savage bulldogs

I agree with tidgy on the tdo4 and fmic combo being Laggy/overkill . Tdo4's will generally max out at 270 to 290 and even a early classic "slanty" tmic and grey 380's would be ample at that level of power . What year is your scoob and what target power are you after ? As this will help us know what's worth changing to get what you want from the car . If you're just after sub 300hp with better driveabilty decat downpipe, fuel pump and panel filter will be all you'll need prior to the remap . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I used New studs and genuine gaskets on the 4 up pipes I've fitted and not had 1 leak yet [emoji6] Tighten the up pipe to head support bracket last If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

+1 for a Genuine pink box exedy for sub 380 hp If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Classics don't have a pre cat in the up pipe only the newage , so if your foz hasn't got 1 I'd say get 1 without a pre cat . As although it will "mechanically" fit it would be more restrictive with the pre cat in and need to be remapped. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Only guess I had I'm afraid, cos I'm not bad with a spanner but sparky work isn't my bag bud . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Are you sure its definitely a fault with the sensor and not just the sensor reading? if it's over or under fuelling could it just be flagging up a o2 sensor code maybe? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah my old UK used to be a bit of a "!Removed!" when cold and the chairman of scooby city owns a v3 uk turbo with over 200k running 320hp as a daily driver. So it's not a major issue and not necessarily just a v3/v4 problem as other versions do suffer too . Hell my forged cdb sounds like Peter pans crocodile till it's warm [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's still only a ty 52 (weaker early classic box) You'd need a ty54 late v5/v6 classic at least , preferably bugeye onwards 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Mattyb @ br performance normally has them in stock [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bug onwards 5 speed boxes have stronger casings and tend to handle high 300's maybe just over 400bhp (if treated with mechanical sympathy ) You'd have to Google your existing 5 speed box ty number (to find the ratio) and buy a later 5 speed of the same ratio. You'd just need the box (about £400) as shafts, props , fly ,clutch ect are all compatible with the classic set up 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Here's the link . http://lm.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fscs.org.uk%2Fnews%2F2016%2Fjuly%2Fenterprise-insurance-company-plc-now-in-default%2F&h=pAQGeKyVN&enc=AZN2EVVj68xGo02a841S88YLdxvujfqiK158Y5TW-cmVCBjP3OyWCl99M5WsXoCnQOk&s=1 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'll post a link in a sec , a mate noticed it on a retro car forum.

Just had a look at pic 5 and sorry I've never seen 1 on a manual impreza classic before . The igniter creates a high amp spark that is sent to the individual coilpacks on top of each spark plug on the early classics. Hence why the newage single coil packs are better as they create the high amp signal directly on top of the plugs , so no power is lost while the current is passing through the engine loom (like on the early classic set up ) . That's also why I assumed that the v3 onwards didn't have a igniter, as I'd thought the high amp spark was created by the single coilpack on the inlet and flows through the ht leads. I could well be wrong though as it definitely that looks like a igniter (flat sensor just under the boost solinoid) . I'll have a squint through my scooby scraps boxes and see what sensors I've got once I'm back home and settled . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Apparently it's not just flux that use them it's loads of brokers that buy modified , specialist car and home insurance policies on our behalf . Hopefully I'm not affected but I won't know until I get back to blighty and check my paperwork. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The flexi perishes due to exessive heat in the up pipe and the shape /size messes with gas flow affecting spool 😉 P.s none of the oe subaru exhaust system has a flexi in it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just saw this on another forum that mindas underwriters had gone bust . Apparently flux uses them (among other brokers) so it's worth checking through your paperwork or with your insurance brokers if it affects you. If your with flux and mindas they said they'll be in touch if your affected but unfortunately I'm not in blighty atm so can't check if it affects me personally. So just a heads up for everyone else [emoji6]

