scoobyste Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Hi all, new Scooby owner... PROUD OWNER :PI have a 2000 'W' reg Impreza turbo Facelift Classic AWD UK Specit is a GC8 model with an EJ205 motor needless to say, I've been having LOADS of fun in it well... that's up until I started getting a terrible hesitation and loss of power during full power only way to describe it is like driving full throttle and then its like hitting a brick wall... complete loss of power for half a second say!hasn't done this in a while now, lately it seems to just lose power intermittently like a choke is stuck on it has only flashed a 'CHECK ENGINE' warning light up very briefly and not all the time!happily it was enough that the diagnostics showed an MAF (Mass Air Flow) fault... but the BIG problem is the numbers on my sensor have worn off with age... now I cant find the right sensor for my car :(I have tried 2 sensors already but both completely wrong!first was a brand new ADS77401C which Blue print say is right for the car when checked against the registration number... sadly it clearly isn't right because that particular sensor made my Subaru run VERY erratically!!! it was popping, farting, juddering etc... to be honest a Ford Escort would of left me standing!!! second was a local car breaking for spares, EXACTLY the same model, year etc everything apart from 1 digit on the engine code was different, well I tried it anyway and this ran the car as if it was a non turbo... no boost at all! as if it was stuck on choke (this is the only way I can describe it sorry... no power at all).now to cancel out any other faults such as a breaking down coil and so on, I cleared the ECU each time and every engine flash only shows on diagnostics as an MAF sensor fault... to also cancel out other issues, I have refitted the original MAF sensor each time and it runs like a dream in comparison with hesitation only happening 2 or 3 times on full throttle through each gear.It would be such an easy fix if I could get the number from my original MAF but sadly life throws a lot of obstacles my way :(CAN SOMEONE HELP ME?????someone must have the answer I need... if it helps, here are relevant specs so my hero can find the EXACT sensor I need-model- GC8HK8Dengine type- EJ205HW2KD (the one I tried from the car breaking for spares was a 1KD... didn't think it would of mattered but it did!!!)hoping a Subaru Guru can help me out asap :)Thanks in advance, Ste.Sorry to admin if this is in the wrong part of the forum... newbie so please bare with me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WideSam Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Welcome to the club. Nice looking car! Sadly I can't help you with your issue... Although I imagine there's a man that will pop along in a minute who can :) Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Hi n welcome Early Classic mafs are normally identified by the colour of the label green, orange ,purple ect but I'm unsure which would be the correct one for your year .Maybe one of the v5/v6 uk impreza boys will know Have you checked for air leaks in the pipework between the maf and throttle body (intake tract ) as any air loss between maf and map sensor can somtimes ping a maf code , as the air pressure and air flow sensors information doesn't add up [emoji6] 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 And just like that here's Savage ;) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WideSam Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 That's the man I was looking for! Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WideSam Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Ooh, no. I probably won't say that again Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Ohhh sweety [emoji7] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I'm starting to worry about you 2 [emoji33] Get a room will ya [emoji129] [emoji140] [emoji23] 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quit Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Check the inlet pipe very prone to cracking as savage said above 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyste Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 Hi, thanks for replies... yes I have checked for air leaks but cant find anything! :(would a leak in the inlet pipe make it run the way it does? throwing up a CEL and hesitate under full throttle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Yeah it might, as when it's on boost if it's sucking in extra unmetered air (leak before the turbo) it would "lean off " and cut the boost . Leaks After the turbo (positive boost leak) would normally give you lack in power or whistling noise Just thought its worth doing a through leak test as it might not be maf Have you got any symptoms ? Cos ropey idle is fairly common with knackered mafs Is the maf sticker any particular colour ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyste Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 I cant see any causes of a leak on the intake pipe and don't know if it would matter but I don't have any exhaust leaks eitherthe car idles perfectly and drives normally but as soon as I put my foot FLAT down, it will get going and then feel like I have all of a sudden tried to tow a van behind... that's the best way to put it! but when it does it, it will jerk between full power and the feel of towing a heavy vehicle behind!!! its really annoying as for colour codes, my MAF is not the typical unit with a big square on the top and a colour, it is a smaller sensor that is held in by 2 torque head screws... if that makes sense?no colour code on them, just numbers but mine are too worn off to read :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quit Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 