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a few pics of my project so far


savage bulldogs
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I've seen a few people ask for different spring rates as cyberspeed lists different rated springs for the leggy's and fozzie due to the extra weight .

I spoke to Edwin about different spring rates and he suggested sticking with the gc8 tried n tested spring rates for my usage. Unsure what they were tbh but on my sti (originally 30mm lower than uk or wrx) with a 15mm drop on the front,20 mm drop on the back and the damper set at 16 / 32 they seem fine for road use so far .

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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The rears are pretty much the same as the fronts but here's a few pics and pointers :wink:

The back of the rear seats has to be removed to gain access to the rear top mounts ,so the lower rear bench needs to be removed first by undoing the 2 bolts (where the rear passengers calves would be) and "unhooking" it from the centre hook on the back rest .The back rest is held on by 3 bolts at the bottom and is hooked over the rear parcel shelf

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 with the rear seats removed crack off the 3 12mm nuts on each top mount and the wheel nuts before you get the back end up and on axle stands.

with the car secure and the wheels removed crack off both 19mm bolts at the bottom of each strut and remove the brake line from the strut bracket . in my pic the top bolt is a elbaich camber bolt hence why its a different size and colour :wink:

I forgot to take a pic of me removing the rear legs but here's a pic from when I fitted the new old shocks last year :blink: 

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 using the scissor jack with a block of wood to just take the weight ,I totally removed the bottom lower strut bolt and left the top one loose and in situ with the nut off the end .This was to stop the weight of the hub/leg assembly pulling down on the top mount bolts while I tried to remove them . next up remove the 3 top mount bolts and slowly lower the scissor jack while trying to remove the last strut bolt . make sure you don't let the weight of the suspension leg crush or split the c.v gator as you withdraw the "leg" from under the arch . the top of the rear suspension turrets trap mud so this area is well worth a clean up while the leg is off  .

I fitted the extenders to the rear coilovers before fitting them to the car, as I have a rear strut brace and space is a bit tight even with a 1/4 drive socket set but the extenders do look like they might be easy enough to fit afterwards (choice is yours) .I just did the 3 nuts finger tight until the cars back on the ground again.

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using the scissor jack and block of wood I raised the hub while guiding the coilover into place to fit the lower strut bolts . Holding the top camber bolt in the neutral position with the scissor jack still in place (to keep the suspension rigid) I tightened both lower strut bolts to 75 flbs then re fitted the brake line to the strut bracket

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same again for the other side ,double check everything under the arches on both sides is tight and secure ,refit the wheels and slowly lower the car making sure the wheels don't foul on anything . once the cars on the ground tighten the 3 nuts on each top mount and check the front and rear wheel nuts are all tight .

I went for a 15mm drop on the front and 20mm on the back that left the old girl looking like this

 20160222_170631_zpsrue36ugf.jpg

 

 

 

 

       

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  • 1 month later...

I was hoping to fit the parallel fuel rails and fuel lab pressure regulator ,along with the sr40 turbo and thermal inlet manifold spacers .Unfortunately the fuel rails are for a phase 1.5 and won't fit my phase 1 inlet manifold without me fabricating a spacer .

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I always like to try something a little different so I turned the turbo coldside to try and lessen the heatsoak that the turbo outlet "U" bend creates

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I also fitted some thermal inlet spacers to help lessen the heat transfer from the heads.

20160402_153058_zpswukfkkqu.jpg

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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It took a fair while to work out the new route for the clocked coldside mod and converting the turbo from front to top entry .

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But with a hacksaw and a few silicone elbows it ended up like this and I've now cut out just under 2 mtrs of heatsoaking fmic pipework from under the bonnet .

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Bit gutted about the rails but it will give me something to do while I'm plucking up the courage to hack the loom again to fit the tomei z32 maf plug .

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Wow that's a lot of pipe work to have managed to get rid off what's the spool like now ?

