Tlag

Sounds like a project to me :)

Why is the current engine not repairable? I can see the attraction of just buying an engine and dropping it in but you could get the same problem ( or worse) the following week.

I have heard mention of people using Nissan mafs due to them being cheaper. It's possible that's what has happened here. I don't know if they are two or three wire but it could explain it. From the other side of the problem, any oiled air filters are bad for subaru mafs. The particulates of oil in the air flow, gradually deteriorate the metal strip in the MAF. I don't think it's a case of corrosion. It's more a case that oil eventually fully coats it and reduces it's ability to measure the air flow. In your picture of the MAF plug, it clearly shows 3 wires. I can't see the middle one due to the wrapping. Is that wire the same colour as the broken one you found?

Cracking day today. Got lots done. :) The IC silicone hoses finally arrived so I could get on with the final fit of the pipe work. I first revisited the oil cooler mountings and in the end had to change the route of the cooler pipes as my original plan put them too close to the exhaust. So, oil cooler, front mount and radiated fitted. Then onto the IC pipe work. Between trial fitting and today, I had fitted a brake cylinder pitch stopper. Today it became apparent that I couldn't go that as it simply won't fit around the pipes. So out that came :( Anyway, here's the pipes fitted at last. With that fitted, I found the catch can bracket put the cans too close to the pipes, do a bracket adjustment was required and then, finally for today fitted the cans and pipe work And the air breather filters loosely fitted for now I failed to order the pipe for the recirc valve so could be a few days before I get that. Simply forgot about it :(

Having thought about this, it sounds about right. For that reason, I think I will put heat wrap around the intercooler pipe that goes above it, rather than a turbo blanket. My IC setup has a temp sensor so I will run it without anything to start with and then wrap it to see what difference there is.

I' m glad I just read this thread. I hadnt given the FMIC pipework a thought as it passes over the turbo. Something else to add to the list. Just came across this; looks the exact same thing but cheaper. from the same part of the UK too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-TURBO-BLANKET-HEAT-SHIELD-COVER-T3-TURBOS-Z0929-/230925609599?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35c43d2a7f

As above. You cant just bolt a turbo on a NA car, you would need a turbo engine to start with, plus a lot of supporting ancilleries, wiring, ecu, etc. Financially its just not worth it. Plus, you would pay more insurance on that than you would on a standard turbo car.

Ok, confession time :) The brackets for the catch cans are made of a piece of very thick angle iron with pre drilled holes in, a bit like the stuff you can make racking from but really thick. I'm using the same stuff to make the IC brackets and much thinner stuff for the FPR. Once it's cut to suit and painted, it works quite well.

A few more hours spent today. It's getting closer:) No pics today as it looks much like it did before today started. Fitted the exhaust today so the underside is almost done. Just for the anti lift kit and 'H' brace to put on. Made new brackets for the catch cans and FPR as I wasn't happy with the first ones. I then finished the fuel pipe system. Thin vacuum pipe arrived so I fitted the solenoid box with the 3 port solenoid. Whilst in that area, I also fitted the brake master cylinder pitch stopped. I have a parcel at the post office that I can't collect until tomorrow, so I'm hoping that's the IC silicone pipes so I can install those tomorrow. I'm not happy with the position of the oil cooler so that's to be looked at tomorrow as well. Once that's done, I can finish wiring the gauge loom up, refit the rad, oil and coolant and............. :)

Is that what you have? A grim speed boost controller/regulated? I've never had or fiddled with a controller before. I've always thought of them as the quickest way to a new turbo or engine possible. I'm open to be educated and I'm sure if set up by a mapper or experienced tuner it should be fine. If you are just asking about them, I apologise for the above. ;)

5yrs or 60k is what I recommend. It's not a difficult job but it is fiddly because of where it is and the angles you are looking at the marks.

