Greenmamba

It should have a reddish tinge, assuming you are testing the tranny and not the front diff!

A simple drain and fill of the tranny will yield about 4 litres. Garages usually just do that much each time the car is in for major service. Noting there's over 10 litres full, several drain and fills eventually gets a majority of fresh fluid in. A full flush (using recovery/replacement) on the other hand is more comprehensive but can, I believe disturb waxes/sludge etc. I've not done that, just drain and fills.

Have you checked both the level, and condition of the transmission fluid? Needs checking with engine running in park. probably wouldn't hurt anyway to do a coupleof drains and refill with fresh fluid if you don't know how old the fluid is. My car doesn't have the "graunch" upon accelerating from standstill, inaudible but is sort of felt through the steering wheel for no more than a split second. Thirdly it almost refuses to accelerate in "I" mode without nearly 50% throttle, often causing the slight shudder" you report, with 157k miles on the clock. Interested about the Terraclean, thought about it myself but hesitated. Might give it a go.

Welcome. Photos would be brilliant.

Have you checked for cv grease being flung onto hot exhaust? That could smell similar to rubber.

Someone more informed/wise about Foresters will have to chime in. I don't know the answer to that one.

Confirm there is no oil around the plug boots? Are all engine grounds/earths OK, clean and tight? Has the check engine light come on at all?

Hello and welcome

When I did mine, that was the part number, genuine part I got from import car parts, about £26 plus postage. Taking the thermostat off should get most of the old coolant out but probably not all. Check orientation of the jiggle pin on the old thermostat (before removing it, once you've got the housing off) and install the new one same way up. I flushed mine with rain water (from a water butt), couple of times, then with de-ionised water, then refilled. Try and get all the air out when filling (burp the car). Did you get the "smoking" problem sorted?

If it's an automatic, which I assume it is the rearmost dipstick (passengers side, correct?) is for the transmission fluid. Check the level when the engine is running, in park. Two different levels, one for hot reading (after a run) the other for cold (just recently started the car). The level should be between the two markers. If it is a manual, not a clue what that dipstick is for. The code could be many causes. Is there any sign/sound of exhaust leak? I have no experience with LPG modded vehicles, so no comment on that. Good luck anyway. Check also the cv boots - grease thrown out over the cats/exhaust might appear to be smoke/steam.

Congrats on your bambino!

Wouldn't consider not having one - have 2 now, one watching forward, one checking back. That one, since I got rear-ended at the traffic lights, 2 weeks after buying the car!

Sounds like you need a new garage - that lot seem clueless.

All, I have a left hand (passenger side) headlight from a 2001 X reg (3rd Gen) Outback which is left over from my previous car. Offered free for anyone collecting from Maidstone. It would probably fit a Legacy same vintage. It is complete, no known breaks/cracks and didn't let in moisture/water. It is not pristine but might do someone a turn. I think c/w bulbs. Message me if keen?

Probably need new tyres.

Sorted my insurance renewal - £238 full comp. Happy.

When were the plugs changed/gapped correctly?

Have you checked coolant?

I don't know if this is still current? http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2016/05/you-can-own-one-of-the-rarest-subaru-impreza-stis-ever-made.html

What is it you are intending to do? Working on or under a car supported by jack/s only is not recommended and you need to be confident of the securing points especially with trolley or bottle jacks (single point of failure). Picture of front cross member (2 types shown). My car has the large frame, yours may be different. Regarding the rear diff - confirm you need a picture of what a diff looks like?

I haven't checked the manual, it's over 6000 pages! I would use the diff at the rear, front there is a cross brace behind the sump and to which, apart from other things the under-engine cover attaches, which is what I'd use at the front.

That is good news. You going ahead with the buy?

That's why I said from certain years, not sure where 2006 fit in the redesign of h/g. Wouldn't hurt to examine the h/gasket area for signs of weepage, if it's there could be coolant, or oil or both. Probably neither. One thing to consider is timing belt. I think the 2006's still have, newer models went to chain. If it's belt, I'd get it changed pronto. The distance (116k miles) demands it if there's no evidence it's been done in the last couple of years.

Rear door lock - is this back passenger door or tailgate? If the latter, the linkage from the exterior handle and the "return spring" tend to rust, the handle doesn't return when released but if one checks each time that the handle is manually returned to where the spring would take it, may cure what seems to be a non-working lock. Mine has been like that for ages, I just got used to it (tried stripping the lock apart, too tricky to get out so gave up!). Otherwise, 2.5 n/a (ie non-turbo) motors from certain years have had headgasket problems, manifest themselves by no mixing of fluids, random overheating. Main evidence is external leaks along the gasket line, usually from the nearside, rear part of the motor. Sometimes, Stop leak can delay things but not one I'd recommend. Check transmission fluid, smell and check colour. Always check with motor running, in park. CV boots drivers side go early, probably due to cat converter heat (close proximity) cooking the rubber. Wheel bearings from that series known failure point. I'm really not trying to dissuade you!! If there's no sign of H/G going wrong, the rest (assuming the transmission is OK) shouldn't strand you and with care, the car could easily take you through the 200k barrier.

Good to hear, must be a problem with the one key. I'll attach a copy of my Sigma manual, if it's any good? Gives some pointers on key pad (pdf) Subaru sigma_m30_manual.pdf