You still got the same exhaust on as last year ? If so that and the chatter = one evil sounding car [emoji16]

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I had a rethink and I added a 600mm long ally elbow when fitting the reversed inlet. so it's not nearly 2 mtrs it's about 1.3 mtrs but all the same it should help keep the intake temps down In traffic[emoji6]

It does seem to pick up fairly quick and it's more of a gradual "pull" rather than a bit of lag and then it all coming in at once (like the tdo5 did) .

I've turned the boost and wastegate duty down from 1.58 bar to 0.7 and haven't used anymore than 70% throttle yet . Due to not having any way of checking the afr until it's tweeked on the dyno .

I'm hopefully selling the 5zigen system today and I'm currently running a 3" custom system but it's decated and does sound like a wrc car with the extra chatter in that vid I sent you stants [emoji41]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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  • 1 month later...

been quite busy lately and haven't had the time to fabricate some spacers to make the fuel rails fit and won't bother to fit the z32 maf until the rails are sorted ,as I'll have to get attowe to rescaled the airflow for the bigger maf .

He did kindly set up a afr warning so I've been gradually adding a slightly higher boost targets with the avcr . It was running 1.58 bar with the tdo5 16g ,so I know the fuelling is set for more boost. I upped it in 0.1 bar stages over a period of time (monitoring knock ,air flow,temps ect) and it's now running 1 bar 😎

I have treated it to a clay , Machine polish and a couple of coats of colinite but the only thing I've fitted is a sti 3 bar coolant cap🙄

20160529_193107_zpsnx42ce15.jpg

 

Even that felt a bit strange now that "liz" (my english bulldog ) is no longer under my feet 😔😇 ( rip little helper )

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I do miss liz helping and watching,  so I'll have to get the kids to come out and kick all my spanners and socket sets over instead 😊

Currently thinking about getting a baffled oil catch can too .the eBay special does work but needs relocating as it vents to atmosphere and you occasionally smell it in the cabin .so hopefully relocating a baffled can to the front will help 😉

 

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If i do get a baffled can I'm hoping the baffle will help to lessen the oil in the vapour . I'll be going for a can with a sponge filter on the outlet as well .Then venting it through a pipe near the bottom of the rad 😉

If it's still stinky I might add a inline filter in the vent pipe .

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Nice ! The stuff is well made you shouldn't be disappointed That's my next one, as the two port is catching virtually nothing saying that I've not changed the pcv valve yet could just all be gunking up

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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I probably just set it up vta again rather than putting air into the inlet that hasn't been measured by the maf . my pcv valve is in a box somewhere and my custom inlet manifold hasn't got any take offs to refit one anyways .

I hoping to find the time to at least start fabricating the spacers for the parallel fuel rails in the next couple of weeks.

As I'd like to get the map tweeked cos it's stalled twice when warm . I do think that's due to me shortening the fmic pipework and the bigger turbo core causing a lot more "flutter" when backing off the throttle.

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah the new baffled catch can will vta and if it still humms I'll vent it through a pipe at the bottom of the bay . It looks like a good bit of kit but I won't fit it untill I've got everything here to fit the parallel fuel rails at the same time .

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I made a spacer to get over the differences between the phase 1.5 fuel rails and the fixing bolt holes on my phase 1 inlet manifold.

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But I'm not happy with the end result and don't want to take any chances with fuel lines leaking . So I took the plunge and ordered some phase 1 billet ally fuel rails from Chris @ cdf [emoji4]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well a builder I work for had forgot to order the sand for the sand n cement outside I was supposed to be doing today[emoji15]

So I ended up with the day off and thought I'd might as well have a pop at fitting the compact billet ally baffled catch can [emoji41] .

I stripped the old Un'baffled vta one out and started to look for a ideal place to locate the new one at the front of the bay . I soon realised that until I've had a new intake hard pipe made up there's really nowhere at the front I can fit it [emoji57].

So I decided to fit it in the same area as the old one for now but just a little bit lower and closer to the scoop .

