Mdon Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 I took it up into the fells yesterday and had a walk with my little girl, loved it! Ive cleaned the iac again and gave it a good dose of wd40. I've noticed today the revs are still hunting when on warm idle waiting at the lights. I'm waiting for the EML to come back on again and then I'm going to take it to the Subaru dealers to have a look. Hopefully it'll be a simple fix as I'm refraining from buying anything for it (ie mats etc) incase it turns into a massive headache and I end up returning it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cm1 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Go forester best £1k I've ever spent velour and arm rests ,heated seats loads of space winter capabilities cheers. C 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 Well the EML came back on so I contacted the garage I bought it off who were happy for me to take it to the local Subaru dealership due to there being no specialist indies in the area, I booked the car in for Wednesday morning they seemed on the ball and were happy to deal with the supplying garage on my behalf and even ordered a new IACV in incase my car needs it (turns out they've had my car in for work before in the past). I thought I'll leave the light on until it goes in so they can see the code P0519. But after only 4 hours after booking the !Removed! thing in the light has reset itself! This car is going to make a liar out of me. i also tried replacing some bulbs, one of the three heater control bulbs, the rear fog light switch and the clock. Managed to get the bulbs out fo the heater controls but couldn't find a replacement anywhere so had to order a set of three from the Subaru dealer which I'll pick up on Wednesday. Turned my attention to the fog light switch, took some dismantling and got the light out as it was stuck, same story, specialist bulb so I'll live with that one being out. Only snag was when putting the switch back together I managed to knock a chip off the board so the switch is now completely U/S, managed to source one from a breakers that should be here on Tuesday. However, third time lucky, I managed to replace the clock bulb. the wax/oil finally turned up so if the weather is dry tomorrow I'll tackle that, hopefully I won't make a mess of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david1972 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 The eml error code will be stored...they'll be able to plug in and download it Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 IACV problem has been sorted, the supplying garage paid for my nearest Subaru dealer (Stan palmer) to replace the valve. Revs have settled at 750 rpm on warm tickover. Managed to replace the heater control bulbs and the rear fog light switch. I also wax oiled the rear arches, rear subframe and inside both cills before I got rained off. I have found a small rust bubble in the paint on the rear passenger wheel arch about the size of half a 5pence coin. I don't know whether to take it to the garage now to but sorted or see when it develops. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 You want spray waxoil inside rear arches so getting down to that arch lip, will need remove side trims in boot. Rear arches are about 30/70 bad/good on these and they either go from inside out or out panel start going because arch lip failing . We done a red one which was bit bad and needed plating on inner arch and small area of outer arch. Rather than blend in body paint the arches had the genuine subaru black optional front & rear arch trims fitted (not cheap but may get old stock deal on them) which covered the repair visual body paint & made job easy and could use a marine grade epoxy paint final coat which way better than 2 packs long term . Rust on these is best attacked quick as modern steel soon de-laminates . The older SF forester was better steel and thicker sheet metal on inner arch guard Least other minor faults fixed and dealer happy and easy in covering the work ... . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 6 hours ago, Mr B said: You want spray waxoil inside rear arches so getting down to that arch lip, will need remove side trims in boot. Rear arches are about 30/70 bad/good on these and they either go from inside out or out panel start going because arch lip failing . We done a red one which was bit bad and needed plating on inner arch and small area of outer arch. Rather than blend in body paint the arches had the genuine subaru black optional front & rear arch trims fitted (not cheap but may get old stock deal on them) which covered the repair visual body paint & made job easy and could use a marine grade epoxy paint final coat which way better than 2 packs long term . Rust on these is best attacked quick as modern steel soon de-laminates . The older SF forester was better steel and thicker sheet metal on inner arch guard Least other minor faults fixed and dealer happy and easy in covering the work ... . I don't suppose you have a part number for the wheel arch protectors? I've tried googling it and can't find a part number. If I can get them then I'll be able to sort the rust myself. It's on the lip of the arch, I've cleaned the inner eagle and gave it a good coat of wax oil on the inner side of it and I'll scrape the rust out of the outside and put some rust kill on it. just filled the car up as I've done 273 miles just pottering around and going to work once, it has averaged 30.6mpg giving a average so far of 31.06 mpg over 541miles. Well chuffed with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 you need get waxoil in the arch cavity which need access from inside boot . I will try dig out part number for arch protectors, them are an extra like the black rear bumper protector . Full price is silly money but they hide arch edge and do a good job of protecting body work a bit . one we done was not a