Greenmamba

Different. Diff takes 75W90. Transmission should have Subaru HP ATF or Idemitsu ATF Type HP assuming it's a 5 speed. Dexron III for earlier models and 4 speeds.

I'd walk away. No expert on Forester aircons, Outback units are thought of as rugged units which seldom give major problems; I'd think Foresters are no different. Compound that with the other issues you list, no brainer - find another.

I used Hoo Engine Centre in Rochester a few years back on my OB. Maybe worth a try if they are still going?

Possibly wheel bearings? Any noise?

Unless I'm mistaken that series are prone to engine problems, crankshaft failures being notable. I wouldn't buy it.

Got photos? Maybe a good welder could install a new flange on the old cat pipe end? Gerlach (via eBay) make reasonable exhausts at low price but I don't know if they do cats.

Photo would help. Top section of strut maybe? Have you looked in the engine compartment above where you’re seeing this, is the strut (three bolts) still secure? Or am I in totally the wrong area?

Keypad is for the alarm/immobiliser (likely SIGMA series). If you didn't get the PIN from the seller when you bought it, any good Subaru dealer should be able to provide it. You'll need the PIN if the remote gets lost or packs up. Has the car been serviced since you got it?

The green light switch may have had something to do with trailer hitch. Has it got a towbar?

I understand Subarus prefer OEM stats - the wax capsule is larger than on generics. However, if HG is the real problem, wouldn't make much difference.

You said you changed the thermostat. Did you put in a genuine Subaru stat or generic?

OK. When the overflow doesn't get drawn back to the radiator during cool-down it could be due to a faulty rad cap. Also, if the rad cap spring is weak or the rad cap is wrong pressure, it could allow too much coolant into the overflow in the first place. What pressure is the rad cap? May be stamped on the top, generally 1.1 bar or higher. Other thought - when the car overheats, do you get heat in the car from the heater/aircon etc or is it cold?

What shape is the header tank cap? Original?

I got mine from my dealer. Just had to take in ID and the V5 to prove ownership.

Have you asked a dealer to source the 4 digit code for you?

When it sounds, are there any door open icons on the dashboard (small display above the speedo/tach)? May be faulty bonnet plunge switch. May be failing alarm battery (9v rechargeable, built into the siren, located under the cowl, hear the nearside wiper mounting). Do you know the 4 digit PIN for the alarm?

I'd kick up a stink with Subaru. if a brakeline under recall leaks a month after recall inspection, the inspection was feeble - should have picked up imminent failure.

Have you tried eject when on slot 1 - the slot which shows nothing but maybe a cd in upside down or as Jay says, a dvd?

Normal. If the key isn't inserted into the ignition and turned at least to the ignition position(before the start position) the immobiliser kicks in again. If that happens, you have to disable the immob by button push.

Maybe nedes a tune up/plugs etc? Did you give the car a hard run just before the MOT? Hot cats work better I think.

First things first. Ensure the bulbs are properly seated in the housings. Then, get them aimed properly. Then, if the problem remains, change dip beam bulbs to Osram nightbreaker or similar,

@El Duderino This any good? https://www.amazon.com/Harpy-Motors-2007-2014-Impreza-Guaranteed/dp/B079QQGSH2

No worries, glad that one worked out for you. Sorry I cant help with the 6th gear issue.

My OB's bonnet has two switches - one near the ABS pump, the other one near the n/s wiper mounting. Maybe check?

OK, then my guess is the esp warning light is connected with the ABS. Possibly faulty wheel speed sensor. Anything recent regarding wheel bearings? Has this condition always been there since you owned the car or did it develop recently, maybe after some work on the car?