Pommy

With rust its normally much too late to fix it when you can see it unfortunately. If it is just surface rust you might be lucky, you will have to take a wire brush to it to remove the rust and then re-paint. Otherwise cut out and re-weld in new metal is the best option and use a good quality paint. For rust proofing keeping a layer between the elements and the metal is key. Underneath I use hammermite which has to be re-applied every 2-3 years. But on the body work not sure on anything to stop it apart from paint. Only thing to I can think of is there is something on both sides affected by the mirrors but hopefully other Legacy owners will be along soon. Although I would look for anything that is creating a gap between the paintwork and the metal.

In traders corner i can't see any content apart from the form to sponsor the club, or any section called technical. Using IE Win 8

Hiya mate and welcome to the club, make sure you change the oil and service her regularly, twice a year or every 6,000 miles whichever is first. The cars tend to last a lng long time and become very addictive.

I do it as a hobby but don't get much time for it at the moment.

I believe it is under the steering column but not sure and don't know the colour, if you take the centre console out and look below and on the drivers side of the handbrake you will see a wire and contact, you can trace that back, mine seemed to go somewhere under the carpet so I just tapped into it there and then hid the wire to the turbo timer under the carpet up the side of the transmission tunnel.

I imagine they don't like the thought of the engine running with no key in and nobody with the vehicle

There are a few ways to do it, the cheap and easy way to do it is to strip a section of the insulation off the handbrake cable, remove some insulation from the end of the handbrake cable from the turbo timer. Wrap the end of the cable from the timer around the exposed handbrake cable and then used electrical tape to cover. Or you can solder the wires together at some point, essentially there needs to be a physical connection between the handbrake wire from the turbo timer and the actual handbrake wire. It is simple, I did it without any specialist tools or equipment just a Stanley knife, if your not confident you buy something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Posi-Tap-6pc-assortment-pack-wire-connector-607-6-10-22awg-/380871386000?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item58adb42390 but first I would watch this video on how to tap wires https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jtvi7bGenC4 essentially how I did it and works perfectly.

I do live in a hilly area so leave the handbrake on and in gear out of habit. Mine didn't work with just the earth wire.

You do have to tap it into the handbrake, the turbo timer won't come on if the handbrake isn't on. Or in theory you could put a piece of metal on top of the handbrake contact and trick it into thinking the handbrake is on all the time but the dash light is on, or you could find out what signal the hanbrake gives off and replicate it somehow. Although I would keep the handbrake on if not in car and the engine is on.

Yeah easy as can be assuming you have a harness like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HKS-Turbo-Timer-Harness-Loom-Wiring-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STi-Classic-GC8-1992-1997-/230818070464?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35bdd43fc0 assuming it has the same ignition set up as my classic, was just a plug below the steering column which you take out, plug into the Harness and plug the harness into the turbo timer., I then tapped into the handbrake cable near the handbrake itself and ran the cable under the carpet and have the box under the steering column and the display to the right of the steering wheel. Took about 45 minutes to install including taking everything apart and putting back together.

They're not actually necessary in a Subaru because they are air cooled, best just to run off boost for the last mile or so home. Having said that I think they are pretty cool and have one installed on my, cheap and real easy to install. Great to warm car up on cold morning with the doors locked and no key in. HKS get the best reviews with all the different functions it has. Still run off boost before getting to destination to let turbo cool.

I'm not sure about the fits between models, but I know visually that mine is a different size than the old one. Sorry I don't know more but this is one of the few jobs I got a garage to do, they said it was from a newage model, and I believe them. Sorry I'm not more help. Try what Stanton said, although it is a common problem with rust so a new one may be needed.

I believe BoozyDave is correct, no struts in sight which confused me. So I can just remove one of them? Should be easy enough. And I have to admit a lot of people not a big fan of it without spoiler but I like it, looks different to all the ones running around Bradford, and should confuse a fair few people when I hit the throttle.

Could also be an air leak after in the system, after the MAF, so the engine is getting a different amount of air than it thought it would. Happened to mine with exact same symptoms.

Much more restraint than me, I would just have pushed it!!!

Thanks Savage

The hose on the left of the three attached to the air intake pipe. What is it?

Different model year fuel filler pipes will fit, I have A 2008 on my classic I believe, although I don't know the changeability.

Should be easy enough, and I believe you can just get a harness to change from double din to din, did it in my own car.

Well I have taken the spoiler off now meaning the boot opens way too fast, is there a way to slow this down?

Stanton - Just trying to give the Audi's and BMW's something watch when they try to race me;) Gambit - Any chance you write a how to? Or the cost of the whole project?

Well yesterday on my 3 mile journey to work 3 BMW's decide to try and race me, all at different points in the journey, and all lost. And this was at 630am!!! Then today I have taken the rear spoiler off and am looking into installing a 7" tablet into the car.

Have to say its a bold colour choice but has turned out beautiful. Think it will work very well.

Coming along very nicely, have an intake on the way at the moment as it came at the right price, some mods will be needed, but have now taken off the spoiler. Think it looks a lot smoother. Have just duct taped the holes to keep the water out for now until I am 100% sure i want rid. And a mate of mine took a spoiler off an MR2 and found it incredibly scary and unstable above 50 so just want to make sure it all works before using some bondo!! (Sorry about the photo's only had my crappy phone to do it)

I'm sure I can find a way to modify it to fit. Or make a new bracket to make it fit.