Scoobyghost

Not sure for your model( I have a classic impreza) but I was quoted £28 for a second hand complete shaft and bearing. I've seen the bearings on eBay for £40 but all posted from China so can't comment on quality.

Suppose when you're not paying monies it doesn't matter how long you take. Do my own plugs [emoji12]

Specialist should be able to do it without shifting engine surely. I'd certainly check what plugs they used. They should show you an invoice detailing what you're actually paying for.

Yeah don't blame ya. I couldn't spend the extra 20 odd at the time and I'm only 40% full with about 15-20 downloaded games. Got Dragon age, witcher and all sorts so not all small ones. 1tb makes a huge difference so that 2tb will do you for a very long time.

Good price. I paid £40 for 1TB

Moving the games/data does take some time depending how much you have/size of the games.

Depends on plugs used but expect to pay £40 for those if the garage ordered them in. £100 Labour is crazy. Looks like they charged 1.5hrs Labour at the going rate. Shouldn't take that long but that is the problem using garages. All the cost is on Labour.

Glad we could help [emoji4]

What was the outcome to this accident?

Welcome to the forum! You tinkered with any of it?

Nice [emoji23] Gotta see a pic of that.

I only went on it for backwards compatibility and since that is close to release now I can't see much reason for it.

Welcome to preview. Considering taking myself off [emoji15] [emoji28]

I'd say you're spot on. Just change your warning level.

I've been quoted £550 for rebuild with new seals and bearings.

The lower the offset number the closer the centre line is to the hub surface which will push the wheel out. With tyre size, 215 is your width 65 is the % of width as sidewall height. You're right in what you say if you have a larger rim, go for a lower sidewall profile to have the same size tyre/wheel radius.

If your idle pressure is constant and peak pressure is constant and high enough I wouldn't worry about getting it checked.

Temp gauge could be the sensor isn't connected. This is the problem with following after someone's gauge work. No idea where any of the wires are.

Checked for what?

As for "should be" at a certain pressure there are far too many variables. Grade of oil, position of sensor, oil level, age of sensor. Many things.

If your warm idle is always 1.4bar, set it to 1.1 that will allow for slight deviations but also giving you enough warning should the pressure drop too low. I wouldn't worry about pressure providing its always constant. It's when you start getting strange readings that there's an issue. Whether it's the sensor or more serious. Do you have an oil temp gauge too?

There should be a manual online. Would be a worthwhile investment trying to find it. Will only cost you time that way. Always good to know how your gauges work [emoji4]

Yes, there's a button there for warning set. Have a look for a guide to help adjusting it. I dont know that set up I'm afraid.

Depends on position of sensor too. 1.4 is fine for idle. Providing your peak doesn't fluctuate when accelerating or at higher rpm you will be fine.

What does it peak at when driving? Is it constant? That's the important bit.