The ss braided hose is a proppa pita to cut neatly (even with a grinder ) and I got halfway through fitting it then rembered I hadn't got a "T" piece to join the cam breathers together [emoji55]

Luckily enough I had a old hard pipe of the correct dia so managed to make one up 5e0781c8d8bfdbc225f129f4873f54b1.jpg

Although it's not in the ideal location atm I did take it for a 30 min drive and the internal bronze filter with the added "ash" oil vapour filter seems to have stopped the oily smell in the cabin [emoji41]

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If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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I haven't had a vehicle speed reading to the apexi ecu since I've owned the v1sti and the main reason I fitted the apexi avcr was for the " gear judge function " . Which equals the boost in each gear when the engines under different loads in different gears . Even though I'd checked everything was connected up correctly I still didn't have a electrical vehicle speed reading to either the ecu or avcr .[emoji15]

After numerous attempts at trying to find the fault by having the clocks out and doing a test from ecu pins to dash plugs. someone suggested that I should try fitting another set of clocks. Luckily I have a spare set so put them in and booya I have a signal [emoji41]

Unfortunately just not a very reliable one , as this 1st gear pull shows .

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As I don't think my scoob is capable of hitting 14,352 kmph in 6th let alone 1 st [emoji23]

After a couple of days I decided to have a look at the back of the original clocks to see if I could spot the fault and maybe make a good set out of the pair . I spotted this .

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A screw missing from what looked like a terminal on the circuit board near the back of the mechanical speedo drive [emoji15]

So I whipped the (sort of ) working clocks out and they had a screw in that location. So I took the screw out of the working clocks and fitted it into the original clocks. .......

Works spot on now [emoji4]

So I've just gotta set the gear judge function up and hopefully I should hit my full boost target in the lower gears and not get any overboost in the higher gears [emoji41]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not that much of a update but the avcr is now working properly , has helped with spool and fixed the slight overboost in 5th/6th 😎

The misimoto baffled catch can has got rid of the oily smell in the cabin 😆

Unfortunately I'm still waiting for the billet fuel rails to turn up but I had a play with the braided fuel lines to reverse the flow and relocate the fuel lab fpr to the back of the bay . As I'd put the alternator in the way when fittingthe reversed inlet 🤔

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after a good couple of  months of subtle hints about getting a quieter 3" cat back and even loosening the back box every now n then to make it louder 😈 🙊😂the Mrs has finally given in and given me the ok to order the cobra track day system when I get back from Spain 😎

 

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The cobra one is very quiet compared to what you have now mate, does sound nice above 3k though [emoji7]

I guess you wouldn't have heard mine over the rest of the scoobs at pod last time

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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I'd imagine Mine will probably still be louder than most with the track day system on .Due to having the gruppe headers , custom up pipe and cusco decat downpipe but quieter under 3k would be ideal for me [emoji106] .

I did consider getting a hks silent cat back but I've decided i fancy something with a discreet looking tail pipe instead. I've never been to keen on the big bore tipped "jdm" look on exhausts [emoji55] and would like to regain a bit more of the stealth element I seem to have lost since changing things pre turbo [emoji6]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Cheers chap [emoji106]

Even after 20k and a regular spanking it doesn't leak a drop of oil or water , so keeping it clean is generally just a case of dusting off the road grime [emoji6]

I'll be much happier once it's running closer to the 400hp target though [emoji4]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Looking sexy Savage :) And not even talking about the car :laugh:

Funny I was looking at some old vids and came across me an stants at the Pod yapping away when you was up against the Skyline GTR the 900bhp 

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Yeah that was about as fair a match as me against the civic type r I rinsed on the next 1/4 mile run [emoji23]

Cheers gambit ....Have you been checking out my f.b pic of my burnt leg (missed a bit with the suncream ) [emoji57]

Dunno if I'll have another bash at the 1/4 @ japshow finale in October but I'll be on the stand Sunday all the same [emoji6]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Yeah see it mate I'm sure you must have been ginger in your past life Haha :laugh: Can't remember if got that one. I know you took my Gopro but the only thing you managed to capture was the top part of your loaf :laugh: 

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