Mr B

Only issue with not declaring is in proper accident when you have no opportunity of swapping to original & vehicle gets looked at buy inspection engineer you run risk of insurers giving you the middle finger & voiding your cover. Playing ignorant don't work either, insurance companies love people who do it as it like giving them the cover money for no cover. Shop around as a fair few specialist insurers would not want extra for those sort of basic changes. recirc is best on MAF sensors anyway really, if you log the MAF readings & fuelling with wideband you would see why.

Nothing scaremongering about it, recirc on maf systems keeps measured air & fuelling far better during change than an atmospheric. Everyone likes the 'woosh' & tuners happy take your $ Some atmospheric valves are less problematic & certain MAF systems more sensitive to atmospherics so results vary.

double post :-S

With MAF sensor you far better sticking with recirc, if you datalog a non recirc they normally always have some issues with fuelling being less than perfect directly after opening period, in worst cases you get hesitation, combination of some valves & MAFs being worse.

If after performance throw the valve in the bin. Open venting is nothing but a noise mod with downsides.

^ Mmm looks that way, I've looked at hundreds over the years & generally can sense a good car from the ad & a chat on phone. You got look well though & test everything, also ignore the seller & use your own judgement. Hopefully you learnt bit more & will get it right next purchase :-S

I'm in the trade & I almost never buy from dealers. dealers are the worst for lies, over pricing tat & ripping you off Best cars are always found privately ... Faults don't sound too bad but certainly going make expensive car :-/ Not a good start but hopefully no more issues arise ... good luck.

Get your money back & learn from experience to check a car thoroughly. I always try buy private as better cars, better people & better prices.

Import from UK perspective of docks to registered is super straight forward for 10yr+ old cars. Biggest hassle is buying blind besides pics & vids, it ok for import companies as they have staff/agents but even then they get some 5hit, Torque GT very near me & I done reports for buyers a few times over the years & I see a fair bit of scruff. Ideally you need view in person & have japanese export firm handle japan to uk docks.

do it quick while have a working remote. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/1543-alarm-system/#entry24257 Is easy add remotes too so you could pick a spare remote up at a later date off eBay m30 useful manual> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

That rather silly & unsafe. Part numbers below, easy cheap fix, you may want speak to springcoil,co.uk & order some custom spring rates & height to get bit of lift & match tow weight. replace with KYB part numbers below > Right Absorber KYB 334344 Left Absorber KYB 334345 Coilover Springs KYB RC6431 Links below: Struts > http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4acf49e9a4 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35d1361cbb Struts option 2 (different seller, prices keep fluctuating) http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5670881d2b http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27f89a5c97 Springs > http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35d15f54b7 Springs option 2 (sold in pair) http://www.ebay.co.u...=item234a7547fe Boot kit > http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4ad3cbe2b0

The grey is nice, want one myself sometime down the road ...

^ I not so worried about the battery as I would be about leaving cheap chinese electronics plugged into my ecu unattended. I've had 1 customer with ecu damage due to OBD use. Also worth testing your OBD devices on your wifes car before using on the Subaru :-D If leaving in make the effort & wire the live feed to obd via acc switched relay as simple to to do.

If leaving these in long term you best making a wiring mod to the power feed in the OBD plug so it on once ign moved through ACC & off when key removed.

rear boot trim is easily removed for spraying or wrapping. copy boot spoiler quality varies so need check your seller well. Boot needs drilling for fixing so not super easy.

Buy the hub, you can bolt that on easily yourself.

unfortunately yes it is :-D Would be good if they revised the law on front plate size a little

Not a bad idea do arm bushes, bolt on those normally seized solid so worth soaking that in penetrating oil & pre test removal. if won't budge order new bolt/nut as will need cut them off. Bearing best done with press as easy damage them without .

LH front bearing . bearing kit is around £80 to £100 for decent one. I get SNR bearing hubs for around £75 & ADL (blueprint) around £100 Labour is 1hr charge generally ...

can't really grease these sealed cartridge bearings. New OEM NTN or NSK bearing kit is only £42ish, they easy do with press or on car if you have a hub bearing puller kit at hand.

^ as above. due to 4wd & viscous diff you can't spin the wheel freely to here the noise & even when noisy the bearing normally has no play so not easy picked up. I run the vehicles with wheels off ground & use a stethoscope to listen for noise, mix that with a test drive & it normally very easy tell it a bearing & which one.

diesel fitting will be very expensive, whole ecu & wiring needs grafting in along with fuel system mods & pairing to your current autobox would not be easy or as favourable as a manual. Best bet is replacing headgaskets on your current lump, get some more quotes from people who know these engines, i've done several 2.5's & chance you need a block skim for the usual gasket breakdown failure is highly unlikely.

wheel bearing ! On a straight road get in the 'noise zone' and rock the car right to left quite swiftly & see if noise goes away as load range on wheel hubs change. Could be tyres as well winding up transmission which gets re-leaved on a corner, I have seen a few issues similar due to mix of tyres, it never a good thing on a awd like the subarus.

Don't sound bad for 895quid :-) trackrod ends are like £10 each & brake pads not expensive. picking up a rear light lens from salvage should be easy if hunt around a bit for good one & good price. Tyres not super cheap but if all a bit ropy you best getting a full set really. 140k not a lot if it been looked after so should be nice & reliable. Expect to see a least one 'I Love Cornwall' sticker in any future pics :-)

I would not mess around wih sourcing another engine, you never know how good it will be, price won't be much cheaper & the 2.5 engine is prone to HG failure in general. Best route is replacing the gaskets on your current engine unless got other faults such as piston slap, bottom end rattles, oil consumption etc. I do prefer doing heads with engine out but in order of making jobs viable cost to owners you can do a proper decent job with engine in situ. Highlly unlikely block needs skimming as issue is gasket breakdown. Just pull the inlet manifold off, remove side engine mounts & lift engine & push to one side to maxmise work space then pushed opposite way for work on other side.. Heads are best decoked & minimal skim along with valve lap etc. Block can be cleaned with scotch brite & checked wih level & if fine finished with wet & dry on flat block. Only use genuine revision headgaskets or the Blueprint headgasket overhaul kit if need all the extra seals. I would estimate that job done well at around 1,580Euro for good effort & top quality parts & that would include engine flush, new synthetic oil/filter, new cambelt kit, coolant, all new seals/bolts as needed Most important thing on the 2.5 is quality coolant & decent synthetic oil changed every 12months at least.