dpf diesel are far far better & a modern tech diesel without dpf but with maximum design on fuel efficiency & clean burn, low manufacture pollution & long life cycle of all parts would be way better for environment :-/

Flashing is warning mode it requires forced regen . If stays in flashing mode too long it will go into limp home mode with lower power You want use something like freessm software & vag obd-usb to read ecu date/codes on the dpf . I recently purchased ssm3-4 diagnostics & training so better equipped for diesel issues (we getting quite few as dealers silly money & no complete cures, fair few on 2nd 3rd owner and they not happy with potential £300-£1,000 bill in first 6 months of ownership) At moment we can reset & gain normal dpf function but soot levels & regens can be fast in reoccurring, besides obvious sensor/injector/dpf/driving style faults other issues with firmware & hardware are yet to have suitable solutions, hopefully modded diesel roms or more knowledge on hardware issues will help better resolve in time ....

Is it steady light or flashing light. Could be worth looking at ecu firmware update status as mentioned, physically checking dpf would be good too, cleaning it out and seeing how goes could be way to start resolve, also temporary bypass to visually view soot at normal driving can be useful. early injectors can be problem and cause too much soot. Dpf is a PITA, I hate the things ...

You either have a single din or double din head unit as standard this can be swapped with many after market head units that conform to din 1 or 2 sizing . Wiring harness adapters are available too . Simpler than may appear and Google will have loads of info and videos on forester radio fitting . Lot of options, I would go with something with SD card or USB . You could also pick up a used original cd player if want cheap simple fix.

Clutch and flywheel issues Dpf/regen cycle issues Self retune issues Injector issues Crank issues Glow plug issues All issues tend be expensive with bills in thousand potentially. Later models are best but it still not an amazing diesel unfortunately . We don't trade early diesels as too much potential for customer dissatisfaction which could ruin our local reputation . Some running issues hard resolve & even Subaru don't have solutions for all unfortunatly . For those not doing massive mileage should stay with petrol/lpg . If buying one buy best can afford and have reserve funds for possible issue. Also test drive several times and some being town and b roads to see if dpf or self retune behaving . Servicing needs be spot on and any doubts in any area walk away .

Out of interest what injectors and ecu you using on your v5 ee20 transplant as wondering if cross parts of v4-v5 causing the issue, injectors different sizing etc. Dpf (basically a soot trap) is a pita and ruins modern diesels . Hot water and pressure washing can be good and cheap way of reviving heavily clogged dpf, regeneration not good when heavily blocked as regen fueling is killing engine oil and creates huge amount of heat stress too, chemical cleaning systems on running engine do work but costly and don't always resolve that long before warning light on again .

Calls to local breakers and a few Subaru specialist breakers may come up with one and your colour if very very lucky. eBay will have odd few ... I would not be over concerned on Colour and go more for a good priced bumper with no torn fitting points. Many used come with some scrapes and handling marks and if refinishing colour it no concern but if pay premium price and it marked it don't work out easy way go. Rough price would be 50-80 for used bumper, painting would be around 120, fitting not hard and 1hr or 2 pending on any fitting hassle to get nice end alignment result. Last one we done was £240 painted and fitted Inc some new clips etc. If handy with screwdriver you can remove and refit yourself so would only need get a local painter spray a supplied used bumper, if real lucky and you willing wait a bit you may find one tidy enough right colour but can be slow going that route .

As you say the squeal happens as lifting off the clutch (engaging drive) I would say it the friction plate spring hub squealing as taking up the drive . Release bearing normally makes noise as pressing it and it engages with cover fingers and put under load . Is always best do a high mileage clutch as complete kit anyway . Doesn't sound anything too serious and not overly costly .

load 87 speed V if proper winter tyres, as in snow & ice, you best on dedicated 16" rim & 205 width. if more cold wet weather rubber formula winter tyre then 17" fine. Dedicated snow winter tyres generally have lower speed ratings, if using lower speed ratings best contact insurers & get written approval as they can be funny on things like this at claim time .

yes is sad , the diesel has cost them a lot of reputation points. Amazed how slack the engineering was on it & how poor customer service has been on all the diesel fault areas . Trouble also will be as diesels age & cost fortune to fix it will hit reputation even further making the legendary reliability & 250,000 mile with ease a thing of the past . Ideally want go to subaru dealer in person & do some research first, even if help you out bill will be as much or more as options from non dealer specialist . best option is later model diesel swap but sourcing can be slow .

