Ash007ks

I can't see why not, pretty much all the scooby engines are interchangeable, why not get it forged ;)

Ill tidy the posts up once i have time, but just wanted to get a quick guide going. any tips or advice feel free, but keep it on topic.

Section 3. Polishing One thing i have learnt is use an ORBITAL buffer as the others damage the paint work, as they are too harsh and often leave burn swirls in the paint. This is for using a buffer. Before doing the whole car, I always recommend doing a test spot on the worst area of the car. Always start with the least aggressive product first and see if it is doing what you want it to do. If not, step up to a more aggressive product and pad. Then use your next products and procedures and complete the entire process to see if it meets your expectations. When you are finished with the test spot, and you are happy with the results, do the entire car! If not, it is time to go back to step one and re-evaluate your expectations and variables that come in to play. You also need to determine if there’s something you can change that will help you meet your expectations. Maybe an extra step or a simple change in your process can take you from, "it looks okay", to "Wow, that looks great!" It takes a little more time but think of it as a little insurance on your personal satisfaction. While polishing your car is fairly easy, there are a few tips and a little technique that will help you with your success. Work a small area at a time, only about 2 ft by 2 ft so you can concentrate on your work. Move SLOW! Most beginners move the polisher way to fast over the paint and they don't allow the polisher to get the work done. Use SLOW, overlapping motions. (Up and down then side to side) Keep your pad level. Beginners tend to look at the paint and forget what the pad is doing. Never dry buff! You need to work the polish so you get results but stop when the polish goes clear, before it dries. Keep the cord over your shoulder and away from your paint to avoid scratching your paint. ALWAYS use the correct pad, polish and speed combinations. When removing defects, use a little pressure. Not enough to bog down the machine, just enough so you can remove the defects. Never lift the polisher off the paint while it is turned on. Don't forget, polish does not protect. It only improves the look. When you are finished, you will need to protect your work with a protectant or wax .........Hand guide......... Start by ensuring you paintwork is clean and free of any contaminates. Prior to hand polishing we recommend that you decontaminate your paintwork. next grab your next item from your detailing products, a microfiber or foam applicator and your chosen car polish for your paintwork. Now dampen your applicator with a mist of water or detail spray, then add your car polish to the pad. Start with one or two pea sized dots of car polish to your pad. Now work the polish in straight lines working in small areas at a time, be sure to ensure even coverage by over lapping your strokes, and remove, repeat as you feel necessary or until the desired result has been achieved. Once you’ve worked the polish into your paintwork remove the hazed residue with a fresh microfiber cloths. Now you have created the finish you can seal it in and protect it by topping with your favourite Auto Finesse detailing products and car care car wax, luxury carnauba wax or paint sealant of your choice.

