Mr B

earlier models had the split pin & splined stub shaft from gearbox turbo or non turbo. Pin is fork pivot & pulled out so fork can be cleared from pull bearing rather than the awful way of doing it on likes of evos.

What JDM model was that Rick...

across the range. pull type covers potentially have more pressure capability & retain desirable clutch pedal load effort.

Yeh your clutch is pull type on the turbo hence pulling shaft out for release fork . His fozzy is normal push type. Think gearbox is about 57kg.

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts.asp?cat=96⊂=494&sec=1540&var=60&dc=y Blueprint do them too so any decent autofactors should be able help. ICP stuff is !Removed! good though & many time these parts are same source as original subaru parts .

Read page 1 & 2 of thread below & have a go at reading fault codes. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/ If no codes try testing the ignition module against service manual data.

Yep well that ignition pack could be at fault along with some other things such as crank/cam timings sensors as if not picking up timing signal it will not fire ignition. Simple things like fuses relays need checking too ... What exact year version Fozzy you got ! picking up a bluetooth OBD dongle & using free software for your android phone or PC software (ask me for link) will give you access to codes, pre OBD2 compliant Fozzy can be checked by joining plugs under dash & reading CEL flash codes. You can also buy a ISO9141 compliant OBD2 VAG to USB cable for less than £4 on eBay & use that with the free FreeSSM software & you got almost dealer quality diagnostics. really is guess work at moment so fault codes need look at then checking possible components & harnesses via multimeter if nothing basic seen ...

either you got fixings left at bottom or indeed it corrosion on bottom studs. dowls can hold a bit (one either side at about 3 & 9 oclock) try heating casing around lower studs if penetrating oil no help. Had a few tight but alway budged with bit of prying near studs & box rocking. Ideally want support front engine as will droop down at front as box weight taken off engine, also lifting engine at front a little eases removal & fitting as gives more direct line.

Worth double checking all round for missed bolt. They do hold a bit on the dowls & bottom long studs sometimes . Download the service manual EU.pdf from link below & review gearbox removal, although not overly helpful it may give you some insight confidence in the job. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2003/

what bearing ? Kits come with 2 release bearings to cover options or was spigot the issue !

Exedy stage 1 clutch kit. Wouldn't bother with lightened flywheel on road car but nice refinishing/skimming on current one is a must for a proper job. Like Ricky says the box on the subaru as damn easy, far easier than many front wheel drive cars & you have quite good room around it for working. Other plus is nut & bolt quality is far better than french & german tat & some thought on dismantling is visible in sizing & design of things so compared to a hdi pug it an absolute pleasure of a job :-)

Always surprised me more alarm makers didn't play on making key & fob all in one as selling feature as to be honest it is !Removed! better & would of been easy either via custom blanks or chopping standard key into a adaptable fob holder ! The Sigma is only one that has key & fob in one that i'm aware of, it based on the remote key 2 button fob like you have & you open it up & replace the board for a sigma one & comes with new cover for the key. Possible rip one out of a scrapped Subaru, I had one a few years ago as a friendly breaker had a forester breaker in & I noticed 2keys with inbuilt remotes in the car so decided spend few hours pulling the system out as price was cheap & spares handy. As you going need paperwork for insurance you ideally going need go new. Going with something that seems easy use for your needs & reasonable on support in your area & online info is good. Clifford is a bit over rated as is over priced.

Is a bit of a pain on the 4wd's when one tyre needs doing. Exactly what best or workable option comes down to what other axle tyre condition like. If it almost new then 1 new matching tyre could be used, if excessively worn so rolling diameter going differ too much then 2 new on same axle is best. If excessive rolling diameter between both axles is likely as all tyres well worn then a complete set is good idea. On 4wd it very good idea keep matching brand & wear on complete car or axle at minimum. Davids tip on rotate is good, don't have go silly on this but once or twice in tyre set life is normally all that needed in getting most from the tyres. **** tyres & mismatched tyres makes the 4wd kind of useless & possibly troublesome .. Upside is the Subarus if setup ok & no suspension issues are good on tyre wear so a set should wear quite well without much rotating hassle.

Well if that resolves piston slap post me the empty can & I will eat it. For sure additives can help in some engine matters but chances on proper piston slap is a no really .

Good start to the day & more enjoyable than a soggy weetabix :-)

Lol , I do feel better after the rant :-) Productive day today & not going off the rails :-P No snickers but we have fresh decent large proper bakery doughnuts on a Friday lunch :-)

wasted most of my morning moaning over 8 & I'm not even using it besides on spare notebook :-S

^ You're fired ... lol

Yeh I would probably go with half decent cat1 system & dump the teardrop transponder & the key with fob. I would get 2 standard metal keys cut, maybe on scooby or STI emblem blanks & have the cat1 alarm fobs work the central locking direct. easy live with over current setup plus insurance will like cat1 cert. I quite like autowatch, sigma & Cobra alarms but worth doing some research so buy something you happy with, alarms are quite cheap these days ... Those touch style immobilisers are normally only done as cheapest option for importers (about £75 trade)

I'll send you a tub of Vaseline & a strip of leather to bite on ... Most worthwhile things in life require some unpleasantness at first :-)

Transponder dongle looks like a Sterling to me possibly ! Maybe Toad but they normally have toad brand moulded on them !

You don't have an alarm do you !? or have you got a sigma as well !?, the 2 buttons on the key are purely remote central locking from factory unless upgraded by a sigma. When imported your JDM car would of had the tear drop transponder immobiliser fitted as part of UK conversion as vehicles of that age in UK need an immobiliser as minimum security requirement to pass testing. Your particular touch type transponder is a bit crap to use. What paperwork do you have for alarm as UK insurance would want this so you should have something. UK cars came with transponder inbuilt into key along with remote central locking. Sigma was a full secondary alarm option from UK Subaru dealers & added to work with original key fob housing. If you don't want use the teardrop touch responder you will have to remove & upgrade immobiliser/alarm system & have certificate for insurance ...

Doubt they will be much use and if can help will cost silly money probably. Grey import would probably of been done in UK but could be after-market Japan perhaps. Find out what make it is, if can not tell by fob then finding the brain under dash is needed & hopefully has model numbers so a spare key & programming instructions can be sourced.

No, key has transponder chip inside which needs be detected by receiver near ign barrel. get key cut with a transponder is only around £30 or less if shop about then you can use that key along with keypad. You have to remember you actually have 2 immobilizers, 1 being standard subaru with key transponder & ecu immobiliser & 2 being the Sigma in your case.

Thing is if CEL light comes on for faults like throttle sensor etc the codes will be stored. CEL for misfire will not store so would be good check/replace leads & plugs just to rule out basics. I have done a few scoobs with what seemed odd fault to turn into leads normally & on boosted motors plug & lead faults can be triggered by boost pressure as effects spark resistance.