I prefer oem or blueprint as quality is far far better & they don't leak, if use cheaper pattern ones you run risks of hassle with poor fit & light leaks . Blueprint can be found cheap if shop around, even oem subaru comes up cheap at times . Hard to beat oem gasket & seals for stuff like this. Lightly greasing them holds in place & helps them smoothly bed in as bolts tightened. Review manual for your specific model for any finer points .

If using oem gasket set I would not use silicone & if do use a quality gasket silicone neatly & minimal application. I've done 2 engine builds directly due to diy sump & rocker silicone use so be careful with the stuff as once gasket seated & clamped silicone got no where go besides outer or inner edge of gasket & in time these bits of silicone break off & work through oil passages & are very good at blocking them . I only use oem or blueprint gaskets, most others more hassle than the small saving in price worth .

Glad you getting somewhere. Unfortunate the diesels so expensive & prone to some nasty problems ...

Check the bonnet sensor has not been bent out of position or wiring damaged .

key with transponder chip programmed (copied from other oem key) is about £30 If have the sigma m30 alarm then you can get fobs off ebay & they can be programmed to alarm easily by yourself, don't fall into dealer trap or silly money fees . fobs are anything from £15 range . Do be aware you have two alarm parts, the subaru oem transponder chip in key head that controls ecu inbuilt immobiliser (eu cars must have this) second is the cat1 alarm fob (sigma made the cover & board to fit standard subaru remote locking all in one key & fob) *Any decent auto key cutter can do the key cut & key transponder programming. *Any matching button (have 1 button & 2 button option) m30 fob can be programmed to your sytem *You should also have a manual 4 digit code to use in alarm keypad found in coin flip down tray near driver right knee , don't panic if don't have code as easy program new one as long as have at least one working remote (sort pin code first/quick to save serious hassle ;-) ) Your car dealer should indeed refund cost but it easily sorted . I do at least 2 key/fob jobs a month, is also possible buy built in fob key from breaker or online & swap the key shank (cut, lapped & rivet, & swap/fit small transponder chip into the button fob section . links below to help > m30 alarm manual > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

Pic 5 looks like a jecs map sensor for original engine (take part numbers off it & google them) igniter job is controlling voltage pulse to the primary winding of coilpacks. biggest area of fault on those ignitions was igniter unit itself or wiring/plug harness or coilpacks split/insulation failing .

stripping out & making new cowl to suit . couple threads on here but not sure how much detail in them, really not hard & potentially massive functional benefit to the XT . If vehicle is a good one it not a concern and potentially a nice little personalization tweak .

they are pretty much junk, best option is removing it & custom fitting something that you like . Android based would be good & could display ecu obd2 data too . Not too hard to do but space will limit options .

Blueprint bearing kit or Koyo or NTN will only be £30 region . They the only 3 brands we use, Blueprint easy enough find online at decent price, Koyo or NTN best sourced via bearing retailer (we use Bearing-Shop exeter) Cheap bearing tool set which looks same as one we bought from machinemart vat free day is below http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wheel-Bearing-Removal-Professional-Tool-Set-Kit-For-Front-Wheel-Drive-Heavy-Duty-/262347012598 bearing tool allows removal & fitting on vehicle and as supports bearing correctly during fitting assembly you don't ruin bearing fitting it. We charge £40 for fitting unless have issues & need remove hub . It prety simple with right tools & once done 1 or 2 you can do them quick & as good as factory built hub . Standard 3 leg & clam shell puller also handy as is a press, cheap home use 6tonne press can be had for £50, 12tonne around £90 .

The extra constant heat from brake dragging would of damaged bearing .You can buy bearing hub (blueprint do it, £115 roughly) You can buy quality bearing for £30, buy a wheel bearing removal fitting tool set (about 35-45 £ on likes of ebay) We use a removal fitting tool set & if use quality jap bearings never get issue . Have a cheap £45 bearing removal/fitting set too & it works as good as our £300 set but probably not for as long lol but it good enough for occasional use ... Rough fitting or using cheap bearings like febest, optimal etc lead to constant hassle Good bearing fitting tool set/press & koyo, ntn, blueprint etc lead to proper reliable rebuilt hub .

just buy a double or 2 single 12V usb car chargers & wire them directly from fused supply ideally acc switched.. Just buy reasonably decent branded ones not 99p junk. if you just added a double usb socket to a single charger then it probably overloaded it. Circuit for converting 12V to 5V usb is quite simple & board inside the cigarette adaptors is small & easily removed & custom mounted if wanted .