Mr B

That rather silly & unsafe. Part numbers below, easy cheap fix, you may want speak to springcoil,co.uk & order some custom spring rates & height to get bit of lift & match tow weight. replace with KYB part numbers below > Right Absorber KYB 334344 Left Absorber KYB 334345 Coilover Springs KYB RC6431 Links below: Struts > http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4acf49e9a4 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35d1361cbb Struts option 2 (different seller, prices keep fluctuating) http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5670881d2b http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27f89a5c97 Springs > http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35d15f54b7 Springs option 2 (sold in pair) http://www.ebay.co.u...=item234a7547fe Boot kit > http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4ad3cbe2b0

The grey is nice, want one myself sometime down the road ...

^ I not so worried about the battery as I would be about leaving cheap chinese electronics plugged into my ecu unattended. I've had 1 customer with ecu damage due to OBD use. Also worth testing your OBD devices on your wifes car before using on the Subaru :-D If leaving in make the effort & wire the live feed to obd via acc switched relay as simple to to do.

If leaving these in long term you best making a wiring mod to the power feed in the OBD plug so it on once ign moved through ACC & off when key removed.

rear boot trim is easily removed for spraying or wrapping. copy boot spoiler quality varies so need check your seller well. Boot needs drilling for fixing so not super easy.

Buy the hub, you can bolt that on easily yourself.

unfortunately yes it is :-D Would be good if they revised the law on front plate size a little

Not a bad idea do arm bushes, bolt on those normally seized solid so worth soaking that in penetrating oil & pre test removal. if won't budge order new bolt/nut as will need cut them off. Bearing best done with press as easy damage them without .

LH front bearing . bearing kit is around £80 to £100 for decent one. I get SNR bearing hubs for around £75 & ADL (blueprint) around £100 Labour is 1hr charge generally ...

can't really grease these sealed cartridge bearings. New OEM NTN or NSK bearing kit is only £42ish, they easy do with press or on car if you have a hub bearing puller kit at hand.

^ as above. due to 4wd & viscous diff you can't spin the wheel freely to here the noise & even when noisy the bearing normally has no play so not easy picked up. I run the vehicles with wheels off ground & use a stethoscope to listen for noise, mix that with a test drive & it normally very easy tell it a bearing & which one.

diesel fitting will be very expensive, whole ecu & wiring needs grafting in along with fuel system mods & pairing to your current autobox would not be easy or as favourable as a manual. Best bet is replacing headgaskets on your current lump, get some more quotes from people who know these engines, i've done several 2.5's & chance you need a block skim for the usual gasket breakdown failure is highly unlikely.

wheel bearing ! On a straight road get in the 'noise zone' and rock the car right to left quite swiftly & see if noise goes away as load range on wheel hubs change. Could be tyres as well winding up transmission which gets re-leaved on a corner, I have seen a few issues similar due to mix of tyres, it never a good thing on a awd like the subarus.

Don't sound bad for 895quid :-) trackrod ends are like £10 each & brake pads not expensive. picking up a rear light lens from salvage should be easy if hunt around a bit for good one & good price. Tyres not super cheap but if all a bit ropy you best getting a full set really. 140k not a lot if it been looked after so should be nice & reliable. Expect to see a least one 'I Love Cornwall' sticker in any future pics :-)

I would not mess around wih sourcing another engine, you never know how good it will be, price won't be much cheaper & the 2.5 engine is prone to HG failure in general. Best route is replacing the gaskets on your current engine unless got other faults such as piston slap, bottom end rattles, oil consumption etc. I do prefer doing heads with engine out but in order of making jobs viable cost to owners you can do a proper decent job with engine in situ. Highlly unlikely block needs skimming as issue is gasket breakdown. Just pull the inlet manifold off, remove side engine mounts & lift engine & push to one side to maxmise work space then pushed opposite way for work on other side.. Heads are best decoked & minimal skim along with valve lap etc. Block can be cleaned with scotch brite & checked wih level & if fine finished with wet & dry on flat block. Only use genuine revision headgaskets or the Blueprint headgasket overhaul kit if need all the extra seals. I would estimate that job done well at around 1,580Euro for good effort & top quality parts & that would include engine flush, new synthetic oil/filter, new cambelt kit, coolant, all new seals/bolts as needed Most important thing on the 2.5 is quality coolant & decent synthetic oil changed every 12months at least.

Don't think I would put my money down not knowinf exactly what it going look like ....

pretty easy on a diesel get quite chunk of power without much supporting changes, diesel power is very much linked to amount of diesel injected & air ratio to fuel is not such a fine tolerance as petrol . stress on engine & fuel economy are major downfalls. Newer diesels will have limitations how far go as dpf will be a major restriction for a start & potential for problems & hard to work around with legal emision requirements.

