Greenmamba

The alarm has it's own 9v battery built into the alarm horn, located under the scuttle near the nearside (lh) wiper. If re-setting doesn't help, at least opening the alarm horn and disconnecting the battery would silence it. Do the car doors lock/unlock when pushing the fob button?

Inspected the car preparatory for it's MOT on Monday. Found a split cv gaiter. Seriously unimpressed!

Maybe the dpf (diesel particulate filter)? Not sure, wiser heads should chime in shortly.

In that case expect fuel economy to be about 20-25 mpg around town and just over 30 on trips.

I don't know about sky high bills but OEM spares can be a bit pricey. Is the OB you are looking at diesel or petrol?

OK, just wondered.

What’s that Evo doing in the one picture?

Different. Diff takes 75W90. Transmission should have Subaru HP ATF or Idemitsu ATF Type HP assuming it's a 5 speed. Dexron III for earlier models and 4 speeds.

I'd walk away. No expert on Forester aircons, Outback units are thought of as rugged units which seldom give major problems; I'd think Foresters are no different. Compound that with the other issues you list, no brainer - find another.

I used Hoo Engine Centre in Rochester a few years back on my OB. Maybe worth a try if they are still going?

Possibly wheel bearings? Any noise?

Contact Mr B on this forum - very knowledgeable and down your way.

Unless I'm mistaken that series are prone to engine problems, crankshaft failures being notable. I wouldn't buy it.

Very odd that coolant doesn't expand into the reservoir when hot. It should - that's what it's there for. Was the car burped sufficiently when the stat was changed? These can be a bugger to get all the air out. Whining could be many things; pump, pulleys, ps, alternator etc.

First off, should have used Subaru OEM stat. Whilst aftermarket look similar and fit, our cars really prefer the original. The wax capsule of Subaru stats is larger allowing better opening and coolant flow. Subaru HG failures are often hard to nail down. normally no mixing of oil and coolant and sniff test can be inconclusive. Pressure test ditto; the problem is it's only when the car gets hot do the symptoms (overheating etc) manifest and that's when you can't easily do a pressure test. Leak down test might produce something interesting. When it gets hot, is coolant pushed into the reservoir and all drawn back to the rad when it cools down?

Was the stat changed in response to this problem? Was an original Subaru stat used or one claimed to be compatible? Again, what is the mechanic's basis for not suspecting HG?

Any bubbles in the overflow when the engine is running? Has the thermostat ever been changed? How is the mechanic so certain it's not head gasket? Has the check engine light ever come on?

Welcome!

Got photos? Maybe a good welder could install a new flange on the old cat pipe end? Gerlach (via eBay) make reasonable exhausts at low price but I don't know if they do cats.

Photo would help. Top section of strut maybe? Have you looked in the engine compartment above where you’re seeing this, is the strut (three bolts) still secure? Or am I in totally the wrong area?

Keypad is for the alarm/immobiliser (likely SIGMA series). If you didn't get the PIN from the seller when you bought it, any good Subaru dealer should be able to provide it. You'll need the PIN if the remote gets lost or packs up. Has the car been serviced since you got it?

The green light switch may have had something to do with trailer hitch. Has it got a towbar?

I understand Subarus prefer OEM stats - the wax capsule is larger than on generics. However, if HG is the real problem, wouldn't make much difference.

You said you changed the thermostat. Did you put in a genuine Subaru stat or generic?

OK. That probably discounts the cause of the cruise not engaging being a failed clock spring but not to rule it out. Is yours a manual or auto? There’s a switch on the clutch pedal (if manual) which disengages cruise if the clutch is depressed, if that switch is faulty Ithink it might prevent cruise from working. Alternatively, linkage with speed sensors on wheels, through the BIU might inhibit cruise. Others probably need to chime in here as I’m running out of ideas. Lastly, the actual switch on the end of the stalk might be u/s.