Section 2. Waxing. "What is clay?" After you've washed and dried your paintwork run your fingertips over the surface. It is likely that you will feel small imperfections. These are contaminants bonded to the paint that cannot be removed with washing alone. Typically these would be tree sap, remnants of bird lime, industrial fallout or even paint overspray. Clay is a fast and safe way to remove contaminants that have bonded to your paintwork which can't be shifted by washing alone. Meguiar's recommend that you tear about 1/3rd of the clay bar off and work it in your hands until soft. Mould the clay to a 5cm disc, spray the Quik Detailer onto clean, dry paintwork and glide the clay through the lubricant using finger tip pressure. It will remove all of the bonded contaminant, giving you a finish as smooth as glass A lot of people may feel intimidated by the thought of waxing their own vehicle; sometimes thinking the job needs to be left to auto detailers. However, you may not necessarily need an automotive detailer to do it for you. This is not a challenging job with a little bit of know-how and you can easily learn how to wax your vehicle and perhaps save a lot of money doing it yourself. Waxing a car helps to preserve the paint finish. Waxing your vehicle helps prevent damage from natural contaminates such as dirt and water. It also gives the paint on your car a deep, glossy, and clean sheen. Not sure if your car needs a good waxing? Often detailers recommend a car to be waxed every other month, every six months, and once a year. So what is the real answer? The best way to see if your car needs wax is to get the car wet. If the water does not bead on the surface of the paint, the car should be waxed. waxing your car, always wash your car first. No matter how clean the car appears to be, there could be particles of dust present that you don’t want to trap under the wax or worse, scratch the paint! If you need tips on how to thoroughly wash your car, please check here first. Apply automotive wax or paint sealer in a shady area. If wax or paint sealant dries too quickly or sits on the vehicle too long, it’s going to be tough to buff off. Always apply automotive wax or paint sealer to a dry vehicle. Droplets of water on the paint can cause the wax or sealant to streak and it will be unnecessarily tough to buff off. Apply the thinnest coat possible. If you are attempting to obtain a lot of depth and sheen, you will not be able to get that result if you try to use just one thick coat. It simply makes the wax or sealant tough to buff off and may cause streaking. Buff one coat off before applying a second extra thin coat. Check the label to see how long one coat needs to cure before applying another (usually 12-18 hours). Poly foam wax applicators are typically the most effective tool for applying a thin, even coat of wax or sealant. Poly foam wax applicators are durable, and best of all washable and reusable. They’re also cheap, therefore don’t be afraid to throw them away once they get very fouled. Using a quality microfiber towel, buff the wax haze away from the paint’s surface. A quality microfiber towel will buff the vehicle’s paint to a beautiful shine as it removes the wax residue. Microfiber’s woven fibers are static charged and grab the wax residue from the paint surface. Be sure to rotate the towel often to the clean side. You may need more than one towel to finish the car as the initial towels become dirty from the wax residue. One great tip for waxing a car is that if you have an uneven shine or streaks after removing the wax with a microfiber towel, you can spray the car’s painted surface with a quick detailing spray. After the quick detailing spray is wiped away with a microfiber towel, it should reveal a nice and even streak free shine.