The inlet pipe expands and contracts tho ! It's solid plastic only way to check it is take it off 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyste Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 I will try this in the morning :)is it worth replacing with a silicone one to rule it out just in case???and just to clarify that a leak in the plastic pipe from the MAF to the engine can cause all this PLUS a CEL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Any unmetered air entering the engine will cause rough idle as the maf and map sensors are getting conflicting info . hence why somtimes you get a maf code ,admittedly normally with a map sensor code if it's leaking air. When the engines cold start it and spray a little brake cleaner around the joins and bends of the maf to turbo pipework, the engine revs will rise if it sucks in the cleaner through a leak . Don't spray to much or spray it on hot parts (exhaust system ect) as brake cleaner is flammable. It could well be the maf, after all that's the code that's come up but it's just worth checking for a air leak as it's much cheaper than a replacement maf . Did you reset the ecu once you fitted the new maf ? As the ecu could still think that the maf is fubar if the codes weren't cleared . Have a look on import car parts website for the correct maf for your model ,if you think you've got the wrong one (or give your make n model a google) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Wotcha and welcome! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyste Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 The ECU has been reset each time yes As for the piping, i will take that off today and check it :-) Is there any other pipes or hoses i should check??? Also my Impreza is UK spec so is it still possible to check on import car parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 The pipework that passes under the inlet manifold is a pita to remove so have so plasters and a swear tin at the ready if you're going to remove it lol Icp sell just about everything for all models of subaru and are about the cheapest prices for oe stuff . Their website is handy to cross reference part numbers too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyste Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 WELL.... this is certainly an odd situation i am in now! I have just called 2 Subaru dealerships, i wont name which but they a well established and have parts departments. First dealership asked for the registration number (W661 UAW) and told me the MAF for my car is- 22794AA010 Second dealership asked for the chassis number (JF1GC8KD3YG052007) and they told me the MAF for my car is- 22680AA301 They bpth told me them numbers do not superseed to any others... SO WHICH F*****G ONE IS RIGHT???!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Strange can't understand why. [emoji17] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Is there any visual differences between the two mafs (bolt hole centres, shape length of element ) If the dealers are local maybe try taking your old one to them and comparing them side by side ? Or explaining that you've been given 2 different part numbers and want to know if you can send it back when opened if it's the wrong part 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyste Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 I have just called a third dealership who asked me for my chassis number (JF1GC8KD3YG052007) and they have given me the same part number as the first dealership i called who only asked for my registration (W661 UAW)- 22794AA010 So interesting that the first dealership asked for reg number and third asked for chassis number and they both give me the same part number. Still baffled at why the second dealership i called asked for a chassis number also and gave me a completely different number!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaulson Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 22794AA010 is this... HERE 22680AA301 I can't find but the other MAFS with a similar part codes are the labeled ones savage was on about. BLUE - GREEN - PURPLE Hope you find the problem :). You could always give the sensor a little clean with some brake cleaner... probably not wise but I did it with mine and it's worked fine ever since. Just be gentle! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyste Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 right... I think I am getting somewhere now... FINALLY!!!!! :Pjust got some interesting info on the odd part number I receivedI have been in touch with 4 Subaru dealerships today ;)the first dealership asked for my registration (W661 UAW) and they confirmed that the part I need is- 22794AA010the second dealership asked for my chassis number (JF1GC8KD3YG052007) and they confirmed that the part I need is- 22680AA301 ... this number is for a COMPLETE unit (body, sensor, screws... the lot!) which Subaru don't supply anymore so I would have to buy the sensor separately and that number has been confirmed as- 22794AA010the third dealership asked for my registration (W661 UAW) and they confirmed that the part I need is- 22794AA010and lastly the fourth dealership asked for my chassis number (JF1GC8KD3YG052007) and they confirmed that the part I need is- 22794AA010So it looks like I need part number 22794AA010 lol I have just cross referenced Subaru's part number with Blue Print and it comes back as- ADS77401CI should of been a private investigator! B) 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 [emoji1] least you got there eventually. [emoji106] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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