savage bulldogs

Looking good mate have to let us know how it sounds. It's definitely quieter but still burbles and after a few pulls I haven't lost any boost (so it flows well ) [emoji41] After going to a local meet this evening a mate of mine is going to buy the same system . So he seems to like it too lol. When I get chance I'll take a vid and chuck it on my build thread [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My last post on piggys "vvt help " thread might be worth looking at, its about a earthing issue on the left bank head which gives a cam sensor fault [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I ran a v3 classic sti tmic @ 330hp but it suffered with heatsoak and you could feel a noticeable drop in power on hot days . I could've gone for the newage sti tmic but I'm aiming for 400hp so I'm running a hdi fmic . The pipework fitted fine and didn't rub anywhere but I did have to bin the standard airbox for a cone filter and cut the back of the front bumper and lower "webs" of the front chassis legs to allow the pipework to fit . Some have managed to retain the airbox with a bit of modification or flipping the core to reroute the fmic pipework. I did consider getting a sport bonnet but decided I just love the scoop too much . Here's a few brands that flow well that can be bought for under £300 second hand. Hdi . Autobahn. Hks . Japspeed . P.s as for the standard recirc valve it is difficult to retain the oe one due to it being mounted directly to the tmic from v5 onwards . But you can buy aftermarket recirc valves and plumb them in relatively easily with a fmic and a bit of silicone hose . Best of luck [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sorry I saw vvt in the title and didn't even read it , as I have no experience with scooby vvt ,cos classics don't have it 😉 But you mentioning that it might be a left bank cam issue has reminded me of a fairly common fault which sometimes affects bugeyes. It's a earthing issue that gives a left bank cam sensor fault which is resolved by attaching a extra earth to either the engine loom or left hand head (can't remember if it was 1 or both you have to earth ). So it might be worth putting a extra temporary earth on that side to see if it resolves the fault ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Good to hear someone knows the seller[emoji106] . Cos I don't know Andy but I do know early phase 1 stuff is difficult to source sometimes ,so thought I'd pop a pic on here for tom [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just spotted this on 1 of the many face book pages and thought it's probably what your after tom [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Does sound like a bit of cog has chipped off and is getting stuck between the other gears causing a "rocking" sensation as you try to pull away . So yeah it sounds like a fubar'd box to me . You could try dropping the box sump plug out and check for debris in the oil[emoji6] Afaik in the worst case scenario you'd need the same as fitting a bug 6 speed . I did this I'n mine with the 6 speed box, linkage cradle and prop (when my brv owned it ) everything else classic is compatible . I've never fitted a later 5 speed into a classic myself so can't say for sure if its a straight swap for the ty52's . I know The ty54 gearbox casings are bigger so you need to check the .... cradle ,linkage ,mounts and prop are definitely the same size as the early classic ty52 boxes [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yep [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do you still need me to look at the bug gaz , Or is it boosting properly now bud ? Cos I'll be in between 3 and 5 this afternoon or you can pop to the s.c meet Tuesday at 7 in Baylham. too meet the s.c mob and I'll have a squint then [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've only ever dealt with v1 92 to v4 98 and they all run the same "inline stud patterns" on the inlets . I think you can buy "inlet manifold phase adapters " to convert the early classic phase 1 &1.5 head stud patterns to take a newage inlet manifold. If the coil pack is in the middle of the inlet on the donor engine it's classed as a "v3/v4 phase 1.5 " set up . I know After 98 the classics run a" phase 2" inlet manifold set up with a different stud pattern but I'm unsure if the newage run the same phase 2 stud patterns as the late classics. Hopefully a bit of a google for .... Phase 1.5 v4 impreza classic newage inlet conversion or phase 1.5 to newage inlet stud pattern adapters . Might give you a answer but it would obviously be easier to use a newage wrx long engine . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I took it out for a "quick" test run which turned into a few slip lane blatts followed by a detour to the two local road tunnels 😆 I found that the cobra cat back seems to make the same level of noise at full chat that it does on idle . Although it's quieter compared to the previous 3" cat back , it's only restricted the boost targets I'm hitting on the avcr by 0.02 bar (so it flows well) The Mrs and kids didn't like it at first when it was idling on the drive but I took my 12yr old daughter out and she said ..... "Actually dad you can hear the spool and wastegate chatter more so I like it .... a lot " With that discription i think the 3 females in my house know more about cars than some of my mates on building sites [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Back i blighty and after a week or so of work the holiday seems a bit of a distant memory. I had decided to buy a cobra track day 3" cat back in the airport on the way there , to cheer me up when I got back [emoji39] I used a ebay company that sells genuine cobra systems at discount prices, due to only having polished "boxes" and not pipework. Somehow I ended up being sent a second hand rear section on Wednesday [emoji53] . They spoke to cobra who made a new rear section Thursday and sent it out next day delivery , the replacement was at my door 745 Saturday morning . So far play to them and their customer service [emoji106] As