AWP so bumpers & door lower guards all black & black arch trim matched in perfect. They do them in same grey/gunmetal as the bumpers/door guards.If you call a dealer they may be able help Look online as may find way cheaper . Other option is something like this, as you got dark green black blends nicely with it .http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331984431810 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 I've already had a look at the boot trim removal, I'm on my days to night swing shift on Thursday so plan to attack it then, with the 5 litres of wax oil I also got a 500ml aresol of wax oil so I think that should do the job perfectly. Ive already got that 5m trim roll on my watch list, great minds think alike! I've seen photos of the original Subaru ones and they look ace, if you can find a part number that'd be great, if not I'll ring the dealer up on Thursday. Cheers Mr B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 No idea how good that 5M trim is, get similar stuff in local body shops, maybe bit small for what want do ! Link below same trim but way better price.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E-TECH-WHEEL-ARCH-GUARD-TRIM-WHEEL-ARCH-PROTECTOR-UNIVERSAL-BLACK-/191199762094 oem arch guard kit is indeed quite cool. they should of been done standard in my opinion and same for rear bumper guard. I'll have look on workshop computer before leave as got a full pdf on extras somewhere and pretty sure a part number with it, numbers will difffer for colours but gives you something search with . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Try a breakers I lost one of my arch protectors, got two 2nd hand ones for , £10 +postage Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 I haven't found SG accessories catalogue, found SH but arch moulding kit not in that one. We got them from US parts specialist as way cheaper plus ordered a few rear bumper protectors help spread shipping costs as was only £28 compared to UK £75 :-O Arch moulding kit was about £280 (few years ago and £ to $ was good plus US prices way better start with . Could be worth trying the 3m tape as if around 18mm coverage good enough it could work well & look oem if fitted carefully & give you similar look for less than £20 then keep eye out for arch moulding kit if want beast it up some more ... Don't see many with them & ones I seen tended to be demonstrator cars so fit most accessories for show, I recall UK subaru price around £580 :-O Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 Thanks for getting back to me. I've ordered the 18mm strips already and I've contacted the online breakers I got the fog light switch from. I've also ordered some paint . £580 seems extortionate, even a professional fix would only cost about £200. Hopefully I'll get some from the breakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 yeh that was roughly full dealer retail fitted back in the day which is extortionate and why don't see that often on the foresters . You want see price of genuine moulded mud flaps & load liner mat lol :-) rear rolling load cover is about £350 :-) Do a review on strip as interested how that works/looks . would be cheap solution and keep edges from light scrapes and parking door dings too . May find adding the black door edge moulding strips kind of makes it more oem blending/complete, we done a few with that in black & chrome saves door edges so again practical addon ... Seems practical and sensible solution to your minor blemish mark, think will look fine on dark green too . good luck ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 Still waiting for a dry day when I'm off to attack the rust, I've touched up everywhere I can in the short term and the strips have arrived and look decent. Every day I've been off so far it has rained. another quick question, my drivers side heated seat only works on the low setting, on high there is no heat whatsoever. Is this a simple fix? I'm not fussed about it enough to spend loads of time or cash on it but I will fix it if it's an easy job. the petrol consumption seems to defy logic, I've used it quite a bit for work recently due to forced overtime so I can't car share at the minute (147.5 hours worked in 14 days, I'm knackered!) and I've been kicking its head in a little i.e. Overtakes etc, the petrol consumption over the last tank has been better?! I averaged just a smidge over 32mpg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 does the switch light up on high setting ? if so check wiring harness under seat and run some contact cleaner on connector .If working on low elements are ok as work in series in low and parallel for high, if switch & wiring good it probably thermostats for high in the seat . Hope u get a rain free day as keen see how these mouldings work on arches and what covering the give . mileage results can seem odd, seems sensible figures though . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 Yeah, switch still lights up when on high setting. I'll try contact cleaner on the connectors. Where's the thermostat for the seats located? Is it a easy fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Only easy if obvious loom/plug issue under seat. elements and thermostats all within seat cushion base . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Sorry for taking so long to get back to this. I've looked at the heated seats and there's power as the switch lights up in both low and high but only gets warm in low. However, I've had another set back with the car. After the dealer replacing the Iac valve I've had the engine management light on a total of 4 more times. After resetting it twice I took it in to the main dealer yesterday after the third activation to which they interrogated the ecu and found the last time it was on it was running at 80c and doing a little over 1800rpm. They can't find a fault but suggested it might need a cat. They said run in a see how it goes. And no surprise it's came on again this morning, again after driving a couple of miles and when driving along at about 30mph, it never seems to come on when idling. There are jobs id like to sort on this car and improve it but I'm currently loosing the will with it, have you any suggestions please or is the EML bulb easily removed from the dash binnacle? Many thanks and sorry for being a nuisance. mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 I would guess it going be P0420 fault code (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold) which really is either the rear sensor as this is the one that relates data to cat efficiency or Cat itself could be an issue. Other things can cause like poor spark plugs/leads, fuel, dirty maf, exhaust leaks. . Worth grabbing a cheap obd2 code reader so can see codes yourselfhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Engine-Fault-Code-Reader-Diagnostic-Scanner-Reset-Tool-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD-UK-/172200936611 You could try running some cat cleaner in your fuel system mixed extra strong . If P0420 not a big problem but can be pain be sure exactly what at fault . Would imagine reason it found it's way to dealers was due to intermittent engine light & no obvious course of action to resolve . Cat not cheap and silly money via main dealer so would want warranty involved if using main dealer. Hopefully couple attempts of cat cleaning additive & trying a better fuel may help ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted November 20, 2016 Author Share Posted November 20, 2016 I already have a code reader and it is constantly the 519 code that comes up. It is doing my head it and I don't think this car will last past January in my ownership. Warranty was only a month long so is now expired. I'm going to try and remove the dash clocks on my next set of rest days and remove the EML bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 Oh I see, I thought P0519 was resolved with iav . Can't see why dealer thinks it Cat on that code I would try looking at neutral switch (fit thinner sealing washer) as mentioned in previous post about idle fault. perhaps map sensor too . removing ecu connector and cleaning with elec contact cleaner could be worth a go too, has worked for us before on odd faults . take it idle is perfectly fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 Yeah idle is fine and the fault is coming up when ther car is driving along at 30mph or so, I can't see how it can have anything to do with the idle. The neutral switch sounds like a good bet though, do you have a part number for it as the dealer isn't looking at that as a possibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Idle switch issue is not generally related to the switch so much as the linkages inside box that engage with the switch, that why we use a thinner washer or remove it and use ptfe tape on threads which move switch closer to worn linkage. this issue not very well known, when our local subaru dealer gets stuck the cars end up with us ... dealers don't get a massive amount of experience on older running faults and only know what subaru tech bulletins teach them. Idle code can be tricky one though and though fault itself normally cheap it finding it first that the issue. ecu connector clean worth a go too as we resolved couple code issues with that over the years . clean maf and maf connector and clean tps and neutral switch connector too . do one thing at a time so can draw conclusion if get a change . good luck ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mdon Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 On 21/11/2016 at 7:57 AM, Mr B said: Idle switch issue is not generally related to the switch so much as the linkages inside box that engage with the switch, that why we use a thinner washer or remove it and use ptfe tape on threads which move switch closer to worn linkage. this issue not very well known, when our local subaru dealer gets stuck the cars end up with us ... dealers don't get a massive amount of experience on older running faults and only know what subaru tech bulletins teach them. Idle code can be tricky one though and though fault itself normally cheap it finding it first that the issue. ecu connector clean worth a go too as we resolved couple code issues with that over the years . clean maf and maf connector and clean tps and neutral switch connector too . do one thing at a time so can draw conclusion if get a change . good luck ... Hi, thanks for all your help. I'm slowly progressing with this. I've decided to bite the bullet and stick with the car so I'm getting the powerflow exhaust replaced tomorrow for something more quiet and I'm going to try and fix this issue. Don't suppose you have a photo showing the location of both the MAF and the neutral switch? Normally the MAF is on the air hose coming out of the filter box however with the filter being basically on the engine, I can't find the damn thing. I've tried googling it and still can't seem to find it as the only image that is the same as my motor points to the IAC Valve. I feel like a right idiot not being able to find it. secondly, I think I've found what could be the neutral switch on the passenger side of the gear box there's two switches identical, which I assume one is neutral and the other is the reverse light switch. Don't suppose you could tell me which one is which? I also tried the bump strip around the wheel arch and it's too cold to apply it, it needs to be warm to shape it and I can't seem to get it right so I've again bitten the bullet and have booked it in after Christmas to have both rear arches rubbed down, painted in a plastic primer (I'm assuming it's like a plasti-dip paint) and then resprayed. £280 for both. Cheers mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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