savage bulldogs

The cat back end is flat flanged and it's got 2 temp bungs . 1 at the top near the turbo outlet for the v3 onwards o2 sensor and 1 at the bottom for a egt sensor (if you've got 1) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah it's a standard length downpipe that has the standard 2.5 " conical fire ring gasket fitment and separate off take for the internal wastegate . I'll dig out a pic a bit later, bud If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I wasn't 100% sure what the z4 or the op scooby's model was so thought I'd mention too google em first . I'd probably be tempted to try a z4 if they matched but then that would be on my own car and if it went bang it would be my problem. I never advise anyone else to take a chance on unmapped mods . As 20 yr old performance engines sometimes go bang on the standard map if 1 of the previous owners has mistreated it at some point in its life . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I think the z4 runs yellow 440 injectors and a tdo5 16g. your 94 runs grey 380's so give both the z4 and your scoob a google first to make sure you have the same turbo and injectors first. As it will over fuel or over boost if they're not the same [emoji6] I've never taken the chance with a ecu lottery and always waited until I'm ready to remap before changing anything . It can get very expensive cutting corners on mapping if it goes kaboom If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've never had to buy 1 before but I normally buy my oe bits from "import car parts" . You could always see if the part numbers are the same on their website. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Crank sensor is directly above the crank pulley under the alternator... bottom left in this pic They can get a bit corroded and be a pita to get out so give it a spray with plus gas or wd40 and try not to crack anything . It's also possible that if the engine has detected exessive knock, misfire or a fueling issue the ecu might reduce the timing enough to think the crank sensor is faulty. If it's a unmapped jdm you should only use 99 ron fuel in the UK as the classic jdms are mapped for the higher octane fuel over there . If you've been using lower octane it normally takes a tank full of the good stuff to get back to normal. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I used a bit of emery cloth ,rinsed em through with petrol and then again with brake cleaner . Make sure before you paint em , put a bit of tape or blue tack over the union face where the brake line copper washer has to seal . If it gets painted the brake fluid will eventually eat through the paint causing a leak behind the copper washer [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

V3 and v4 work of a abs ring which is bolted to the hub (with "star drive or torque headed bolts) . They're prone to cracking when removing to do a wheel bearing ect (mine fell apart on the bearing press ) . I had the hub off already, so can't remember if the hub has to be removed first but unfortunately I do remember they're not cheap new (£65 ish) . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I haven't got any personal experience with 2.5 or newage mapping software and I personally leave my mapping to Clive attowe at Norwich. I assume that you've upgraded the fuel pump but what about the boost solenoid or is the standard hawk set up a 3 port anyway ? As a 3 port does give the mapper better control over the boost when mapping. What up pipe are you running and have you looked into a "Harvey trick " up pipe from AS performance ? As this might aid spool a bit . I wouldn't have thought a fmic would cause 600 rpm of lag in 3rd or 4th gear, especially on a 2.5 ltr engine (it didn't on my 2ltr) Have you tried to email any other mappers regarding the spec and functions of the newage ecu software options and capabilities. Either way I bet the cars no slouch with those figures anyway and best of luck getting the most out of what you've got If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Took the scoob out to price a job up and chose the long way home for the love of boost n burble [emoji4] Came across st and a 330 beemer having a "play " on the carriage way. All 3 of us ended up side by side at set of traffic lights . As I changed out of 3rd and glanced in the rear view mirror the 2 specs in the distance seemed to be evenly matched . So I just skipped 4th n 5th, dumped it in 6th and kept to the speed limit . only to see them fly by a few seconds later both giving me a wry grin and a thumbs up as they passed [emoji106] . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I used the godspeed stainless steel piston kit on mine and couldn't fault it for fitment. The main reason for fitting ss pistons is so they don't rust and therefore won't seize . If you keep the brakes clean and well greased I can't see why mild steel ones wouldn't last 8 to 10 years before needing another refurb though . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Not without a fair bit of modification as the turbo exhaust manifold, upipe and downpipe takes a different route compared to the na versions. Have a search on here as there's a thread "somewhere" on here that has pics of the header differences. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice work [emoji41] Are you using the stainless steel piston upgrade for the rebuild or the standard steel ones ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As Matt said it's the unequal length Headers that cause the scooby burble . There are a few companies that make unequal headers for na scoobs but they're fairly expensive, so you'd probably be better off looking for a second hand set . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Graham goode has a fairly good rep for tuning parts but I haven't seen any feedback (either good or bad) on their fuel pumps. I run now run a rcm pump which seems to be a great bit of kit . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Classic jdms don't have the "stone chip guards " only the uk versions but I don't know if newage are the same . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Any changes in fuelling or timing usually take a full tank for the ecu to learn , so it might get better once run for a bit . Failing that you could Get it insured and on a dyno to find out exactly what's going on . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got a walbro too lol But I wouldn't have thought that a faulty pump would be under too much strain when stationery. I'd imagine that you'd notice that more when the pumps feeding the extra fuel needed when on boost If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Shame your not closer as I've got a working v3/ v4 coilpack, full set of ht leads ,tps and icv you could've tried to see if it's a "sparking" issue . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Did you remove or adjust the icv or tps position screws when working on the scoob ? Are both the icv and tps the original ones off the car ? As any minor adjustment can throw out the throttle position or idle behaviour. It might sort itself out once it's had a decent run and burned some of the stop start carbon build up off . As for that earth I dunno where that's supposed to go as both of my scoobs have had that earth but neither of them had anything connected to the other end either lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I haven't had a vehicle speed reading to the apexi ecu since I've owned the v1sti and the main reason I fitted the apexi avcr was for the " gear judge function " . Which equals the boost in each gear when the engines under different loads in different gears . Even though I'd checked everything was connected up correctly I still didn't have a electrical vehicle speed reading to either the ecu or avcr .[emoji15] After numerous attempts at trying to find the fault by having the clocks out and doing a test from ecu pins to dash plugs. someone suggested that I should try fitting another set of clocks. Luckily I have a spare set so put them in and booya I have a signal [emoji41] Unfortunately just not a very reliable one , as this 1st gear pull shows . As I don't think my scoob is capable of hitting 14,352 kmph in 6th let alone 1 st [emoji23] After a couple of days I decided to have a look at the back of the original clocks to see if I could spot the fault and maybe make a good set out of the pair . I spotted this . A screw missing from what looked like a terminal on the circuit board near the back of the mechanical speedo drive [emoji15] So I whipped the (sort of ) working clocks out and they had a screw in that location. So I took the screw out of the working clocks and fitted it into the original clocks. ....... Works spot on now [emoji4] So I've just gotta set the gear judge function up and hopefully I should hit my full boost target in the lower gears and not get any overboost in the higher gears [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

What about offering up a set of single scroll headers to see if they look like they'll clear the twinscroll sump ? If nothing else , It might give you a idea of the differences If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Gutted I can't make this but hopefully I'll make the finale in November, if soc are going If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah sod the 1/4 mile runs, I get better results on my driveway [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Put another set of clocks in the scoob this afternoon to try to get a speed reading to the avcr and it works ...... Well sort of ......... Cos I'm fairly sure I didn't hit 706 kph on the drive by using 8.2% of the throttle [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