Ok this is mostly not my own work, but what i have been using from a mixture of other sites, so ill not take the credit for it Fully :) obvs. I just thought it would be nice to get a few guides that would show the beginners/ novices different techniques to use. Now im by far no professional but these guides have helped :). sit back, grab and drink and read on. I will Split it into different sections. Washing, Waxing, Claying and so on so its not a massive wall of writing. feel free to add your own tips as well. Section 1. Washing. 1 Choose a shady spot, preferably away from trees that are dripping sap or dropping leaves. 2 Make sure all doors and windows are closed. 3 Put one capful of car soap into a bucket and fill it 3/4 of the way with warm water. Set the bucket aside. 4 Hose any excess dirt off the car, beginning at the roof and working down to the tires. 5 Lather a sponge or terry cloth rag in the bucket of soapy water and sponge the roof of the car. Spray off excess soap when the entire roof has been cleaned. 6 Repeat for all four sides of the car, washing one full side including windows, fenders and tires and rinsing completely before going to the next side. 7 Give the car one final rinse with the hose to get rid of any water spots when all four sides have been washed and rinsed. 8 Dry the car thoroughly by setting a towel flat against the surface of the car and drag it along the surface to pick up any water spots. Start at the roof and work your way down to the tires. 9 Wash the windows with a rag soaked in plain water and dry them with a dry rag, or use window cleaner and pieces of balled-up newspaper on both the inside and the outside of the windows. 10 Give any metal or chrome an extra rubdown to get rid of water spots. Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_1328_wash-car.html 1 Choose a shady spot, preferably away from trees that are dripping sap or dropping leaves. 2 Make sure all doors and windows are closed. 3 Put one capful of car soap into a bucket and fill it 3/4 of the way with warm water. Set the bucket aside. 4 Hose any excess dirt off the car, beginning at the roof and working down to the tires. 5 Lather a sponge or terry cloth rag in the bucket of soapy water and sponge the roof of the car. Spray off excess soap when the entire roof has been cleaned. 6 Repeat for all four sides of the car, washing one full side including windows, fenders and tires and rinsing completely before going to the next side. 7 Give the car one final rinse with the hose to get rid of any water spots when all four sides have been washed and rinsed. 8 Dry the car thoroughly by setting a towel flat against the surface of the car and drag it along the surface to pick up any water spots. Start at the roof and work your way down to the tires. 9 Wash the windows with a rag soaked in plain water and dry them with a dry rag, or use window cleaner and pieces of balled-up newspaper on both the inside and the outside of the windows. 10 Give any metal or chrome an extra rubdown to get rid of water spots. Read more : h You've spent plenty of money on the purchase of your car , now the question arises, “How do I take care of it?” Proper washing is one of the most overlooked and misunderstood areas of auto care, and sadly improper washing damages and dulls your vehicle's finish over time. If you take a moment to look at a group of cars under direct sunlight, be it in a parking lot or at a car show, you will most likely notice that many of the cars have light scratches all over them. These microscopic scratches seem to radiate outward in a “cob-web” effect from a central light source like the reflection of the sun. Many of the swirl marks are the result of improper washing and drying techniques. They are caused when grit is abraded against the paint's surface. There have been countless articles written on how to properly maintain a vehicle’s appearance and while most of the tips in this article certainly aren’t new, perhaps they may help you think about things in a different light. Vehicle enthusiasts range from those who wash or use a quick detailer on their vehicles daily, to those who love caring for their vehicle but only get the chance to wash them weekly or bi-weekly. Both categories of enthusiasts cringe at the very thought of taking their car or truck to car washes, otherwise known as “automatic swirl factories.” In this article we hope to give you some ideas and tips that will help you maintain your vehicle’s appearance and teach you ways to avoid, or at least minimize creating swirl marks. Car Wash Shampoo Car wash shampoos have come a long way since their introduction to the automotive detailing market. There was a time when we all just grabbed dish soap and went to work but those days are long gone. Dish soap is designed to eat away grease and food and while it works great for dishes we need to keep it in the kitchen! The same attributes that break down the grease on dishes will strip your car wax and dry out your plastic moldings and rubber seals. Some of the factors that establish a great car wash shampoo like BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond Conditioning Shampoo are foaming ability, lubricity, pH balance, concentration, gentleness and gloss enhancing ability. High quality car wash shampoos will clean a car’s surface, enhance the gloss and leave the car wax, paint protectant or paint sealant intact. Generic car wash shampoos that you could purchase in bulk at a clearance or discount store lack many of the attributes of the higher quality car wash shampoos. You will also find that a cheaper bottle of car wash shampoo is not necessarily a good value. Car Wash Mitts If you ask a group of car enthusiasts which company makes a better car or truck, you will get a variety of different answers; everyone has his or her opinion! To say that everyone has a favorite is an understatement, yet there are some basic fundamentals that make an item one of the best for its intended purpose. Wash mitts can be made of long or short nap microfiber, sponge material or sheepskin that can be either synthetic or genuine. The Sheepskin Wash Mitt is a great choice as it is soft, easily rinses clean, and holds lots of water and car wash solution. Natural Sea Sponges are composed of some of the softest material known to man and hold a large volume of water and soap solution. The Lake Country Foam Car Wash Sponge is made from super soft foam that is gentle to your paint and rinses clean easily. You want to avoid using shop rags, old t-shirts, and beach towels as the nap, or thickness of these items is so small that you can easily exert too much force onto the paint and inadvertently push surface dirt around instilling washing swirls. Also, these wash rags do not release trapped dirt as easily. The thicker wash mitts designed specifically for use on vehicles offer room for dirt to be pulled away from your paint until your mitt is rinsed. Car Wash Buckets When choosing a bucket you generally have two choices, 5 gallon or 3.5 gallon. Usually the 3.5 gallon is too small to get the job done with plenty of fresh car wash solution, but with water weighing 8.35 pounds per gallon it is difficult to lug the 5 gallon bucket around your car. When it comes to swirl free washing, one of the greatest ideas to come along is the two bucket method of car washing. As the name implies, you use two separate buckets to wash your car. One bucket holds the soapy car wash solution and the other holds clean, clear rinse water so you can rinse your mitt after each pass over your car. This keeps those dirt particles you just picked up on the surface from going back into the clean car wash solution and being picked up again by the wash mitt. This brings us to the next topic: Grit Guard Inserts. If you aren’t using them, you should be! The Grit Guard Insert is a round plastic insert grate that sits on the bottom of your bucket. It is raised above the bottom of the bucket by four lateral fins. Dirt from your wash mitt drops to the bottom of the bucket and is kept at the bottom of the bucket, ensuring that your wash mitt doesn’t pick up the dirt you just washed off of the car. When you finish washing your car and lift the Grit Guard Insert up, you will see how well it works. The Grit Guard Insert should be used in both the wash and rinse buckets for optimum protection against instilling swirl marks. The Grit Guard Insert comes with the handy Grit Guard Dual Bucket Washing System and the BLACKFIRE 5 Gallon Wash Bucket System With Dolly. Hose Nozzles Yes, even your hose nozzle is an important part of your car wash procedure. