stants

[emoji16] I did my fronts Sunday just a bit of an issue with freeing them off as were a bit seized on one side, just ordered a set of whiteline rear links today

If it's a UK car you should have yellow ones which will be fine

Hello & welcome [emoji16]

Have you checked both fuse boxes ? Mine went and couldn't figure it out turns out it was the 20amp? in engine bay box

You manage to knock the parking light switch on the steering clounm into half on half off position ?

No mate not at all, I don't know the 1st thing about electrics so I wasn't confident about hacking into the loom. I got a piggyback live from the fuse box found a spare switch taped up under the dash for my ignition live figured it hadn't been used for 17 years so I didn't need it now and the earth and other one I took my time. My instructions were all in Japanese which was fun. Tell your misses to muck in she'll have smaller hands to get into the tight spaces [emoji16] have you decided to put the brass bung under the alternator or on top of not cylinder? Not sure about daisy chaining as I can't do it on mine, I guess you just link the live and negative

Good news [emoji16] now the fun really begins

I'd just left the house so not fullly up to temp, had more important things to do like get beer and supplies for tonight, it's only a 40 limit on that stretch and quite built up area so i'm more than happy for him to use his car as a !Removed! extension on his own

Taken car out for test drive after fitting aforementioned droplinks, headed out onto dual carriageway only for some tit in brand new one series bm come up right behind me then pull into fast lane and sit level with me for about half a mile, must have got bored of me not wanting to race him did a u turn at the next brake in the barriers and drove off like a bell end, Good news is theres no knocking now from the font

I noticed that but it looks ok under the clamp, i'll just keep an eye on it, i'm due to change the coolant soonish so will pop kn new hoses while i'm at it,

Finally got the droplinks on. Three days of soaking in various penetrating sprays. Thought I'd sheared a bolt but all is good [emoji16]

I know I'm an idiot! Well took hose off, inspected and what not all good cleaned the top of rad and hose went on ok managed to move the clamp round and more towards the front tightened up and no more leaks, I was looking at new clamps what do you suggest? Was told the spring type are best for the rad hose ?

Lol cheers mate I managed to put same pic on twice and arsed post up

Hello welcome, There are loads of cars out there ranging from complete lemons to some well kept examples, best bet is to just absorb as much info as possible and view lots just so you can gauge the market and what you can get. Cars with loads of service history are obviously ones to go for as although they aren't super expensive to run and maintain you'll save yourself some money at the start, for instance if you bought something with no records of cambelts or a recent major service done it's going to set you back nearly 800 notes, Your main hurdle will be you age with insurance, most companies will either laugh alot of charge you a couple of grand for the privilege of owning a turbo or wrx. Not sure how different a gx will come in at, being a 2.0l it could still be silly, maybe have a look at insuring it before buying.

As for cats, just looks like it has a sports cat then, There shouldn't be one in the up pipe only new age cars came with pre cats in the up pipe, UK injectors should be yellow ? 440cc ones where as the imports had grey 380's Do you have any paperwork with the car, prodrive tuned cars came with a certificate, a dyno printout would help to confirm what's been done but if there isn't one I'd say he's guessing at max bhp. The fuel rail should be good enough to cope, I'd have a look at how long it's been in as warlord pumps seem to have gone a bit down hill in quality recently and a few failures have occured.

Hi ,you could change the pitch stop, they wear out after time and induce a bit of drivetrain for and aft movement

I'd solder but space is a bit tight, vampire clips are better than blocks,

Obviously the 4 pots will be easiest to see along with the bigger i/c. Maybe they have popped a prodrive ecu in from a done. Essentially it is the same as a wrx engine just a few slight differences,

I think so mate [emoji16]

Managed to delete my own thread about top hose [emoji35] Still took it off and had a look at the offending leaky area clean everything up and re seated the hose used socket to nip it up and no more leaks [emoji3] Tomorrow brings round 2 of droplink fitting and re apply waxoil to some areas I missed the other week

I can't highlight the area I'm afraid but if you zoom in to the left of the coil pack underneath the ht leads you'll see the t piece where I plumbed mine in

I think so, I was told to take it from as close to the manifold as possible, I cut the vac hose that runs from the manifold to the boost soliniod. And inserted there. I'll see if I have a pic

Hmm did you cat not have the clock situated where you've put the pod ? If not you could always take the perm live and battery on live from the hazard warning switch. Does mean removing more of the facia, do you have a multi meter ?

Hello welcome, glad your enjoying the foz, Td04 good for around 270 maybe a hybrid one will get to 300 with supporting mods. 1bar with 250bhp sounds about right, Depends if the ecu has been mapped. Is it a UK car ? For 300bhp I'd be looking at td05 new age top mount i/c full decat & remap, bigger injectors if it's an import. Get some pics up too [emoji3]

If yours is 6w2 it breaks down as this 49BSlate Metallic 64CAcadia Green Metallic