savage bulldogs

There's a sticky thread in the tech section for self checking ecu codes on classics 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bugeye (01 to 52 plate) or blobeye (03 plate onwards) sti would probably be the best starting platform. As the engines and gearboxes are much stronger and give more headroom for project creep . If your sure that you'll keep it relatively standard and won't eventually want over 330hp the a low mileage blobeye wrx is probably the way forward imo . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Gave the old girl a spanking to blow the cobwebs off after not driving it for a week [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just posted it ,pm'd you the tracking info and it should be with you by 1 tomorrow. It only cost £1 extra to send than I thought, so just by me a can of coke if we meet at a show sometime [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Not too sure to be honest as I've only ever been evolved in the running in of 2 turbo engines and we used the method above for both my forged scooby and a mates skyline. You could maybe drop the semi out (ooh er misses ) @ 250 mls then change to 10 40 mineral with a new filter before you start using low boost ? I ended up using 2x millers running in oil and now run millers 10 w 50 nano drive with a Mahle oil filter . Phone tim @ opie oils as we get a club discount and he knows his oil options [emoji6] Keep us updated on how it goes and all the best bud [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sorry I thought you said you had a £13,000 (£13k) budget. A jdm sti with just a remap would run about 330hp If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Spec c would be my choice for outta the box performance and holding its value by keeping it standard . If your gonna "tweek" it then a jdm sti wide track is a great platform to start from with a 13k budget [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Generally most people run in for 1k using mineral oil gradually increasing the max revs from 2.5k rpm in stages of 1k rpm per 100 mls . Refresh the mineral oil and filter at 500 mls ,then start using spurts of low actuated boost (0.5 bar max ) low down in the Rev range for the next 500 mls . This helps to bed the rings and lessen the chance of glazing the bores . If it's been rebuilt with standard internals using standard tolerances most use millers 10 w 40 fully synthetic after the running in period on a classic. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Payment received with thanks sandy [emoji106] I'll pop it in the post tomorrow and forward you the tracking number ,bud . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Here's a few pics of the haywood and Scott slip jointed up pipe for sandy There's a little bit of surface rust . it's got a bolt with the end cut off bunging the newage up pipe sensor hole (not needed on classics and it did the job ). And as I said before it ideally needs re heat wrapping. But the studs are in good nick and it worked fine on my classic [emoji6] Let me know if you still want it and I'll pm you my pay pal address and pop it in the post tomorrow, chap . Cheers Clive If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Strange , Unless your old pump was failing , I wouldn't have thought fitting a new pump would change the fuel pressure /trims . Cos the fuel pressure regulator should keep the pressure the same , unless the old pump couldn't keep up with the engines demand maybe ? . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I was just looking on the haywood and Scott website and they list a newage and classic up pipe at different prices [emoji15] I know the newage up pipes have a sensor in them and classics don't, so I expected them to have a different part number due to the sensor ferrell. As far as I was aware headers and up pipe are the same dimensions on classic and newage ( interchangeable ) but after seeing that on their website I don't want to advise you to buy something that possibly won't fit (as the one you're looking at is the equivalent to a newage impreza ) Maybe you'd be better off buying a up pipe off a foz of the same year to be 100% sure. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'd imagine that the ecu would eventually learn the restriction but it would probably over fuel a bit untill then (hence the remap to be safe ) I think it's just the way the pipe is "sleeved" into the turbo flange rather than split. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

There £150 + pp new from h&s direct , I'll get some pics up tomorrow when I get back to blighty but £80 posted sound ok? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

How much you looking for it? Dunno bud never thought about selling it tbh as I like to have a few spares kicking around, cos my project is constantly changing lol . I'll have a squint to see how much they are new and let you know bud [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Vf34 is a roller bearing turbo so will hit 1 bar 350 (ish) rpm sooner max at 330hp. Tdo5 is journal based so will spool slightly later but hold boost higher in the Rev range , give more max hp and take more abuse before needing a rebuild. Takes yer pic for your needs [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got a spare classic slip jointed h&s one [emoji6] studs are in good condition it just needs re wrapping If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Can't fault flux for service. ... Just pm'd Dan on here and he's got back to me asap to tell me I'm with redstar and got nothing to worry about 😎 Thanks Dan for putting my mind at rest while not being able to check my documents myself ,due to being aboard 👍 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ok so I've either had too many San Miguels or the Spanish wifi has double posted [emoji55] [emoji23]

Chocolate teapot turbos . Com lol . The original mitsi turbos are much better and can be refurbished for much cheaper than a second hand vf 34 . That graph was on the original 94 sti engine too [emoji6]

New stud it is then , cos that looks mighty fubar lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Mine was the 22yr old original top entry turbo of my 94 sti but the cheap chinky ones ain't worth the postage you'd pay lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

This was mine @1.2 bar with these supporting mods . V1 sti cams . Yellow 440's Groupe headers and up pipe. Fully 3" decat turbo back . Rcm fuel pump . Autobahn fmic . Apexi intake . Broke my classic 5 speed 3 days later lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I generally only use tapacrap so can't see that [emoji6] The standard blues should be good for 320hp and the tmic for 360 hp (ish) . So yep limiting factor is the tdo4 @290hp . So either forget the air intake and fmic and just remap to 265 to 290 ,which will give you better driveabilty (boost coming in earlier and stronger @1.3 bar) with better economy . Or chuck on a bigger turbo and injectors for 330hp . The fmic isn't necessarily needed at that level of tune (330hp ) but would give you less heat soak if you tend to do a lot of town driving in the summer months [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Most of what you've written might as well be in Japanese, as I don't know much about mapping. I'd imagine if you normally do town driving with occasional spurts of boost, the ecu would've trimmed fuel accordingly. So giving it beans on the carriage way would maybe cause the ecu to trim fuel under the heavier load in higher gears ? Afaik it's only knock and afr differences that induce "trim" so a change in fuel ,engine load or knock limits might have caused this If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