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to wash your car with an inadequate or leaky hose nozzle. Optional Foam Guns and Foam Cannons Dirt and grit as most abrasive when it is lying in a fine dust layer over your paint. Even when pre-rinsing your car with water, some of the grit can scratch. Both the BLACKFIRE Foam Gun and the BLACKFIRE Foam Cannon allow you to lather your car in a blanket of clingy suds that encapsulate the grime and reduce the risk of scratching. The BLACKFIRE Foam Gun attaches to your hose with a special trigger nozzle. The BLACKFIRE Foam Cannon attaches to a pressure washer. Mix in your favorite car soap or use a specially blended car soap such as Detailer's Pro Series Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo and spray it on. Allow the soap to dwell for several minutes then rinse off. If your paint only has a light coating of dust or road pitch you can often use the BLACKFIRE Foam Gun or BLACKFIRE Foam Cannon as a substitute for a standard washing. Simply layer your car in a blanket of foam and lightly wipe with your favorite wash mitt, rinsing the mitt frequently in a rinse bucket. After the vehicle has been wiped down, thoroughly hose it off. Drying Towels Two of the most popular options for drying your vehicle are waffle weave microfiber towels and synthetic PVA towels. The PVA synthetic chamois are the small rubbery towels used by divers and swimmers at the Olympics. They are generally smaller and rubber-like in feel. They hold a large amount of water, wring out easily, and last a very long time. The drawback is that they are not quite as soft and gentle as microfiber drying towels. Microfiber waffle weave drying towels like the Cobra Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towel are very soft, safe and effective. The waffle weave fibers act like little pockets and absorb tons of water and when used properly are extremely gentle on your vehicle’s delicate surfaces. It generally takes only two towels to dry vehicle to ensure a spot and streak free finish. The first towel picks up the majority of water and the second towel picks up any residual moisture ensuring a streak free finish. Another benefit to the Cobra Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towel is that they can be washed with other microfiber detailing towels ensuring that they are clean and fresh each time you need them, with no chance of dirt from the last use scratching the surface. Keep in mind that just like other products, there is a difference in quality when it comes to microfiber drying towels, they are not all the same so be sure to use only high quality towels like the Sonus Der Wunder Microfiber Drying Towels or Cobra Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towels, available in three sizes. Now that you are familiar with the proper tools for the job, we will cover the proper technique necessary for washing a vehicle without instilling wash-induced swirls in the paint. Always wash your car in the shade! This will keep your car wash shampoo solution from drying on the car before it is rinsed off. If at all possible, it is best to wash your car on a relatively calm day as even a slight breeze can put particles of dirt into the air. These dust particles are attracted to the wash/rinse water on your vehicle and act like sandpaper when rubbed between the drying towel and vehicle surface. The breeze will also cause some drying and this can lead to streaks and water spots. Use two buckets with a Grit Guard Insert in each bucket. One is for your shampoo solution and the other is clean rinse water for your wash mitt. Only use high quality car shampoos and wash mitts. Fill a 5-gallon bucket 2/3 full with cool water. Add the proper amount of shampoo to the water as recommended on the label instructions. Using a strong jet of water, fill the bucket to fully activate suds. Fill the second bucket with clean, water for rinsing your wash mitt. Thoroughly rinse the vehicle’s surface to remove the loose dirt and grime before you begin the car wash procedure. If the paint is excessively dirty or you wish to add more protection, use a foam cannon to pre-soak the vehicle prior to rinsing. When washing your vehicle remember to always go from top to bottom, never the opposite. Generally the dirtiest parts of your vehicle are those parts closest to the ground. Wheel wells, rocker panels and bumpers tend to have the largest accumulation of grime and you don’t want to bring that junk back onto the paint surface and risk scratching it. Load up your wash mitt with your car wash solution and wring it out over the wash surface. This acts like a pre-soak and helps loosen surface gunk. It also adds more sudsy water to the surface and more lubricity helps safely wash the grime away without scratching. Keep your wash areas small and rinse your wash mitt frequently in the second bucket. Wash in straight, overlapping lines as opposed to circles and remember to be gentle with the wash mitt on the first pass. This first pass will pick up the majority of the dirt, and loosens the remaining dirt for pick up on the second pass. Rinse your vehicle by opening up your Fire Hose Nozzle to the open flow setting or, if you don’t have an open flow option on your nozzle, remove your nozzle completely and let the water run or sheet over the surface. This helps in two ways. First, generally when water has “sheeted” off of a surface it tends to leave fewer residual droplets behind. This means less drying time. Second, since there is less water to pick up, there is less chance of your leaving water behind to spot the vehicle. When you dry your car, use only high quality microfiber waffle weave drying towels and wring out often. Gently dry the surface without much pressure. You don’t need to rub the surface – you’re just picking up the bulk of the water! Once you have picked up the bulk of the water, and the first towel is saturated, use the second towel to lightly pick up any remaining streaks or droplets. Lastly, if your wax or sealant is still in good shape, go over the vehicle with a quick detail spray like Sonus Acrylic Spritz Detail Spray or BLACKFIRE Midnight Sun Instant Detail Spray and a plush Cobra Deluxe Jr. Microfiber Buffing Towel to restore a radiance and slickness to the paint. This last step will give your vehicle that just-detailed look by enhancing gloss and will also remove any missed drips, water spots or streaks that showed up when you weren't looking. Ignore the Products, and the silly American measuring system, Ok hope it gave you a good insight and srry for teaching you too suck eggs. on to Section 2.

