Greenmamba

What is wrong with the current wiper motor?

I've used Loughton Tyres before, seem competent if you are anywhere near?

Has this condition appeared suddenly? Did it work OK then fail without warning? Has anything about the car changed, such as new battery?

You will need to get the fault codes read. All dealers, some independent garages will be able to read the codes, as could you with Freessm program, laptop and suitable connecting cable. There is also a way to read the codes directly off the car by connecting connectors but I'm not sure of the process. Then, armed with the code well be better able to determine the problem.

Check the wires in the two rubber boots, one near each hinge? The wires in them tend to break.

Needn't be OEM, any good 9v lithium (maybe metal hydride, not too sure) will do. You are very likely to have struggles getting the alarm horn assembly apart. It's held on a U-shaped bracket by 2 nuts/bolts which will be rusty; when you've got it off, the case is held together by 2 screws which again will be rusty as hell. I had to drill one of mine out.

It shouldn't have happened. You should be able to disconnect the cat battery and later reconnect without this happening. Confirm you've checked fuses? Only other thing I can think of apart from getting an alarm specialist is if the alarm battery (mentioned above) - the 9v built into the alarm horn - went flat during the time the car was unused. This could I guess cause the system to alert whenever the car battery is connected (without it's own battery the alarm fails to recognise the signal from the fob/key). I replaced mine as a preventative - it'd been in since 2006 so I figured it needed changing.

Prior to the car battery losing voltage/charging issue, was everything OK? The problems only began after that? When you reconnected the car battery and the alarm failed to reset on the fob button, was the key in the ignition or in your hand? Have you only the one key? Any fuses blown?

The alarm has it's own 9v battery built into the alarm horn, located under the scuttle near the nearside (lh) wiper. If re-setting doesn't help, at least opening the alarm horn and disconnecting the battery would silence it. Do the car doors lock/unlock when pushing the fob button?

Inspected the car preparatory for it's MOT on Monday. Found a split cv gaiter. Seriously unimpressed!

Maybe the dpf (diesel particulate filter)? Not sure, wiser heads should chime in shortly.

In that case expect fuel economy to be about 20-25 mpg around town and just over 30 on trips.

I don't know about sky high bills but OEM spares can be a bit pricey. Is the OB you are looking at diesel or petrol?

OK, just wondered.

What’s that Evo doing in the one picture?

Different. Diff takes 75W90. Transmission should have Subaru HP ATF or Idemitsu ATF Type HP assuming it's a 5 speed. Dexron III for earlier models and 4 speeds.

I'd walk away. No expert on Forester aircons, Outback units are thought of as rugged units which seldom give major problems; I'd think Foresters are no different. Compound that with the other issues you list, no brainer - find another.

I used Hoo Engine Centre in Rochester a few years back on my OB. Maybe worth a try if they are still going?

Possibly wheel bearings? Any noise?

Contact Mr B on this forum - very knowledgeable and down your way.

Unless I'm mistaken that series are prone to engine problems, crankshaft failures being notable. I wouldn't buy it.

Very odd that coolant doesn't expand into the reservoir when hot. It should - that's what it's there for. Was the car burped sufficiently when the stat was changed? These can be a bugger to get all the air out. Whining could be many things; pump, pulleys, ps, alternator etc.

First off, should have used Subaru OEM stat. Whilst aftermarket look similar and fit, our cars really prefer the original. The wax capsule of Subaru stats is larger allowing better opening and coolant flow. Subaru HG failures are often hard to nail down. normally no mixing of oil and coolant and sniff test can be inconclusive. Pressure test ditto; the problem is it's only when the car gets hot do the symptoms (overheating etc) manifest and that's when you can't easily do a pressure test. Leak down test might produce something interesting. When it gets hot, is coolant pushed into the reservoir and all drawn back to the rad when it cools down?

Was the stat changed in response to this problem? Was an original Subaru stat used or one claimed to be compatible? Again, what is the mechanic's basis for not suspecting HG?

Any bubbles in the overflow when the engine is running? Has the thermostat ever been changed? How is the mechanic so certain it's not head gasket? Has the check engine light ever come on?