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Greenmamba

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  1. The wheel bearing you had replaced could be one problem. The bearings have a tone ring which communicates with the sensor mounted on the hub and measures rotations etc, used in cruise control etc. If a bearing used doesn't send readable signals this could trip codes and disable cruise.
  2. Howdy and welcome
  3. Hoping I can contribute a bit, I picked up the following from another site I follow (tribute to Cardoc). Whether any of it works for you, no idea but there you are. Make of it what you will. This code simply means that somewhere in the chain of events that controls the overall performance of the engine there is a problem and you have to find it.List of possibilities:Fuel quality (low quality fuel a/k/a no-name petrol)Fuel quantity (filter or pump issue)ignition issues (plugs, wires, coils injector flow)temperature control (too high or too low)vacuum leaksexhaust leaks (not only an annoying noise, but it effects proper value reporting to the ECM by the AF and O2 sensors)poor amperage conductivity (i.e. battery or cabling)Sensor issues can be:MAF (Mass Air Flow Meter)MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature)AF (Air/Fuel ratio a.k.a. Front O2 which can be a single bank 1 for 4 cyl)O2 (This is the actual O2 behind the CAT that lets the computer know how the CAT is functioning) Good luck anyway!!
  4. Mr B - thanks, appreciated. Much more affordable than what I've managed to source so far. I'll ping them my reg.
  5. Thanks, appreciated. I was hoping for something a little less costly as the whole car only cost about 3x what these pipes would cost! It may come to that in the end though.
  6. My 2006 OB exhaust is blowing at the 'y' joint just before the last silencers. Anyone able to recommend a reliable garage or welder to repair, generally nearby Maidstone Kent? I've costed price of OEM parts (centre pipe and silencers, both would need replacing cause the flanges are shot and won't take unbolting) - comes to ridiculous £1100 plus fitting. Thanks
  7. You're welcome. Not the first to be caught out by that one!
  8. If that switch was on, all park lights would've been on overnight, draining the battery.
  9. Switch on top of the steering column isn't on, is it?
  10. Are you asking Legacy diesel to OB diesel? Ratios may be different, not sure about mountings. Obviously, differing diff ratios wouldn't work front to rear.
  11. There is a magnetic tone ring built into the wheel bearing on that model of OB. Replace with a good (OEM, SKF, Timken, etc). Would solve the noise, probably will clear the abs code if it is the cause.
  12. If the cat has actually disintegrated inside, you must have more bad luck than I - Subaru cats are considered very robust. Rattling is usually heat shields. Have there been any fault codes, or drop in performance recently?
  13. Why do you think it needs a new cat? If it's only because there's an error code on the CEL, there can be other causes as well such as vacuum or exhaust leaks etc.
  14. I dont know if it has any real effect - I do it because live in a hard water area and try to avoid scaling of the water/coolant passages.
  15. Confirm you are checking with the motor running, in park?
  16. Have you checked the tranny fluid level and colour?
  17. The transmission probably didn't enjoy having different tyres fitted on it - awd vehicles prefer similar rolling diameters all round. How's the auto fluid look/level etc?
  18. That is one generous offer! Sure it cant be fixed/have you gotten quotes?
  19. How's the power steering fluid level in the reservoir and are there any bubbles in it when the motors running?
  20. Have you checked that the power steering belt is on?
  21. Maybe, maybe the 2007 series take a different fluid to the 2006's. It could be kosher.
  22. It should have a reddish tinge, assuming you are testing the tranny and not the front diff!
  23. A simple drain and fill of the tranny will yield about 4 litres. Garages usually just do that much each time the car is in for major service. Noting there's over 10 litres full, several drain and fills eventually gets a majority of fresh fluid in. A full flush (using recovery/replacement) on the other hand is more comprehensive but can, I believe disturb waxes/sludge etc. I've not done that, just drain and fills.
  24. Have you checked both the level, and condition of the transmission fluid? Needs checking with engine running in park. probably wouldn't hurt anyway to do a coupleof drains and refill with fresh fluid if you don't know how old the fluid is. My car doesn't have the "graunch" upon accelerating from standstill, inaudible but is sort of felt through the steering wheel for no more than a split second. Thirdly it almost refuses to accelerate in "I" mode without nearly 50% throttle, often causing the slight shudder" you report, with 157k miles on the clock. Interested about the Terraclean, thought about it myself but hesitated. Might give it a go.
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