Hahaha, I hope not :) A good day today. Got a fair bit done but whoever said it's the small stuff that takes the time was dead one. First thing I did was gut a legacy solenoid box and fit the Impreza three port inside it. I just think it looks neater than the individual solenoid a on show. Then I looked at the FMIC set up. I've ordered new silicone joiners and clamps but they haven't arrived yet. Most of the morning was taken up working out what goes where, what brackets are needed, making them, painting and installing them. Then making the intercooler pipes the same colour as each other. This is the first mock up: And the IC itself: Finally after much adjusting and fabricating, I got the IC to go back further which means the bumper didn't need quite so much work. Then the pipes were painted: That was as far as I could go with that, so I moved on to the catch cans and fuel pressure regulator. If you've not been following, I have two catch cans. The 2.5 breaths heavier than the 2.0, so one is for the crankcase and one for heads. Next will be plumbing the cans and the FPR up, fitting the IC pipes and radiator, then the exhaust and firing it up. Hopefully when I get the next full day on it or a couple of half days. Here's a pic with the FMIC fitted and the bumper. Stealthy or what? :)

I've got a full day on it tomorrow :) At the end of tomorrow I should have a clear idea of when fire up time will be.

6 hrs of progress later, not a lot to see really. Lots of fiddly stuff done.

Definitely get the codes read. The engine should be fine, it sounds like a sensor has had a problem with something and given you fuel/boost cut which explains the jolt. After that it would go into limp mode to protect itself which is why you could still drive it. Could be a number of things but the codes will reveal all.

I wonder if one of the cambelt pulleys is wearing out. If it is, it normally means the belt is touching things it shouldn't and the edge wears down. The resulting powdered belt material makes it's way to the bottom of the belt covers. It may be worth taking off a belt cover or two to see if they are clean or full of black debris

Does the field belong to the pub?. If so, surely the pubs insurance should cover the basics, especially as they will be hoping to make money over the counter from it.

You don't say what model year the car is. It sounds like the recovery guy was guessing. The way to do this properly is check for codes. If it's new enough, it will need to be plugged in to a machine. If it's an older model, you can check the codes manually. Do a search on the forum for code reading and you should find the topic. This may sound stupid but you hadn't just put fuel in had you? I recently heard of similar symptoms on a legacy was caused by putting diesal in by mistake.

Great news, glad you got it sorted as I was running out of ideas :)

I was originally thinking of a wide arch job but the panels are really REALLY expensive and they are for an Impreza so need cutting to fit the Legacy. Plus, I'm really not sure how that look would work with a front bumper so I'm still in the thinking stage. One thing I do know though. At some point it will have a respray. There are a lot of very small chips in the paint and one wing dosnt match as it had some paint at some point in its life and it's the wrong shade. Apparently if you just apply the cashmere yellow, over the original yellow, it's too dark. It needs to be put over a white base. I'm also considering changing the colour very slightly. One particular model of Legacy, the S-edition was available to special order in yellow. It's only one shade darker than cashmere but with a metallic clear coat, so it shines more. I've done some research and now know the colour code so that's a possibility. :)

If the pump primes as you said, then the pump is ok. It's just that, of certain sensors fail, the failed signal to the ecu will stop the engine from starting to protect itself. When you look at the timing marks, it's quite normal for them to be 'not quite' lined up. I don't know why but sometimes, they just don't. I suppose, if the heads have been skimmed or a different thickness of head gasket is used, the gaps are different. I'm also guessing that the actual length of belt varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. I know gates belts seem to be tighter than other I have used.

Yes, definitely. If it flows fuel whilst cranking, we can rule out a lot of stuff that inhibits the fuel pump

I would say check the cam pos and crank pos sensors, but they would throw codes. If you take off a fuel line and put it into a jar, turn the key so you get the lights up on the dash. At that point, you should get a brief gush of fuel into the jar. If you then turn the key further as if to start the engine, do you still get fuel flowing into the jar continually?

That's a good question. I don't know. I'm used to Legacies that don't have the TGV kits anyway. Another fairly common issue is the fuel lines. Have you put them on the right way round? Ones flows fuel from the filter to the fuel rails, one returns it to the tank. Is it possible, you have checked for fuel from the correct line but have the solid pipes confused?

Hi chap, first things to check will be the wiring. The fuel injectors obviously have electrical connectors going to them. The injectors nearest the front should have very pale grey plugs and the two at the rear should have darker grey plugs. If you reverse them, it will never start. If you have coil packs, it's exactly the same too. Obviously if you have a single coil pack and ht leads, they must go to the right plugs.