Greenmamba

Thanks a lot. I probably should'a looked there first. Friday I guess I know what I'm doing!

Mr B Me again and again with question about siren - how big are these? My reason for asking is I've just spent 3 hours taking the glove box, passenger side kick panel, centre console apart trying to find the siren without joy. All I found was a Sigma 30 black plastic box (control module I think) fastened to a frame attached to the blower motor. I tried tracing the leads marked siren but got lost when the wires disappeared into the dash further/into a loom).Is it possible the horn would be tucked below the cowl panel (plastic section across the car, below the widnscreen and in which the wiper motor/linkages sit?

Thanks guys, will have a search this weekend.

Mr B - any idea where the siren may be located? When mine beeps, sounds like it's coming from within the dashboard, centre, behind radio/climate control etc. I'd be grateful for a steer, thing's driving me crazy.

Mr B - how do I go about checking the pp3 battery or are they only replaceable by dealer/Sigma? I have random, single beeps which might be caused by this battery going flat.

I'm hoping the diagram loads OK, attached pdf. The diagram gives an idea of where the retainers (2 screws and 3 hook pawls) are located to get to the fog light switches. centre console picture.pdf

Are you sure they don't work? Some cars, the rear fogs wont come on unless the front fogs and/or headlights are on. If the switch has to come out, you'll have to remove half the centre console. The real tricky bit comes in getting to the 2 allen screws located hidden up within the ash tray area. Take the ashtray out completely, try and look up inside (behind the front panel, may need a mirror). There are 2 screws which need removing. After that, just clips around but also the connector for the ashtray light and the cigarette lighter need disconnecting.

I bought a Enduroline 005L from Tayna batteries in Feb; cost about £60 delivered to my door. Seems fine so far. Claims to carry a 4 year guarantee - remains to be seen. Had no problems with codes during/after changeover.

Me too!

The reason I ask about bearings is that some aftermarket bearings have communication problems with the wheel sensor/s, The bearing has a tone ring (magnetic ring) which a sensor on the hub reads as the bearing rotates and if the two don't correspond properly it confuses the cruise control computer. Its possible it'll also affect the ABS. Also, if the sensor on any wheel hub was damaged during fitting of replacement bearings, that'll result in faulty cruise.

Regarding the cruise control problem - has this just started, have you had the car for a while or just bought it? Has any work been done around any wheel (brake work, wheel bearing, cv boot etc) recently?

Either both wheels off the ground or both loaded (on ramps or similar). I wouldn't try changing drop links when one wheel per side is loaded.

Some folks use large hose clamps (aka jubilee clamps) round the loose heat shield/s and tighten - stops the rattle. Previous OB I had had about 6 of these round various heat shields. The squeal - are the belts you replaced tight enough/or too tight maybe? Whereabouts in Kent are you?

How/where do I get a pin from to place?

Title says 2007. Should be simple bolt on bearings.

Wheel bearings, front and rear on this series are a known source of potential problems. The only saving grace is they are easy to change.

Sounds like head gasket to me. Have you just bought the car or has this recently started? How's the oil?

Welcome

Are you sure all 4 wheels are driven? Wouldn't be the first Subi with rears u/s.

Do you get any warning lights/check engine lights when this happens? 2nd thought, may be fuel starvation? Has the fuel filter been changed recently?

Yep, one reverse light light on the near side. The other white (led) light on the offside shows red when rear fog is switched on.

As a DIY-er I can't speak much about repairs to engine or transmisison internals. I have reasonably easily done, personally, wheel bearing replacements, serpentine belt pulleys (both of which your car is likely to need changing soon if not already) front brake calipers and plugs (latter, bit tricky cause space is tight, but do-able from below once you remove the under-engine cover). Generally, not too difficult. I had to take it in for oil cooler pipes replacement (right low down, front of engine) cause of rust and space very tight, beyond my ability.

Interpret odd voltage readings I hope someone can shed some light/help me. Long story short, changed the plugs a week back, right hand bank of NGK iridiums came out considerably blacker/oilier than the left bank of plugs. Coupled to poor fuel/mileage, I eventually got my FreeSSM to extract readings, mainly around O2/lambda settings. I'm going to try attach 5 screen shots, first 2 on a hot engine, the last 3 cool engine. Engine idling. The voltage on both sensors readings seem very low to me - less than 0.5 volt at best. Is this OK or not, and if not what would you suggest? Also, let me know if there are other readings which I'd need to get if what I've looked at so far, is meaningless. The car has 156k miles and I've been thinking of replacing the front O2 sensors on the cats. Cheers

Never had a problem. Sure, it wont turn as tight as a RWD car but that's down to having half shafts/CVs etc compounding the turning radii. Turns as tight as I need it to.

I still think it's a suppressor for quitening RF interference from, likely the rear wiper motor from causing interference with radio reception. There are no RF leads (aerial) leads going to that box anyway, which there are on the aerial amp and which is usually a similar sized silver coloured box.