http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2196-subaru-newbie-turbo-2000/page-4#entry50129 All finished. From this. to this

SSS (Sheffield Subaru Services) Address Unit 36 Century Street Sheffield S9 5DX Meeting Time and date 2ND Monday Every Month 7.00PM/1900hrs Meeting Rules 1. No idiotic driving on the roads surrounding the Meeting. 2. No leaving litter. 3. Do not partake in any other idiotic behaviour. 4. Have fun and meet fellow Subaru owners. Spread the Word, Couple of new faces last time but it would be nice if we could get a big turnout from Subaru Owners forum. Guess What i will actually be there in a Subaru this time, can you believe it. :):)

Ah man gutted i didnt make sign up , might see you there.

Yeah need to put on a few miles but it will only get used at the weekends now, as driving it 3 miles to work and 3 miles back , i reckon it wont do it much good. Still a few bits and bobs to get/ upgrade, a massive under sight was brakes so that is the next priority for now im keeping the same caliper set up but going 295mm discs. If anyone wants to know the Specs or requires pointing in the direction ive picked up a bit of knowledge researching the right bits. All i will say savage is i cant wait for remap, the torque the engine put out at the minute is tremendous. it just wants to pull in all gears.

will be different fuels and turbos used, the japanese have alot higher octane than the ones we use.

mines off, was same on the bug eye, but unless your going to go silly power keep it and just get it regassed, you will only kick yourself in the warmer months.

have you checked for any air locks in the coolant.

