February 15, 201411 yr On the way to work and back I have noticed a problem. When accelerating the car is juddering. The brake pedal is much much harder and much higher up the pedal travel. And the front right brake was smoking when I arrived. And I didn't brake heavily or anything like that. And the steering was vibrating at 55mph and above. Could it be a seized calliper? Will have a proper look either tomorrow afternoon or Tuesday depending on time but any info on what to look for would be great.
February 15, 201411 yr Subaru 4 pot caliper is prone to sticking mate you can get a rebuild kit for them
February 15, 201411 yr Pain in the fecking !Removed! these brakes, dunno how bad the rears are but if im leaving it for more than a day i dont even bother with the handbrake just to reduce the chance
February 15, 201411 yr Author So my problem seems like a caliper then. It is on four pot calipers. So guess I will be rebuilding a caliper soon.
February 15, 201411 yr Author What are the upgrade options for the caliper? Already got a 4 pot system and new pads and discs are waiting to go on this week already.
February 15, 201411 yr Not much else unless you want 6 pots, was going to suggest the 4pots if you had already done that.
February 15, 201411 yr When you rebuild them do an idiots guide so er i can learn from someone else's mistakes haha
February 15, 201411 yr Author I will attempt a write up. Will be my first ever so might not be the best!! But will try. Should I get one win pistons? Like this http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/~godspeed/product.php?id_product=150 Or one with just seals like this http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/231152981308?cmd=VIDESC Thanks
February 15, 201411 yr Depends on how bad the pistons are when you take them out, if it were me I'd buy new, can never be too careful with brakes.
February 15, 201411 yr Author Have found a seal kit and pistons separately for a lot lot less. Is it ok to buy like that? Or is there something else coming in the full kit that I'm missing?
February 15, 201411 yr PM Cusco on here if you want I know he rebuilds them all for a living and does exchanges too
February 15, 201411 yr Author Thinking of just doing it myself. Doesn't look too hard. Just a bit time consuming really. And keen to save as much money as I can.
February 15, 201411 yr Author Well I have taken the plunge and bought the kit for myself so will be rebuilding them. Got 4 pistons and all seals. Will try to do a write up but may take a while before I have time. Wish me luck
February 15, 201411 yr best of luck with it - take your time and try to pump the pistons out as much as you can in situ (remove caliper from mounts remove brake pads and press brake pedal, if one piston moves block that with a brake pad or piece of wood and pump brake until the other moves) - makes it easier than on the bench if you dont have a compressor or grease gun with an adapter - brake piston pullers are fine if the piston is not seized
February 15, 201411 yr It's pretty easy once you got it on a table think there are YouTube clips to help
February 15, 201411 yr As said above good luck I've not done any myself but have seen videos on it and I'm in the same boat with a N/S pistone I've been meaning to have ago myself but not had chance. Well time :( so think I might end up needing to take the blue pill this time :(
February 16, 201411 yr I would recommend replacing all pistons after seeing my mates, only one moved but if he'd left that sods law it would be the first to seize up next time
February 16, 201411 yr Makes sense to change them all least you know they're all done and free moving without worrying anytime the one or two you didn't change will go :)
February 16, 201411 yr Author Yeah I was going to just change it all, seems more sensible. Parked the car up today when I got home, left the hardbrake on and had a look at the brakes and on both sides the pads were against the discs. is that normal? Out of habit I held the brake and clutch when turning car off so is that normal? Probably a silly question but I have been up since before 6 and as a student that means I'm not functioning well.
February 16, 201411 yr dipping the clutch on startup is good practice just to remove a little more load on the engine. I dont know how the hand brake functions on a classic but if it is a cable to a lever on the caliper applying some hydraulic pressure then yes, both pads will be on the disc
February 16, 201411 yr Author Even if I took the handbrake off? Assuming the pads would only release if engine was on?
February 16, 201411 yr The engine running only helps with the servo assist part to make it easier for you pressing the brake pedal, the pads sit on the surface of the disc or !Removed! paper close, when pressure is released after you take your foot off the pedal the pads only move slightly from the discs themselves. But you should be able to spin the wheel freely when the brakes are not applied, if not the pads could be binding / dragging (possibly due to caliper issues) which builds up heat and wears your pad out This minimal movement is why you get eventual seizure of the pistons (combined with dirt, heat and brake dust build up)
February 16, 201411 yr Author Ahh that makes sense, I know how brakes work but for some reason in my had always thought that they moved further away from the disc than they do I guess. Not sure why I thought so but oh well. And not bothered about the pads or discs because I already had new ones waiting to be fitted, in fact happy I didn't put them on before this!!
February 16, 201411 yr I've always dipped the clutch when I start cars, as well as taking the load of the engine it ensures the gearbox is disengaged from the engine so if it's in gear you won't lurch on starting , handy for bank job getaways :) With the newer cars you have to dip the clutch to start the car,
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