Miggs

howdo guys and gals, been a while since i last posted but with xmas and the wifes uni exams it was a bot hectic round here, good news is she passed and is now a qualified midwife, bad news is she has no job yet so moneys tight happy new year to you all, hope you all had a good holiday, i however was put into a !Removed! mood as of boxing day when some daft bint decided she wanted to be in the first lane on the motorway at the same time as me, she swiped the side of my car and i've been having talks with insurance people since, i got the call about 30 mins ago to say it's a CAT-C write off so i thought i'd let you guys know that it's going to be curtains for the wagon when the money comes through, if anybody would like anything for a V3 classic wagon (GF8) let me know and i'll treat you on a first come first served basis, it's fairly standard by way of mods so nothings going to have massive value, i have a spare decat in the garage so if anybody has any desire for one thats an option, if theres anything you wanna know just ask, cheers guys, i may not get back to you the same day but i will get back to you

Welcome aboard fella, hope you enjoy the forum as much as you will enjoy subie ownership

I've resigned myself to the thoughts of it being a gasket, worse case scenario expected I'm no more bummed than now if it is, if it's better than worst case then it's a bonus lol Cheers guys for the tips, looks like I'm gonna cut my loses on this one, appreciate the help despite it being bad news

I know this one, I'm going to hold off unless I can think of a decent film to post

I ran it for a good half hour with water topped up at all times, it didn't use any excessive amounts in fact it barely changed, of the head gasket had gone surely there would be issues at idle as well as driving? It idles fine, no high temp, no water loss, no steam from the exhaust, driving it and it shoots the temp gauge right up then goes down just above half way then up and so on, pull up somewhere and as it's idling it steadies back in the middle, I'm prepared to invest in a new rad, stat and header cap if one or all 3 will fix it but I can't afford to spend all that and find its the gasket as I just can't afford to get it fixed or do it myself, my wife's out of work as of last week, I'm not able to work, we have 2 cars to keep on the road and 2 kids so if it's going to be the head gasket(s) I'll strip the car down and sell the parts and buy another when funds allow, if it's an easy fix then I can borrow money to keep it Just in a real dilemma

Appologies I just saw the bottom of the post as I hit send doh

Gutted for you mate, what did it fail on?

my mates toasted his clutch at 350bhp on a wrx bug box and he killed the box altogether with the same box and an uprated clutch when he hit 418bhp, he's now upgrading to the 6speed setup

right, this is driving me nuts now and i have spammed that poor fellas welcome thread enough with my problems so heres the new one by me my car developed an oil leak which was getting to the point of ridiculousness so i did something about it, i was getting 10 miles to a gallon, of oil, i stripped the front end down as i thought it was the front crank seal, i got the belt and the seal ready to do the job and found the pipe for the oil return looked dodgy, i jet washed the entire car underneath and on top of the engine then after leaving to dry over night i ran the car for a minute and inspected the oil leak with the rad and bumper removed, turns out it was a minute split in the oil filter, so i cured that problem but the car had murky water in the header when i got it so i flushed it to find it was radweld, since flushing it i haven't had any heat through the blowers, everything else has been spot on, temp gauge bang in the centre but no heat, coming into winter i decided to sort it, i poured radweld back in as i can't afford a rad right now despite no visible leaking i was using a tiny bit of water, since filing i still couldn't get heat, i googled it and despite the header being higher than the rad i thought i may have an airlock, i pumped the top rad hose for half an hour to make sure i got all the air out, checked the 2 fuses for the matrix then ran it on the school run, half way there and it was belting out heat, i was proper chuffed, then later that evening on a drive i spotted the temp gauge going through the roof, i stopped the car and the fan was going, first time that's happened, once the fan had stopped i had a good look round and spotted the top of the header was wet where the cap has released pressure as well as the tube at the front near side with the cap saying coolant on it being full of bubbles and wet, i left it over night then yesterday i used an old trick i learnt a while back of how to release air locks from systems that have no header, i cut the bottom off 2 2litre bottles and taped up the ends to fit one in the top of the header and one in the coolant pipe, this creates an air tight seal and allows you to fill the system to that above the rad, i then ran the engine with the bottles half full of water and in position, after a while the header bottle spewed lots of bubbles and the heater was blowing hot, i left it for a while, about 20 mins to half an hour to get the fans to kick in but it didn't go past half way on the gauge so i assumed that was it fixed, i went for a drive around under boost as well as gently and all was well, this morning after dropping the kids at school i saw the temp gauge shoot up again, by the time i got back the fan was going so left it for a while, i have been out this morning to see if theres anything specific causing it with my driving style but i took it as easy as i could changing gear between 2-3k revs, it shot up again so i came home, when i got back the water had boiled out again and the heaters were blowing cold on the entire drive out sorry for the massive write up but i want to paint as good a picture as possible, i've only ever had VW's before this and if the header on a VAG car boils over that's usually the sign of the headgasket having gone, there is no oil in the scoob's header or mayo on the cap, obviously due to the design of the oil filler theres not likely to be any on the oil cap, there doesn't appear to be water in the oil system either with the oil still being thick and golden please help me

