Scoobyghost

Oh nice. What figures did you get?

The ecu will save every code from when it was last reset. You may be in for a surprise. When you say cuts out at 4k rpm, you mean the engine basically stalls? Whats the mileage on the plugs? I'd go for a change anyway at that age.

I did word that a bit silly. You can still do the self code check and see what codes the ecu has recorded. Do a code check before resetting it and after the reset monitor it and if it logs a code again check that before it can log too many.

If your check engine light is on you can perform a self code check. There is a thread here detailing how.

Don't let it glug in trapping air between the glugs. Fill it up through the header tank. Burp the top hose. I leave the cap off and start the car once it looks full. If the level of the header tank drops I'm stood there topping it up before air can enter. When it stops taking water check heaters are hot and top up overflow. Keep an eye on it.

Can't beat a flat 4 pushing you around with 4wd sticking you to the ground [emoji57]

When my old classic spat all its water out the needle still read middle(good temp). Needless to say it was fubard. Not sure it would be the same on newer models. The header tank should always be full. As widesam said, does sound like an air lock. Once you are topped up make sure the heaters blow hot inside the car.

Welcome to the club. Don't think anyone could blame you for being in love [emoji7] How are you finding Subaru ownership so far?

Wow. Can't wait for that. There must be some major buzz for this one. How many passes left? I'll poke about a bit more.

I thinks it going to be a case of strip the door cards off and make sure the doors lock before putting the cards back on again.

From what I remember from an older impreza I had, the central locking arm is seperate from the manual door lock arm. I had an issue where the drivers door wouldn't lock because the arm had come loose but the door lock would work fine. As said, something may be stuck or twisted inside preventing the arm from fully moving and rather than burning the motor out the module resets it Will it unlock with remote after being manually locked?

I can't speak from comparison but a cosworth panel filter gave me a good collective gain along with other mods.

Plus Labour. You'll also need a cambelt kit for the cam change.

Mine only cost £1300. There are some good bargains out there.

Heater matrix is inside the car. Try to trace the water pipes up to the turbo and check for coolant stains.

Just to quickly add. Along with the front input seal the driveshaft seals, rear gearbox seal and rear diff prop seal were replaced.

Got the car back today from having the seals replaced in the gearbox. Had my own mechanic do it and I'm total cost £200. He did say "never again" [emoji23] Hardest bit seemed to be getting the selectors and last section back on with it all staying lined up. I'm well chuffed with the report. Gearbox shows very little sign of wear and no damage whatsoever despite reading almost 168k miles now. Clutch was in good health and he wouldn't have changed it anyway. I have a few pictures from the rebuild. it also got stuck on these little alignment studs. clear signs of oil leak. The offending seal. All that work for a £6 rubber seal [emoji23] Scooby was watching [emoji12]

Ha ha it was indeed. [emoji2]

Picked her up. So happy [emoji2] [emoji2] [emoji4]

I see the two tinnies are gone by the time that spoiler has changed colour [emoji23] Good place to start. The spoiler makes a world of difference. Much more Scooby like. Looks good.

I'm so excited! I pick my car up today!

Not so much what have I done today but what's been done. Gearbox was taken apart all for that one little seal. Quite a job but I know the rest of the box is fine so it wasn't worth sourcing a replacement. Put all new seals in the box to save any of the others going. Almost back together and it'll be ready for collection Saturday. My mechanic knew I wasn't in a rush so took his time on it. Clutch has been given the nod as having a good bit of life left so no need for the change. In other news we sold our faker sti as it just wasn't getting used so we couldn't warrant the outlay.

Which bit you getting too? The time spent trying to squeeze in you could probably whip it off [emoji2]

If you've got long nose pliers pinch a bit of kitchen roll or a good absorbant cloth and get that in there to try and dab/clean.

That is bang out of order. Must've just ran out as they stopped him [emoji12] I was stopped for a rear sidelight out. I didn't argue with the coppers cos they only make it worse. Got a ticket but contested it saying it was fine when I left home. I also asked if I should stop every 100m to check them [emoji57] ticket was written off.