Miggs

i always use slick50 additives for issues with parts, i've used oil additive, steering rack additive and gearbox additive, i can say that each one has far exceeded my expectations, it's dearer than most but i think well worth the extra cash

i was thinking top mount too, it sounds more like a moving part than a pressure part, if it's a dry part it might be worth spraying some lube on individual bits that you suspect, spray one part then test drive then another then test drive, once it's gone quiet it's the last thing you sprayed, maybe it's the type of shocker used, if you have had gas filled ones and gone to an oil filled one it might make a different noise when running, this is based on not knowing the exact noise or severity of said noise, i could be way off mark

sexy, love the white classics, really really love the white ones, and i am loving the orange side lights, are they tinted orange or genuine yank ones? i've been looking for a set for mine

best of luck with it, clean looking example there with decent power figures too, shouldn't stick around long

welcome to the forum pal, hope you enjoy your stay, i love the deep red impreza's, such a unique colour, not many in that shade and it's really growing on me, that classic is gorgeous, get some pics of your bug posted up mate, we all love pics here

ok, just did a couple of vids but theres no real sound difference without revving it and i can't do that and hold my phone at the back at the same time, when the wife gets in i could get her to hold it but she's coming off a 14 hour night shift so it's not even a good idea asking with the state she will be in lol if theres nothing been posted when she's off nights i'll get it sorted for ya and the bung i have has been bent outwards slightly on the lip so it's a real snug fit in the tailpipe, this means i don't need the nut and bolt but i do have to pull it out with pliers when it's in there

i clean forgot about this thread, i'm gonna go outside and do a vid of mine, back in a sec

the guy that runs Cams performance in Blackburn got this from standard internals Brian Coward (STi Type UK) 490.6 bhp 407.8 lb/ft this was my first rolling road day with a group of subarus, i owned golf at the time, didn't take long for me to bin it for a scooby

heres the sti

i have kids lol ok, this next pic is the best i can do without giving away the main character, i can get more of other characters but they will give a bit away about the type of film, it might just be my taste in films as i'm currently going through the films in my collection lol

i'll keep my ears to the ground for a new one for you too, damn shame to see them pics of the old one, although it is still on the road as the registration check showed it whereas if it's not on the road it says look up failed, that being said i know you have attachments to it but with that amount of damage i'd be a bit wary of having it back tbh, that's just me though

bridge to terabithia :P

yeh i saw it, no worries guys, if i can help i'm more than happy to ;)

just been watching a vid on the vortech s/c and it says it doesn't whine :( turbo it is then

aye, that's the ticket lol i like the low down grunt of a supercharger and in some cases the whine you get from the way it runs, that being said turbo's will usually give more at the top end so i suppose it's what you want to do with the car, if high speed is your thing then i guess turbos the way if you like to do fast road or track driving you may prefer supercharger all this talk of more power and mods and all he asked was what do we think sorry pal, i'll try and keep on topic in future

cheers pal, it's nice to have someone help sometimes, i knew nothing about it until my pipe burst under heavy braking, my neighbour was an ex mechanic and he told me what i needed and how to do it so i'm just passing on the knowledge ;)

yeh my email is address has 2002 in despite the fact i created it in 2000, the wifes has 2000 in but she created that in 99, and these days i'd need 201320132014994826 at the end of my name to have it as an email address lol

if the outline, which by the way i can't see, gets to you the best way to get rid is with a machine, it's likley in the lacquer coating so will need melting out, machine polishers work on generating a bit of heat by high speed motion which melts the lacquer sightly to fill in any small lines or groves, they are a good buy for detailing as it saves time and gives a great finish, if you were to buy one and don't know how to use one i would suggest getting a DA as theres less chance of a first timer doing any damage with one, i lent my rotary to a mate the other week and told him to use the soft pads and low speeds on any edges, he did the exact opposite and made some new go faster stripes on the swage lines of his car, dark blue paint and white lines

i've done my own brake pipes in the past and it's dead easy, the brake pipe nuts can be bought from most places that sell car related items, you will need a brake flaring tool too, these can be picked up less than £20 last time i looked, also get a pipe cutter that will do the diameter of the brake pipe, you should be able to pick all the items up from the same place, brake pipe is usually the same thickness so that shouldn't be an issue, i bought a roll that did all the pipework on my mk2 golf for £15 just for example heres some codes from machine mart, type them into the search bar on the machine mart site 051215318 = cutter 040212935 = flaring tool 040215399 =flaring and cutter in one kit these are numbers for ebay 271141390550 = brake pipe 220938051643 = brake pipe nut all sizes are a guess as i don't know off the top of my head, the nuts are the first bits you need to get right as you will need the right size and thread for the subaru, once you have the size of them that should tell you what size pipe you need, you don't need a bending tool as it's quite easy to bend brake pipe by hand, all i would say is don't bend any creases into it or you will have to scrap that bit and start again, gentle flowing bends, take off the old pipe as best as you can and this will give you an idea of how to shape and where to bend the new pipe PUT THE NUTS ON BEFORE YOU FLARE THE ENDS any problems just ask

i have a decat, well a full no bpx system till you get to the backbox, and a cone filter, i have a manual boost controller, a HKS FCD and all on the standard uk 2000 ecu, i too am a version 3 owner, my car over fuels a touch but boosts fine and runs well, there is a spacer you can get for the lambda so it's not gone from a few fumes to all the fumes thus the ecu reading wrong, all you do is take the sensor out, screw the spacer in, screw the sensor into that and job done heres what i'm on about clicky

Just checked and it not insured at the moment, I hope it's not worst case scenario for you pal

Personally I'd strip them down and try and plough the cash into something more solid, but that being said I have space and time so it's easy for me to think that way, I have never been a fan of welding cars, my mindset is if it's structural then I'd rather leave it and get something solid, it's a major part of a powerful car that's built light so other areas are getting the stresses before it was welded, again that's just my personal fear as it were, on the plus side at least you know what to look for on the next one

Welcome aboard, I like the look of them myself but that's the limit of my experience with them, I think many buyers have been expecting impreza turbo performance and have been disappointed when they haven't got it, if I was in the market for one I'd be tempted to look at the supercharger kits you can get for them

Spit on that, I'm a massive fan of low cars but although a subie looks good on its !Removed! I'd hate to ruin the handling, I think a subtle drop like that is spot on

Just got a text back 18x8.75 no spacers, and had to put full camber on and roll the back arches