i was just going to suggest upgrading the reverse lights as that will illuminate more behind the car, mines a classic wagon tited on the back windows, it's dark not sure what grade though, was the same all round when i got it, removed the fronts on the advise of a policeman friend, well he just laughed when i asked him to check them with a meter most aftermarket tints on the fronts are illegal despite what grade film you use, if you use a 30% tint that's most likely illegal, i was told that the majority of factory glass is tinted as standard and usually 20% +, this combined with a 20% film puts you over the edge straight away and most customers see a 5/10% tint before fitted and opt out of doing the fronts so not many tinting firms use it anymore they just tint to the customers requirements with advice on legality

welcome aboard, if you'd have asked a few moths ago i had a full set off a sport that i weighed in as i didn't think there would be much call for them, sorry fella but best of luck in the hunt, as said have you tried breakers. or even people breaking sports on ebay?

The polishing booth is where I get all my products and advice, he has a website but he's just branched out into pushbikes and apparel so he's too busy to update it, best looking on his ebay account for bits, fire him a mail via the website for advice or give him a bell, he's a keen scooby fan and is a top bloke to boot, anything you need he can help

Autoglym leather cleaner and balm is great for keeping it supple, especially round the groin area, as for chamois, I used to swear by genuine leather chamois but learnt due to the nature of them they hold any residual dirt on the surface which can cause fine scratches and swirls, I use a micro fibre drying towel, I have 2 in the garage incase I'm doing a large car Other than that looks like I was kinda teaching of how to such eggs lol

I've had no personal experience with angel wax but I use poor boys white hole or blue natty paste for light cars and black hole or dodo juice hard candy for dark, they are polish and wax combos, megs clay is natural clay, dodo juice do a nice poly clay, if the cars been done once in the year with natural then it's easier and cheaper to keep on top of it with poly, as for investment in good products, I've probably got more invested in detailing stuff than I have in the car lol, I find the better the product the less work you have to put in, I use sponges for all applications too as once the sponge is moist :O it doesn't take as much to do the car as with a cloth, I also use microfiber for everything as it doesn't scratch the car, make sure they have silk or satin round the cloths as cheap ones can scratch with the edging, then there's the 2 bucket method and grit guards and snow foam, the list goes on lol

ok i have uploaded it to dropbox and sent you the link via email, also heres the link incase you don't get the mail Click for linkypoos

did you get anything through? i sent you the pdf and also a plain mail after that?

polish isn't wax, it beads like wax but doesn't give the same protection, also autoglym is very easy to remove, if you have struggled then it's either out of its best before date or you car needs a good claying first, super resin is the one with the red square, the old formula is famed for leaving white dust on the car after buffing, the new formula is awesome and leaves no residue whatsoever, get a clay kit and clay the car, natural clay with go gooey in the rain/water so you need dry weather and proper lube, a poly clay is basically soft rubber, you can use in the rain or with water as a lube, after clayed get the super resin out and then when buffed get a good carnuba based wax on it, buff again then get a sealer on top of that, it will last a good few months with just a quick wash to get it sparkling and after the clay everything will be easier to apply and remove, you only need a small amount of polish when applying, i use a detailing sponge to apply and a thumbnail size blob will do a quarter of the roof

Understandable

Auto glym wax or polish ?

Yeh I'm starting to think again about the putty, will use some pipe I've got from various engines in the garage

I've used the putty on throttle bodies before and it sets like steel

I use poly rubber clay bars for detailing in poor weather, also there's many a quick detailing sprays that will add a layer of wax to the car even in rain, autoglym aqua wax is good stuff

I was thinking of you posting them not taking them yaself

Sent it just before I posted here, will try again when I can get chance, it might be in my sent items so may be able to do it from the tablet now, will be back in a sec... ...ok I forwarded it from the sent folder to you again, the email you gave is right isn't it? Does your email delete or block spam? Might have blocked my message thinking it was spam due to the attachment My email is [email protected]

Took my cam belt cover off today and the very last bolt rounded off, sods law lol