Greenmamba

Yep, one reverse light light on the near side. The other white (led) light on the offside shows red when rear fog is switched on.

As a DIY-er I can't speak much about repairs to engine or transmisison internals. I have reasonably easily done, personally, wheel bearing replacements, serpentine belt pulleys (both of which your car is likely to need changing soon if not already) front brake calipers and plugs (latter, bit tricky cause space is tight, but do-able from below once you remove the under-engine cover). Generally, not too difficult. I had to take it in for oil cooler pipes replacement (right low down, front of engine) cause of rust and space very tight, beyond my ability.

Interpret odd voltage readings I hope someone can shed some light/help me. Long story short, changed the plugs a week back, right hand bank of NGK iridiums came out considerably blacker/oilier than the left bank of plugs. Coupled to poor fuel/mileage, I eventually got my FreeSSM to extract readings, mainly around O2/lambda settings. I'm going to try attach 5 screen shots, first 2 on a hot engine, the last 3 cool engine. Engine idling. The voltage on both sensors readings seem very low to me - less than 0.5 volt at best. Is this OK or not, and if not what would you suggest? Also, let me know if there are other readings which I'd need to get if what I've looked at so far, is meaningless. The car has 156k miles and I've been thinking of replacing the front O2 sensors on the cats. Cheers

Never had a problem. Sure, it wont turn as tight as a RWD car but that's down to having half shafts/CVs etc compounding the turning radii. Turns as tight as I need it to.

I still think it's a suppressor for quitening RF interference from, likely the rear wiper motor from causing interference with radio reception. There are no RF leads (aerial) leads going to that box anyway, which there are on the aerial amp and which is usually a similar sized silver coloured box.

Regarding the fuel smell on cold mornings - check all the fuel line hose clamps/jubilee clamps in the engine bay for tightness. There will be 6 or so.

I think it's a suppressor.

The afternoons moved on a bit so the best I can personally offer, if you still have the car by next weekend is come through and take a looksee then. Sorry it's not earlier.

One final thought - if it was mine and suspected big-end bearings, I'd drop the sump and have a look before calling it quits.

Hmm. I guess I can't contribute a helluva lot. Stupid questions like "have you checked the oil to see if any metal filings", are all levels OK (incl transmission) have been asked? Gambit asked "when does the noise happen, stationary or moving", and confirm it's auto? Front diff oil checked? Only really relevant if the noise happens when mobile though. Could a skipped tooth or 2 on the timing belt cause odd noises? (on second thoughts, this would probably result in stored codes).

You don't say whether you've had a CEL nor if you've had codes read. They might not say anything useful in this case (seems mechanical) but I could maybe come through this afternoon and put my laptop on (Freessm) and see what lurks. Although, 2001 maybe borderline - I used it on my previous OB (2001) and it could show engine codes but not transmisison. I am certainly no expert. You sound like you're looking for a second (third?) opinion confirming fears already formed? Let me know? Is Op Stack still on, do you know?

Difficult to advise on the radio as I dont know what set is installed in your car. Sounds, though as the radio (if it's single DIN) dial illumination bulb/s may be gone. Can you swop in a radio/cd and see how that goes? The speedo over-read; how did you measure the 1.15% difference to stock - circumference or diameter? It anyway contributes to the overread, whether to the extent of 10km/h faster at 80 k's, maybe. Note that all speedos overread a bit.

Good to hear.

I don't know if Impreza's have the same as Outbacks, but just a thought if so - is there an aerial amplifier and is it working? The OB has wire aerial embedded in back window with amplifier for the signal within the rear hatch, feeding the radio.

I bought a Belkin cassette adaptor from Maplins last week for the same use. Put it in, kept on ejecting. Switched on the radio/selected tape, connected my mp3 player to the mini-jack, inserted the adaptor cassette and it stayed in, worked fine.

Installed my Hella Supertones

I don't have a smart phone, hence have to use my old laptop. Works just the same (I guess), still can read and clear codes.

Electrical gremlins can be brought about by dying battery, poor earth/ground points and all sorts of dodgy connectors. A CEL light on will log a fault code which can be read by Subaru - they could charge £60 just to read it via the OBD port. I use a Windows based programme FREESSM (free programme) connected via my laptop to the cars OBD via a eBay-sourced cable costing about £15. You need to get the code read then we'll have something to go on. Meantime, might be good housekeeping anyway to check the tightness of battery connections and check that the cables are as clean as possible. Any half decent Kwikfit-type of garage can test the battery and charge rate of the alternator, usually free. Careful not to get suckered into buying a new battery immediately they say it is no longer serviceable, however. It might just need a good charge.

Make sure the thief cant come back overnight and drive your car away using the key he pinched!

I used SKF bearing a while back, no problems so far.

Looks good.

Folks, Sorry to say, we're going to have to sit this one out, problems at home. Have a good one!

Howdy, Welcome. Nice wheels.

The pcv valve is in different locations depending on model/year. When you access/remove it (the black tubing needs to come off, then unscrew the valve from the manifold) the valve should rattle when shaken. Clean if necessary using a squirt of WD40 or suitable degreaser and reinsert; or replace. I'll try and attach a couple of photos, need to check if either resembles your motor.

PCV valve stuck?