Greenmamba

Thermostat and coolant change, winter tyres and wheels off, summers on.

Hello and welcome!

Cruised through the MOT

Far as I know, your car will not have a header tank - turbos only. What it has is a reservoir tank. Attached, pic of the reservoir tank (secured by the bolts shown by arrows). If I was adding Stop Leak (personally, wouldn't recommend - rather locate the source of the leak) it'd be straight to the radiator. Others may disagree. reservoir tank.pdf

Rich_Brum - I just realised I sent you the owners manual. Probably little interest to you? I have the FSM on another pdf, only problem is it's 74MB so don't know if the site will allow this posting. PM me if you want me to try emailing it? I

Rich - if this is any good to you? Let me know if it doesn't come through, it's 20MB in size. Subaru_Legacy_Outback_2006.pdf

I have a pdf manual for the Gen 4 OB, don't know if your car is same series or one earlier. Picture would help. If it's the same as mine, I'll post the folder.

For info, the D post refers to it being the fourth post (betw body and roof) counting back from the post at the windscreen which is A. Yep, those are the rubber boots I referred to. The wiring tends to get brittle over time and breaks. If this is where the problem lies, it may not be immediately obvious. As for the switch, you'd probably find it's held in place by clips and to get it out you'll have to disassemble part of the dashboard around it.

I'm intrigued by recent adverts for Terraclean. Has anyone tried this? Good-bad-snake oil? Any thoughts at all on having this treatment on a 10yo Outback with +150k miles?

It's a 9v NiMh rechargeable, Maplins or similar.

If it's anything like mine, the bolts holding it together have rusted to the point they need drilling out.

It is inside the horn - the squarish item with a wire coming out the back. Bear in mind it is only a 9v.

The tailgate must have a contact, probably it's integral with the lock mechanism (no separate rubber-booted switch). Otherwise, that's a weak point in the alarm's perimeter defence. Note before you take the cowl apart - I cannot say with full confidence that the alarm battery is the cause of your problem, it's just something I would try. The 9v battery is, after all 12 years old. If you do investigate this far, at least you'd have access to the alarm horn wiring for physical permanent disconnection if that's what you eventually decide.

The alarm horn on my OB is under the wiper cowl which is the black plastic running across from side to side visible with the bonnet open. Take the wipers fittings off the splines, then find numerous clips holding the cowl in place. The horn should be visible underneath. Bit fiddly but not too hard. You Foz may/should be similar. When I did mine, the horn mounting bolts were rusted, as were the two bolts holding the horn together. I had to drill mine out. After that, open the case and you should see a rechargeable 9v battery. Before doing that, I'd suggest checking all door contacts, including bonnet and hatch that they are "telling" the alarm a closed signal. Also, I think the interior movement sensor can be adjusted for sensitivity.

I'm going to attach the Sigma manual which I use - it may give you some ideas. If your alarm sounds when it shouldn't the alarm's own battery (9v) may be u/s. Its battery is integral to the alarm horn, probably situated beneath the plastic panel around the wipers. Alternately, one of the door contacts may be u/s. Subaru sigma_m30_manual.pdf

Yep. The US cars don't, as far as I know have rear fogs. Good to hear that problems solved. Now, about the high level brake light - any thoughts?

Regarding the rear fog light (the offside, led cluster) - assume you have switched it on? The light stalk rotary switch, which first turn switches on the front fogs has a second, non-latching position for the rear fog. It is marked with 2 icons, for each fog light. If that isn't the problem, both it and the non-working high level brake light may be result of break in the loom where it passes through the rubber boot between the hatch and the D post.

Attached, manual for the one in mine, if it helps? PM me if it doesn't come though? KNA-DV3200_ENG-2.pdf

is it the aircon condensate drain blocked? Or heater core?

Reasonably easy for the front 4. The back 2, 1 each side were a pain as space is very tight. The coil packs, not so much but the plugs were a b*tch cause I had to chop and change socket extensions due to space - the side chassis rails got in the way of the extensions. All told, about an hour, maybe a bit more each side.

Might be worth checking the remote's (key) battery?

When I did my plugs it was from below (splash tray removed) but I have skinny hands and various short socket extensions. Removing the battery shouldn't mess with radio codes (if it's anything like mine - integrated radio/6 CD changer, maybe different if you have aftermarket radio) or you could use a "code/battery" saver as some have done. Basically, jump leads (or similar, some use a 9v battery rigged with crocodile clips) to the positive/negative supply to maintain current to car when the main battery posts are disconnected. If you disconnect completely, ensure the key is not in the ignition - if it is, the car's alarm will sound and you can't reset it until reconnecting the main battery.

You are welcome.

How long between unlocking the car and trying to start? If more than 20-30 seconds, the immobiliser kicks in. The key should have a small button - pressing this with the ignition keyy in the start position (gauge lights on) should override the immod and the car will start. There should be a small red led on top of the steering column - if that led is on, the car (on ignition) should start. If it's off, pushing the little button (on key) should illuminate the led indicating the car is ready to start.