So now is the long and winded right up haha. For those that dont like to read alot feel free just to look at the pictures. So Tuesday the engine was all fully rebuilt after waiting on the inlet silicone hose, this was due to my old one deciding to split, as such this ment that it was pretty much pointless putting the engine in the car and the inlet hoses are a ball ache of a job at the best of time, Its the big blue hose under the Red inlet incase your wondering. Once this was in place it was decided that while the engine was out that we put in some NGK Platinum's, after that the new turbo was bolted up. The whole car has had new Subaru Gaskets and a 1MM Steel Head gasket put on. Once the Turbo was all bolted up it was time to bolt the new Exedy Clutch and skimmed flywheel to the engine ready for fitment to the car, and then the big moment of truth, after some jiggling she finally sat right in the engine bay. All the Ancillaries where hooked up and it was decided that till remap day the old Turbo 2000 Intercooler would suffice. Oil pressure and Temp senders where plugged back in and then it was time. The moment i had waited 7 months for...... the first fire up. The fuel pump fuse was taken out and the car was primed, this is to allow the oil to get around the whole car and into the turbo, stops it burning out on fire up. No running oil has been used however we are bedding the car in on 10w 40 semi, this will be changed at intervals of around 100,500,1000. At a 1000 that is when i'm moving up to millers Fully syn 10w 50. The fuses where put back into the car and it was turned over, took a while for it to fire up due to the compression that the engine now runs. But it sounded sweet, not as loud as i was expecting at all. wednesday. Then disaster, we could see a small water/coolant leak coming from the right hand side , car was lifted and a small coolant elbow was suspected, a replacement was found and it was swapped over. as such it had stopped, a quick test ride around the block ( i say quick but i cant go above 2.5k) and it drove mint, was idling in martins garage while we was checking pressures and temps etc, an error code had popped up, during the build we realized the engineers had damaged my Knock sensor, however it was still in one piece, it appeared the knock sensor was faulty, as every so often it chucks up the code when going over a bump in the road. (new one has been ordered). the coolant still appeared to be leaking from the same spot and as such it was decided the car wasnt safe to bring home. Thursday New Scooby Worx Fuel pump fitted, Make sure you clip them in right or you will be scratching your head as to why it will only fire occasionally :) like i was haha. the car was lifted in the air again and we could see the water was now running down the sump (Suspect water pump) Shock the only thing that we didnt replace as it looked fine as well. cambelt was removed and the water pump as well, there is a tiny seal near the impellor, Very rare that it goes but this time it had totally perished and was just !Removed! water out. A new one was ordered and Martin did a cambelt time up and Water pump swap in under an hour man on a mission :) again car was fired up and Thankfully the leak had gone :) Friday Car was double checked and showed no signs of leaking so i was given the green light, My wallet was made lighter and it was off to the petrol station, I couldnt go above 2.5k rpms as i needed to bed the engine in and any higher would cause the turbo to spool which would make the car run lean (very Bad) as such i decided to go out to derby shire to do the country lanes and roads as these have minimal traffic and have up hill and down hill sections which would allow me to utilize engine breaking, this beds the rings in better and gives a better performing engine further down the line. booked it in for Monday for the oil change so i had to do a minimum of 100 miles in 3 days :) Challenge accepted. I ended up just driving for ages really going through castleton and loads of other out of the way villages, until i came to Buxton this is where i decided id gone far enough out and as such decided to come back on some A roads and then to park up and get some pictures at Ringinglow. 180 miles on it so far and it has used no oil at all ) Pressure are a steady 3 bar at idle and 85c for oil while driving. i did have a scare as the oil temp ended up at over a 110 but found my sensor wire had crept onto the turbo and was burning through :) DOH. I shall keep you all updated :) thanks for looking.

Before the clean :) After the clean.

Its that time again lol. More progress. Details on the second part.

+1 he will be fitting my ecu soon :)

Fully Sold.

Sold.

Some cars can run lean once fitting however mine didnt due to fitting a decat so kinda balanced itself out. Get decat, Airfilter, and not sure if its the same but silicone Y pipe on top mount as original fold under certain boost, also for piece of mind get a uprated fuel pump :) Jobs good and should expect about 270+

You must get the remap done once its bed it as the compressions will have changed, i would suggest you do that ASAP or risk kissing thos pistons goodbye. Ive got to run it in for 1k miles and then immediately take it for a remap as it will be running lean once the actuator is reconnected.

Ordered silicone Inlet. New Silicone Y piece, Stripped Inlet back off ready for fitting and ordered a new Rad hose. As soon as these are here its go time. Also paid martin some cash :s

+1 on JGM or Race Dynamix

send me a pm on a price you would take.

I love buying car stuff, just hate paying for it.

Check to make sure it has diesel in the tank ..... Or im pretty sure the boxer diesels are bullet proof, but make sure things like regular service history is there, clean oil, no knocks or funky smells coming from the engine. no smoke off boost unless its had a remap. Welcome :)