Pommy

I want that exact car!!! Was what I was really looking for but were all a lot more than that!!! Good luck with the search, plenty out there

Welcome, always plenty of Subaru's out there, just finding the right one for you can be tricky!!! Once you drive it you will fall in love.

Be careful about recording a conversation on private property. Tell them that you are recording it so they are aware of whats going on and then its ok but if they are unaware then I'm not sure about the legality of it (it would be ignored as evidence I believe because they could argue a right to privacy in their property or entrapment.) If they say no recording just go with the above and leave if an argument erupts. On the public street they can say no to recording all they want but you are allowed to, either voice or video is completely legal, there is no right to privacy in public. Just make sure you make them aware of recording, like all the call centers do when they call up.

Yeah I got the apexi one, couldn't justify the extra price, the apexi one only does timer and A/F, O2 levels, and volts whereas hks does everything else I mentioned in a previous post. Works perfectly for me and for £12 can't really complain. If it goes wrong I can just buy a new one!!!

Yes that's the one, works perfectly with mine, gives voltage and can give A/F ration and something else although I didn't bother with that. Works perfectly for me.

Never had knock myself mate but from what I know about it you will know it when you get it. Did you change your plugs, leads and check coils? (Can't remember if you said in the other post) Could be a faulty sensor by the sounds so worth checking that out. Hopefully someone with some more knowledge will be along shortly.

Stand your ground, do not let them bully you into anything. Get the receipt if you can although you have some proof that the work was carried out there in terms of phone calls. Do not make any more agreements verbally make them write everything down (if handwritten get a signature and Name, or even better through email) this way they can't deny what has happened. You have to give them the opportunity to fix the car for no extra cost as they damaged the vehicle, while proving this is a challenge it is doable as everything was fine till they touched it and now there is visible damage, get photos of the damage with a time stamp on it. Then contact them and see what they say, if they refuse call other garages and get written quotes to fix the issue. Send a copy of these quotes with a letter to the garage saying you are going to be billing them the average of the quotes for the work carried out. They have to pay this if they damaged the car. Also make a complaint to the standards agency in the local area. This all covered in the Supply of goods and services act of 1982 (http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1982/29) however a simplified version of your rights can be found at (http://www.tradingstandards.gov.uk/cgi-bin/brighton-hove/con1item.cgi?file=*ADV0046-1011.txt) Always worth quoting from the actual act so they understand that you know your rights and you are not the average idiot who will get steamrolled. The most important thing is to get everything in writing, refuse to accept oral offers until written. If they refuse to write anything down leave and go to other garages. The above is all from a legal point of view. The other thing to do is name and shame the business in every public place you can, forums, advice sites and anywhere else you can think of. When doing this write the review with a calm perspective and perfect grammar and spelling so you don't come off sounding like an angry customer but as a calm and civilized person with a reasonable review. This often makes a difference very quickly as it directly affects their business. If they have a facebook page also comment on the there. Just get it out there really. It is a !Removed! situation which unfortunately happens a lot. What people should learn from this is that take photo's of anything before the work is carried out, and get a written agreement before undergoing any work, while verbal contracts are still legally binding it is harder to prove them. And I'm in no way having a go at you, its not your fault as you shouldn't have this happen and you shouldn't have to take photo's to prove that they broke it unfortunately that is the way with some people. I only use a garage I trust personally and thankfully they are close to me. However I understand not everyone has this so as every mother says 'its better to be safe than sorry.' I hope it gets cleared up, just remember to be calm and collected, anger will just make it worse and get everything in writing, don't engage in a verbal argument. If they start having a go just tell them to expect to here from you in writing and you will not be getting into an argument. And send anything with a courier or recorded post so you have proof they have received it.

I like it, think the bottom one would go well.

It should be. I imagine there are harnesses out there. Should be a similar ingnition wiring system. Just using a button instead of a key.

Well a slight change of plan for me I think. Trying to be sensible for a while. Going to leave all the power mods and coil over mods for the moment. Will instead be fixing a load of little niggles and making sure the car is running perfectly as standard. Starting with the steering rack boots which are apparently perishing. Then checking all the bushes and seeing what else should be upgraded. Also am going to upgrade brake hoses as I just realised how poor the brakes are after driving my mums golf. Even with 4 pots. Also painting the boot and returning the wheels.

Easy to install and plenty of guides out there. I gave a brief description earlier in this post. Really simple. Can get them off eBay for cheap like me. Make sure you get the harness. Saves splicing a lot of wires. Mine is an apexi style which was £12 and the harness was about £14. So cheap as well.

You either need to use a resistor or remove the bulb. Not sure what resistor though. And make sure the boss has the connectors for the horn or it will be a bugger to Wire. Was my first car with airbag and is very similar just remember to disconnect the battery.

yeah that would be great Gambit. Shall I PM my email address?

Put ebay links up? Interested in some but not a batch

Did it in mine and very easy. Disconnect battery, then on either side of the steering wheel are a couple of fox bolts which should loosen to take off the airbag off. Loosen but dont take off the 17mm (or 19mm forget which) Central nut to stop wheel smacking you in the face., then with the nut still on pull the wheel lose, Then remove the nut and steering wheel Undo the electric connections and its off. Remember if you are using a after market steering wheel you need the right boss for the connections

Drove 250 miles down a motorway then 50 miles along some nice back roads. First time pushing the car and it is mega. And fairly civilized down the motorway.

I had similar issues which ended up being a spark plug, would rev perfectly without any load but then when accelerating hard it would hesitate and judder.

Hey mate, welcome to the S.O.C, that s a nice looking car there. Not had experience with a rwd switch system but imagine it would be normal as the diff has to make some changes, hopefully someone will be along soon to help.

Finally found someone else who likes it!!! Handles perfectly all the way into 3 digits.... And so much quieter at 60-70mph than with the wing

I've heard of some people not running well on some Dump valves but no experience of that myself. Make sure you get a hybrid though so some of the air is recirculated.

As stated before they are reliable in general but some of the owners aren't, they drive without warming up, don't mod properly, or don't service when required. This unfortunately lands big bills as it would with any car. I have had a similar issue with lack of care although not on such a large scale, The last owner wasn't ideal and everything he touched has gone wrong because he didn't service it properly or look after it properly. You have just got extremely unlucky by the sounds of it. Would a second hand engine be cheaper to just swap over? Although then you run the risk of not knowing the history I guess, but just a thought.

Mine are stripped, twisted and taped but will solder when I get a solder iron, should be ok but connectors would be better.

Only in Leeds/Bradford so not too far really, more than welcome to come and try it out. The picture shows the type it is so you should have a good idea of whether it will fit or not

HKS Turbo Timer (Type 0) It allows you to set a predetermined time that the car will run-on for after the key is removed from the ignition. This allows the turbo to cool down and the fans to run to dissipate the heat. Also, the oil fed through the turbo will cool off and prevent the oil from coking and seizing the turbo. HKS Turbo Timer (Type 1) In addition to the functions of the type 0 TT, type 1 adds two memories (for timer "on" time) and a 4-digit LCD display that can measure vehicle speed/peak speed, a speed warning, RPM (w/peak hold), RPM warning (for shift-light or red zone applications), interval/lap timer, as well as 60', 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile and 0-60 MPH time. Essentially the type 1 has more functions and costs more, I wanted one for the functions but couldn't justify spending £90+ more than I did on my apexi style one.

I have a standard recirc valve that I don't need anymore fits a classic model, not sure about compatabiltiy though.