With age of the SF most owners looking at cheaper repair options for the saggy butt issue on the old fozzy. while it is possible buy new no name shocks for the SF for 80<>90£ you are best not doing so as they are generally junk. New SLS from Subaru Main Stealers would set you back around £700 just for 2 shocks :-O Using German Optimal brand shocks we can have a reasonable quality pair of shocks for £101 (price/supply keeps changing so do new search) These are non SLS (SLS only available from Subaru) so will need new springs to match & at 15+ years old you best with new springs any way. Suplex do pair of springs for £47 Add to this a KYB fitting kit which consists of 2 new bump blocks & 2 new shock boots at £23 & you have a complete repair solution for £171 (£85.50 a side) Main reason this option is low cost currently is competive price on Optimal shocks & fact Suplex springs are on offer. If you find the standard original strut top mounts to be beyond reuse new is £40 each for monroe brand or £52 for KYB optimal struts & Suplex springs have 12months warranty & are good products and end result is very pleasing with vehicle sitting pert & ride far far better than the 15yr+ sls . Subarus don't have to be expensive, actually cheaper than say a frelander-1 td4 for most general repair plus all the subaru elec windows & sunroof work & the boot not full of water like the Land Rover baby Hippo :-D ... * Parts based on SF 1997 to 2002 non turbo Turbo & sport forester have 15mm lower suspension They do physically fit but specific springs are available for the turbo from suplex, I would recommend KYB excel G struts & springs for the Turbo & maybe sport if budget allows. Optimal Struts, Rear Left A-3561GL Rear Right A-3561GR (sold as pair)> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-FORESTER-2-0-1997-2002-NEW-REAR-LEFT-RIGHT-SHOCK-ABSORBER-/301510004424?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item4633658ec8 *KYB Excel at great price (sold as pair with boots & stops)> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBERS-SUBARU-FORESTER-97-02-Protection-KIT-KYB-334191-334192-/181943999053?hash=item2a5cb51a4d:g:Z4EAAOSwnipWWFak You can use SG struts & they at super price at moment (£40 each), they give about 30mm extra height when fitted to SF as the spring perch is higher on SG strut but all else same. http://www.ebay.co.u...4-/231696653638 http://www.ebay.co.u...5-/321872620069 Suplex Springs> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Spring-SUP032034-/141542632909?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASF&hash=item20f4992dcd KYB bump/boot Protection kit> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Protection-Kit-To-Fit-A-SUBARU-FORESTER-KYB-910072-/161277879413?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item258ce92475 Strut top mounts if needed> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=kyb+910072&_sop=15&_from=R40|R40|R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xforester+sf+rear+strut+top.TRS0&_nkw=forester+sf+rear+strut+top&_sacat=0 Links above are a guide & via eBay due to availability to all, worth checking good local motorfactors for a price match or searching a bit more as prices constantly change & bargains can be found when factors are clearing older range stock. KYB SF part numbers if needed (easy cross these to other brands such as Sachs etc) > Right Absorber KYB 334191 Left Absorber KYB 334192 Protecton boots/bumps KYB 910072 Coilover Springs KYB RA5761 SG 2003<>2008 rear struts is well covered here> http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7216-2005-forester-xt-rear-sls-unit-leaking/ Are your old struts SLS !? Well lot of myths on this like: lime green on SF is SLS, SG has fluid canister on side of strut & sh looks like a normal black strut ! Reality is the lime green tends be found on very first couple year models of SF, later ones around 99 to 2002 are all black & look like standard shocks. Even Pedders list wrong info on SLS identification so do your homework. Best way to tell is either via part number on shock or looking at spring diameter as springs on SLS are thinner than non SLS. SLS shocks have a lot of pressure on the piston & better condition ones are real hard push rods in by hand once stripped down. Below are part numbers listed to strut type. Part numbers for Non-Self Levelling struts right hand side 20360FC100 20360FC101 20360FC120 20360FC140 left hand side 20360FC110 20360FC111 20360FC130 20360FC150 Part numbers for Self Levelling Struts SLS right hand side 20360FC200 20360FC220 20360FC221 20360FC240 left hand side 20360FC210 20360FC230 20360FC231 20360FC250 Below is diagram & spec on ride height of SF, measure is from centre of hub to arch inner face Pics of optimal struts & suplex springs on a 1999 SF GLS we done (original strut is Tokico 20360FC250) . You can see the old SLS spring is thinner than the new non SLS spring .

I wouldn't have wrong one fitted. If did come with wrong one best left until right one supplied.

