Piggysniffer

Also check wiring to sensor mate, sounds like it could be earthing down (if that's the way round that they work) and that would have given you the long oil light before, does sound sensor related tho

No mate, no more than 6 runs on the rollers (probs more like 4 or maybe 5) then out the door into car park and that's it, and thinking about it, when I drove it home it did feel a bit "fluffy" at certain rpm, but I didn't have lap top plugged in as had Mrs and baby in car, so wasn't right from the time it left

Yeah it's not nice mate tbh, I'm sure if he had taken the car out for a drive after RRing it and logged it he would have been able to iron out the niggles, but it was a few blasts on the rollers and thank you very much, put your card in here and type in your pin lol the irony of it all is that I actually said (words to the effect of) I'm happy with the power it's got already I want you to map it to make it a pleasure to drive not map it for out and out performance hmmmm 🙄 Ended up with the opposite lol

Get a vag com cable and download romraider and all the defs onto your laptop and then you can log most parameters of your engine

I think that's a code to say the variable valve timing is out of sync from one side of engine to another, usually the avcs pulley sticky, jammed, or bust, or cam belt maybe a tooth out (unlikely), all can happen after a rebuild, hopefully it'll work itself out when it's got a few miles mate, or a slight possibility of cam position sensor

Happy days mate !! Maybe a remap to sort out hesitation if it don't get better, Hawks are renowned for it

Well why didn't you say that in the first place..... 😜

I think it's a case of, your car is alarmed and locked your fob is theoretically knackered so you then have to unlock your door with the key and then you get in car and disarm with keypad immediately before any ignition turnings on are had

Yes mate

To programme new alarm fobs and to override the alarm system with a code if your fob packs up, if you have a working key fob you can reprogramme the code for the keypad to something of your liking

Awesomeness!!

What you mean " oil light took a bit to get on"? turned over without starting as the ecu has probs done itself a reset as you woulda had battery off, normal defo not normal for oil light to stay on for a minute (your a braver man than me for keeping it running) did you fill the oil filter up with oil before fitting heaters are blowing cold because you have an air lock, if you run it up the road you will probably spike into the red in your guage when boosting a bit, read up on how to properly bleed one of these, I ended up having to "burp" mine after having engine out, you can google how to burp a Subaru, also make sure you add your "Subaru coolant conditioner"

Ok, so as you know, had it mapped and got lots of problems pulling timing after, narrowed it down to avcs (runs fine with it disconnected), since then, have replaced avcs solenoids, removed stripped and cleaned avcs pulleys, retimed car/cam belt, and today removed sump and replaced oil pick up tube just to rule it out, the car was better after changing the solenoids but still not right, it's had compression and leak down test week before mapping and mapper said figures were fine, next thing is a bore scope just to make 100 percent sure all is well in there and if so then get it remapped by someone that actually gives a flying !Removed!

Classic signs of a worn turbo usually i think maybe hmmmm

I reckon it's more than likely that the £600 is the cost of the work done to it to recon and hybrid it ?

When mine got stuck up I sprayed a ton of wd40 down the rubber y tube (that connects to blower) after removing the blower, left it overnight, started in morning, loads of smoke(that stopped when wd40 all burned off) but no more stuck valve, not sure if it was the thing to do, but I did and it worked for me

Don't say i didn't warn you 😳😋 thats exactly what I thought too, then fast forward to one burned out blower motor and random events of valves getting stuck in various positions and I had all the codes disabled and lobbed the blower in the bin, plugged up the pipe for a min, but will be taking it all off at some point, it really is an awful design as it just creates condensation and fubars the solenoids and motor, but then mine has 100k on it so you should be good for a while lol

Also, check the crap outta the up-pipe heat shield, welds crack, shield rattles and can give false knock and !Removed! timing, massive pain to do while in car !!, maybe remove shield and heat wrap it ?

Nice mate ! You might want to think about removing the secondary air system while its out, another thing thats plagued with problems and is a pain to do once engine back in

Anddddddd........ B-R-E-A-T-H...... blo-ody nightmare mate

Welcome mate "nice flaps" lol, that made me chuckle

Had P80 JEF on my bimmer, couldn't get 590 for it maybe Jeffery's are not the private plate "type" ?

How much meat have you got left on the pads, when mine got low they were wooden feeling, faded really quickly and gave the wheel a good wobble when applied, fitted new pads all was well again

They need to be pretty badly bucked to not be able to balance them mate, my old cosworth had a big flat in each rim and two were buckled in an off road excursion, balanced them fine and they were 18s, my 17s on my camper (pic) came off a limo and are bit buckled but 300 odd grams have sorted that tho

Ok mate, found that it can happen when the weather turns colder