for the exhaust it still has the lifetime warranty but for about £300 less labour costs too polish the pipework. Took about 2 hrs to fit as, I couldn't be bothered to get the car up on all 4 axle stands . Few pics . Fitment was good and it's still got the scooby "thud" but it doesn't scream at ya on boost [emoji41] The cdf billet fuel rails turned up and look like a quality bit of kit So I just need the custom ally intake pipe fabricated and I'll have everything ready for a map tweek [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice work on the calipers raf [emoji41] Kazarh, i knew it wouldn't be long before you'd be chucking a temporary box in but...... WHY ARE YOU SHOUTING [emoji23] I'm happy with the new cat back it's much quieter on boost [emoji41] Mrs helped me wash, polish and wax the scoob [emoji15] still dunno what she's after though [emoji2] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As long as the 5 speed your buying is definitely the same ratio as the original rear diff, you won't need to disturb your existing rear diff ,shafts and hubs . The classic front shafts will fit the later 5&6 speed boxes up to at least early 04 . You need to use a stub axle conversion kit to use classic shafts on the 6 speeds after that (like I'm running) but that's not necessarily the case with 04 onwards 5 speeds . Gearbox cradle ,linkage and prop are the only basic bits you need to fit a 6 speed into a classic (if the ratios are the same ) . So worst case scenario you'd need the above . Unless anyone else has fitted a bug onwards 5 speed into a classic ? Otherwise You'll have to cross check part numbers/dimensions between classic and bug for .... prop, gearbox cradles/mounts and linkage parts ect to see if they're the same . In theory it should just fit ,the clutch, fly ,starter ,front shafts are definitely all compatible but I know the newage 5 speed has a bigger casing (hence the posible need for the cradle/mounts) cos have never fitted a bug 5 speed box into a classic myself. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

New cobra cat back Looks good and sounds nice when stationery Just waiting for the inlaws to get off the driveway , so I can take it for a test run to see what it sounds like on boost [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Only problem is ...... I don't know whether I should open it now or call the police [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Lol basically I've got no way of checking what fuel pressure I'm currently running, so dont know what pressure to set the new regulator at . To high and it will over fuel to low and it will lean off [emoji6] On a plus note the postie seems to have either dropped off a dead midget or another rear section of exhaust. .... And then there were 2 [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you put "3ltr" rather than "h6" in your Google search you get a few options . 1 being a import car parts pic of a smooth idler pulley. I think there about £25 but give icp a bell and I'm sure luke will know what 1 you need . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hopefully I'll fit the zorst tomorrow but I won't be fitting the billet fuel rails until I've spliced the bigger maf plug onto the loom and had a custom intake fabricated . As my current adjustable fuel pressure regulator hasn't got a gauge, so I've got no idea what to set the pressure at on the fuelab one and will have to get a map tweek straight away after fitting everything 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome. As matt said early 96 is v2 and late 96 is v3 . The classic gc8 mafs have a colour coded sticker on them (green , purple , orange ) so just get one with the same colour sticker on. Here's how to identify the differences between the versions. V2 will have separate coil packs on each plug and a top entry turbo. V3 will have a single coil pack in the centre of the inlet manifold with ht leads to each spark plug and a front entry turbo. As for the maf they can be removed and cleaned by spraying brake or electric contact cleaner on the (fragile) elements. Just insure you don't touch the wire in the centre and make sure it's fully dry before refitting. 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Looks like these were worth the wait .... And the new ( better be brand new this time mo fo ) exhaust system should be here first thing tomorrow morning [emoji2] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I found that in my 20's I drove what I could afford to insure[emoji57] In my 30's I turned into a "sensible" dad and had "practical" motors [emoji15] Late 30's to early 40's I mostly be spending my spare cash building a beast that cost's peanuts to insure [emoji23] No point getting any older ,if you don't get any wiser [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I like the older cars for that reason too , as they're much easier to work on with basic tools and have far less "gadgets" to go wrong [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Been looking for that to post on here but I can't find it on my phone lol . That's the geo set up I went for on my classic as I read (somewhere) that the classic prodrive set up works well but tends to scrub the front tyres a bit . Like ghost said " I don't know if it's any good for newage" but after 1.5k miles of mainly b road driving I haven't spotted any odd tyre wear yet . I'm sure a few newage drivers on here have had a "none oe" set up done , hopefully one will spot this post and point you in the right direction. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It was a old school ford they found it on and the standard security is pretty poor on those but some of them are worth a small fortune so I suppose they're a relatively easy target [emoji53] . Doubt anyone would want to stick one on my old girl but if they did .... The inner arches are so dirt free it would probably slip off . My alarm and own tracker are pretty sharp . And the crowbar I keep for .... errm "breaking things" is never too far away 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