Had one of the below linked systems for a SG Forester 2.0X 2004 supplied by customer for fitting. For the price they seem very good, heavy & quite good fitting with complete gasket, bolts nuts washers springs & mount rubbers. They paid I believe £53 (made offer) for the SG system & £12 P&P so that £65 for complete cat back exhaust, better quility than my local supplier budget system & probably better than most mid range stuff. The SF could be had for £50 plus £12 P&P I expect , SF fit 97 to 2002 2.0 non turbo models http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-2-0-Subaru-Impreza-2-0-16V-1995-2002-Silencer-Exhaust-System-A66-/371662903226 SG fits 2002 to 2008 2.0X non turbo models http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-2-0-SG-92-KW-125-HP-2002-2008-Silencer-Exhaust-System-858-/400637858938

I suppose it some sort of progress but as you bought it & complained about the fault within a week they should of done it %100 under mix of subaru warranty & the sale warranty. Any dealer with half a brain would of known that clutch not right so putting it for sale like that is well out of order, I know subaru not keen on admitting the early diesels had clutch flywheel issues but reality is they did & they know all about it but like to fluff it all over :-S Hope all is well though & you get a good run of reliability from the car.

I use these aero vu blades & have done for almost 3yrs without issue. Better than blades from local motorfactors & parts store that 3x the price. front set SF SG http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/21-19-Front-Aero-Flat-Windscreen-Wiper-Blades-Retro-Fit-Upgrade-V5-/290910050705?fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item43bb971991:g:iY4AAOxybLpRgo-f rear blade (15" can work on both SF & SG) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-Rear-Aero-Flat-Wiper-Blade-Subaru-Forester-1997-To-/270709938378?hash=item3f0791d8ca:m:mXKGlI_0cXp-pCkyrSMGf4Q Front & rear set SF http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-SUV-Aero-VU-Front-Rear-Flat-Window-Windscreen-Wiper-Blades-/301868954787?fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item4648cab4a3:g:CS0AAOSwQYZWuiT3 Front & rear set SG http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SG-SUV-Aero-VU-Front-Flat-Specific-Fit-Rear-Wiper-Blades-/291681598464?fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item43e993fc00:g:f90AAOSwe7BWuwzE SF to SG >2008 are all same blade fitting & size front driver 21" passenger 19" rear 15" for SF 14" for SG (if specific fit) Only had one complaint over winter (fit loads of them) & that was because clip for hook had broke, do believe probably due to wiper frozen to screen but easy fixed . I use the aero's on front & the totally flat back blade 15" for rears. The rear wipes far better being a spring steel blade , looks better plus does not collect 5hit & snow like standard blades Even my MOT garage started stocking these after my customer cars going in with them over the 5hit they been using from motorfactors.

Factory wheel mod is no different to what guys are doing really as they do not use a modded boot deck, main difference is neater finish unless you really go to town on your home conversion To be honest it very easy strip boot so tyre low as possible then build up floor to suiite & use original floor covering. Also very easy fit a ring bolted to floor to secure wheel if can not find any suitable fixings for a ratchet strap. Half price at £200 from dealer not too bad but £400 is a joke for something that should be standard, could of easily dipped the boot to fit a purpose made but full size steel spare. Not too bad in the UK but if I was in France or Oz or Canada with just a can of gunk it could be a disaster :-/

Simplest way is 1" spacers on top hats & either add to that with 1" springs (king springs or custom from springcoil,co.uk) or add slightly bigger tyres such as 215 over 205 or 75 profile over 70 Spacer & tyres gets about 1.25 to 1.75 inch lift Spacer & spring gets 2.0 inch lift Spacer spring & tyres gets you 2.25 to 2.75 inch lift ** Do note you can not use lift springs with standard SLS struts (Change to KYB excel G)** 2 inches is about as much as need really, any more needs the rear trailing arm repositioned with custom bracket. done the odd lift with custom spacers & brackets for farmers & the likes. Tyres are a good lift as gain on clearance of wishbone too plus most people wanting a lift want more biased off road tyre Your sagging issue sounds like SLS rear struts may be faulty !

For exhaust you best going with custom at around £400 at most for cat back. Any issues with y section you best getting good used. Wishbones are same as other SG models, doubt you need wishbone unless it bent or corroded, what you probably need is wishbone rear bush & that £26 on ebay, wishbone balljoint & that £9.99 on eBay. Front wishbone bush rarely needs doing but if does you can use a polybush & that £17.10 on eBay if Wishbone is bent corroded once again pick up a good used one, they same as on any SG Wishbone rear bush = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200824608138 Balljoint = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-96-14-Front-Lower-High-Quality-Ball-Joint-STB-STi-XT-X-SF-SG-/351320021782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASG&hash=item51cc4e1b16 Polybush = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-SG-Impreza-GC-GD-Legacy-BC-BD-BE-Front-wishbone-front-bush-/271423547325?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f321aa7bd ICP parts http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts?cat=96⊂=494 will be useful to you along with any local motorfactor that specialise in jap & deals with BluePrint & SolidAce parts If stuck post what need with good descriptive detail & we will link you to it, almost everything can be crossed to standard forester SG or impreza turbo .