stants Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I'm not entirely sure ours have them as when I enquired to go maf less I was told i'd need one to be billed and tapped into the manifold, think it's the later cars that have them as standard, to control the fuel trim, the maf does all the work from what I can gather, Instead of replacing everything with seemingly no end to trying to find out what's wrong, maybe get it on the dyno for a power/fueling run the operator may be able to pin point it easier than changing more parts, for the sake of 60 or so quid might be the better option? As for the remap the only option for our cars is an esl board, it wasn't cheap but it runs better and it pretty much paid for its self in fuel saving in about 6-9 months Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Here you go mate, i'd double check it fits our cars though,should do same !Removed! engine but you never know http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info.asp?id=10367 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Thank you mate! I've noticed that I get bad MPG when the engine is cold, my guess is that the water temperate sensor might be playing up, also I need to find it first -) The reason I replace the MAF and Lambda is because I had error codes which are cleared now. Now I have code 25 which is missing on the list unfortunately, probably because it's related to the gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Stock water temp sensor is a bit of a pig to get to, it's under the manifold, could probably reach it if you remove the alternator I'll dig out a pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Oh Right, I have replaced the alternator and I have indeed seen some connectors out there -) Have you replaced the alternator on yours? they seem to be underrated for these cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 One of those two circled, No I've not changed alternator I just drive everywhere with the sidelights on [emoji3] make sure it's always trickling the Battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 thank you mate! Have you kept your AC belt by the way? I have no intention to use the AC, I wonder if I could just get rid of the AC belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Mines still in place as it still works (sort of) just needs a re gas, Quite a lot of people remove it, if your gonna do it may as well remove the pump/motor and condenser & pipework Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 So if I remove it nothing bad will happen like Check engine light or other problem? I believe that belt is ONLY for the AC? is that correct? I might leave it as it is, I just don't like the Subaru climate control, as it's really weird - lets say if I want to put 22C instead of 25C - it turns on the AC automatically then - I absolutely hate that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 I'll get col to post up as he removed his recently, Agreed the hivac controls are weird, as soon as I turn on the wind screen demister the ac kicks in,never worked out if you can take it out of auto mode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyghost Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 What's going on here then [emoji57] [emoji41] Was a while ago now. When I bought the car previous owner told me he had the system tested and found the evaporator was leaking. He didn't bother repairing/replacing it and I've never used air con in a car so wasn't missing much. Roll on to when we done the cambelt and while it was off we decided to leave the belt off(Air con belt is separate) stripped the pump out, some pipework and the air con rad. I haven't had any lights at all before or after removal. Even when switching the air con on(devil makes work for idle thumbs) there was a button and it had to be pressed for science. Anyway moral of the story is, you can remove your air con with no ill effects towards the running of the car and it won't throw up any engine lights. Plus one less belt for the engine to power [emoji57] [emoji18] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Great info. Thank you! Also, I finally found my problem with flashing HOLD. Also there is a diagnosis for the auto gearbox as well, self diagnosis, but my code was shown on an OBD scanner worth £2500 -))))) And the code is - 25 — Еngine torque control signal And I don't get this error at all times which makes me think it's a short somewhere or bad earth or the wiring is damaged somewhere... Here is the list of ALL codes - someone might find it useful. 11 — Duty solеnoid A 12 — Duty solеnoid B 13 — Shift solеnoid 3 14 — Shift solеnoid 2 15 — Shift solеnoid 1 21 — ATF temp sеnsor22 — Atmospheric sеnsor (This is MAF sensor)23 — Еngine revolutiоn signal (Detonation sensor?)24 — Duty solеnoid C (The one which is responsible for the rear wheel drive -)25 — Еngine torque control signal31 — Throttle sеnsor32 — Vehicle speed sеnsor 133 — Vehicle speed sеnsor 275 Incorrect gear changes.79 Overheating of the gearbox.81 Incorrect voltage supplied to the gearbox.82 Incorrect solenoid voltage 1-2 solenoids83 Solenoid voltage is too high84 Incorrect solenoid voltage 3-2 solenoids85 TCC Solenoid failure90 TCC Solenoid incorrect voltage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Does sound like a earth fault as your getting a lot of codes at once if once the ecu's been reset you get the codes back up when stationery and idling or rev'ing ,try using jump leads from the negative terminal on the Battery to the inlet manifold and engine block to create a good earth .Then reset the ecu ,restart and see if it's resolved any of the fault codes If it's not broke .....upgrade it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 THe list of ALL codes - is not MY codes -) I just thought I put a list for someone who might need it in the future. I only have 1 error - code 25. I will check the earth tomorrow with the multimeter. And adding extra earth would be a good idea for sure. Thank you for your support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Guess the beer goggles missed the bit about you only having "1 code and the rest is a helpful list" Should know to steer clear of the tech advice when rat ar5ed by now lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 -) No worries, just hope someone will find it useful. These are the Gearbox related error codes for SF5. I'm currently washing my car, as didn't get a chance to wash it for some time, well -) will put some pics up once finished! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 A good wash! https://picasaweb.google.com/108629679967946639907/MySF5AfterAGoodWash?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLGb5OWczZyzRg&feat=directlink 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Like those wheels, been trying to find a set, was told they were for the Canadian market only so gave up in the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 If you really want them badly you can make me an offer, just PM me -) Also the postage won't be cheap at all ! They need a refurb and I would rather get another set, I need 2 sets of wheels actually -) both 16 inches. The wheels are decent 16 inch as well, but just not my cup of tea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I ended up getting a brand new set of oem rims for 50 quid a wheel, not in position to be buying more ! As for fuel consumpiton stuck £40.00 in last week equates to 36.7l ended up doing 174 miles all short trips round town & my daily commute returned 21.75 mpg so not too bad really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 That's a pretty good price for a brand new wheel... Some sets go way higher than that, at least £100 per wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 There's a seller on eBay impartsb46 that deals in dead stock for izuzu & subaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_JJ Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Thank you mate! Does anyone know STANDARD fuel pressure for our cars? Can anyone measure their pressure? I feel like my car runs mega rich after I put a WRX fuel pump. I also feel petrol during the cold start from the exhaust pipe, but the smell is strong... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 @Savagebulldogs is your man for that kind of info, I've no idea to be honest, On start up they do run very rich as there's an auto choke system, hence why it starts off idling around 1500 and slowly drops to normal, i'd get it on a dyno for a run to see exactly how much it's over fueling, I can pretty much guarantee it will be, being an import Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 26 to 30 psi is the standard fuel pressure pending on the manifold vacuum /engine load on a classic impreza . you'd have to get a garage to measure the pressure by fitting a inline gauge . If you did have a change in pressure it would probably run a bit rough, as the injectors would be opening for the same duration but not squirting the right amount of fuel . check the pump tank access hatch is sealed correctly and fuel system vapour lines to the charcoal canister are ok . During the colder weather it will automatically be a bit richer(especially on start up ) as the colder air is denser so it needs more fuel on cold start to equal the air fuel ratio also if it's a jdm the standard map will probably be set for a higher octane fuel and the ecu would add more fuel to achieve the maps parameters But it's always worth checking out if you think you've possibly got a leak If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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