savage bulldogs

If the standard grey 380's are in situ they're good for 290hp max . The cheapest option is to buy some phase 2 yellow 440's (about £40) then fit them into your v1 phase 1 fuel rails with "phase adapters" (about £40 including new O rings ) . 440's can hit 350hp on standard fuel pressure with supporting mods .which is classic impreza gearbox braking power ,so unless you are upgrading the drive train, they'll be ample for most classics . I personally run (nissan) nismo 555cc injectors with phase adapters in my phase 1 rails . Which should be good for just over 400hp . They just need a tab filing off the plug to plug n play on classics. Which ever route you take ,Just thought I'd mention that you can't just change injector sizes without remapping. As the fuelling map will open the injectors for the same length of time but the increase in size of injectors will mean that more fuel will enter the chamber. Meaning it will over fuel and cause bore wash (strip the oil off the bore walls) if not mapped shortly afterwards. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice collection of olds cool scoobies[emoji41] I'd have probably been interested in a brat project, if I had the space to put it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You shouldn't get any residue from a air filter (it's supposed to filter particles not create em ) .maybe try giving it a clean with some electrical contact cleaner ,wait for it to dry and then refit it . The filter could be causing all the symptoms . If it's clogged it could be restricting airflow enough to affect the mixture. Which in turn might cause the starting, idle and holding back symptoms. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Try mark agin @ lateral performance, alyn @ Asperformance or Chris @ cdf . They normally cost about £40 but they normally come with new injector seals included If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud [emoji106] Afaik The v3 to v6 map sensor just plugs in but it has to be calibrated by the mapper in order for it to work (5 mins to fit and best done on the day after the esl'd ecu's been fitted ) Yours will have a phase 1, side feed fuel set up ,so phase 1 yellow 440's will drop straight in but these are getting thin on the ground now days . The other option is phase 2 yellow 440's these are found in all v5/v6 imprezas and will fit into your rails with "phase adapters" . Both sets of yellows have the same plugs (so there's no wiring mods needed) but once fitted the car will be running very rich due to the bigger injector capacity pushing more fuel in . So if you do have to drive it to Andy bear this in mind and keep it under 3k and off boost . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah the standard cat is quite restrictive so once decatted the turbo can spool much easier. Coupled with a induction cone it can make the ecu struggle a bit to keep the boost and fuelling in check with all that extra air flowing freely. I think the z4 runs 0.8 bar standard max so your probably getting fuel cut due to it wanting to make more boost (due to the mods) .Then either the oe map fuel n boost parameters being exceeded or it nearly maxing out the early map sensor 1.2 bar limit and it "cutting" to protect itself . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Any v1 (92) to v2 (early 96) ecu will fit into your loom harness but i wouldn't just fit a second hand esl'd ecu as the map could be way off what suits your engine . The wrx z4 ecu punches out 260 hp as standard and classic ecu's do seem to "learn" better than newage ecu's . I've personally never added a decat or changed from standard air box to cone filter without mapping shortly after . As a free flowing decat and cone will allow a lot more air in and out of the engine than the original fuel map is set for . If you want to break the 300hp barrier I'd also look at getting some yellow 440cc injectors, as the current grey 380's max at 290 hp ish . Then a v3 onwards map sensor as well ,Cos the v1 /v2 map sensor maxes out at 1.2 bar . Both the later map sensor and yellow injectors should cost under a £100 in total but should gain you a extra 40 hp ish once fitted and mapped [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Only reason I mentioned it is cos it would be nice to know why it's happened (so you can avoid it happening again) . It would be good hear it's just popped the head gasket and lost compression but they normally only burn oil when rings or turbos fail . So to have the combination of oily smoke and lack of compression means it probably rings . Best of luck and let us know what you find when stripping it down [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome , there's plenty of colours and opinions, so have a look on Google images to get a idea of what you like . I went for polar black on my silver classic ,which is gloss black with green, gold ,silver and blue metallic fleck . The rota rims were originally anthracite (grey ish ) and didn't "shine" enough ,so they were lost in the arches If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Did you check the deck face of the block for trueness and the piston to deck height before putting the new heads on ? As both of those measurements need to be taken into account when calculating your new head gasket thickness ,especially if you intend to use different version heads on different version bottom ends . Any of those variations could cause a uneven compression ratio and cause the head gasket to fail but scoobs normally push combustion gasses into the coolant when the headgaskets fail (not burn oil) . So I'd check the bores for wear (especially ovality and taper) if everything "looks" ok when you whip the heads off . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You've changed [emoji53] ...... ever since you got that mitsi for the Mrs . Next thing you know your be telling us your selling the wagon[emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Don't get me wrong I'm not "scoopist" and wave at any scooby driver but the old boy farmers in their out backs don't often wave back [emoji16] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you're fitting them yourself I took a few pic's and gave a few pointers when fitting mine on my sticky build thread. It's on the last last 2 pages (I think) Mines a classic but they're fairly similar [emoji6] I'd recommend getting some adjustable rear camber bolts too unless the coilovers you bought have adjustable rear top mounts . As lowering a car throws out the camber and there's no way to correct the camber with the oe rear bolts .Elbaich ones are only about £25 and yes I'd definitely get a 4 wheel alignment done afterwards , fella If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Welcome to the world of boost n burble David [emoji6] I dare say you'll get a few more waves off other scooby drivers now you have a scoop on the bonnet [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah he certainly knows his stuff . His 6 cylinder h6 twin turbo time attack classic makes over 1k hp and he also owns a uk 22b [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's down on compression I'd say valves or compression rings . either way it's at least a engine out and heads off job .so just in gaskets ,Machining costs and a timing belt kit you won't get much change from £500 . Unfortunately that's without any labour costs and statistically it's more likely to be rings . Which means a full rebuild and a £1.5k + price tag . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah passenger footwell and you won't go far wrong with Andy forrest 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Wrx ra or sti ra ? Early or late as the early classic sti ra's seem to be fetching good money atm If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'd say back to standard ,as i think most people like to buy a standard 'ish scoob and put their own stamp on it . Also if you do buy another classic later in the year , you'll have a shed load of bits to kick start the modding [emoji6] Whichever route you take I'm sure you won't be able to resist getting another scoob for long [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The light grey injector plugs on each bank go to the front (cylinders 1 & 2) . The dark grey plugs go to the rear (cylinders 3 & 4 ) . I can only find 1 pic of my v3 uk engine showing the passenger side and it only shows cylinder ,which has a light grey plug with yellow n green wires . Are the ht leads plugged in the right order ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Make sure that they know it's a import ,bud . Cos on the classics imports have black tint and uk versions have green tint [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The mishimoto compact baffled catch can turned up today looks like a good bit of kit It's certainly compact so I don't think I'll be stuck for places to mount it [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Phil I'm in Ipswich ,fella [emoji6] Kayzar If I do move house it will definitely be to a place with enough land to build a big workshop [emoji41] might eventually set up savage scoobies but plastering pays the bills best atm so i would only be a part time tuner at best [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

@David Cough coilovers cough [emoji48] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I did think about starting up a garage again but I dunno if I'd enjoy modding so much if I did it every day. I much prefer making something rather than fitting stuff outta a boxes anyways [emoji6] . Helping with s keyboard is no trouble and I don't even have to get my hands dirty [emoji41] . Stants I haven't forgotten about the peddles, they're off my scoob and soon as the Mrs gives in to a show date I'll hand em over [emoji4] Gary your a genuine fella and im glad to help but I'm starting to worry for my rabbit's safety [emoji87] [emoji23] . Only joking bud , I appreciate your appreciation mate [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