Miggs

The crank sensor that is, the map sensor is next to the boost solenoid in the drivers inner front wing

I've never done them myself but have been told they are relatively simple to get to

Could do with keeping any useful posts pinned in the relevant sections everything somebody posts something that could be of use

Does sound like air in the pipes, I've had a split pipe and that gives a touch of brakes then the pedal continues down and the brakes slowly release with the foot to the floor, I've had air in the system too and this was pedal to the floor first press but as you pump the pedal it gets better till you can stop, I'd get the car up and if possible all wheels off and get someone pumping the pedal while you walk/crawl round and see if you can see any leaking fluid or bubbles

Proper old school wheels lol, been ages since I've seen a set, they were catching as they were a 35 offset but the wife's keen on them for here's so as soon as I get some cash I'm gonna get some spigot rings to fit her car, saves me washing the stupidly hard to get to bits on her current rims

Just catching up on here as it's been a while, I noticed you put all the info I just mentioned in a thread DOH

I was under the impression that early imprezas were 5x100 and the newer ones are 5x112 not 114, I could be wrong, also a good site for wheel pcd info is http://www.carlsalter.com/wheel_fitments.html

I keep toying with the idea of doing what the vag boys do, most run Porsche, merc, even Bentley rims on their vw's, it's as easy for us to do as the stud patterns are the same between us and vag motors all we would need is the adapters to change pcd

With regards to the vents, the small ones should have a plate on the underside to stop excess water coming through anyway, mines got the mini scoop on the side of the air filter and did soak the air filter when it rained, I shaped a piece of tin to cover the hole but bent down the back part of the tin to allow air to go into the bay, as for the big scoop, there shouldn't be any contact issues but if there is it will be the rubber skirt, this can be removed easily by pulling the black push in pins that hold it on As for the exhaust you can buy reducer sections for the style of pipe that slides into each other but you would likely need to get the connecting flanges welded to the reducer section where needed

I thought most if not all subaru owners would know all this, there's a big list of features you can activate and deactivate too with the keypad on the sigmas, I found this info when trying to find out what the keypad did in my golf, also worth noting that only the ones with the star and hash on the keypad can be programmed, the ones without cannot

Welcome aboard fella, could be a dodgy Maf, there is a diagnostics you can do on it, under the drivers side of the dash there are 4 plugs, 2 green and 2 black, they will all be unplugged, plug the 2 black together and turn the ignition on, watch the check engine light and note the flashes it does, there is a full write up on it on the net, I think on scoobypedia but I'm not at the laptop right now so hopefully someone else will be along that knows for sure

I didn't even know the existed let alone know somebody with one, I like it, a lot

His cousin bought it for a steal, iirc he had his classic impreza exhaust on which was a prodrive one I think, he had to weld a couple inches of pipe to the tip to clear the bumper

With regards the lights issue, I didn't have this issue in the subie it was in a vw but I guess it can happen to most cars, I had an alarm unit fitted and the fitters had cut a cable tie holding a bunch of wires to the steering column, after 2 years of no issues I suddenly and randomly started blowing the fuel pump fuse, the first few I didn't know why as nothing seemed to be causing it until I was fitting a new amp one day and I noticed a bunch of wires hanging down near the clutch pedal, 2 wires had been rubbed through with the pedal causing them to earth and it was this causing the fuel pump fuse to pop, I never would have thought to check wires under the dash, might not be the cause for you but just putting that up there in case your running out of things to check

Dogma had a green and silver fuzzy until weekend and he fitted some gold speedines to that and it didn't look as bad as I expected to be honest

i had some 17" gold speedlines on when i bought it than i got some temp fit kahn RSR replica rims, also 17's and i have just a few days ago got some WR1 replicas in white and 17" also

i have thought that myself to be fair, i always said if i got one i would do that and paint the intercooler black so you can't tell, i was then asked why would i get rid of an alloy bonnet for a steel one? well my turbo 2000 has a steel bonnet like i believe do all the uk turbo imprezas, it's the imports that have the alloy ones so not a big problem there then lol

welcome aboard pal, hope you have an enjoyable stay

yeh mines a uk classic mate, i got 36mm festoons off ebay and it takes 32's but luckily the pins stretched to 36, at least i think it was that way round, i have a newage map reading light in the front and the standard uk light in the middle

i have a bung for when mine needs to be quiet and to explain the difference, my neighbour said he can feel my car idling through his house when it's warming up with the baffle out when it's in he doesn't even know the cars running

that's a good price even if it's just as a weekend runabout, would make someone a great project, the oxygen sensor could cause this fault i guess as if it's not reading right it will over or under fuel to compensate, you can get cheap universal ones off ebay that work for a week or 2, will let you see if that is the issue

the caps aren't under a lot of pressure so not removing the cap shouldn't be an issue

i've heard of TK before as they have some supercars on gran turismo from years back, never knew they did tuning parts for others though

if you look on you tube there are plenty of vids to show you what it sounds like, mine knocks a little when going up hill in a high gear but that's all it seems to do, mines on 153k and boosts very well to 1.3bar no other unusual sounds

i have led ones in mine, i think it's only the later canbus cars that cause problems but there are many canbus error free leds available now