Greenmamba

That's why I said from certain years, not sure where 2006 fit in the redesign of h/g. Wouldn't hurt to examine the h/gasket area for signs of weepage, if it's there could be coolant, or oil or both. Probably neither. One thing to consider is timing belt. I think the 2006's still have, newer models went to chain. If it's belt, I'd get it changed pronto. The distance (116k miles) demands it if there's no evidence it's been done in the last couple of years.

Rear door lock - is this back passenger door or tailgate? If the latter, the linkage from the exterior handle and the "return spring" tend to rust, the handle doesn't return when released but if one checks each time that the handle is manually returned to where the spring would take it, may cure what seems to be a non-working lock. Mine has been like that for ages, I just got used to it (tried stripping the lock apart, too tricky to get out so gave up!). Otherwise, 2.5 n/a (ie non-turbo) motors from certain years have had headgasket problems, manifest themselves by no mixing of fluids, random overheating. Main evidence is external leaks along the gasket line, usually from the nearside, rear part of the motor. Sometimes, Stop leak can delay things but not one I'd recommend. Check transmission fluid, smell and check colour. Always check with motor running, in park. CV boots drivers side go early, probably due to cat converter heat (close proximity) cooking the rubber. Wheel bearings from that series known failure point. I'm really not trying to dissuade you!! If there's no sign of H/G going wrong, the rest (assuming the transmission is OK) shouldn't strand you and with care, the car could easily take you through the 200k barrier.

Good to hear, must be a problem with the one key. I'll attach a copy of my Sigma manual, if it's any good? Gives some pointers on key pad (pdf) Subaru sigma_m30_manual.pdf

I'm out of ideas. Good luck.

No idea, sorry. Last thought - have you tried disconnecting the car battery (with car key out of ignition), press the brake pedal (clears residual current) and re-connecting car battery, then try remote/start? It's a long shot, I know but something I'd try last resort

Without the code, not sure what advice I can give. The immobiliser is waiting for a signal from the alarm module and somehow/why it's not getting one. Have you only the one key? As far as Subaru is concerned - when I bought mine, no code came with it. I went to the agent, proved the car was mine (V5, etc) and 10 mins later, got the 4 digit code. Good luck, sorry can't be more help.

Might need a bit to go on. What model Leggy, and what happens when you go to put a destination in? Do you have the home screen (map) visible, or nothing at all?

When you say you recently changed the battery, you mean the key battery or the car battery? If the key battery, is the battery sitting right and secondly, why was it changed recently? Last question - assume you don't have the keypad code number with you?

Thermostat and coolant change, winter tyres and wheels off, summers on.

Hello and welcome!

Cruised through the MOT

Far as I know, your car will not have a header tank - turbos only. What it has is a reservoir tank. Attached, pic of the reservoir tank (secured by the bolts shown by arrows). If I was adding Stop Leak (personally, wouldn't recommend - rather locate the source of the leak) it'd be straight to the radiator. Others may disagree. reservoir tank.pdf

Rich_Brum - I just realised I sent you the owners manual. Probably little interest to you? I have the FSM on another pdf, only problem is it's 74MB so don't know if the site will allow this posting. PM me if you want me to try emailing it? I

Rich - if this is any good to you? Let me know if it doesn't come through, it's 20MB in size. Subaru_Legacy_Outback_2006.pdf

I have a pdf manual for the Gen 4 OB, don't know if your car is same series or one earlier. Picture would help. If it's the same as mine, I'll post the folder.

For info, the D post refers to it being the fourth post (betw body and roof) counting back from the post at the windscreen which is A. Yep, those are the rubber boots I referred to. The wiring tends to get brittle over time and breaks. If this is where the problem lies, it may not be immediately obvious. As for the switch, you'd probably find it's held in place by clips and to get it out you'll have to disassemble part of the dashboard around it.

I'm intrigued by recent adverts for Terraclean. Has anyone tried this? Good-bad-snake oil? Any thoughts at all on having this treatment on a 10yo Outback with +150k miles?

It's a 9v NiMh rechargeable, Maplins or similar.

If it's anything like mine, the bolts holding it together have rusted to the point they need drilling out.

It is inside the horn - the squarish item with a wire coming out the back. Bear in mind it is only a 9v.

The tailgate must have a contact, probably it's integral with the lock mechanism (no separate rubber-booted switch). Otherwise, that's a weak point in the alarm's perimeter defence. Note before you take the cowl apart - I cannot say with full confidence that the alarm battery is the cause of your problem, it's just something I would try. The 9v battery is, after all 12 years old. If you do investigate this far, at least you'd have access to the alarm horn wiring for physical permanent disconnection if that's what you eventually decide.

The alarm horn on my OB is under the wiper cowl which is the black plastic running across from side to side visible with the bonnet open. Take the wipers fittings off the splines, then find numerous clips holding the cowl in place. The horn should be visible underneath. Bit fiddly but not too hard. You Foz may/should be similar. When I did mine, the horn mounting bolts were rusted, as were the two bolts holding the horn together. I had to drill mine out. After that, open the case and you should see a rechargeable 9v battery. Before doing that, I'd suggest checking all door contacts, including bonnet and hatch that they are "telling" the alarm a closed signal. Also, I think the interior movement sensor can be adjusted for sensitivity.

I'm going to attach the Sigma manual which I use - it may give you some ideas. If your alarm sounds when it shouldn't the alarm's own battery (9v) may be u/s. Its battery is integral to the alarm horn, probably situated beneath the plastic panel around the wipers. Alternately, one of the door contacts may be u/s. Subaru sigma_m30_manual.pdf

Yep. The US cars don't, as far as I know have rear fogs. Good to hear that problems solved. Now, about the high level brake light - any thoughts?