The standard v1 to v6 impreza up pipe is the same and any of those will fit your foz . If you decide to go aftermarket stay away from up pipes with "flexi's" or bigger bores like japspeed or toyo sports as these will loose you spool and hp . As performance sell "trick " up pipes which increase spool and the likes of haywood & Scott sell slip jointed ones that stop the gaskets blowing (both will need mapping in to get the benefits ) Whichever direction you go make sure you buy new oe gaskets, studs and nuts from the likes of import car parts as the ebay cheap ones don't last [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I think V3/v4 imprezas do tend to suffer from piston slap a bit more than most other versions and I'd read somewhere that it was due to subaru changing the piston material . Dunno how much truth is in that though but my old v3 uk was quite "slappy" when cold and when I stripped it down I just assumed it was due to being a open deck ? I think a google of the model and trim code would give the most accurate discription . As I've only ever stripped 2 engines , my current v1 jdm sti and the previous v3 uk . On the whole there's not a great deal of difference between the v1 to v4 long block ( crank thrust position and inlet manifold stud patterns are the same ) so they're interchangeable if you use the inlet, fuel rails and auxiliaries off the car your fitting the engine to. The sti versions from v1 onwards have forged pistons , more agressive cams and mls headgaskets . Which handle and make more power when remapped than the UK or wrx spec internals. I think the foz has different profile cams compared to the impreza classic of the same version to make better low down torque. There's a few pics of the v1jdm and v3 uk engines on my sticky build thread on here that might help you a bit but otherwise a good googling might be the only way to find what the exact spec is of your foz lump. [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

All turbo versions have a map and maf sensor ,it's the na that don't have a maf Afaik. The v1& v2 impreza map sensor maxes out at 1.2 bar so needs to be upgraded to the v3 onwards map sensor if you want to run more boost when getting a remap . The sensor attached to the vac line off your map sensor is indeed a air density sensor . Unsure if the v3/v4 ,with coil pack in the middle of the inlet, has a igniter although it does look like 1 in that pic behind the boost solinoid bracket. I just assumed they didn't use a igniter from v3 onwards due to only having the 1 coilpack and not having the individual coilpacks on the spark plugs. Also When fitting a newage coil pack conversion (to increase spark power on the weaker early classics ) you by pass the igniter .so i assume newage don't have a igniter either ? That's only a guess though as unfortunately, I haven't got a v3 anymore to double check for you . I've got a few spare pre v5 sensors at home dunno how close to Suffolk you are ? But if your close enough, your welcome to try swapping a few over ,re setting the ecu and taking it for a spin to see if the codes come back [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ask Andy Stevens to put a base map on the board that suits your car / mods . Unless you can map it yourself otherwise I'm not sure if it will run ( let alone not go bang ) esl did do a few mapping courses a while back but I dunno if they're doing any more If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

There's not many wires attached to the manual gearbox on my classic, check the black and white plugs under the tmic for corrosion on the pins and breaks in the insulation [emoji6] P.s coilpack in the middle means it's based on a v3 /v4 phase 1.5 impreza [emoji106]

After spending £6k and waiting 9 months I'd definitely be chasing them to give me my money back or at least getting them to fund another refresh done by someone else. I built my own forged engine for just under 1.8 k in parts/machining costs, so a refresh with maybe a 14mm headstud conversion (to re drill and tap the head bolts in your existing block) shouldn't cost much more than 2k imo . Hope you get it resolved soon bud If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you want a straight swap tmic you need to look for 1 off the same "version" as there's 3 different shapes fitted to classics and 1 upgraded sti versions for each shape [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Rear arches seem to differ quite a bit price wise £150 to £500 per side ,As they normally rust from the inside out .It depends on how bad the inner arches are and whether you have a proppa job done (metal cut out/replaced) or just ground back and filled . There's a link on the first few pages of my sticky build thread on here which has a link to "ken gilbert" which has a few pdf downloads of scooby manuals [emoji6] If it's modified I'd try Adrian flux or Keith Michael but phone them rather than just getting a quote online, as you get all your mods covered and a much better deal [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome , nice looking classic [emoji106] Any mods or future plans for it ?